This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Before I go any further I'll acknowledge that sport climbing is probably not the preferred mode of climbing for the majority on the forum!
A few mates & I are planning on making a trip to Romania in June to do some multi-pitch sport climbing (6-7 pitches all 5+ to 6a) and were wondering if anyone has any advice as to the best way to prepare for this trip. We all climb 6a/b+ sport but have only ever done single pitch climbs. In this respect it’s a fairly ambitious plan (I think) as multi-pitch climbing will require a whole host of new techniques & more endurance.
We’re hoping to build out a plan that covers acquiring techniques, endurance, etc and was wondering if anyone has advice as to the best way to go about this. We’re not averse to paying for professional instruction if that is the best way to go.
And it goes without saying that if the time comes and we haven’t acquired the requisite skill base then the whole thing will be called off.
Thanks in advance for the help!
A few mates & I are planning on making a trip to Romania in June to do some multi-pitch sport climbing (6-7 pitches all 5+ to 6a) and were wondering if anyone has any advice as to the best way to prepare for this trip. We all climb 6a/b+ sport but have only ever done single pitch climbs. In this respect it’s a fairly ambitious plan (I think) as multi-pitch climbing will require a whole host of new techniques & more endurance.
We’re hoping to build out a plan that covers acquiring techniques, endurance, etc and was wondering if anyone has advice as to the best way to go about this. We’re not averse to paying for professional instruction if that is the best way to go.
And it goes without saying that if the time comes and we haven’t acquired the requisite skill base then the whole thing will be called off.
Thanks in advance for the help!
In reply to konanm:
Lead a pitch, when you get to the top, don't lower off. Make sure that you are tied in to both bolts (there should always be more than one bolt at a belay station).
Bring your mate up, taking care with where you put your rope - can be in a pile if you are on a ledge, but don't just let it drop back down the route, as it can get snagged.
Let your mate carry on up, leading the next pitch.
Repeat.
Make sure that you know how you will get back down before you set off.
You may want to take water/food/ a head torch/ shoes/suncream/a windproof up with you if you plan to take all day. Whoever is seconding can carry a small rucksac, if you need to.
Lead a pitch, when you get to the top, don't lower off. Make sure that you are tied in to both bolts (there should always be more than one bolt at a belay station).
Bring your mate up, taking care with where you put your rope - can be in a pile if you are on a ledge, but don't just let it drop back down the route, as it can get snagged.
Let your mate carry on up, leading the next pitch.
Repeat.
Make sure that you know how you will get back down before you set off.
You may want to take water/food/ a head torch/ shoes/suncream/a windproof up with you if you plan to take all day. Whoever is seconding can carry a small rucksac, if you need to.
In reply to konanm:
Are you serious?
What new skills exactly do you think you need; other than to grow a pair
Lead 1st pitch, belay, lead 2nd pitch, belay etc. At the top, unless there's actually a path off, abseil back down the route. Make sure your ropes are long enough for the abs ie. If 50m pitches then you need either a 100m rope or, more commonly, two 50's or 60's.
Simples
Are you serious?
What new skills exactly do you think you need; other than to grow a pair
Lead 1st pitch, belay, lead 2nd pitch, belay etc. At the top, unless there's actually a path off, abseil back down the route. Make sure your ropes are long enough for the abs ie. If 50m pitches then you need either a 100m rope or, more commonly, two 50's or 60's.
Simples
In reply to konanm:
You are over-thinking it.
yes but nothing you can't learn from a book, in an afternoon. Make sure you know how to do a multi stage abseil.
not really. If you can climb 6-7 pitches in an evening at the wall you can climb a 6-7 pitch multipitch.
Good luck and have fun.
You are over-thinking it.
> multi-pitch climbing will require a whole host of new techniques
yes but nothing you can't learn from a book, in an afternoon. Make sure you know how to do a multi stage abseil.
> & more endurance.
not really. If you can climb 6-7 pitches in an evening at the wall you can climb a 6-7 pitch multipitch.
Good luck and have fun.
In reply to konanm:
Just go, you'll have a great time.
Top tip- If abseiling off don't drop the rope, that's just embarrassing!
