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Was anyone in the Cairngorms @ the weekend, & if so did you find any ice. I heading up there on Wednesday but the forecast isn’t looking good.
In reply to peter pan: Was there this weekend just gone, on MCoS basic mountaineering course in both northern corries. Saturday in Snechta (spelling sorry) the place was heaving. Climbers on central gulley, runnel, jacobs ladder, alladins which looked to have ice pitch in it. Plus fair few other parties climbing up rocks (mixed?) on climbs I don't know. Sunday in Corrie an Lochain (spelling again), lots out, moving up over the slab. Crags looking less icy, and things thawing in the afternoon, but lots of neve and consolidated snow about. Looked like there was plenty to do.
In reply to peter pan:
Abacus reports wet snow conditions on Sunday with avalanche evidence here and there. They reckon it'll get colder this week so you might get lucky.
Lets hope so anyway. Good luck
Abacus reports wet snow conditions on Sunday with avalanche evidence here and there. They reckon it'll get colder this week so you might get lucky.
Lets hope so anyway. Good luck
In reply to peter pan:
was there on Saturday, as reported earlier the place was heaving with climbers, conditions were pretty decent, albiet it was ratehr warm
did not hang around on teh sunday so cannot comment on conditions since
was there on Saturday, as reported earlier the place was heaving with climbers, conditions were pretty decent, albiet it was ratehr warm
did not hang around on teh sunday so cannot comment on conditions since
In reply to peter pan:
Sitting here at the Lodge gazing wistfully at a rather bare Northern Corries. Some patches of snow but otherwise looking rather thin overall. Good news is colder with some more snow for latter in the week.
Not as much ice and snow as was out in Rjukan last week
Cheers fur noo
George
Sitting here at the Lodge gazing wistfully at a rather bare Northern Corries. Some patches of snow but otherwise looking rather thin overall. Good news is colder with some more snow for latter in the week.
Not as much ice and snow as was out in Rjukan last week
Cheers fur noo
George
In reply to peter pan: In coire an Lochain on sat, mate. Good neve in gullies and top of crag aprons, buttresses fairly bare/not banked up; . Lots of parties out tho' mostly on buttress routes or the couloir; saw rope of 2 back off the vent - also 3 seperate lots of rockfall - saw 2, heard 1. Was on Snow Bunting III - had to force it on the right as crux wouldn't go; last 20' b4 topping out was on shitty, unconsolidated sugar snow. Looks cold n' settled late tues onward?
In reply to peter pan:
Which bit of the cairngorms?
I was on lochnagar on satuday, buttresses bare, black spout almost full (good enough for an ascent), turf well frozen, i think it'll of melted yesterday though. Went for a walk in glenshee yesterday and it was still frozen on the summits (only just though, stuff was on the verge of thawing).
Which bit of the cairngorms?
I was on lochnagar on satuday, buttresses bare, black spout almost full (good enough for an ascent), turf well frozen, i think it'll of melted yesterday though. Went for a walk in glenshee yesterday and it was still frozen on the summits (only just though, stuff was on the verge of thawing).
In reply to jazzyjackson:
The Abacus report was most likely for Glen Coe, Ben Nevis, Aonoch Mor or thereabouts as they are based in Fort Bill.
The Abacus report was most likely for Glen Coe, Ben Nevis, Aonoch Mor or thereabouts as they are based in Fort Bill.
In reply to peter pan:
The forecast is looking COLD for the next few days up in the Cairngorms - jolly good I say as I'm heading up there tomorrow for three days.
Is Central Gully or Aladdins in condition. I'm a novice at winter stuff but I want to take my wife up a grade 1 - she's up for the climb.
Rich
The forecast is looking COLD for the next few days up in the Cairngorms - jolly good I say as I'm heading up there tomorrow for three days.
Is Central Gully or Aladdins in condition. I'm a novice at winter stuff but I want to take my wife up a grade 1 - she's up for the climb.
Rich
In reply to Malcolm: Garbh Coire on Braeriach was pretty snowy on sat considering the recent warm spell, white buttresses and frozen turf but unconsolidated snow. Did Sphinx Ridge.
In reply to Lawman:
Aladdin's looked a bit thin from where I was, but didn't get a good look at it (top of Fiacaill a Coire Cas was the closest I got. I think with aladdin's couloir the difficulties are at the bottom so you shouldn't have to retreat far if it does get a bit too thin.
Aladdin's looked a bit thin from where I was, but didn't get a good look at it (top of Fiacaill a Coire Cas was the closest I got. I think with aladdin's couloir the difficulties are at the bottom so you shouldn't have to retreat far if it does get a bit too thin.
