UKC

"Because I work 9,000 hours a week and — fattening with age — am increasingly cowed by real, outdoor rock climbing, I’ve become an unrepentant gymrat. But a wondrous thing has happened since sport climbing’s Dark Ages (the 1980s), when avant-garde course-setting consisted of slapping two one-finger pockets in a row....."

Learn how to cheat indoors this winter at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Wow. What is that language he's using? Is it derived from Anglo-Saxon?

J

In reply to Moacs:

I didn't know posting had a name. I wonder if it'll feel less clumsy now I know it has a name...

This bit:
"And most sneakily, you can also pop an impromptu heel-toe on larger grips by plunking your heel down and camming your toe directly against the wall."

Can someone expand on that ... I don't do it and I don't quite understand what he means. Is it effectively a way of getting an extra bit of lift into a smear?

In reply to gingerkate: I interpreted that as shoving yout toes behind a jug then dropping your heel so that the top of your toes cam against the wall. Given the incompehensible language it's written in, it could mean just about anything though.

In reply to gingerkate:

'Sketching', surely? And I was always told it was poor practice. Didn't stop me though

In reply to pictish:

Matt is American and speaks in American, similar to a lot of boulderers in the UK.

In reply to gingerkate:


That's a heel-toe cam where your heel is backed against is a protrusion and is held in place by your toe which is also cammed against a protrusion. Think of it as an arm-bar for your feet.

It takes weight of your hands, fingers and arms.......this is also known as Jessery, coined many years by the UK's Nic Sellars. Jessery takes many forms but all decrease the amount of power you need in your arms to execute a move.

Nic finished with...."please use the prescribed sequence, " in essence no cheating using jessery to makes moves easier thatn they were originally done.

M

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I thought Nick's term was faggotry

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"WTF's a "halo 3 headshot honcho" when it's at home? And what's it got to do with climbing?

In reply to Niall:
Yeah, clumsy... but there again, we don't care do we, as long as it gets us up...

Oh, sketching? Is that what makes a move sketchy then? I've heard sketchy but not sketching.

In reply to pictish and John Lisle:

I don't think the language is incomprehensible? Everything that I already do, I know what he means ok.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Thanks, I think I understand what's meant now ... but that must either need a really whopping huge foothold or very flexible ankles? I am going to experiment and see if I can do one next time I climb...

In reply to craig d:

Nope....your memory deceives you. Perhaps you have a one track mind. No mention of fags, cigars, or smoking pipes, but yes there was mention of buts.

Jess - verb, to wimp the alternative, also known as acquired strength defiiciency syndrome....

and goes on to mention.....

Knee bars

Thoracic Locks

Buttock-Crack Cams

Goatee Sprags

Hand Jamming

Heel Toe Cams, Toe Hooks, Heel Hooks

and Clever Dick Sequences.....

Note: drop-knees are not a form of jessery as they involve no pain (whose he kidding)....

TOGETHER WE CAN CRACK IT, THROW OUT YOUR KNEE PADS TODAY.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: "...modern-day gym texture is awesome — tacky, like the rubber-loving iron rock at Hueco, say." He's obviously not climbed any of the panels on the right-hand side of the alcove at Alien Rock, then: slipperier than a very slippery thing that's been specially coated in slippery solution.

And what about: "On rock, the blank space between grips is often just that: blank." One of the things I like about climbing on rock is that you can make the little natural undulations and ripples that don't really look like holds in to something for your feet. I find that much more interesting than simply smearing up a sheet of ply that's been coated in Shellgrip.

Finally: WTF does "brau-holio" mean???

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

You don't get strong by cheating.