UKC

hi there
i was told you can climb pillar rock by the slab & notch route with out ropes? is this true or not?
thanks jase.

In reply to jase53: Yes, but it's got a relatively high gibber factor and you'd be well advised to take a rope (25m min to protect the route up - I take it you'll have a partner - and for the ab off), harness/sling, some tat (for the ab off), lid, belay device or HMS, and a decent guide book.

I have seen it freeclimbed just a couple of weeks ago by two older chaps who looked like they were dressed for a spot of gardening - no kit whatsoever. Several of us watched, expecting a gruesome fall and MRT callout, from the path up to Pillar and then, once they got past the notch, from Robinsons Cairn. Was expecting to see them in the papers as casualties the next day but guess they made it, however I would not advise copying their foolhardiness unless you are on best mates terms with gravity!

In reply to jase53:
Is it not a Moderate? If so, I would expect it gets climbed without the assistance of a rope fairly regularly. Whether or not that means you should do so is a question only you can answer!

In reply to jase53:

Slab and Notch although graded Moderate is a fairly serious undertaking. The normal descent is by abseil unless you downclimb the route. It is exposed and high on one of the most remote crags in the Lakes. Some of the rock is polished and is very slippery in the wet. Yes it can be climbed without a rope but you would have to decide for yourself whether it is a good idea, many people would say not, myself included.

In reply to jase53:

You can climb anything without ropes if you are confident/foolhardy enough.

In reply to jase53: what about the old west route?

In reply to summitjunkie:


Call the Cops!

Old men scramble up Pillar without wearing the regulation arc-hagloff-gonia gear. Young blade in shiny new kit patronises them and surveys his empty wallet!

In reply to 3leggeddog:

Very kind of you to infer that I'm a young blade in shiny new kit... I'm actually significantly older than you, young fella! Oh, and I suppose you were there at the time, had the discussion with them, as we did, about the route and their experience (which, in their own words, wasn't great) and that you saw them climb and assessed their abilities (which, bearing the length of time it took them to get onto the notch after three attempts - including downclimbing twice to try again - we're not all that great!) before commenting? No? You weren't there, as part of our group? Ah... that's it - you're either a psychic know all who knows everything that happens in the Lakes, or one of those smart@rse rock jockies who doesn't think climbing and safety go together! Which one are you?

In reply to 3leggeddog:


...and uses the phrase "freeclimbing" to describe soloing, which undermines his credibility more than somewhat.

In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

Hi Jamie, could you be so kind as to define freeclimbing for me, together with soloing, so that readers can benefit from your superior knowledge.

Thanks!

In reply to summitjunkie:

I think most posters on here understand the difference between free climbing and soloing, for a start you can 'free climb' with ropes and protection, it just means not using artificial ais to progress.

In reply to Al Evans:
I think that leads us to an inevitable thread, perhaps hest left for a rainy day...

...ethics of aid climing slab and notch!

In reply to Anonymous:

ah... but that all depends on the abilities of the climber and the quality of the rock. A lot of the slab and notch route is fairly well polished and I'd have thought soloing was not recommended if the climber is inexperienced and/or the rock is damp.

Though I've no problem on Broad Stand, either up or down, I personally wouldn't solo Pillar Rock in any weather - too exposed for my abilities - and you wouldn't get me on Broad Stand without some protection if any of it is wet to even the slightest degree... I know my limitations!

In reply to Al Evans: Hi Al, thanks for that - I would've just hoped Jamie would've pointed out my schoolboy error in a friendly manner rather than flaming me. One is always at higher risk of making a dweeb of oneself when posting just before bed time, n' Jamie was correct I should have said soloed not freeclimbed! No need for rudeness though - 'Spose he's a mate of 3leggeddog!

In reply to summitjunkie:

Glad to see you backtracking on the foolhardy point. Broad Stand in anything but perfect conditions worries me and I've happily soloed quite a few mountain VD's. As for Slab and Notch I'd say its is more often soled by competant climbers than not.

In reply to jase53: cheers fella's for all the comments about the slab & notch route im heading up there sunday for a fell walk with a group of walkers & will look but not touch pillar rock, will leave it to you experts.
regards jase.

In reply to jase53:

you went? how was it? i'm curious, i've been thinkin of the pillar 4 a while, gonna go as soon as the weather improves.
cheers 4eventual info

In reply to summitjunkie:
Blimey! What a fuss!
Slab and Notch is a scramble. Not at all hard - just abide by the normal care rule above a drop - 3 points of contact. It isn't suitable for a first scramble as it is a grade 3, but by no means the epic this thread makes it out to be. It is one of the more famous routes in the Lakes so many people have travelled up and down it.

I scrambled up Old West and down Slab and Notch alone and didn't have problems - it is exposed but not hard. I only lead at severe, so it can hardly be that hairy.

In reply to Ross McGibbon: Hi Ross, I agree - a bit of a fuss! However, all I did was reply to the OP in a manner befitting the fact that I had no idea of his experience and to recount what we had seen there recently, indicating that whilst its not necessary to go fully kitted out on Slab & Notch, a rope might be sensible. Of all the readers on this forum, some are comfortable soloing significantly harder routes than Slab & Notch, others would benefit from a good second and the rope on it, and some shouldn't even step off the path... there's a massive gulf between the most and least experienced on here. And, as it turns out, he was going to the area fell walking, not climbing. So, bearing in mind his probable experience I stand by my reply to his post.

In reply to summitjunkie: yes summitjukie you are correct as you were only replaying to my post about the slab & notch as im mainly a rock scrambler not climber.
ross i guess your a good climber so to you it is easy.
but thanks guys for your advices its been a great help.