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Easy mountains to solo

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Wondered if anyone could recommend any easy, solo-able mountains in the Chamonix area? Will be in the area on family holiday but may be able to get out for the odd day. Nothing too big or too serious!
 martin riddell 01 May 2008
In reply to Willy:

Mont Blanc du Tacul - first cable car in the morning up to midi station, crampons and walking axe required, back in time for cable car down to meet up with wife and five a-side team for tea.

Really need to get that book over to you of "family" walks.
 JLS 01 May 2008
In reply to martin riddell:

>"crampons and walking axe required"

...and your anti-bad-luck-cravasse-avoidance underpants!

Some people just aren't as naturally lucky as you.
 martin riddell 01 May 2008
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to martin riddell)
>
> >"crampons and walking axe required"
>
> ...and your anti-bad-luck-cravasse-avoidance underpants!
>
> Some people just aren't as naturally lucky as you.

think he will be fine
In reply to Willy: Aiguilles Crochues (sp?) in the Aig.s Noires is a nice scrambling ridge traverse, maybe with the odd pitch or two of diff. Reasonable rock, probably unlikely to be crowded, and no crevasses. Good day out. Maybe take a rope and some tat to ab bits on the descent (I can't remember for sure if you need to)

OK it's an obvious choice and unbelievably busy, but it fits your bill: On the big side of the valley, Petite Aiguille Verte. First cable car up (or better, bivvy up there somewhere and get going before the hordes arrive) pop up and back down the normal route which is a nice little bit of snowy ridge at about PD. The one thing that might put me off doing that is crevasses - there are some as I discovered when soloing it a few years ago. Stick to the well-trodden line on a cold morning and I expect it'll be OK, though I'd add a disclaimer to that.
 erikb56 01 May 2008
In reply to martin riddell:
hmm. probably would be and it is easy but is a fairly serious slope with avalanche risk and crevasses.

how about the aiguille de l'm.
 JLS 01 May 2008
In reply to martin riddell:

>"think he will be fine"

The cravasses only need to get lucky once.
 martin riddell 01 May 2008
In reply to JLS:

with the amount of people who climb it every day there is a clearly defined path to follow

people also get knocked over crossing the road everyday - do you hold hands with someone to cross the road or do you asses the risk and go for it solo if you feel it is safe to cross ?
 IanJackson 01 May 2008
In reply to Willy: Glacier travel is the obvious objective danger in any planned solo on the Massive.

Sticking to popular routes, you can follow others up and down. for example Mount Blanc trade routes. The time of year helps too, later in the season the glaciers become more dry, and the crevasses more visible.

with this in mind theres a hole mountain range to be climbed, use your imagination / read a guide book!
In reply to erikb56: Is there an easy route up that? I only remember the steep side, but I guess we got down in a different direction...
 schloosh 01 May 2008
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to martin riddell)
>
> >"think he will be fine"
>
> The cravasses only need to get lucky once.

cravasses -- are they like big prawns?
 JLS 01 May 2008
In reply to martin riddell:

>"do you asses the risk and go for it solo"

Did you really assess the risks?

Soloing across a wet glacier appears more like ignoring the risks to me.

If hidden crevasses were noisy and painted red I might have been able to see where your crossing the road analogy was coming from.
 JLS 01 May 2008
In reply to schloosh:

Dam u speling natzeez!
cahotic 01 May 2008
In reply to Willy:

The ridge walking on the other side of the valley (Brevent/Flagere) side is fantastic.

Matt
 David Rose 01 May 2008
In reply to Willy: To avoid crevasse danger, you could descend the Cosmiques ridge from the Midi, abseiling where necessary, then climb it again.
 Bruce Hooker 01 May 2008
In reply to martin riddell:
>
> think he will be fine

Perhaps he will, but every year there are accidents on this route, sometimes the bergshrund is quite tricky... and as he won't be acclimatised....?

The Petite Aiguille Verte is a lot of cash for a little pimple on a ridge... why not try the Aiguille de Moine from the Couvercle hut? The S face is an easy scramble up and down and there is no glacier. It is usually used as the descent route unroped, ... splendid views of Mont Blanc, the Verte, Grandes Jorasses.

Having said that there was someone who posted here a while ago whose son had been killed after a fall on this route, which proves that nothing is totally safe.