> Did Sphinx Ridge.
What's it like? I fancy doing Sphinx Ridge in summer - looks like it might be a lovely sunny ramble on a good day.
Cheers,
Joe
In reply to peter pan:
www.edinburghjmcs.org.uk/conditions
some folk were out over the weekend - gully lines
complete, but rock very black.
davy
www.edinburghjmcs.org.uk/conditions
some folk were out over the weekend - gully lines
complete, but rock very black.
davy
In reply to Malcolm:
Stopping @ Aviemore youthie, was planning to drive up to the ski centre & spend a few days in the corries (sneachda & lochain)
> (In reply to peter pan)
> Which bit of the cairngorms?
> Which bit of the cairngorms?
Stopping @ Aviemore youthie, was planning to drive up to the ski centre & spend a few days in the corries (sneachda & lochain)
Was there today, looked not bad from a distance but was saddened when we got closer. The Runnel, Crotched Gully, Red Gully and Goat Track Gully all saw ascents. Te mixed lines weren't in unless you are into dry tooling. Conditions were lean to say the least, the ice was peeling away and melting turf was defrosting and the snow was ok in places. Hope you get snow and cold temps otherwise i fear your trip wil have been wasted. It was that bad today, i was gutted!
In reply to Anonymous:
I'm planning a day out on Sat in the Gorms.
Was expecting some cold this week.
This forecasting is shit isnt it, spend hours a week looking only to be continually let down.
Bah humbug!
I'm planning a day out on Sat in the Gorms.
Was expecting some cold this week.
This forecasting is shit isnt it, spend hours a week looking only to be continually let down.
Bah humbug!
Well, car is packed & tank is brimmed. Like last post says. We live for the mountain trips. I know there’s snow in the corries & the temp is dropping. & even if it turns mild, I’ll dry climb something…………whatever it is, it’ll sure beat work.
In reply to peter pan:
thats the spirit, cue the bagpipe music. Good luck.
Will be doing the same later this week, Whahey.
thats the spirit, cue the bagpipe music. Good luck.
Will be doing the same later this week, Whahey.
In reply to thelongwalkin: Good effort.I like someone that uses their imagination to get away from the usual places. Did you walk in/do the climb/walk out in the same day? Or kip over? What was your route like?
In reply to M Phillips:
Fair point. But its not just imagination thats needed. Its time thats the big problem with one day trips from far away cities.
Would love to try other areas but often with a 4.30am start the furthest and deepest crag I can manage is Scheachtor or Lochain!
Fair point. But its not just imagination thats needed. Its time thats the big problem with one day trips from far away cities.
Would love to try other areas but often with a 4.30am start the furthest and deepest crag I can manage is Scheachtor or Lochain!
In reply to peter pan: looks like new snow down to car park level at cairngorm.
In reply to jazzyjackson: But if you drive up the night before, sleep in the car, bivi or camp then you can get an early start anywhere.
In reply to lasonj:
Bivi in the car you say! That sounds hardcore! Dont know if I'm up for that, I'm a married man. The whole reasoning behind the 1 day push is to minimise unreasonable disruption to my other half.
Good tip though, cheers.
Better get a few magic trees for your car dude! Also, avoid eggs the night before and leave the window open when you crash : )
> (In reply to jazzyjackson) But if you drive up the night before, sleep in the car, bivi or camp then you can get an early start anywhere.
--
Bivi in the car you say! That sounds hardcore! Dont know if I'm up for that, I'm a married man. The whole reasoning behind the 1 day push is to minimise unreasonable disruption to my other half.
Good tip though, cheers.
Better get a few magic trees for your car dude! Also, avoid eggs the night before and leave the window open when you crash : )
In reply to jazzyjackson: Aaaaah, bit under the thumb then!? Don't sleep in the car unless you don't mind not being able to stretch out!! Just bivi beside the car. And I don't have smelly feet and don't eat eggs.
In reply to lasonj:
thats not what I heard : )
Have a good weekend, eggs or not.
> (In reply to jazzyjackson) And I don't have smelly feet and don't eat eggs.
-
thats not what I heard : )
Have a good weekend, eggs or not.
Back safe & sound, good conditions in Coire An Sneachda. This is me struggling up Crotched Gully
http://i1.tinypic.com/mrzeat.jpg
http://i1.tinypic.com/mrzeat.jpg
In reply to peter pan: Face it scotland went out with straight picks, unless you live there save your money and go abroad. You cant polish the turd that is overcrowded scottish slush. Times have changed and so has the weather, take a reality check; It's more realistic to climb based in London than Avieless/skag william.