Just go, you'll have a great time.
Top tip- If abseiling off don't drop the rope, that's just embarrassing!
In reply to JonC:
Thats very uncharacteristic of your posts. I know experienced trad climbers who get phased sometimes by long climbs with mulit-pitch abs. Practice techniques and work hard to focus when tired and nervous would be my advice.
Thats very uncharacteristic of your posts. I know experienced trad climbers who get phased sometimes by long climbs with mulit-pitch abs. Practice techniques and work hard to focus when tired and nervous would be my advice.
It's not as daunting as it may seem. Other than not dropping you rope,(or getting it horribly tangled on a stance), the main difference is it just requires a bit more planning.
Just make sure you plan ahead at stances to make changeovers slick and safe: Just think where will my second sit/stand/dangle/rock back-and-forth sobbing "I don't like it up here" while you swap gear/draws and put on waterproofs and or sun cream. You also need to think about which way they’ll need to set off on the next pitch/ you’ll need to belay them).
As said earlier on the thread make sure you've got a bag with everything you'll need to climb and get back down again.
I terms of safety: Try and minimise (or preferably remove) the potential for any factor 2 falls en route.... e.g. don't go above your anchors (especially while on a sling/cowstail). Ensure the leader clips into one of the belay anchors (where possible) before starting the next pitch.
If you don't know how to already, some other useful skills, which you can practice on single pitch routes before you go are:
-Tying the various types of prussiks (and when/how to use them, eg abseiling or ascending if stuck)
-Abseiling and belaying using a munter hitch (aka italian hitch). This is handy if one of you drops a belay plate.
-Abseiling past a knot (there's a good video on UKC for this one)
-Securing a belay plate(there's a good video on UKC for this one showing good practice/locking off under load, although there are simpler alternatives for some situations).
-An assisted hoist (looking at your plans/current grades, just probably won't need this, but it's useful to know if your second is injured/struggling/plain lazy, and can't do part of a pitch.... again there’s a good video on UKC for this one).
Hope this helps
Just make sure you plan ahead at stances to make changeovers slick and safe: Just think where will my second sit/stand/dangle/rock back-and-forth sobbing "I don't like it up here" while you swap gear/draws and put on waterproofs and or sun cream. You also need to think about which way they’ll need to set off on the next pitch/ you’ll need to belay them).
As said earlier on the thread make sure you've got a bag with everything you'll need to climb and get back down again.
I terms of safety: Try and minimise (or preferably remove) the potential for any factor 2 falls en route.... e.g. don't go above your anchors (especially while on a sling/cowstail). Ensure the leader clips into one of the belay anchors (where possible) before starting the next pitch.
If you don't know how to already, some other useful skills, which you can practice on single pitch routes before you go are:
-Tying the various types of prussiks (and when/how to use them, eg abseiling or ascending if stuck)
-Abseiling and belaying using a munter hitch (aka italian hitch). This is handy if one of you drops a belay plate.
-Abseiling past a knot (there's a good video on UKC for this one)
-Securing a belay plate(there's a good video on UKC for this one showing good practice/locking off under load, although there are simpler alternatives for some situations).
-An assisted hoist (looking at your plans/current grades, just probably won't need this, but it's useful to know if your second is injured/struggling/plain lazy, and can't do part of a pitch.... again there’s a good video on UKC for this one).
Hope this helps
In reply to Offwidth:
Ok, I was posting on the move and so was a bit quick but I did actually try to make some meaningful comment.
Ok, I was posting on the move and so was a bit quick but I did actually try to make some meaningful comment.
In reply to konanm:
Assuming you have a reasonable amount of real rock experience at the grades mentioned and the Romanian grades are reasonably consistent with the rest of Europe (these are big assumptions) you should be able to do the climbing though you'll have to keep moving. An hour a pitch might be a reasonable starting estimate for the time required.
So what do you need to learn?
Belaying: If you have any trad experience then the process is much the same but you have bolts. If you don't then at the very least I'd suggest you get a book then head out and practice climbing then belaying from the top of some sport routes.
