This is easily the best climbing film since Hard Grit.
The timely questions from the man behind the camera are sometimes imperceptible. But somehow they manage to get the climbers to relax, open up and be honest about how they feel and what motivates them.
Most of the climbing is of an unrehearsed, ground up, sticking your neck right out type of style.
From a film-making point of view, it's beautifully edited and put together.
It's difficult to pick out the highlights, as each of the 10 stories is really strong in its own way. But these were my favourites:
- Emmett taking whippers ground up on a IX 9 in the Northern Corries
- Robbins and Sellers getting technical on the Slate
- Parnell and Cubbitt looking terrified on the chalk
- McClure on a different level climbing 9a+
My only criticism would be that some of the grit headpoints actually look a bit easy in comparison to most of the action i.e. the outcome is certain.
Haven't seen it but the two recent climbing fils i watched were
Committed: rather dull, like watching a steam engine at work all the excitement seemed to be lost because of it being an hour of head points.
King lines: Very good but why can't sharma stop bloody screaming and making all that noise!!??? The technical quality of the filming seemed much better than other recent climbing films but maybe it was just that he climbed in places that were sunny with golden rock and beautiful blue seas...? This was certainly the one of the two films that made me want to go climbing myself.
> (In reply to Tom Briggs)
>
> Would you characterise it as exciting or compelling rather than just interesting?
Definitely. I think it's because you really don't know what is going to happen next, that you find yourself shouting encouragement at the screen. They've obviously thought about that. Everything is given away in the first 5 minutes of Committed, whereas Slackjaw play with you a bit. There are times when you don't think someone is going to get up something and vice versa. I also actually think it would be a really great film to show none-climbers, as you learn a lot about what really motivates climbers.
In reply to Tom Briggs: I really wanna c it! My bro's oredered it for me for crimbo but its been delayed again Really hope it comes in time....I'm getting committed too but keep heraing only mediocre reviews of it
Sam L20 Dec 2007
In reply to Tom Briggs: Good good, I pre-ordered it, but now I'm at my parent's for Christmas and it's up in Leeds, so I can't watch it till new year.... I'm looking forward to it though.
Sam
Just ordered a copy on the basis of this thread - looking forward to it!
Already got Committed, Psyche and King Lines and though I enjoyed them all, I didn't thing any of them were a patch on Hard Grit, Doesage 4 or E11 (my current favourites).
what about Higher Ground, its v good. First Ascent style quality production.
My top list for whatever reason:
Hard Grit
Front Range Freaks( Derek Hersey bit is top )
Return 2 Sender(The late Michael Reardon section is superb)
Autoroute
First Ascent
Dosage 3 and 4
Only seen it once, at a friends house, and though I enjoyed the Cobra Crack section, the rest didn't stand out enough to make me want to buy my own copy.
Sam L20 Dec 2007
In reply to Will Hunt: I reckon so-I'll let you know. Although as I don't have a laptop atm I also don't have a DVD player...
Sam L20 Dec 2007
In reply to Sam L: I reckon return to sender is the best climbing film I've ever seen.
In reply to Tom Briggs: My copy has just dropped through the letterbox.
Only just put it on, but dear lord... the Choss section is one of the most worrying things I've ever seen. Whoever described Henna as being "vertical landfill" knew what they were doing.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: You've prob heard this a thousand times but...
HARD GRIT IS AWESOME!!!
...it really is Seb Grieve on Meshuga is Heart Stopping and seeing Neil Bentley fly up Renegade Master (thats on the extras i think) like its a vdiff is just awe-inspiring!
Im a bit biast tho cuz i love grit. GRIT GRIT GRIT!!!!!
Get yourself a copy of November too - iconic along with Hard Grit. It's a comic book - if you can find a copy - about Sheffield climbers, a grit arete, life, love and squirel shit tasting power bars - Jeez must be American.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Hard grit is great. On a slightly more obscure note, see if you can get to see Christophe Profit doing his 24hr enchainment of the Jorasses, Matterhorn and Eiger in winter. Over blown French hero worship at it's best! The footage of him virtually running up the Croz to be met by a helicopter with his glamorous girlfriend in who gets out only to kiss him and give him his paraglider is something we should all aspire to. Apologies for politely abusing you the other day, was fed up! All is well now though, let me know if you want to get out in the Lakes this winter, I'll be around for short periods.
> (In reply to Tom Ripley) Hard grit is great. On a slightly more obscure note, see if you can get to see Christophe Profit doing his 24hr enchainment of the Jorasses, Matterhorn and Eiger in winter. Over blown French hero worship at it's best! The footage of him virtually running up the Croz to be met by a helicopter with his glamorous girlfriend in who gets out only to kiss him and give him his paraglider is something we should all aspire to.
Was he on a par with Beckam as to national status? Also is he wearing a really cool, brightly coloured goretex suit?
Also does anyone have a copy of the film of Big Ron on Lord and/or him soloing debaurchary?
Apologies for politely abusing you the other day, was fed up! All is well now though, let me know if you want to get out in the Lakes this winter, I'll be around for short periods.
In reply to Will Hunt: Hey Will, climbing porn night round mine when everyone's back? I've got 80's - birth of the extreme too now, and will have King Lines in new year. plus i've got Committed and Psyche, if we get HXS we'll have the best of the year's films all at once!