In reply to essexboy: Troll off! (that's opposed to F off)
In reply to essexboy:
I would love to climb abroad. But this is our 1st season on graded winter climbs, so we are starting with the easy? Grade I /II’s in Cairngorms. We managed Jacob’s Ladder, Aladdin’s Couloir & Mirror and Crotched Gully this trip & plan to get back a couple more times before the end of March. I sort of know what you saying about British winters, not much snow in Scotland @ the moment. But we found plenty in the corries in Aviemore & plenty of good condition ice. But you’re coming across as a bit of an elitist tossa saying everyone should travel abroad coz Scottish winter climbing is sh1te.
> Face it scotland went out with straight picks, unless you live there save your money and go abroad. You cant polish the turd that is overcrowded scottish slush. Times have changed and so has the weather, take a reality check; It's more realistic to climb based in London than Avieless/skag william.
I would love to climb abroad. But this is our 1st season on graded winter climbs, so we are starting with the easy? Grade I /II’s in Cairngorms. We managed Jacob’s Ladder, Aladdin’s Couloir & Mirror and Crotched Gully this trip & plan to get back a couple more times before the end of March. I sort of know what you saying about British winters, not much snow in Scotland @ the moment. But we found plenty in the corries in Aviemore & plenty of good condition ice. But you’re coming across as a bit of an elitist tossa saying everyone should travel abroad coz Scottish winter climbing is sh1te.
In reply to essexboy:
dont sell yourself short essexboy, I'm sure you could prob polish a turd up quite well !
> (In reply to peter pan) You cant polish the turd that is overcrowded scottish slush.
------
dont sell yourself short essexboy, I'm sure you could prob polish a turd up quite well !
In reply to Donald M:
Leashless on grade I? Hardcore.
I'm also somewhat curious about what the slack rope below the climber is doing.
Leashless on grade I? Hardcore.
I'm also somewhat curious about what the slack rope below the climber is doing.
In reply to Jamie B.:
I wasn’t climbing, I was belaying. That’s why I wasn’t holding the leash. There’s an ice screw behind my left hand which I am clipped into, my climbing bro it anchored to the route by the placement he belayed me up on. I was getting my feet set before I started him off on the next pitch when I would be paying out the rope below my feet as he climbs upwards. Hey don’t be so quick to pass judgement on a couple of newbie’s who are learning the hard way (Chill).
> (In reply to Donald M)
>
> Leashless on grade I? Hardcore.
>
> I'm also somewhat curious about what the slack rope below the climber is doing.
>
> Leashless on grade I? Hardcore.
>
> I'm also somewhat curious about what the slack rope below the climber is doing.
I wasn’t climbing, I was belaying. That’s why I wasn’t holding the leash. There’s an ice screw behind my left hand which I am clipped into, my climbing bro it anchored to the route by the placement he belayed me up on. I was getting my feet set before I started him off on the next pitch when I would be paying out the rope below my feet as he climbs upwards. Hey don’t be so quick to pass judgement on a couple of newbie’s who are learning the hard way (Chill).
In reply to peter pan:
You belay on one screw? That is hardcore
BB@work
> There’s an ice screw behind my left hand which I am clipped into
You belay on one screw? That is hardcore
BB@work
In reply to peter pan:
Not judgemental, just curious. You're absoloutely right; the best way to learn is to get out there, make mistakes and learn from them. It is however quite a steep learning curve in winter and I for one certainly flirted with disaster frequently in that first year or two.
So it's not from any sense of lofty self-importance that I'm telling you that I don't think your belay is very good. Would you like me to explain why?
Not judgemental, just curious. You're absoloutely right; the best way to learn is to get out there, make mistakes and learn from them. It is however quite a steep learning curve in winter and I for one certainly flirted with disaster frequently in that first year or two.
So it's not from any sense of lofty self-importance that I'm telling you that I don't think your belay is very good. Would you like me to explain why?
In reply to peter pan:
He'll understand, and I might be talking crap anyway. I've only got a photo to go on, you were there.
It just doesn't really look like the sort of ice that would take screws very convincingly; more like firm snow to be honest. As someone else said, even if the ice is perfect two screws should be considered a minimum. If it isn't then perhaps you should have created a snow belay with your axes. These can be surprisingly strong in good snow, and the impact force of any fall onto the belay can be reduced further by sitting in a bucket-seat and employing a traditional waist belay. Better still however would be to excavate the nearby rock for some gear cracks; this will always be the strongest option. Sometimes it is better to accept a stonking rock belay after 35-40m than to belay to something naff after 50m, for all that people will tell you to milk maximum rope-length out of each pitch.