Retreat: Learning to ab safely. Again... reading is where I'd start. Your main concerns are rigging it safely, protecting your descent against mishaps, staying on line and in contact with the rock, retrieving the rope. Reading and practice. A bit of disposable kit (maillons or old krabs) can be a big help in retreating efficiently.
Route-finding and cheating: You'll get stuck, at some point we all do. Have some cheating tricks up your sleeve, dogging past a stopper move can save you from a lengthy descent.
Staying safe: Are the bolts good? Is the rock sound? What's the weather doing? What do you do in an emergency in Romania? Do you have enough daylight? How can you improvise if you drop kit? etc etc... all need some thought.
I'd invest in a good climbing text, read it then get out and practice the techniques you'll be using, most if not all can be approximated on a single pitch sport crag.
jk
Assuming you have a reasonable amount of real rock experience at the grades mentioned and the Romanian grades are reasonably consistent with the rest of Europe (these are big assumptions) you should be able to do the climbing though you'll have to keep moving. An hour a pitch might be a reasonable starting estimate for the time required.
So what do you need to learn?
Belaying: If you have any trad experience then the process is much the same but you have bolts. If you don't then at the very least I'd suggest you get a book then head out and practice climbing then belaying from the top of some sport routes.
Retreat: Learning to ab safely. Again... reading is where I'd start. Your main concerns are rigging it safely, protecting your descent against mishaps, staying on line and in contact with the rock, retrieving the rope. Reading and practice. A bit of disposable kit (maillons or old krabs) can be a big help in retreating efficiently.
Route-finding and cheating: You'll get stuck, at some point we all do. Have some cheating tricks up your sleeve, dogging past a stopper move can save you from a lengthy descent.
Staying safe: Are the bolts good? Is the rock sound? What's the weather doing? What do you do in an emergency in Romania? Do you have enough daylight? How can you improvise if you drop kit? etc etc... all need some thought.
I'd invest in a good climbing text, read it then get out and practice the techniques you'll be using, most if not all can be approximated on a single pitch sport crag.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Have a look at the 'Rock Climbing' text for the MLTUK Awards (SPA, MIA) etc. It's by Libby Peter, and you can get hold of it through the MLTUK website or from a good climbing shop. This'll teach you all you need to know; plus it's small enough to carry with you if you feel you need to. Great book!
> (In reply to konanm)
>
>
> I'd invest in a good climbing text, read it then get out and practice the techniques you'll be using, most if not all can be approximated on a single pitch sport crag.
>
> jk
>
> jk
Have a look at the 'Rock Climbing' text for the MLTUK Awards (SPA, MIA) etc. It's by Libby Peter, and you can get hold of it through the MLTUK website or from a good climbing shop. This'll teach you all you need to know; plus it's small enough to carry with you if you feel you need to. Great book!
In reply to konanm:
Apologies for the tone of my earlier post. I thnk what surprised me was how a bunch of 6a/b+ sport climbers had got that far (assuming you mean that you can lead those grades on real rock) without picking up a bit of info on abseiling etc. Because, to be honest, that's your only issue here.
Climbing a long sports route may feel more committing, and I suppose it is, but other than having the desire to keep on pushing when the going gets tough (and it may if you've picked a route with a lot of pitches at your limit) it isn't difficult in terms of skills. You very rarely get stopped completely on a sports route (unless you are really pushing the boat out) and can normally frig your way up it if needs be or lower back down to the last stance. The obvious thing is to pick a relatively easy route for your 1st multi-pitch route so that there's little doubt you can climb it and you can focus on the rest.
Just about the only thing you will really need be sure about is your ability to abseil back down the route; either to descend or to escape. I suppose abseiling off long routes is an acquired art as there is more to go wrong and it can be worrying (particularly if you aren't sure where each abseil station is). On a sports route you will often abseil straight back down the line, re-forming your abseil station at each belay. Each belay should have something like a couple of ring bolts, or a big door knocker, or a couple of bolts joined with a maillon. You will either thread the rounded ring bolts directly or use the maillon. As you go up you need to be making a mental note of where the belays are so that you have a better chance of spotting them as you come down the route without over shooting. If the abseil descent is off to one side (not uncommon) the topo will normally show it and you may also want to see if you can spot the ab stations as you go up (or watch others coming down it!).
