UKC

dunno why i haven't already got some, just allways seemed to borrow other peoples. I've got everything else plus i have 2 friends size 2 and 2.5. I don't really want to shell out on a full set cos i'm skint and i'm not sure a full set is necessary. My friend said, get the biggest one's, you rarely get 'em in but when you do it feels good. Any one else have any ideas?

joe

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

placing a size 9 hex is good it just feels right

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

If you already have a full set of nuts then personally I don't see the point of getting the smaller hexes. I'd just get three or four of the larger ones. But then I prefer nuts on the whole.

Which of your friends hexes do you find you actually use? Well then; those are the ones you'll need.

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva: Depends really where u climb the most as in my opinion a decent rack of cams proves to be the most versatile but hexes do fit better in some places , i have only got the 4 large sizes of them and only carry them if i know that a route does need a big piece of metal in it. Id get a friend 3 and 4 and thats really all you need.

In reply to lost1977: I prefer a no 7 i touches my spot

In reply to tatty112:

a 7 is very nice have used mine on many routes , but a 9 just gives you the ultimate feeling of security can't beat that

Phil

In reply to lost1977: a seven and a nine so far, has any one got any particular wishes for any particular size, i was thinking 5 but it's up to you...

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

dont go for hexes go for rock centrics and old rocks on tape they are wider and firmers than the new ones

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva: depends on where you climb - if it's anything like my local crag (avon) then you'll never place them - i dont have any and dont intend to get them

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

would have said sizes 7-9 are the best (also the loudest)

Phil

yeh, i think i understand, your definitely a climber with that racket going on...

i climb at aberdour, kyloe (out) traprain lore. i think quite a variety of sized pro is available really. Plus i intend going further afield when i'm confident and doing multipitch stuff too.
i figure the rule for hex rockcentrics as ice climbing pro is bigger rather than smaller, less chance of getting iced up cracks
i would probably get rockcentrics as they seem to be the most popular, in the shops anyway

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:


Ummmm..... Am I being a bit thick here? I haven't a clue what you mean.

Bigger is better if you have limited funds because your rocks and friends will most likely fit the bill for the smaller cracks.

remember, a set of rocks (for example) going to a number ten say, will require you to have to start with a number five hexentric for a seamless transition...

you can see this by the colour coding on wild country stuff, personally i have one number 11 rock (the green one) which is sweet and then go straight to a number 6 hex (red)and from there to 7 8 9...

this gives a nice crossover whereby you have something to fit every size crack...

i like the look of the new big rocks though which would cover the same sizes and the colours correspond ie number 6 hex is red as is the number 12 rock...

i hope that makes sense...

In reply to Damian L:


Jules B off this site has a set of them. We used them along with my Cams at Cummingston which requires a lot of wide crack pro. They fitted in a lot of places that my full set of Rockcentrics might well not have done. Didn't even bother the Rockcentrics as they seemed pointless with the large nuts.

Ands

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:
I have a full set, but probably wouldn't bother lugging much more than the 3 5 7 9 up to the crag ubnless i realy thought id use them all

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

I have a full set of Rockcentrics on Dyneema (3-9), an extra size 3 I found somewhere and a couple of HB Quadcentrics (which are utterly ace incidentally). Last summer climbing on Cornish Granite I could have used even more than that.

I realise that is probably a bit excessive, but I reason that carrying the extra weight up every route is good additional training, plus my climbing partners are never in any doubt where I am at any point. I could never be a climbing ninja...

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:
Shoudl also add, i have placed rockcentrics (curvy new ones on dynema) and hexentrics (old fashioned straight edged ones), and always feel that the hexentrics are much more reasuring to place, as once they are in, they feel like that could have a bus hung from them!

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva: yes, ten full sets.

In reply to Ian McNeill:
would have to second that.

Rock centrics sit much better than hexes.

I've got a 7 + 9 and may add to them when i've got spare cash. Bigger for grit, smaller for Lakes.

What about getting larger nuts, i think rocks go up to 14 ?

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

A #9 saved me a couple of weeks ago! I seem to use my mate's 7, 8 & 9 a lot on our local limestone. I have also found that the smaller ones can be easier to place than wired nuts as the wire sometimes gets in the way of a good nut placement or the mearest tweak on a wire may lift a nut out, the dyneema on the rockcentrics gets round these problems.

In reply to sandywilson:
A number 11 is the way forward! Beats a 9 for that secure feeling.
(And I manage to place it most times I'm out for all those who think its too big!!)

Dom

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

No.

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

If you have friends around 1 - 2.5 then you should have those pro covered plus nuts.

I do have a few sea gull slayers 10-12 as they are often needed in the big flare jobs or ones that I don't want to loose a friend in (see my ode to lost friend thred)

Domonic s swears by little ones, but then he does have a flat cap.

up to you though.

In reply to Joseph de Villanueva:

No.

You only need sizes 7, 8 & 9, if you need those.

well.

i went to rosyth quarry today with my nice new shiny rockcentrics size 5, 7, and 9 and had a whale of a time, plus i managed to place all the hexes and they all felt pretty good, i think hexes rule. thanks for the advice

joe