/ Time Regained Helsby Second ascent
Yesterday Mark Rankine made the second ascent of Andy Popp's technical masterpiece Time Regained at Helsby, E8 6c Time Regained (E8 6c)- the hardest route in the Cheshire and Merseyside Sandstone guidebook. Andy's other claim to fame is that he is the only person on UKC to have read (and finished!) Proust's A La Recherche Du Temps Perdu - as the route name implies. More details on Friends of Pex Hill facebook page.
Great route and great effort!
Nice one Mark!!
Great climber and nice guy.Even does a route of mine now and again.
For bouldering connoisseurs,Computer Say No at Froggatt may be of interest.
> Andy's other claim to fame is that he is the only person on UKC to have read (and finished!) Proust's A La Recherche Du Temps Perdu
How do you know?!
Great to see the grand old crag receiving some attention
Great effort Mark - what a route and what a crag too!
I remember once leading a route at Helsby with the cams at half height being the only runners. I then belayed my friend who climbed it on my gear. He gave the cams a gentle tug to test them and the rock around them exploded. You can see why a lot of the locals top rope!
> How do you know?!
Because there was once a discussion about Proust on UKC (I know, but it’s true) when I was trying to be clever and Andy’s knowledge of the book(s) proved to be a lot more encyclopaedic than mine. Or I’m a lying twxt and I made it up. Take your pick.
I was not doubting that Andy has read the books, that is evident from his regular contributions to UKB's ongoing books thread. I was querying how you can be sure that none of the other thousands of folks with UKC profiles have.
I can’t be sure can I? It was a joke. Best concentrate on Mark’s achievement.
Just the other hardest route at the crag left now. The cover photo!
If thebigfriendlymoose is plain old Moose on UKB then I'm pretty sure he's read Proust too.
What? Moose from Llanberis?
Yeah there's lots of great classic routes there - Flake Crack being the obvious stand-out and with as much gear as you like.
Glad you like the pic. The gear does not look inspiring. 2 cams in a crumbly break and a number 2 rock. And the landing is poor....and a long way down.
I’m not so sure Pete. I have seen several climbers take leader falls on Helsby and seen the gear fail on several occaisons including one notable first ascent with Mr Popp. That’s one of the great characteristics of the crag; technique, a cool head and sound judgement are a pre requisite for a successful lead. It’s not a crag to go gung ho on!
Maybe we should grid bolt it to make it a popular mid-grade sport crag?
sorry, couldn’t resist..!
There’s a lot in what you say, Mark. All those incidents you refer to seem to have involved cams. I first went there in about 1976 with my first set of hexcentrics - no cams - and did Flake Crack, Wood’s Climb etc. We thought that it was no different to a gritstone crag. Maybe hexcentrics are safer on sandstone than cams - more metal in contact with the rock?
Unless the placement is deep in the heavily oxidised black rock I think the rock will fail. When Pete led Yuppies Arête he was mostly climbing sport routes so I think his judgement on the placements on that route was optimistic to say the least!
great effort and I would love to see it get a second ascent
> Great climber and nice guy.Even does a route of mine now and again.
> For bouldering connoisseurs,Computer Say No at Froggatt may be of interest.
is this reply for real?
Yep, I always thought that Pete Chadwick was a very good climber but a non-bold Bolt-clipper. Then he goes and does a desperately hard trad route with dodgy gear on a historic crag like Helsby. Impressed!
Superb work. It's great to see things like this getting repeated.
Cover shot for guide waiting for a second ascent once your ankles are better!
I think it would be right up your street Franco - the route and the crag. Hope the ankles are healing.
What is that? Looks like a flipped strapadictomy.
edit: Yuppies arete? Looks cool and very bold!
Good story behind the name too!
Whatever happened to the Yuppie?
They took early retirement 5 years ago, are living off their portfolio, ride sportives on their £10K Cervélo, surf and snowboard a bit, gave up climbing in the early 90s.
(I have no idea who the Yuppie in question was, but this answer seems to apply to most of them)
> They took early retirement 5 years ago, are living off their portfolio, ride sportives on their £10K Cervélo, surf and snowboard a bit, gave up climbing in the early 90s.
> (I have no idea who the Yuppie in question was, but this answer seems to apply to most of them)
Er, yuppie stands for ‘young urban professional’. So ‘early retirement’?
The yuppie who the route is named after was a very likeable but slightly arrogant chap who arrived on the Merseyside scene in the 8o’s from pastures south. In the days before mats we used a piece of carpet to clean our feet and he refused to use one of our gangs carpet because it ‘looks like it’s come from a Council house’.
he was quite a good climber and attempted his eponymous arête several times on a top rope.
The legendary council house matting incident
> Er, yuppie stands for ‘young urban professional’. So ‘early retirement’?
Let's say our mythical yuppie was in his mid-20s when trying his eponymous arete in the late 80s. He'd now be in his mid 50s. He made a pile of money as fund manager/student property landlord/mobile phone entrepreneur so easily able to retire in his early 50s.
(Any resemblance to real individuals is purely coincidental)
Belated congratulations to Mark.
Well over due, and terrific news. Flipping hard that one. Well done, Mark!
Wandered past on a training run, looked at the holds, shook head and ran away in disbelief. Top effort and good to see Helsby getting some (elite) traffic!
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