If you haven't abseiled before and learnt how to tie an abseil knot (if you will be climbing with two ropes rather than one very long rope which you can just abseil off the middle of), you need to learn. You will also need to learn how to use a prussik to provide a safety back-up. Safety is paramount and ideally you should work as a team, becoming more efficient and competent each time. One technique is to set up the 1st abseil, all get onto it in a 'stack' (one person above the other), and then the lead person abs down to the next stance (and makes himself safe at it with say a cows tail attached to the bolts there before takiing himself off the rope) shouts up that he's off the rope and is followed by the next. That way you've all checked that you are properly on the rope before you set off. The 1st one down each time will often need to sort the ropes as he goes (one reason why a back up prussik is a very good idea) and has to be careful not to overshoot the belay - it's a real pain trying to get back up if you suddenly realise it was 20ft higher up!
There are also things like tieing stopper knots in the end of the ropes to stop yourself abseiling off the ends into free air! It does happen, unfortunately. One trick I learnt early on was for the 1st one down at each stance to undo the stopper knots on the end of the ropes and thread one end of the rope through the belay bolts in preparation to then pull the ropes. Unless you are abseiling off one long rope, you need to remember which of the two joined ropes you are going to pull (hence having different coloured ropes helps) - this will be the one dangling on the side with the joining knot (so you aren't trying to pull the joining knot through the maillon or ring bolts at the top). Then as one of you pulls the rope to retrieve them, the other pulls the end of the rope through the bolts near you at your new stance. When they come free, you are most of the way to being set up for your next abseil. It also ensures you don't drop the ropes!
Steeper abseils tend to be easier in terms of rope management (even though it seems scarier) as the ropes tend to hang free and tangle less. However, it does tend to be less forgiving in some other respects. Slabs will tend to grab your ropes and tangle them up, as will bushes/trees on the route. However, it's probably a little less worrying for your 1st abseils if you can do it on slabs.
Don't ever forget to untie the knot on your end of the rope when you pull the abseil ropes though. Leave one in the end and it will jam at the top and leave you in a right pickle. Of course, ropes are perverse things and can tangle anyway and jam an abseil. To illustrate Offwidth's point about me being dismissive, one very memorable experience was having an abseil rope jam high up on a 16 pitch route in the alps, when the heavens opened and I had no choice but to re-climb the entire pitch (6a granite slabs in the pouring rain...) on the end of the free rope. We then had to complete the 16 abseils, each of almost 50m, with sodden ropes and lightening starting to flicker around us. Keeping your cool in such situations is important. One f*ck up and your parents might get an unpleasant phone call. So, maybe also check the weather forecast and conditions before setting off on a long route!
It's all a lot easier than it sounds in reality. As I said, start on routes which you know you can get up so you can focus on a) getting up ok, and b) spotting how you will descend the 1st time. Don't be too ambitious and you will learn from experience.
Apologies for the tone of my earlier post. I thnk what surprised me was how a bunch of 6a/b+ sport climbers had got that far (assuming you mean that you can lead those grades on real rock) without picking up a bit of info on abseiling etc. Because, to be honest, that's your only issue here.
Climbing a long sports route may feel more committing, and I suppose it is, but other than having the desire to keep on pushing when the going gets tough (and it may if you've picked a route with a lot of pitches at your limit) it isn't difficult in terms of skills. You very rarely get stopped completely on a sports route (unless you are really pushing the boat out) and can normally frig your way up it if needs be or lower back down to the last stance. The obvious thing is to pick a relatively easy route for your 1st multi-pitch route so that there's little doubt you can climb it and you can focus on the rest.