The M is easy either by the N E ridge (any tricky bits can be escaped on the left) or by the descent route up the back... but even more than the Petit A V it is a bit of a pimple on a ridge.

The Aiguille du Goûter is nearly 4000m and doable solo but as it has a hut on the top and is very crowded it is not that satisfactory... nice views though.

Another possibility would be to go up to the Lac Blanc on the Aiguilles Rouges side of the valley and scrmble up to the ridge behind... superb views of the Mont Blanc massif, but not such interesting climbing as the Moine.
 niggle 01 May 2008
In reply to Bruce Hooker:

> The Petite Aiguille Verte is a lot of cash for a little pimple on a ridge... why not try the Aiguille de Moine from the Couvercle hut? The S face is an easy scramble up and down and there is no glacier.

Well, no glacier except for the biggest glacier in France, the Mer de Glace, which he'd probably have to walk up from Montenvers to get to the ladders up to the hut!
In reply to Willy: If the lower bit of the Mer de Glace is dry then another thing you might consider is the first bit of the Flammes de Pierre ridge leading towards the Dru. Doesn't get you to a proper summit (well, not unless you're braver than me) but it's nice blocky scrambling in a fantastic location and when you've had enough you just go back down the same way
 Green Porridge 01 May 2008
In reply to niggle:

Yes, but that bit of the gracier is dry - My mate and I strolled up it unroped and in shorts to get to the ladders, and then, if I recall correctly, there is no glacier between you and the hut. a couple of points of note:

a) I dont have my map here, so I dont know which one the Moine is, but a lot of those peaks involve a bit of crossing the glacier above the cuvercule hut - when we did it it was really quite crevasse-ridden.

b) Whilst the ladders are perfectly solo-able (we did), they can be quite exciting

Tim
 David Rose 01 May 2008
In reply to Willy: If you're on a family holiday you won't be popular if you spend a night away, which is going to limit you a lot, and if you're late on a route, you'll freak everyone out. Why not just take everyone for a nice walk (the Aigs Rouges or the Grand Balcon) and make a separate climbing trip - with a mate - another time?
 niggle 01 May 2008
In reply to Green Porridge:

Yeah, i know the route.

I think you're right about the small glacier on the moine too, the common route we saw took climbers across it for sure. If you go left of the hut and start further down the ridge you can avoid it but unless he's comfortable soloing at least VS at altitude I honestly wouldn't recommend that way.
 Bruce Hooker 01 May 2008
In reply to niggle:

In the summer the way up to the Couvercle and The Requin, and most huts on th French side are across dry glacier so no one ropes up. There is (or at least has been) a higher path on the right bank (looking down) of the Mer de Glace, but I've never bothered with it... I'm not sure if it is usable at present. The climb up the ladders to the Couvercle are usually easy enough (if they are damaged it will be indicated on the OHM site), no worse than going down from Montenvers to the Mer de Glace or getting down the Argentière glacier. I assumed that anyone asking about soloing in the Alps was reasonably competent.

The Moine is the first triangular pyramid on the ridge coming down from the Aiguille Verte. Some of the other peaks on the ridge (the Eveque, the Cardinal or the Nonne) involve a bit of easy glacier work but not the S face of the Moine. I have done this all unroped (the M and the Goûter too) or I wouldn't have suggested them, which doesn't mean checking them out in the guide book is not required, of course.

Looking at the names of the Moine ridge of the Verte it looks like it could be a good one to do for a man of your confession Niggle Knocking off a nun, a monk, a cardinal and a bishop would be something to write home about.
 Joe G 01 May 2008
In reply to Willy:

Domes de Miage might be worth a look, I did it by going up the Glacier and back along the ridge, but if you went along the ridge and back the same way there wouldn't be as much crevasse risk. Lovely ridge and views.
 LakesWinter 01 May 2008
In reply to Joe G: That's probably the most sensible suggestion of all of them, not much loose rock/stonefall risk either and it is a good one.
 Bruce Hooker 01 May 2008
In reply to MattG:

Would you describe this as easy? I'd have said it was a fairly serious undertaking all alone, given the length and the alitude... going along the glacier unroped would certainly put it beyond a sensible proposition.
In reply to Willy:
> Wondered if anyone could recommend any easy, solo-able mountains in the Chamonix area? Will be in the area on family holiday but may be able to get out for the odd day. Nothing too big or too serious!

