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Hero's of winter climbing

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 The brainn 16 Jan 2009
Most if not all of off us who climb in the rugged Scottish Highlands have got someone who inspired them. Dr T.W.Patey was one of my earliest inspirations. I've always wondered what happened to his so called black book, it was said that Dr Tom had a book of possible new routes, secret cliffs, potential venues and only if you was lucky he shared some of the information with you.
Sadly the Doc died after an accident on a sea stack many years ago now.
Anytime I climb in Lochnagar I remind myself of what it must have been like back in the 50's when the race was on to climb many distinct features. I'm bored and got wondering who inspired you?????
 Only a hill 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
Raeburn. Had an eye for inspiring lines, that man!
 matthewjc 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Robin Smith, especially after reading the recent biography, what it must have been like back then.

Im Just looking at the photo of a Lindsay Griffin on Smith's route in Kimbers guide in awe.

..one day...
Ian Black 16 Jan 2009
In reply to matthewjc: Aye, Roabin was a talent, but the Maister was up there.
 Wibble Wibble 16 Jan 2009
In reply to Only a hill:

I second Raeburn (though I probably couldn't second him!). Green Gully in 1906. Simply inspirational - well that's what I thought as I puntered my way up it with all the help modern technology could offer.
OP The brainn 16 Jan 2009
In reply to Wibble Wibble: Robin Smith and Marshall that legendary week on the Ben. Cutting steps up Orion face and Smiths own route. I wonder if there routes were not repeated till the advent of front pointing, Twa axes, makes me wonder.

There is a picture in Cold climbs of Allan Fyffe and Macartney cutting steps on Creag Meggie awesome.
No wonder Ice climbing was less popular.
Vip1r 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: I'll have to agree with you about that. Smiths and Orion are fantastic routes, so much fun to do and what a commitment it must of been to have done them back then...

and to think there are those these days that consider themselves "gnarly"!
Vip1r 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: I'll have to agree with you about that. Smiths and Orion are fantastic routes, so much fun to do and what a commitment it must of been to have done them back then...

and to think there are those these days that consider themselves "gnarly"!
 DougG 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

> I wonder if there routes were not repeated till the advent of front pointing, Twa axes, makes me wonder.

I'm fairly sure that the first people on Orion Face after Smith and Marshall were Norrie Muir and (I think) Stevie Docherty.
In reply to The brainn:

what about mr. nesbet?

ok the equipment wasn't as basic but the lines are much harder and some if not most are more remote than lochnagar or carn echachan.

there's so many 'heroes' out there, yeah smith must be one of them. but you're over looking jimmy marshall, dougal haston, hamish, simon richardson and mick fowler, these guys are all pioneers in my eyes. but there's one who stand out as a true pioneer, and thats andy nesbit.

rs.

 deepsoup 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
Hero's what?
 rusty_nails 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Joe simpson from his 'Touching the void' film

Andy Kirkpatrick from his website, standup routines, and psychovertical book.

Have not had the luxury of reading many of the classics.
 DougG 16 Jan 2009
In reply to mulletcocktail2000:

Nisbet!
In reply to DougG:

yeah. take it you don't agree?

who's pioneered modern mixed climbing from the beginning?

put up more grade v route in scotland than anyone else?
Anonymous 16 Jan 2009
In reply to deepsoup:
>
> Hero's what?

Stop that. Stop that right now..

CJ.
 DougG 16 Jan 2009
In reply to mulletcocktail2000:

> yeah. take it you don't agree?

I'd say Andy Nisbet's name should be right up there with the rest of them, I'm just correcting your spelling - it's Nisbet, not Nesbit.
 Toby S 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

IainRUK! :0)

Sorry Iain, couldn't resist after the 'Thank you' thread!
In reply to DougG:

easily done
Simon05 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Another vote for Andy. Spent a week climbing with him over new year 2001. What a week, 2 new routes and poachers fall, amazing. This guys zest and enthusiasm for scottish winter climbing is second to none. A true inspiration.
OP The brainn 16 Jan 2009
In reply to rusty_nailsid I not hear somewhere that Bear Ghylls wants a square go with Andy(solovertical)kipperpatrick?