Just about the only thing you will really need be sure about is your ability to abseil back down the route; either to descend or to escape. I suppose abseiling off long routes is an acquired art as there is more to go wrong and it can be worrying (particularly if you aren't sure where each abseil station is). On a sports route you will often abseil straight back down the line, re-forming your abseil station at each belay. Each belay should have something like a couple of ring bolts, or a big door knocker, or a couple of bolts joined with a maillon. You will either thread the rounded ring bolts directly or use the maillon. As you go up you need to be making a mental note of where the belays are so that you have a better chance of spotting them as you come down the route without over shooting. If the abseil descent is off to one side (not uncommon) the topo will normally show it and you may also want to see if you can spot the ab stations as you go up (or watch others coming down it!).
If you haven't abseiled before and learnt how to tie an abseil knot (if you will be climbing with two ropes rather than one very long rope which you can just abseil off the middle of), you need to learn. You will also need to learn how to use a prussik to provide a safety back-up. Safety is paramount and ideally you should work as a team, becoming more efficient and competent each time. One technique is to set up the 1st abseil, all get onto it in a 'stack' (one person above the other), and then the lead person abs down to the next stance (and makes himself safe at it with say a cows tail attached to the bolts there before takiing himself off the rope) shouts up that he's off the rope and is followed by the next. That way you've all checked that you are properly on the rope before you set off. The 1st one down each time will often need to sort the ropes as he goes (one reason why a back up prussik is a very good idea) and has to be careful not to overshoot the belay - it's a real pain trying to get back up if you suddenly realise it was 20ft higher up!
There are also things like tieing stopper knots in the end of the ropes to stop yourself abseiling off the ends into free air! It does happen, unfortunately. One trick I learnt early on was for the 1st one down at each stance to undo the stopper knots on the end of the ropes and thread one end of the rope through the belay bolts in preparation to then pull the ropes. Unless you are abseiling off one long rope, you need to remember which of the two joined ropes you are going to pull (hence having different coloured ropes helps) - this will be the one dangling on the side with the joining knot (so you aren't trying to pull the joining knot through the maillon or ring bolts at the top). Then as one of you pulls the rope to retrieve them, the other pulls the end of the rope through the bolts near you at your new stance. When they come free, you are most of the way to being set up for your next abseil. It also ensures you don't drop the ropes!
Steeper abseils tend to be easier in terms of rope management (even though it seems scarier) as the ropes tend to hang free and tangle less. However, it does tend to be less forgiving in some other respects. Slabs will tend to grab your ropes and tangle them up, as will bushes/trees on the route. However, it's probably a little less worrying for your 1st abseils if you can do it on slabs.
Don't ever forget to untie the knot on your end of the rope when you pull the abseil ropes though. Leave one in the end and it will jam at the top and leave you in a right pickle. Of course, ropes are perverse things and can tangle anyway and jam an abseil. To illustrate Offwidth's point about me being dismissive, one very memorable experience was having an abseil rope jam high up on a 16 pitch route in the alps, when the heavens opened and I had no choice but to re-climb the entire pitch (6a granite slabs in the pouring rain...) on the end of the free rope. We then had to complete the 16 abseils, each of almost 50m, with sodden ropes and lightening starting to flicker around us. Keeping your cool in such situations is important. One f*ck up and your parents might get an unpleasant phone call. So, maybe also check the weather forecast and conditions before setting off on a long route!
It's all a lot easier than it sounds in reality. As I said, start on routes which you know you can get up so you can focus on a) getting up ok, and b) spotting how you will descend the 1st time. Don't be too ambitious and you will learn from experience.
That could be my longest (most rambling) post ever and I blame Offwidth!
Thanks all for your responses.
@jonc - rambling but very useful post!
Having never had cause to abseil in the past (not counting once at a fair when I was 10) it sounds like that it is pretty important for my climbing partner and I to be completely comfortable with multi pitch abseils and so we're looking to get out on rock and get practicing asap.
Others - very useful as well. Note taken re a book - I actually received Libby Peter's book in the post yesterday and will start to go through it this weekend.
We'll be spending a week prior to the big wall climbing shorter single pitch routes with a couple of 2 pitch routes thrown in. Hopefully this will get us acclamitised to the grade standards, rock, etc.
@jonc - rambling but very useful post!
Having never had cause to abseil in the past (not counting once at a fair when I was 10) it sounds like that it is pretty important for my climbing partner and I to be completely comfortable with multi pitch abseils and so we're looking to get out on rock and get practicing asap.
