UKC

pinnacle ridge "downclimb at diff"

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 Wilbur 29 May 2007
Surely some mistake?

I was soloing this last wk and got to the ab station intending to downclimb.. looked very unlikely at the grade.. it was wet with strong winds but still... had to reverse down the entire bloody thing as didn't fancy my chances!!
 Jimmy D 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur:

Yeah, downclimbing this on-sight would be pretty intimidating. It would be hard to suss from above as it's a bit undercut IIRC. I've done it the other way, and it took me a while to commit to it.
OP Wilbur 29 May 2007
In reply to Jimmy D:

cheers for the thoughts. i spent a long time trying to suss it out and decided against it in the end... probably sensible - 'Scottish Diff' shld be the given grade no?
 sutty 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur:

Thought Innaccessible pinnacle was vdiff on short side, seemed it in the wet anyway. Certainly not a route to solo down in the rain.
 Jamie B 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur:

Is that Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean? If so, I agree; doesn't look like it'd be Diff even going up.
 S Andrew 29 May 2007
In reply to Jamie B.:

Ha. Then you should try the 'Mod' Witches Step on Arran.
wcdave 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur: I remember doing PR, with grand plans of downclimbing that pinnacle. When we reached the top, I looked down, mate looked down, mate and me looked at each other, and in unison said 'feck that'.

And aye, we reversed it all too. No way is that a Diff.
Tim Chappell 29 May 2007
In reply to Irton Pike:

Brilliant place to descend. You get on that slab above the through-route, slither over the edge, drop, and hope
 yorkshiregrit 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur:

It's easier than it looks. I found the next bit around Knight's Peak just as tricky & scary. For that matter the first long climb up the buttress to the crest of the ridge is quite scary as well. That was in good conditions though - I wouldn't fancy trying the downclimb if it were wet, or in strong winds.
 David Hooper 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur: If u r talking about PR on Sgurr nan Gillian - I only remember getting the rope out to abseil down a sketchy bit - is that the downclimb you refer to?

Didnt think the route was really VD - we managed to solo it all quite happily.

Brilliant day (and evening) out though
 sutty 29 May 2007
In reply to David Hooper:

After Wilbur talking of doing the ridge I though he meant the inn pin.

That short descent is not hard, we used to rope students on it and climb down afterwards even in the rain. We also roped them past the Gendarme, said to have gone now so no idea if it is easier or harder.
 k2hvs 29 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur: Me and a mate did it for the first time two winters ago after a few bevies the night before. The whole route was covered in snow and rhime ice. I sh@t a brick when we got to the abseil!! I remember opening my eyes at the bottom and looking up. It didnt look as bad from below as looking down it!!
OP Wilbur 30 May 2007
In reply to David Hooper:
> (In reply to Wilbur) If u r talking about PR on Sgurr nan Gillian - I only remember getting the rope out to abseil down a sketchy bit - is that the downclimb you refer to?

yes - that's the fella. there is an ab on the 3rd pinnacle. i didn't have rope or harness with me...
In reply to Wilbur:

You can just backtrack a bit and walk round on the N.Side to rejoin at the col. Shame if you went all the way back down,
 Glen 30 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur:

I don't think I'd down climb it (not in big boots anyway).
Looks harder than Diff from memory, but you never know until you get on it I suppose!
 Doug 30 May 2007
In reply to Wilbur: I've downclimbed that 'on sight', mainly because we didn't have a rope with us, its more intimidating than difficult, but not easy to grade. If I had to grade it I'd probably say Diff or maybe V Diff but it was a dry sunny day.

 JB 30 May 2007
In reply to Doug:

Did the ridge in v good conditions a few years ago. Took the rope and abbed down - have to say the downclimb did not look very straightforward even in nice weather.

We also met a soloer who had retreated, think he had almost got to the abseil tat before backing off.
OP Wilbur 30 May 2007
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:
> (In reply to Wilbur)
>
> You can just backtrack a bit and walk round on the N.Side to rejoin at the col. Shame if you went all the way back down,

doh! yes - i reversed it all...! Wish i'd known that..

in my defence i wasn't wearing climbing shoes, it was v wet and v v windy and i was on my own...

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