In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Talking to Malc a while back he said it was 8b+ when he did it (back in the day...) but now 8c/8c+ after the holds fell off.
On waking up? that's nothing :0) I injured my shoulder in my sleep a few weeks ago. My other lame injuries have included - when playing snooker, and when doing salsa.