Still not seen anything better than Underdeveloped this year. Hard XS was ok, but I definitely wouldn't say it's the best climbing film since Hard Grit.
> (In reply to Tom Briggs)
>
> Haven't seen it but the two recent climbing fils i watched were
>
> > King lines: Very good but why can't sharma stop bloody screaming and making all that noise!!???
> (In reply to Sam L)
> [...]
>
> has amazing base jumping scenes. El Gigante and Cave of Swallows. v well shot, great angles.
>
> Climb till you pop section sucks though
Don't remember any base jumping in Return to Sender, perhaps your thinking of the forthcoming movie about Dean Potter called Areialist (see trailer at http://www.aerialistmovie.com/ ). The high-lining is is absolutely nuts, no safety harness!!!
> (In reply to jazzyjackson)
> [...]
>
> Don't remember any base jumping in Return to Sender, perhaps your thinking of the forthcoming movie about Dean Potter called Areialist (see trailer at http://www.aerialistmovie.com/ ). The high-lining is is absolutely nuts, no safety harness!!!
Am I thinking of Front Range Freaks? MM, got me wondering now. Def not Aerialist as I aint seen that.
Nope it was my bad, I didn't remember any BASE jumping in Return to Sender, but have just checked and it does indeed include it. Apologies for my confusion.
> (In reply to jazzyjackson)
>
> Nope it was my bad, I didn't remember any BASE jumping in Return to Sender, but have just checked and it does indeed include it. Apologies for my confusion.
ahh, what about that El Gigante jump eh! bloody amazing makes me want to take up base
> (In reply to Northern Alliance Commander)
> [...]
>
> Power screams are very Zen dude. He is focusing his Mojo.
> I have emulated his technique on many 5a's to great affect.
I used to have a Mojo. Never used it much so I sold it on eBay.
Totally agree with the positive comments above. This is a superb collection of climbing films that cover a massive variety of styles and settings. I think the most noticeable difference between this and some other films was that the outcome of many of the shorts was uncertain - much of the climbing is onsight. This brought an extra element to the more gripping sections, of which there are many!
The camera work and editing are first rate, which is what you would probably expect from this experienced production crew, and this makes it very involving for the viewer. Considering the short amount of time for each short, it was surprising to find that they had largely managed to include a human element without sacrificing on the action - humour, voiceover's and cut scene's have all been used to great effect.
This is definitely one of the most entertaining climbing films I have seen recently. I would even add that it would probably be reasonably watchable for many non-climbers. The "shorts" format probably helps this, as there is no particular focus and you don't feel like you have to watch all of them. Obviously, it doesn't have the visual impact of King Lines and Dosage 4, but it does do a fantastic job as an expose of the wonderful opportunities our island has to offer.
In reply to orge:
I've just finished watching Hard XS and I loved it too. It's the uncertainty of outcome that makes it so special. Hard Grit was classic but if you had read the mags at the time you usually knew the outcome. The best adventures since Alun Hughes' Gogarth (and much better quality). Must have a look at Great White Fright some time.
> (In reply to Tom Ripley)
>
> Get yourself a copy of November too - iconic along with Hard Grit. It's a comic book - if you can find a copy - about Sheffield climbers, a grit arete, life, love and squirel shit tasting power bars
I think you can still get it from Vertebrate Graphics. I have always wondered, do you think the arete at the end is meant to be Reservoir Dogs?
Highpeak27 Dec 2007
Please could someone let me know where i can order return2sender and hardxs, i only found US websites which i guess would be selling different format dvds.... many thanks, roger
In reply to rogernaylor: Hi Roger, I've just ordered Hard XS from Crag X (www.cragx.com/shop). These guys process orders really fast and are super friendly.
Return2Sender is a Posting Productions film so you be able to buy it from their website.
Sam L27 Dec 2007
In reply to Tom Briggs: Watched it yesterday, was really really good-I've got to get down to the Exmoor coast-looks amazing!
Sam
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> Or you could support the people that actually made the film and buy it from,
>
> http://www.slackjaw.co.uk/
Direct is good (I apologise for missing them out of the above list) and as I write I am actually editing an article by Rich from Slackjaw about the making of HardXS.
No need to worry Mick, my last gear investment of nearly 200 pounds went to V12 and the nxt one of just over 100 pounds is goin to Mr Joe Brown soon. Big Up Big Up Big Up
A Film by Some Climbers, tops all on that list, doesn't get anymore hardcore, 10 000 maniacs at millstone.........
Ackbar06 Jan 2008
In reply to Tom Briggs: Really disappointed with Hard XS. The story was good and the climbs and climbers were all excellent but the camera work was awful. For example, on the Pearson bit, they never once showed any of the routes, it was all just close ups. Terrible. Having said that, Hard XS has something that recent films didn't. Committed was about climbs, psyche was about climbers but Hard XS was about climbing which is much more relevant to most people.
I think the interesting thing about this thread is that people are quick to judge climbing films. The climbing films made in the UK are done on a very limited budget.
So for all the "the camera works a bit dodgy", or "I don't like the camera gimmickary", the simple truth of the matter is that if these guys didn't put in constantly good efforts year in and year out, then there wouldn't be any climbing films.
If you think you could do better then please send me a copy when you finish it...
Removed User06 Jan 2008
In reply to Tristan Johnson: As much as I agree with you sentiments Tristan, I hardly think this precludes critique of a work?
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