UKC

I'm looking for some crags around Garelochhead/Loch Lomond/Arrochar for taking some beginner groups. The requirements are that I need to be able to access these routes from the bottom and the top so that I can make a trad anchor (preferable) or use the bolts for protection. Any ideas? Thank you!

In reply to IWhyte:

Glen Croe was the crag of choice back in the day. No idea if it's still used.

In reply to IWhyte:

The Whangie ?

In reply to Dunthemall:

I wouldn’t recommend the whangie: some snappy rock, and relatively difficult to access the top. Fun, but not for a beginner group.

Although it’s a bit out of the OP’s stated area, Neilston is a classic beginner venue. Callander crags has some nice easy bolted routes, though I’m not sure what access to the top is like.

In reply to jonny taylor:

Thank you!

Neilston looks perfect, but you're right, it's an hour out. I was also thinking maybe Auchinstarry Quarry - do you know anything about this?

I've just looked on the Callander crag website and it mentions not to access it from the top - but it was a good shout!

Do you anything about walk on/walk off at Loudoun Hill? Which seems to be in that area too?

In reply to IWhyte:

Starry is used a lot by instructors and easy to get to the top of the routes. The car park area in particular, other sectors it would be tricky to get to the bottom with a group.

In reply to IWhyte:

As Mike says, the car park area at Auchinstarry is easy access top and bottom, with 2 or 3 pretty easy routes well suited for beginners. If possible, bringing rigging rope may help at the top: it’s very sandy with anchors some way back.

I don’t know Loudon Hill I’m afraid.

In reply to jonny taylor:

What’s at top, above the easy routes, these days? Are there stakes? I seem to recall hearing the belay tree had fallen down but that might be rubbish.

In reply to JLS:

Sturdy tree still there as an anchor for Access Route (D), Scream (S 4b), Anarchist (VD) and  Tar (S). 
Solid railing for Mr Men (VS 4b) and Mister, Ye Can Walk Up Roon The Back (S). 

In reply to Mark Bull:

One of my absolute favourite route names. Captures the spirit of the crag perfectly.

In reply to IWhyte:

Loudoun Hill has an easy walk off descent for most routes, but is not that great at sub-VS grades. The best such route is Pulpit Arête (S) but that finishes on top of a pinnacle with an awkward down climb off it.

In reply to IWhyte:

Do you mean Loudoun Hill about 1 hour south of Glasgow. Park at the "Spirit of Scotland" carpark.  You might have to take care with beginners on the steepish ground top & bottom of the climbs. Worth a drive to check out and see the view.

Callender crags: There are lots of short climbs on  Ben A'an but its 1+km walk to the lower one.

Craigmore, north of Glasgow, but its a long time since i've been there. UKC Implies a lot of routes are now overgrown.

In reply to IWhyte:

There's a sport crag somewhere near tighnabruaich that I think was cleaned and developed precisely for this, near some outdoor centre. Sorry I don't have more details! 

In reply to Graeme G:

That's one of mine. Thanks! 😀

In reply to IWhyte:

I suggest you contact the guys at Climbscotland - https://www.climbscotland.net/ - they have loads of experience with running beginner sessions and are always happy to help others with advice.

Stephen

In reply to Dunthemall:

Loudoun hill had a recent wild fire covering the crag area of the hill. Horrible black sludge everywhere on top washing down the crag. It was pretty awful a few weeks back not sure how much the situation may of changed since.

In reply to IWhyte:

I’m pretty sure the answer to your question is either…

The Bunker or

The Padlock

However these are sport crags and don’t have easy access from the top, so you’d need to acquire the tech and skills to safely setup the top ropes ground up.

Both these crags will have midge in the wrong weather conditions, so that will also be a factor.

Auchenstarry or Neilston seem alone way to go just to get access to the top of the crag.

In reply to IWhyte:

I would second Glen Croe, given your location. Remember Middle Crag being easy to access and a decent spread of grades. And a lovely south facing mountain environment.

Loudoun Hill and Ben A'an maybe not the best for a beginner group, given the steep terrain.

Auchinstarry and Neilston understandably popular for such things but a fair drive.

Sport crags - fair enough but logistically more complicated if you have to climb to both rig and retrieve your top rope kit (please don't top rope through the lower offs!). However there is a wee sport crag at Ardvorlich that I remember being able to rig from above. Not masses of parking but if you shared a vehicle might work

In reply to IWhyte:

Not sure why I didn’t think of this earlier…  Scout Crag

This is used by the Lochgoilhead outdoor centres primarily for abseiling but there are beginner friendly climbs too.

In reply to Dr Toph:

Ardvorlich: if it’s the one I am thinking of then yes there’s access at the top, but not beginner grades - and the approach is not particularly beginner-friendly, and tick central at this time of year.

In reply to jonny taylor:

Ardvorlich is not beginner grades and likely huge bracken and the bolts had some chains missing last time I was there (a few years back).

Glencroe can get a breeze so can be midegy free and as others have said great location. Also lots of slabby easy routes some almost climb anywhere. Not sure what the stakes are like as they were rusty a few years back. That’s the only anchors except for the student route crag which has a big boulder. 
 

Auchinstarry car park areas are best as others say. Plenty tree anchors. Also abseil easy down the slab bit.

Craigmore can be midges hell and limited easy routes. More for abseiling.

In reply to IWhyte:when I worked at blairvadach I cleaned up this crag for pry climbing. Not been there for years. May be overgrown. It did have bolts at the top. https://maps.app.goo.gl/EdNm1yvMWyeoKphK8?g_st=ipc

In reply to IWhyte: We used to top rope a lot here. 190 or so routes up to about. 10m high:

Craigmore