UKC

Tommy Caldwell Free Climbs The Nose and Freerider

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 SteveM 01 Nov 2005
First the Nose free with Beth Rodden. Then NIAD free.

Now both the Nose and Freerider in less than 24 hours. News directly from Chris Mac of Supertopo...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=114312&f=0&b...

What's next?
 UKB Shark 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM:

Inspirational and slightly depressing at the same time.
Ian Hill 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM: seems like he's got the free Nose wired then...
 alasdair19 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Ian Hill: a bit of a huber beast...
OP SteveM 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Ian Hill:

He got the Changing Corners pitch on the third attempt this time round. I'm still not convinced that anyone human can climb that pitch. Gobsmacked.
 nz Cragrat 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM:

I thought Steph Davis on the Salathe deserved more coverage....
 nz Cragrat 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM:

In all, the Nose-Freerider combination has 65 pitches, or approximately 6,000 feet, of free climbing, including nine pitches of 5.12, one of 5.13 and one 5.14a, plus dozens of burly 5.10 and 5.11 pitches.
 Mark Collins 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM:

F**kin show off!
 Dominion 01 Nov 2005
In reply to nz Cragrat:

> I thought Steph Davis on the Salathe deserved more coverage....

It is on

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

and

http://climbing.com/news/davissalathe/
 Tom Briggs 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM:

Caldwell is the perfect climbing role model and he deserves wider recognition for his talent and vision. He's not your average 'jock' and got into climbing through his Dad and love of being outdoors. He could no doubt encourage the American yoof to get off their butts and show that there's more to sporting achievement than hitting a ball with a bat. The guy is cringeworthingly modest and...dare I say it, a bit geeky. He's cool.
petejh 01 Nov 2005
In reply to SteveM: Yeah... nice effort, but what's he ever done on grit?
 nz Cragrat 01 Nov 2005
In reply to petejh:

whats grit?
 Michael Ryan 01 Nov 2005
In reply to petejh:
> (In reply to SteveM) Yeah... nice effort, but what's he ever done on grit?

Can someone give that broken record player a kick please.

 Dominion 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Mick Ryan:

If only the search facility on here allowed us to search for both of:

Authored by?: Mick Ryan

Message Text?: ever done on grit

 Michael Ryan 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Dominion:

Grit gets far more coverage than it deserves....granite is just as good.

M
 TobyA 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Didn't he also kill (maybe/maybe not) a dangerous (maybe/maybe not) Jihadi terrorist (maybe/maybe not) with his bare hands?

Positively superhero territory.
petejh 01 Nov 2005
In reply to TobyA: No.

That was Airlie Anderson.
 Michael Ryan 01 Nov 2005
In reply to TobyA:

I don't think he killed him. He pushed him off a cliff, but he lived, although he may be dead now!
 tobyfk 02 Nov 2005
In reply to Mick Ryan:
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
> I don't think he killed him. He pushed him off a cliff, but he lived, although he may be dead now!

I read that the 'terrorist' in question not only lived but also refuted almost every other detail of the kidnap/ escape story.


 TobyA 02 Nov 2005
In reply to tobyfk: Greg Childs who wrote their story is sticking by it (or at least was a couple of years ago when the Outside stringer went to Uz. and interviewed the "dead" guy). I remember people saying that Hollywood bought the film rights as the Americans they stepped off the plane coming home, but have heard nothing about it being made. Perhaps the controversy made it untenable?
 tobyfk 02 Nov 2005
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to tobyfk) Greg Childs who wrote their story is sticking by it (or at least was a couple of years ago when the Outside stringer went to Uz. and interviewed the "dead" guy).

Maybe Tommy brought him back to life? Clearly a capable fellow.

Talking of which, I love the rack description (from Chris Mac's post on SuperTopo):

1 each really small cams
2 each .75"- 2.5" (small blue camalot to gold gold camalot)
1 # 3 (the blue camalot)
1 # 4 (the gray camalot)
1 # 6 (the really big green camalot)
4 stoppers (but i dont think he placed a single one)
8 draws
6 long slings
1 60m 10mm rope


I imagine there are more than a few UKC regulars who would consider that inadequate for a VS at Stanage ...
OP SteveM 02 Nov 2005
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Absolutely. He and Beth were unfailingly polite in conversation. I just wish I'd got more photos of them on the Nose or had more of a chance to talk & watch them climb.
 MeMeMe 02 Nov 2005
In reply to tobyfk:

> I imagine there are more than a few UKC regulars who would consider that inadequate for a VS at Stanage ...

Damn right. No hexes? What was he thinking?!
 lummox 02 Nov 2005
In reply to tobyfk:
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
>
> I imagine there are more than a few UKC regulars who would consider that inadequate for a VS at Stanage ...

then again ,we don`t have his talent or ability. Nice snide comment btw.

 GrahamD 02 Nov 2005
In reply to tobyfk:

If the guy lugged that #6 Camelot up that lot, its an even bigger achievement than I'd realised !
loz 03 Nov 2005
In reply to Dominion:

Is this the same root that neil bentley and Richard Heep attenpted to do on Blood Sweet and bagels

thanks loz
 Peter Rhodes 03 Nov 2005
In reply to loz: Its similar, but freerider takes an easier (12d?) 3 pitches up on the left of the headwall that avoids the crux Salathe headwall pitches that shut down Heap and Bentley. Freerider is the "easiest" route on El Cap, Houlding tried to onsight it this season and was apparently gutted as he took one fall on a realtively easy part.

Pete
 Dominion 03 Nov 2005
In reply to loz:

Blood, Sweat and Bagels was Salathe Wall, so yes!
loz 03 Nov 2005
In reply to Dominion:

Is Salathe Wall the hardest pitch on el cap?
 Dominion 03 Nov 2005
In reply to loz:

I don't know. I guess that the Nose is, since it's only been repeated twice(?) now "free" since the first free ascent in 1994 by Lynne Hill

But I'm no yosemite expert...
 Michael Ryan 03 Nov 2005
In reply to loz:
> (In reply to Dominion)
>
> Is Salathe Wall the hardest pitch on el cap?

It's not a pitch, it's a route. And no it isn't the hardest.

Start here for some rich info on Yosemite big walls...including lots of links for further reading.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/bigwalls.html

Also recommended is Huber and Heinz Zack's book, "Yosemite - half a century of dynamic rock climbing"

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0897325575/qid=1131045986/sr=...

Mick
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