UKC

Some protectionless routes in the UK that were once given E-grades are now increasingly given bouldering grades, Font or V, take your pick, and are redefined as highball boulder problems - or Super Blocs to some.

In an interesting twist, Wills Young of Bishop, sent us a list of highball boulder problems around Bishop, California, that he has assigned E-grades to.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"In 2002 the French boulder Tony Lamiche added a sit-start bumping the grade from V12 to V14"

he must be well 'ard

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So no E-grades for the medium-ball VB's I did then

Interesting. In the video of Jason Kehl doing Evilution (awesome by the way) he falls off the final hard moves numerous times. He's fine obviously cos he has a stack of pads to land on. So surely not E8 when done this way?

In reply to TRNovice:

Name them and I'll do my best.

Some of those VB's and V1's are E1/2. Loys are HVS/VS.

In reply to seagull:

Putting pads under E-grades - perish the thought!!!

Ever watch Hard Grit?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Not that I did it, but out of interest, what would you say Heavenly Path (V1) would go at?

In reply to seagull:

Well you go out on do it and then give us your assessment.

The fall from the lip has seen snapped ankles. A fall from above the lip.....oh dear. Still it's not Meshuga.

In reply to TRNovice:

E1...firm. When the angle changes and you commit, there really is no coming down. I've seen people freak totally on that top slab.

In reply to TRNovice:

Exactly. When a route receives it's E grade for it's potentially dangerous nature then to reduce the danger reduces the E grade. My point is the same on grit or anything else. If you can fall off the hard moves safely with pads then it simply a highball problem and E grades are not applicable.

In reply to seagull:

I'll ask Wills if these E-grade suggestions are for pad/mat or pad-less/mat-less ascents.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I can imagine I think we must have been at The Happys for at least 7 of our days in Bishop - didn't see anyone on Heavenly Path on any of those days - I would guess you would have to be pretty solid at V3 or above to climb it with impunity .

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Cheers. Be interested to know. I agree that falling off above the lip on Evilution is obviously not an option. It's a fantastic looking piece of climbing but unfortunately I don't think I'll ever regain enough power to attempt it!

Kehl also turned an 8c+ Dave Graham route (The Fly?) into a highball problem didn't he? The guy has serious balls.

In reply to TRNovice:

Desperate for V3 that one. I'd give that E1....when you do reach the change of angle after the crux it is jug city though. Bit of a jarring fall from the crux.....says in the guide that "the grade is traditional" - I'd say V4.....a good English tech 6b.

10m.....you know that Hubble thing at Raven Tor is only 10m.

M

In reply to seagull:

Sharma did it to the lip first. Don't think he had a rope with him whilst in Bishop. Darn purist.



Headpoint. There is some discussion that if you use a rope that you really can't say that it is a boulder problem.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Thanks for your thoughts Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


Jesus. Ethics don't get any less complicated do they?! So Evilution is still technically a headpoint and not a boulder problem (to some people) as Kehl was meant to have top roped it first? Sorry for banging on about this I just find it interesting.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


Snook? I asume you meant to use the American "snuck", but interestingly (for me anyway), "snook" is

1. A gesture of defiance
2. A type of fish

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/snook

So there you go. No wonder people get confused by climbing jargon...

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I'm claiming an honorary E2 5b-ish for Jugs of Life on the back of the Happy Boulder. Scared myself silly on that one after getting committed above a single small pad.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Couple of pics of The Beautiful and the Damned

http://climbing.com/exclusive/problog/ethan/ethan_2-EP-PB3.jpg

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j310/jerrydodrill/BD3.jpg

Looks huge!

In reply to TimS:

Perfect rock up there too.

Thanks Tim.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Where abouts are the Bardini's? Are they in your new guide?

In reply to TimS:

A mile past the main Peabody area....about 15 minutes from the road.

Just directions, a description and a photo are in the guide, not a catalogue of problems.

A very intensely beautiful area.....golden boulders scattered on a gentle hillside, high flat meadows in front of you.....then the Sierra rise right up in front of you.

Lots if moderates: VB to V4.....Maze of Death is there V12........and lots of big big boulders.......This Side Of Paradise V10 as well as The Beautiful....

M

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Cheers Mick, will deffo check it out next time I'm around beeshop, think I might get the guide for some inspiration!

In reply to seagull:

Kehl was lucky. And he is no slouch on highballs, and knowing how to land for that matter. You wouldnt bank on not hurting yourself. As Mick says, it has broken ankles. Also its not all over where Kehl is falling off. E8 without a really decent splattering of pads.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: im just buzzing off the dude trying to spot lisa rands in the picture on the news item, if he spotted a fall from there she would probably kill him.