UKC

hi i was planing on doing this tomorrow but its been wet all day but it looks like it might stop raining an 7 ish in the morning. how quick is the route to dry? whats it like in the wet? the cruz chimney in particular. Im solid at HS craging, and done grooved areate with relitive ease recently.

thanks for the advice

In reply to laurencehicks:

It's a trad mountain type route. It should be fine. The pinnacle rib routes maybe a bit easier if you fancy another option.

In reply to laurencehicks:

I'd say it's pretty full-on for VDiff, particularly the chimney. If you're solid at HS you should be fine however. Seem to remember if being damp when I did it and it was OK.

In reply to laurencehicks:

Is that the one that finished with Thompson's Chimney? If so, that pitch would potentially be a pig in the wet. Easilly avoided by going round though.

In reply to laurencehicks:
It was raining when I did it, and at the time I'd not led anything much above HS.

In reply to Different Steve:

I dismally failed to second the chimney as a "solid HS leader" and ended up prusicking; maybe the fact I was too fat to get into it didn't help! As they say, a fairly full-on VDiff at the crux but the hard bit of the chimney is quite short and the rest is very nice, if polished, climbing.

In reply to Clinger: Thomson's Chimney is the optional finish to First Pinnacle Rib - bit of a pig when iced over (I should know, I fell off it soloing!). Gashed Crag should be ok in the damp, though that first chimney could be fun

In reply to laurencehicks:

The chimney is dead easy if you just stay outside it and use the little crimps on the wall. If you start going all 'traditional' with it I imagine it could be tricky when wet.

In reply to Marc C:

I stand corrected then. Thanks for clearing it up

In reply to laurencehicks:
it's a trad climb. conditions are perfect for a route such as this. a little moistness will make ascent so much more memorable. i do wish people would stop thinking that rock can only be climbed in the dry....

In reply to Dom Whillans: Did it once in pouring rain, having traversed in from the start of Munich Climb (above the chimney, thank god). Felt about severe, but still enjoyable. Fell off at one point and crashed onto a ledge. Decided to stay there and put in a belay.

In reply to Alex C: see everyone? proper climbing. sounds like a grand day out

In reply to Dom Whillans: Well for memorableness and epic status, nothing beats a wet day on a mountain route - oh god, it's all coming back to me now...Great Gully (falling off that bloody chimney pitch in howling wind and rain, getting lost at the top in the mist and eventually getting back to the car looking like a hypothermic drowned rat), Outside Edge Route (with sheets of water pouring down the wall), soloing up a route on Lliwedd (don't ask me the name, cos I don't know!) and having an epic in some greasy groove, 500ft up, with my tweed jacket caught on a knobble)...Such fun

In reply to Marc C:

You ad it easy, we did soap gut in the dark wearing nailed boots that we scraped on the rock to get a spark to see with. The candle wax in the brim of our hats ran off down our noses to make the holds slippery, and although it warned our hands as it ran over them, having a hand encased in wax makes climbing a bit harder.

In reply to sutty: Always knew you'd end up in Madame Tussauds

PS I fell off Soap Gut - bloody slime!