Anyway Nisbet is a living legend people will talk about the Red Bearded Aberdoinian for eternity.
Anonymous 16 Jan 2009

Hamish, of course.

Alex MacIntyre

Mal Duff.

CJ.
In reply to The brainn:

Bear Ghylls? couldn't fight his way out a wet paper bag...with a knife!
 DougG 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Norrie Muir shouldn't be forgotten. Or Arthur Paul.
 bigbobbyking 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

I found great inspiration in the writings of Bill Murray. While he may not have made such a contribution to winter climbing as some of the others people have mentioned (although I'm not really qualified to comment on how significant his ascents were) he writes about the early days in a mesmerizing way that never fails to make me want to go climbing.

 bigbobbyking 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

p.s. I feel this thread has been slightly hi-jacked. The OP asked who inspired you not who made the biggest contribution to winter climbing. Although of course maybe these are the same things to some people.
 dek 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
Arthur Paul
M Fowler
Norrie
Cubby
Rab Anderson
Dinwoddie
Strange
Bower
B Brooker
M Hamilton
J Marshall
McInnes
A Nisbet
Lang + Quinn
Stead+Crocket

Christ there are dozens!!

In reply to DougG:
> (In reply to The brainn)
>
> Norrie Muir shouldn't be forgotten.

yeah for what? his solo attempt on coffin corner at dunkeld?
 Toby S 16 Jan 2009
In reply to mulletcocktail2000:

Have a wee look at the SMC Ben Nevis guide for starters.
OP The brainn 16 Jan 2009
In reply to DougG:Please don't misunderstand me, this was just a thread to say who inspired me. Im not for one second trying to say he's better than him or what about her Alison Hardgreaves.

I'm reading Physcovertical and thank's Andy you have me writing or should I say typing. Whatever your thoughts me be on Andy Kipperpatrick(people in a glasshouse should not throw stones)you have got to salute the guy for putting himself so upfront.

Andy Kirkpatrick if you want to climb on Lochnagar email me.
 DougG 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Me neither, I'm not saying who's better than who, I'm just saying that hearing (first-hand) about Norrie's first ascent of Psychedelic Wall (for example) made the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.
OP The brainn 16 Jan 2009
In reply to DougG: The first accent of Route Two Ben Nevis by Mick Geddes and Al Rouse may they Rest in Peace is a great tale. Both of them where idolised by myself but I can go on and on. Anyone who is brave enough to climb mountains in conditions that require axes and crampons for any period of time makes me think I understand!
 abr1966 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: As a youth it was WH Murray for me but later on it was Marshall, Rouse, ETC. I've seen numerous "unknown" climbers on routes in some awful conditions over the years though and been inspired by lots.
 abr1966 16 Jan 2009
In reply to DougG:
> (In reply to The brainn)
>
> Norrie Muir shouldn't be forgotten. Or Arthur Paul.

As a point of interest....what happened to Norrie, did he ever come back on here after being banned?
OP The brainn 16 Jan 2009
In reply to abr1966: I'm a new member(wow!!) so do not know history of UKC was someone banned? and for what? how can they ban someone from using a pseudonym??
 cmcteir 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Is no one biting?

Talk about 'he who must not be named'
In reply to The brainn:

i think he was banned for being a right tw*t to people who were after genuine information.

apparently he was/is a good mountaineer (soloed centurion), but has a shoite personality. i've heard a couple of stories about him. getting stuck iup coffin corner at dunkeld and pissing in a lassies handbag at the clachaig, so he didn't loose his seat! classy...
 cmcteir 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Not much but: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norrie_Muir

Liked to dish it out but didn't like it back, and resorted to posting pictures of ar**s as an unsubtle retort.
OP The brainn 16 Jan 2009
In reply to cmcteir:
> (In reply to The brainn) Not much but: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norrie_Muir
>
> Liked to dish it out but didn't like it back, and resorted to posting pictures of ar**s as an unsubtle retort.