Others - very useful as well. Note taken re a book - I actually received Libby Peter's book in the post yesterday and will start to go through it this weekend.
We'll be spending a week prior to the big wall climbing shorter single pitch routes with a couple of 2 pitch routes thrown in. Hopefully this will get us acclamitised to the grade standards, rock, etc.
In reply to JonC:
Don't worry, Jon. I thought the same thing. Sigh. Back in the day, there WAS no multipitch - it was all just climbing and we didn't even notice that it went up a whole mountain. Then came the first 'I'm doing my first multipitch', but at least they were trad, and there were the direction of the belay issues to consider.... Whatever will be next? 'Which trousers should I wear to climb'? Hmmmm to late - we are already there!
Now do you feel less alone, Jon?
Don't worry, Jon. I thought the same thing. Sigh. Back in the day, there WAS no multipitch - it was all just climbing and we didn't even notice that it went up a whole mountain. Then came the first 'I'm doing my first multipitch', but at least they were trad, and there were the direction of the belay issues to consider.... Whatever will be next? 'Which trousers should I wear to climb'? Hmmmm to late - we are already there!
Now do you feel less alone, Jon?
In reply to JonC:
Cheers JonC - useful info there.
Cheers JonC - useful info there.
In reply to mmmhumous:
cheers mmmhumous & jkarran - very useful information
cheers mmmhumous & jkarran - very useful information
In reply to konanm:
Have a look at the guidebook for the area that you are going to, if there is one. In some places, it is not the norm to ab down, but people walk down. In other places, abbing is normal. You need to check how you will get down before you set off.
My mate Dave once topped out on a mountain in Spain, and followed the descent route down, which was handily marked out with splodges of white paint - good news as it was dusk and getting darker. After a while, however, he realized that actually, they were big splodges of lichen!
You can always ask other climbers for tips about decending, once you are there...
Have a look at the guidebook for the area that you are going to, if there is one. In some places, it is not the norm to ab down, but people walk down. In other places, abbing is normal. You need to check how you will get down before you set off.
My mate Dave once topped out on a mountain in Spain, and followed the descent route down, which was handily marked out with splodges of white paint - good news as it was dusk and getting darker. After a while, however, he realized that actually, they were big splodges of lichen!
You can always ask other climbers for tips about decending, once you are there...
In reply to konanm: Just did my first multi pitch sport yesterday! My tips-
On a hanging belay get comfy, else you won't be able to feel your feet when you start to climb again.
Try to get your rope management as good as you can, preferably not coiled over your feet.
Be completely and utterly paranoid about abseiling. I made one tiny mistake, not at the cost of safety but it made the walk off half an hour later so back in the dark. Didn't lap enough coils before lobbing it off and ended up hitting the knot 5m above the next anchor! No bolts nearby either. Right faff.
I anchored using a sling on the centre maillon and a clove hitch onto one bolt with the rope. Second did the same but clove hitching the other bolt. Worked well, pretty rapid to set up and equalise.
On a hanging belay get comfy, else you won't be able to feel your feet when you start to climb again.
Try to get your rope management as good as you can, preferably not coiled over your feet.
Be completely and utterly paranoid about abseiling. I made one tiny mistake, not at the cost of safety but it made the walk off half an hour later so back in the dark. Didn't lap enough coils before lobbing it off and ended up hitting the knot 5m above the next anchor! No bolts nearby either. Right faff.
I anchored using a sling on the centre maillon and a clove hitch onto one bolt with the rope. Second did the same but clove hitching the other bolt. Worked well, pretty rapid to set up and equalise.
In reply to konanm: Just did my first multi pitch sport yesterday! My tips-
On a hanging belay get comfy, else you won't be able to feel your feet when you start to climb again.
Try to get your rope management as good as you can, preferably not coiled over your feet.
Be completely and utterly paranoid about abseiling. I made one tiny mistake, not at the cost of safety but it made the walk off half an hour later so back in the dark. Didn't lap enough coils before lobbing it off and ended up hitting the knot 5m above the next anchor! No bolts nearby either. Right faff.
