In reply to JDal:
> (In reply to pebbles)
> [...]
> We might get a novice to join in with an experienced pair, it's not much hassle to take someone else up a route, and you soon end up with another experienced club member. If the route's a straightforward thing I don't see what's wrong with them belaying me, so long as I'm confident that they can belay safely - even though they've not been outdoors before. A quick meetup at a wall sorts that out.
Agree, generally. We've introduced loads of newbies to trad climbing on club trips - we can take them out in a three and have someone supervise their belaying to start with, or (since we're quite a long way from any actual rock) do the same thing at a wall before going outside with them. And after that there are generally leaders around (myself included) who are clocking up experience and are happy to have someone come along and second them up loads of stuff at VS and below.
The flipside to this is that it might take a bit more patience on the novice's part than booking onto a Plas Y Brenin course or something would - they might have to wait for a suitable trip rather than eg going on the Gogarth trip because it's the next one on the calendar, they might have to do a couple of indoor sessions before going outside, and they might have to get to know people a bit before they can count on always finding someone to climb with, but that's kind of a case of beggars not being choosers...