Other points are a bit picky; your axes are very shallow in the snow/ice and not connected to anything. If your leader goes right again there is a danger that they could get flicked out by his rope. This happened to me once and it was something of a miracle that the following team weren't injured as a result. Drive 'em in by the shafts and stick them out of the way, perhaps clipping them into the belay. I'd also try to cut/kick yourself a bigger ledge.
Good wee route Crotched Gully; coincidently it was my first winter lead.
He'll understand, and I might be talking crap anyway. I've only got a photo to go on, you were there.
It just doesn't really look like the sort of ice that would take screws very convincingly; more like firm snow to be honest. As someone else said, even if the ice is perfect two screws should be considered a minimum. If it isn't then perhaps you should have created a snow belay with your axes. These can be surprisingly strong in good snow, and the impact force of any fall onto the belay can be reduced further by sitting in a bucket-seat and employing a traditional waist belay. Better still however would be to excavate the nearby rock for some gear cracks; this will always be the strongest option. Sometimes it is better to accept a stonking rock belay after 35-40m than to belay to something naff after 50m, for all that people will tell you to milk maximum rope-length out of each pitch.
Other points are a bit picky; your axes are very shallow in the snow/ice and not connected to anything. If your leader goes right again there is a danger that they could get flicked out by his rope. This happened to me once and it was something of a miracle that the following team weren't injured as a result. Drive 'em in by the shafts and stick them out of the way, perhaps clipping them into the belay. I'd also try to cut/kick yourself a bigger ledge.
Good wee route Crotched Gully; coincidently it was my first winter lead.
In reply to Jamie B.: #
all interesting points, although I'd like to ask.
- when the snow is that steep can you use an ice axe belay?
- was the snow thick enough to create an ice axe belay ?(it's lean since jan isn't it?)
- couldy you drive them in by the shafts in snow that shallow ?
PS I'm a novice winter climber so these are real questions I'm after answers for
all interesting points, although I'd like to ask.
- when the snow is that steep can you use an ice axe belay?
- was the snow thick enough to create an ice axe belay ?(it's lean since jan isn't it?)
- couldy you drive them in by the shafts in snow that shallow ?
PS I'm a novice winter climber so these are real questions I'm after answers for
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I don't think the snow is as steep as it looks; check out the background. If the snow cover is thin then no, you might not be able to bury axes, but in these conditions a grade I/II gully is unlikely to be complete and there should in any case be plenty of rock available.
I don't think the snow is as steep as it looks; check out the background. If the snow cover is thin then no, you might not be able to bury axes, but in these conditions a grade I/II gully is unlikely to be complete and there should in any case be plenty of rock available.
In reply to Jamie B.:
what about if it was this steep?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=11431
what about if it was this steep?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=11431
In reply to CurlyStevo: No problem, just kick out a massive bucket seat first. This is an integral part of a snow belay that has a chance of working.
In reply to Jamie B.:
Although relativity new (naive) to winter climbing, I have done a fair bit of rock climbing up to SPA standard. So we had a pretty comprehensive rack, we were placing slings on spikes & wired nuts & cams in the exposed rock. But we only had two screws, 1 dead man & 1 bulldog. I would say we placed about 2/3 bits of protection each pitch & we only were using a 30m rope. Beneath the snow there was a fair bit of stable ice which the screws bit into well, especially in the top half of the routes. I suppose you never know how good the placements are until they take a fall, but to be honest we were only climbing grade 1/II’s. We felt quite confident on this sort of angle & the object of the exercise was to practice gear placement & gain experience in relatively safe circumstances.
http://i1.tinypic.com/mtwh7p.jpg
Although relativity new (naive) to winter climbing, I have done a fair bit of rock climbing up to SPA standard. So we had a pretty comprehensive rack, we were placing slings on spikes & wired nuts & cams in the exposed rock. But we only had two screws, 1 dead man & 1 bulldog. I would say we placed about 2/3 bits of protection each pitch & we only were using a 30m rope. Beneath the snow there was a fair bit of stable ice which the screws bit into well, especially in the top half of the routes. I suppose you never know how good the placements are until they take a fall, but to be honest we were only climbing grade 1/II’s. We felt quite confident on this sort of angle & the object of the exercise was to practice gear placement & gain experience in relatively safe circumstances.
http://i1.tinypic.com/mtwh7p.jpg
In reply to peter pan:
Did you investigate the cracks in the rock to the right or directly above the screw in that photo?
Did you investigate the cracks in the rock to the right or directly above the screw in that photo?