If you're willing to take the bus across the Mt. Blanc Tunnel, and if you’ve two full days available, a good tarrget for a family outing may be Petit Mt. Blanc (3420m), a summit on the Italian side of the range that may be seen see here.

http://www.vdaoutdoor.it/giteesc/pmblanc/pmb_01.jpg

It has several advantages over some better know “entry level” climbing targets, like

- Little technical difficulty but some terrain variety
- No objective danger (in good weather and without too much snow)
- It’s a “real” alpine summit (no lift to get there, normally climbed in two days)
- Outstanding view on the Miage wall of Mt. Blanc, the least know and seen of all MB sides
- Plenty of chances to observe wildlife near the Rainetto bivy hut

here's a 360° panorama from the summit

http://www.vdaoutdoor.it/giteesc/pmblanc/pmb_p3.jpg

This is a mountain better climbed outside weekends, as it’s rather popular with the Courmayeur crowd.

A good strategy it if you’re with children may be

First day:

- Take the morning bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur

- In Courmayeur take the bus to Val Veny -> Plan Lognan (the bus stop is near the Chamonix – Courmayeur one)

- In Plan Lognan, you walk for one hour along the (closed) road to Lac Combal.

- From Lac Combal (small bar there), you take the trail marked “Bivacco Rainetto / Giovane Montagna”, that in three hours will take you to that bivy hut (3016m). No warden, room for 8 people, with blankets and mattress, but little else. Water nearby, below the hut.

Second day:
- Wake up a bit before sunrise, and enjoy the show. It’s one of the best places in the range to see the day begin

- Simply walk the big and easy snow ridge above the hut, until your reach summit (rocks) a bit of easy scrambling there). One hour from the hut.

- The walk back to Plan Lognan takes around four to five hours.

Gear needed: rope, crampons, axe (the classic type) and little else.
 martin riddell 02 May 2008
In reply to Willy:

Have posted some stuff off to you - should be there when you get back from Skye
In reply to martin riddell: Cheers Martin. Thanks for advice. Sorry you got some stick. Thanks to all for the advice!
 LakesWinter 06 May 2008
In reply to Bruce Hooker: I would only solo it via the aiguille de berangere on a there and back trip, I'd not go up the tre la tete glacier unroped coz it is generally pretty crevassed in my experience
 Solaris 06 May 2008
In reply to Bruce Hooker:
> (In reply to martin riddell)
> [...]
> Why not try the Aiguille de Moine from the Couvercle hut? The S face is an easy scramble up and down and there is no glacier. It is usually used as the descent route unroped, ... splendid views of Mont Blanc, the Verte, Grandes Jorasses.
>
> Having said that there was someone who posted here a while ago whose son had been killed after a fall on this route, which proves that nothing is totally safe.
>

The Moine presents notorious route finding problems in both ascent and descent and is subject to frequent rock fall from other descending parties, so I wouldn't recommend it. Also, in mid-August a couple of years ago, the neve beneath the route had retreated a good number of metres leaving a very tricky pitch on rock glazed with verglas/streaming with water above the "schrund". Something I would definitely not want to solo! If the OP does attempt it, a rope would be necessary for the descent back onto the neve.

> Another possibility would be to go up to the Lac Blanc on the Aiguilles Rouges side of the valley and scrmble up to the ridge behind...

Agreed! The Belvedere (perhaps this is the ridge you mean?) is not mentioned in any guidebooks I've seen in the UK but is a super little peak with one short pitch of French II/III. It's easier than the traverse of the Crochue and is described in one of the French compilation books available in Cham in English translation. Typically good views N and S from the summit.

From the Italian side of the valley and in addition to Luca's excellent suggestion, the Aiguille du Toule's SE flank is very straightforward, can be done easily in an afternoon from the Helbronner station, and offers excellent views of the Brenva face of Mt Blanc, the Dent due Geant etc. and across the Vallee Blanche to the Aiguilles. Some slight crevasse risk.
Juki 06 May 2008
In reply to Willy:
I know this is not an alpine route to the summit but it's a very nice day trip with great views and requires some physical effort. And perfectly doable without a partner. Balcon de la Mer de Glace.

It starts from the Montenvers and goes to the Couvercle hut. You walk above the right bank of the Mer de Glace and return through the Mer de Glace. The glacier is dry during the summer so there's no need to use ropes or axes but crampons are useful.

Few random pictures from the route:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hukkis/sets/72157604915572602/

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