UKC

I finished reading High Endeavours for the 2nd time last night, and as I reached for the light switch I noticed that it was in fact the anniversary of Robin Smiths death - the 45th (he died 24th July 1962) for the record.

I consider him worthy of a mention on here:

The stories - particularly those written by himself - about his climbs and adventures are incredible, and genuinely awe inspiring. And that he was considered by the age of 23 to have been the best SMC mountaineer of his generation, and quite possibly ever, says quite a lot about his ability.

I know I'm relatively new to this climbing/mountaineering game, but I'm pretty confident that during the times when other sources of motivation and inspiration start to wane I'll be able to pick this book up and read one of his articles to suitably enthuse me again.

To the point... Basically, just post your thoughts about him and his routes (I'm nowhere near good enough to have tried any... yet!).

In reply to Calder:

Aye, great book, inspirational guy, and a great guy by all accounts.

In reply to martin riddell:

Good book, better climber. His enthusiasm and lack of fear actually scared me (!). The book itself I found a bit dull at times but to read after having climbed on the Ben etc put some flesh on the bones...

In reply to Calder:

Yes, Smith was something else, he was head and shoulders above his generation. The legacy of his routes has lasted the test of time. It was extraordinary that a Smith Route is usually the best line on the crag and at the time also the hardest one. I am fortunate that I have done most of Smith’s routes and have not been disappointed with any of them.

I found the book disappointing, but that maybe because I had heard so much about him from people who knew him.

It is sad about his passing, but his legacy will live for ever.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

Where was Smith from originally?
I tried Google but couldn't find this detail

In reply to Gavin Taylor:

Born in India and sent back to school in Scotland Perthshire and Edinburgh) if I recall correctly.

In reply to Gavin Taylor:

A bit more here if you are interested.

http://heritage.scotsman.com/greatscots.cfm?id=2256322005

In reply to Slugain Howff:

That's great - thanks.

So he was a "colonial" Scot, like me. A vanishing breed.
(However, I was educated abroad and I'm certainly not known for being "fearless".)

In reply to Calder:

amazing guy and a great book.

I reckon he got dragged off that mountain in the Pamirs by Wilfred. I just feel his cat like reactions would never have allowed such a slip. Will never know.

Roping together is evil and has taken many great Alpinists from us.

In reply to Calder:

Yep, good book.

The front cover would make agood poster, anyone know if its for sale ?

In reply to Calder:

sadly the book does not do justice to the man. I was at watsons college in the mid 70s and he was still being talked about. Like many who die young, he left an aura of mystery and charisma. a great tragedy.

In reply to stonewall:

So was I - left in 77. I remember Archie Hendry - one of Smith's mentors - as being something of a dragon in class, but he comes out as a thoroughly decent chap in the book.

In reply to Calder: My dad climbed with him.

In reply to Calder:

I've got the book on the bedside table ready to start.

Looking forward to getting stuck in

In reply to tony:

papa hendry !
what I loved about that school is that they got us out climbing in the mountains. I wonder if health and safety allows the same degree of adventure now. doubt it.

In reply to nastyned:

what does he say about him ?

In reply to Calder: Try and catch Jim Currans film of a recreation of the first ascent of 'The Bat' with Rab Carrington playing Smith.

In reply to Al Evans:

Done a quick gooogle with no success - where can I catch this film (other than Fort Bill Mountain Festival)?

I'd definitely like to see it.

Ta.

In reply to stonewall:

Aye, I had a fortnight in the Lake District with Norseman and one of the biology teachers - excellent stuff. I'm pretty sure they do still do 3rd Year projects.

In reply to Calder:

Needlesports list it, quite a long way down this page:
http://www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Mail_Order_DVDs_104.html

In reply to Calder:

If you send me a jiffy bag I will copy it for you. Email me. Only joking, I'd never do such a thing.

In reply to Calder: Google Jim Curran, he has a blog site, I think you can get it from him.

The Bat

Directed, Produced and Copyright by Jim Curran and Tony Riley.

It has been 25 years since we screened The Bat in a local church, as part of the first Kendal Mountain Film Festival. The Film won the first Kendal Grand Prize. One of the best climbing films ever, it recreates Dougal Haston and in Smith’s ascent of their fabulous route The Bat on Ben Nevis, while the narration comes from Smith’s lyrical story “The Bat and the Wicked” to tell the tale. The climb was a riposte to Brown and Whillans’ Sassernach and proved that Scottish climbing had equal stars.

