UKC

Evening all. 

The wife and I are off on a road trip in the van, planning to spend time in Dorset, Devon and Cornwall. 

I've read there is some great sport climbing in Dorset  so grabbed a copy of the Rockfax.

Having only climbed on indoor walls, we're keen to try The Quarry, in Hedbury , as it seems to offer a good selection of easier climbs,including a grade 1, hopefully somewhere not too intimidating to pop our outdoor cherries. 

Looking at the Rockfax, it shows the quarry - Right, as being approx 16m at most. The routes we are interested in (very ordinary, another contribution, strange devices and sea view) all seem to be significantly shorter than the climbs that top out at 16m. 

Just wondering if anyone has climbed the above routes on a 30m rope? I've got one which we use on our local wall, and it'd be great if we'd be able to climb the grade 1-4 routes without having to get a longer line. 

Thanks is advance!

Geoff 

I'm pretty certain you will be ok with a 30, tie a knot though! The first couple of metres of those routes are easy so you won't be stuck.

Or.... When you come you Swanage come and borrow a  longer rope from me, I've got lots!

The veranda at battleship, Portland would be another good option. Fairly easy walk in, quite a few easy routes and all fairly short

Would echo Scott's tip about getting help from the locals. If it's anywhere around Swanage, he's totally the man - knows the place backwards. If coming to Portland, if I'm there, I can either lend you my rope or, if I've got some spare time, show you around (better). The first few routes in the Bower, near the Cuttings (a couple of 2s, a 3 and a 4) would get you going. The place feels very friendly/not intimidating. (Don't do any of the routes on the left hand side of the Cuttings - polished horrors.) The Veranda is pleasant. (Maybe wear helmets, as it can be a bit loose.) And there are other suitable venues.

Hope you have a good trip and maybe see you.

Mick

Hi Geoff, 

     Great you're taking the step to climbing outside. While the offer is there  meet with the guys above. Always good for a pair of experienced eyes, (re threading, etc) and local knowledge. It will make your first trip a lot more relaxing.

Enjoy, 

Gwain  

Strange Devices is incorrectly graded in the Rockfax guide, the old Climbers' Club guide has it down as an E2 if I remember correctly and the only bolts are for the routes either side.

Scott, 

Thanks for the reply! I've managed to find some photos and Youtube videos of folk climbing the above routes, and I can see what you mean about the first two meters being easy.

We'll definitely tie a knot, I'm a fan of making safety a habit, so I've drilled it into us that we always tie a knot, even when top roping, just so it becomes second nature.

Not gunna lie, blown away by the generosity by the offer to lend us equipment. We're planning to be in the area 6th - 20th April with a white dog that most mistake for a sheep, hopefully we'll bump into each other!

Thanks again for the advice,

Geoff

Thanks dude!

At work currently, and left the Rockfax at home, will look this up tonight!

Cheers,

Geoff

Man, you guys are legends. Again, blown away by the generosity shown in here. As mentioned above we'll be the couple with the dog that looks like a sheep. It'd be great if we crossed paths whilst we're in your neck of the woods!

Appreciate the tip for The Cuttings, it's also on the list, will absolutely avoid the left hand side, I'd seen a few comments on the UKC logbook saying it was polished and wasn't sure how bad it'd be, your description, "horrors" has convinced me to stay well clear!

Thanks,

Geoff

Hi mate, thanks for the reply! Super excited to climb in the fresh air!

We've been practising lead climbing indoors, and have also been simulating threading the lower off on the stainless screw gates at the top of the wall, but i'll absolutely do my best to absorb any knowledge or critique offered by the local and experienced guys who might be there!

Thanks again!

Geoff

Jesus, that does not sound fun, thanks for the tip, will avoid!!!

Cheers,

Geoff

Hey, no problem. I'll be back around 10th or 11th, so there's some overlap. Re threading staples, in Dungecroft Quarry (just a couple of minutes from Cheyne Weares car parking), opposite a trench in the Heroes of Swanage area, there's a mini-route (just a few metres high), which is a good place to practise. Occasionally (e.g. at the Bower/Veranda) you'll come across 'pig's tails' which are different to staples. Essential that the rope is securely around both of them (and always through both staples).

The transition from inside to outside can be challenging. If someone's around who knows their stuff, it demystifies it. And then you, in turn, can pass it on to others...

It's a great walk to Hedbury. That whole coastline is superb.

Mick

Nice one, we'll definitely head there for a practice. As it stands, the plan will be for me to lead a route, set up a top rope anchor for the wife, she'll then climb it once or twice on top rope, and then i'll go back up and clean. She can lead climb, and she knows how to thread the lower off, but she's not overly confident in doing so, i'm hoping doing things in the way detailed above will make the experience less overwhelming for her, and hopefully more enjoyable (meaning we get to go climbing more ).

I've just had a read up on "pig tails", thanks for the heads up, they look like a pretty elegant solution! Forewarned is forearmed!

Thanks again,

Geoff

At the risk of sounding totally boring (but this is important!) it's a very good idea indeed when top-roping to have the rope clipped into the last quickdraw before the anchors. (Often this will entail unclipping it from one side of the rope as you arrive at the quickdraw and clipping it into the other side - easier to do than explain!)

When you're leading and you lower, you're clipped into the anchors and every single bolt. When you're top-roping, you can end up just being clipped into the anchors. And if, heaven forbid, something went wrong when threading the anchors... 

As long as you're always attached safely to the rope, you've got the rope through that last quickdraw and you're being alertly belayed, you're protected.

This is a bit like tying your shoelaces - easier to show than explain! But I mention it because you will see lots and lots of people top-roping/threading the anchors and being exposed to a (potentially fatal) risk which is 100% avoidable and only takes seconds to do. Worth doing in my book!

Mick

P.S. Don't mean to put you off. With sport climbing there are only a few safety things to get right - but they must be got right.

Mick, not boring at all, and certainly not putting us off!

What you write makes perfect sense, and you are right, for the minimal effort it takes, it's certainly worth doing for some additional redundancy. A very valid and useful consideration, thank you! Will absolutely implement it!

What a great community to be a part of!

Cheers!

Geoff

Just looked it up, "Dad gets another monkey bite" ? Looks perfect, we'll probably make this out first stop 👌