I anchored using a sling on the centre maillon and a clove hitch onto one bolt with the rope. Second did the same but clove hitching the other bolt. Worked well, pretty rapid to set up and equalise.
On a hanging belay get comfy, else you won't be able to feel your feet when you start to climb again.
Try to get your rope management as good as you can, preferably not coiled over your feet.
Be completely and utterly paranoid about abseiling. I made one tiny mistake, not at the cost of safety but it made the walk off half an hour later so back in the dark. Didn't lap enough coils before lobbing it off and ended up hitting the knot 5m above the next anchor! No bolts nearby either. Right faff.
I anchored using a sling on the centre maillon and a clove hitch onto one bolt with the rope. Second did the same but clove hitching the other bolt. Worked well, pretty rapid to set up and equalise.
In reply to JonC:
Rambling, but very useful! As i was reading your post i kept coming up with questions, which you then dutifully answered for me!
(i'm looking to start multi pitch this year too)
Rambling, but very useful! As i was reading your post i kept coming up with questions, which you then dutifully answered for me!
(i'm looking to start multi pitch this year too)
In reply to snaresman and the OP:
Glad it was of use. There's not a lot you can do to prepare yourself for abbing down into the unknown, with ab stations hidden beneath overlaps etc, other than understanding the techniques. As jkarran said, you can learn much of this from reading, then a few practice abs at your local crag, then put it all into use on the real deal.
The key thing with multi-pitch abs, especially when you're new to it, is to take your time and think it through.
Glad it was of use. There's not a lot you can do to prepare yourself for abbing down into the unknown, with ab stations hidden beneath overlaps etc, other than understanding the techniques. As jkarran said, you can learn much of this from reading, then a few practice abs at your local crag, then put it all into use on the real deal.
The key thing with multi-pitch abs, especially when you're new to it, is to take your time and think it through.
In reply to konanm:
Apologies if some else has mentioned it and I’m sure it’ll be in your book…
Communication can be a problem once the leader gets out of sight particularly if it’s windy. It can save a lot of heartache if the team has worked out before hand a few of coded sharp tugs on the rope.
Leader: 3 sharp tugs in quick succession - "I am safe."
Leader: 6 sharp tugs in quick succession - "Climb when ready."
Second: 2 sharp tugs in quick succession - "Climbing."
Apologies if some else has mentioned it and I’m sure it’ll be in your book…
Communication can be a problem once the leader gets out of sight particularly if it’s windy. It can save a lot of heartache if the team has worked out before hand a few of coded sharp tugs on the rope.
Leader: 3 sharp tugs in quick succession - "I am safe."
Leader: 6 sharp tugs in quick succession - "Climb when ready."
Second: 2 sharp tugs in quick succession - "Climbing."
In reply to tlm:
Yup.
I don't have any real problem with how climbing has developed and I think it's great so many people can get into it via the climbing wall. The only problem is that it creates some unecessary mental hurdles to overcome and by progressing from wall to single pitch sports climbing, you do miss out learning the rope management and multi-pitch skills that you learn on trad almost from the off. My 1st climb ever was a multi-pitch V Diff on a very cold and damp February in N Wales. On my 3rd route I took over the sharp end and started to lead and was completely hooked. I know that many people had much more extreme introductions than that. However, I don't think that's the done thing nowadays, is it? Not that I'm exactly ancient but it's the explosion in the number and quality of climbing walls.
> Now do you feel less alone, Jon?
Yup.
I don't have any real problem with how climbing has developed and I think it's great so many people can get into it via the climbing wall. The only problem is that it creates some unecessary mental hurdles to overcome and by progressing from wall to single pitch sports climbing, you do miss out learning the rope management and multi-pitch skills that you learn on trad almost from the off. My 1st climb ever was a multi-pitch V Diff on a very cold and damp February in N Wales. On my 3rd route I took over the sharp end and started to lead and was completely hooked. I know that many people had much more extreme introductions than that. However, I don't think that's the done thing nowadays, is it? Not that I'm exactly ancient but it's the explosion in the number and quality of climbing walls.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...