In reply to tony: Yes, I forgot, Needle Sports do advertise it for sale.

In reply to Calder:

Superb climber, superb book. He was a true intellectual, a rebel, a rule-breaker in the best traditions. His loss at such an early age for one so gifted is tragic.
He would have been one of, if not the best climber of his generation.

In reply to Calder:

I think Robin Smith was amazing and truly inspirational. Sometimes, when I'm in places I know he knew, like walking past the halfway lochan or looking up at one of his climbs I think about him.... being in that place once long ago and seeing what I'm seeing. It's haunting. I wish I could think of some proper tribute to pay him.

In reply to Alison Stockwell:

I feel that - a poxy thread on UKC just doesn't do him justice does it!

In reply to srnet:


I looked into this before and as far as I know it's Jimmy Marshall's photie. I don't really know him so felt a wee bit awkward contacting him to try to get a copy. You'd need to give him a shout.

In reply to Alison Stockwell:

What sort ideas do you have in mind?
I was out with Jimmy Cruickshanks on Sunday and I'm sure he'd love to do more to cement the achievements of his old pal in the public memory.

In reply to Calder:


The best thing to do is climb his routes.

In reply to jazzyjackson:


Isn't there a bit in Brown's book where he describes climbing with Smith, who goes flying head over heels down some gully and staggers out of a snowdrift suitably abashed? (Or is my memory awry?) As you say, we'll never know.

Mick

In reply to Al Evans:


Yep, a great screening. A pisshead mate of mine lobbed something (harmless) over the balcony. It bounced off Rab, who glared upward. The 'congregation' quailed.

Mick

In reply to Norrie Muir:

well said

In reply to Calder:
Im sure he was a great climber, but the book is utter rubbish. Its probably the most boring, badly written example of this genre.

In reply to Big Steve at work: Did you read that John Cunningham book. Creag Dubh Climber? I didn't think much to it and if this is the same standard I won't be bothering.

Norries suggestion would be a good challenge, anyone got a list of his routes (incl winter)?

In reply to JDal:
anyone got a list of his routes (incl winter)?

There is a complete list in the book.

In reply to JDal:


they're in the book....

In reply to Calder:

FWIW, I found the book absolute bo****cks, very nearly the hardest thing I've had to read. This does not reflect my admiration for Robin Smith.

I think the book is an unusual read for a climbing biography because it is discussing an unusually short life... So you can't really compare it that well to other books.

In reply to SFM:

Well that's that knackered then. Not that I'm up to the task in any case, I don't like winter.

In reply to JDal: I am I not correct in remembering, John, that you did the first free ascent of The Bat with Dave Jenkins, according to Ian Nicolson at the time? I'm not sure you quite intended to, mind.

In reply to Norrie Muir:

You took the words out of my mouth.

In reply to Removed User:

I have every intention of doing - but I fall way below the required standard at the mo, so it'll have to wait.

In reply to Cam Forrest:

Did Ian know about the free ascents done prior to 1965?

In reply to Cam Forrest: That's what Dave told me, I've no idea of the reality though. Who knows, E2 5b? There were a lot of British climbers operating at that grade at the time. I do remember finding it bloody scary though. God knows what it felt like,even with the points of aid, as a FA.

In reply to JDal:

When I was climbing in Wales in 1970 I got talking to a fellow climber, when I said “There is no steep rock in Scotland.” as a throw away line. He said “I found the Bat steep when I did it in 1965.”. As I had done it the previous year I enquired about how he had done the Bat, and he stated he had freed it.

Did you and Dave do the Bat in June 1970?

In reply to Norrie Muir: 69 I think, 70 was the year we chickened out of Torro. Then I went home to blighty.

In reply to Norrie Muir: I 'think' the story is that you and Ian Nicolson were on King Kong at the same time, and Ian shouted across to Dave when John emerged at the top of the corner. But memories can play tricks...

In reply to Calder:

Steve Dean did a great article on Robin Smith, which I assume was published in High a few years ago. Steve's other articles on deceased climbers such as Laurie Holliwell, John Syrett and Tony Wilmott are outstanding.

Mick