In reply to peter pan:
Is that the final pitch of Jacob's? Quite entertaining when thin!
Is that the final pitch of Jacob's? Quite entertaining when thin!
In reply to Jim Fraser:
Aye, it sure is. It got steeper again towards the finish ( at least for my limited winter experience) & I would expect the top would hold a sizable cornice when banked out.
Aye, it sure is. It got steeper again towards the finish ( at least for my limited winter experience) & I would expect the top would hold a sizable cornice when banked out.
In reply to peter pan: nice pictures from last weekend here....plateau cover pretty good.
http://www.winterhighland.info/forum/read.php?2,58057,58080#msg-58080
http://www.winterhighland.info/forum/read.php?2,58057,58080#msg-58080
In reply to Lawman:Alladins bare on top so not an easy 1 and I did central on Sunday. Again not a 1 probably more like a II. Followed a couple with a dog up which was interesting!!!
In reply to peter pan:
Have just got back after three days in the Northern Corries. Found that there were a limited number of routes climeable so they were pretty crowded even for midweek.
Did The Runnel on Tuesday- found it to be in good but icy condition with a very mixed section in the chimney.
Did Y Gully Right Hand on Wednesday which had some very steep icy sections in the middle- hard for the grade. The biggest problem was the number of other parties trying to climb it at the same time. Total crazyness.
Oesophagus looked like it was in good icy but thin condition. Looked hard for the grade. At least 3 parties climbed it that day so may well be hacked to bits by now!
We then descended the Fiacaill ridge which was really a rock scramble. no crampons or axes required.
Saw someone fall off the Goat Track as we were descending. It has become very icy and is really quite dangerous. The guy was choppered out. Saw his mate on the way down and it sounds like he'll be ok but had a nasty head injury- we wish him a speedy recovery.
The crush in the gullies on Wednesday put us off climbing on Thursday so we went back up the Fiacaill ridge and walked over to Ben Macdui in gorgeous sunshine. Got sunburned!
Cood hard neve on the plateau.
Drove up to Corrie Cas on Friday in the rain. Car park heaving. Snow at lower levels gone. Couldn't face another bunfight so went to Edradour distilllery instead! Hic!
Have just got back after three days in the Northern Corries. Found that there were a limited number of routes climeable so they were pretty crowded even for midweek.
Did The Runnel on Tuesday- found it to be in good but icy condition with a very mixed section in the chimney.
Did Y Gully Right Hand on Wednesday which had some very steep icy sections in the middle- hard for the grade. The biggest problem was the number of other parties trying to climb it at the same time. Total crazyness.
Oesophagus looked like it was in good icy but thin condition. Looked hard for the grade. At least 3 parties climbed it that day so may well be hacked to bits by now!
We then descended the Fiacaill ridge which was really a rock scramble. no crampons or axes required.
Saw someone fall off the Goat Track as we were descending. It has become very icy and is really quite dangerous. The guy was choppered out. Saw his mate on the way down and it sounds like he'll be ok but had a nasty head injury- we wish him a speedy recovery.
The crush in the gullies on Wednesday put us off climbing on Thursday so we went back up the Fiacaill ridge and walked over to Ben Macdui in gorgeous sunshine. Got sunburned!
Cood hard neve on the plateau.
Drove up to Corrie Cas on Friday in the rain. Car park heaving. Snow at lower levels gone. Couldn't face another bunfight so went to Edradour distilllery instead! Hic!
In reply to The Gibbon:
I was involved with the rescue you described. Does anyone know how Dave got on once we got him choppered out? I guess he should be OK. Thanks to everyone who helped out - it was especially helpful that 2 guys from mountain rescue were out on the hill, and were with us within 10 minutes.
> Saw someone fall off the Goat Track as we were descending. It has become very icy and is really quite dangerous. The guy was choppered out. Saw his mate on the way down and it sounds like he'll be ok but had a nasty head injury- we wish him a speedy recovery.
I was involved with the rescue you described. Does anyone know how Dave got on once we got him choppered out? I guess he should be OK. Thanks to everyone who helped out - it was especially helpful that 2 guys from mountain rescue were out on the hill, and were with us within 10 minutes.
In reply to aoh45:
You will find that this will happen more often now that every team member has a personal issue radio. (Thank you, Justice Dept.)
> (In reply to The Gibbon)
> - it was especially helpful that 2 guys from mountain rescue were out on the hill, and were with us within 10 minutes.
> - it was especially helpful that 2 guys from mountain rescue were out on the hill, and were with us within 10 minutes.
You will find that this will happen more often now that every team member has a personal issue radio. (Thank you, Justice Dept.)
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