Cheer's I can imagine lol!!
 Pids 16 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Not sure why he was banned, but he had the usual Scottish sense of humour, took the piss relentlessly but gave credit / compliments to those who earned it. I guess a lot of people could not see this.

One of the few people worth listening to on here.
 cmcteir 16 Jan 2009
In reply to Pids:
> >
> One of the few people worth listening to on here.

I would second that

 Wee Davie 16 Jan 2009
In reply to Pids:

The winter forums are definitely less entertaining without him. He noised up nearly every kent (including me) but at least you could rely on him to provide a quality powering to those who deserved it. There's nobody here with the posting stamina to do what he did.
 DougG 16 Jan 2009
In reply to mulletcocktail2000:

> apparently he was/is a good mountaineer (soloed centurion)

There's no "apparently" about it.

> , but has a shoite personality. i've heard a couple of stories about him

And you usually judge folk from second-hand accounts do you?
 alasdair19 16 Jan 2009
Andy n, alan mullin, martin moran for scot winter mountains

That and the previous edition of scot winter climbs were my bible for a while
 fishy1 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Mal Duff, Toni Kurz, and Dave Macleod.

 alan wilson 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: The inspiration was always provided by reading of the exploits by Patey, MacInnes, Marshall, Haston, Smith and even Clough. Those tales spurred many people to get up into the hills and see what it was all about. There are certainly more contemporary climbers out there who continue in those footsteps, but I do find that certain folk are too keen to blow their own trumpets now, made easier by the web of course. Skilled though they may be, I do not find inspiration there.
 rusty_nails 17 Jan 2009
In reply to mulletcocktail2000:
> (In reply to The brainn)
>
> i think he was banned for being a right tw*t to people who were after genuine information.
>
> apparently he was/is a good mountaineer (soloed centurion), but has a shoite personality. i've heard a couple of stories about him. getting stuck iup coffin corner at dunkeld and pissing in a lassies handbag at the clachaig, so he didn't loose his seat! classy...

He was a grumpy bugger on here sometimes, but always had something interesting and useful to say on any subject. I miss him on here.
 t_stork 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Why not recent climbers such as Nisbet, Parnell, Macleod, Robertson?
OP The brainn 17 Jan 2009
In reply to t_stork:
> (In reply to The brainn) Why not recent climbers such as Nisbet, Parnell, Macleod, Robertson?

Nobody is stopping you starting your own thread. Nisbet stands head and shoulders above Parnell? Robertson and Macleod. Macleod who is a really impressive climber and who I've heard is a really nice guy. But regards insperation I'd say Cubby before Macleod.

Anyway everyone has different people who inspire them. I'm not wanting to offend anyone. On a earlier thread I mentioned that I don't want to describe anyone as being better than anyone else all I asked was who inspired you?
 t_stork 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: wohhhh neither was i trying to offend anyone else, i was just adding a few more names to the thread.
 t_stork 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: oh and martin moran, another top climber
OP The brainn 17 Jan 2009
In reply to t_stork:
> (In reply to The brainn) oh and martin moran, another top climber

Cool. Remember attending a lecture that featured Martin Moran he seemed a really nice guy. He's on a different planet from me though or I'm on a different planet from him.
 frost 17 Jan 2009
In reply to t_stork:
Andrej Stremfelj
Jerzy Kukuczka
Pierre Beghin
Christophe Profit
Voytek Kurtyka

all on another level
 simon_D 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
For me it was Mal Duff, Sandy Allan and Andrew Grieg's wry and honest account of a Scottish nae-frills expedition in the Himalaya's, starting off things in the then epicentre of Scottish winter climbing - Glen Coe (a wilder, colder and more reliable ice venue in those days). What an awesome experience to have known and climbed with those guys...
In reply to The brainn:

Erik Brunskill

Stuart
Iandavid 17 Jan 2009
W.H Murray, need I say more
 skittles 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Nisbet is a legend! and when that brilliant ginger beard freezes over, just wow, i'm surprised if he didn't ever use it as a 3rd ice axe lol. I did my 1st winter lead with him on The Runnel in Jan 07 and our freshers are going out with him again this year, i think his name and his beard will go down in our club's history for ever.
Removed User 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Personally:

Yvon Chouinard (only from his books)
Ian Nicolson
Mal Duff
Guy Robertson


As far as who the deserving big names are rather than ones' personal 'heroes', it's a long long list. So far, unless I missed it, Colin MacLean hasn't had a mention. He should be near the top of the list.


Norrie is very conspicuously absent now the winter threads are taking off. I never saw anything from him on here but good advice and encouragement to people looking for it, and sly digs at precious nobs who couldn't take a joke. There are a lot of whingers on here who should grow a sense of humour and emerge from their own arseholes.
 hwackerhage 17 Jan 2009
Plenty of heros from the past that should be listed plus plenty of present heros that should be known rather than listed.

For me the main generations of heroes are:
- Those that started it all with very poor gear, no guidebooks and often after a mad journey to the bottom of a route.
- The generation that boldly did all the classics.
- The generation that discovered and developed the technique for hard mixed.
- The current generation that learned from the bolted mixed climbers across the Atlantic and applies it to do even harder trad Scottish mixed...

...and those that take the Scottish style abroad to the greater ranges.
 Andy Nisbet 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:

Sonya here on Andy's pc.

This is a hard one. I don't tend to find other climbers hero's but I do look at some other climbers and think wow.

I better mention Andy Nisbet of course, or I'll be in trouble

But also, Mick Fowler is someone I've always found inspirational.
OP The brainn 17 Jan 2009
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Removed UserThe brainn)
>
> Personally:
>
> Yvon Chouinard (only from his books)
> Ian Nicolson
> Mal Duff
> Guy Robertson
>
>
> As far as who the deserving big names are rather than ones' personal 'heroes', it's a long long list. So far, unless I missed it, Colin MacLean hasn't had a mention. He should be near the top of the list.
>
>
> Norrie is very conspicuously absent now the winter threads are taking off. I never saw anything from him on here but good advice and encouragement to people looking for it, and sly digs at precious nobs who couldn't take a joke. There are a lot of whingers on here who should grow a sense of humour and emerge from their own arseholes.

I agree!!!!!!!!!!
OP The brainn 17 Jan 2009
In reply to Andy Nisbet: Was having a crack in a climbing shop in Aberdeen when Colin Maclean came in and offered his winter climbing gear for sale.

I thought to myself" I wonder if I should buy his axes" unfortunantly I was skint(story of my life), I held his axes in my hand and wondered what it would have been like biving below Steeple corner.
KA 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
HEROES of winter climbing per chance?
You are looking for more than 1, I assume?
Hero's of winter climbing - what's the apostrophe up to?
TWR 17 Jan 2009
In reply to DougG:

> I'm fairly sure that the first people on Orion Face after Smith and Marshall were Norrie Muir and (I think) Stevie Docherty.

I'm fairly sure your wrong, unless they didn't get up it.

Al Rouse and Mick Gegges repeated it in a round trip, hitching, from Cambridge.

Gegges inspires me, so does Smith.

More rescently Guy Robertson and Pete Benson's new route, The God Delisusion, is beyone inspirational.
 yer maw 17 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Moran for me. His book was a bible for me. His stories, routes, approach etc are what Scottish winter climbing is all about. Then I remembered reading the Climber & Hillwalker with Fowler's account of Central Gully on Beinn Eighe (I think) so lapped up everything written by him ever since.

Mr Andy Nisbet is of course the unassuming daddy of them all though.

If I could climb harder then I'd have had the ambition to have done all of Robin Smith's classic rock routes.

It's as much about the inspiring routes as the person behind them to put them up in the first place.
 petestack 17 Jan 2009
In reply to TWR:
> Mick Gegges
>
> Gegges inspires me, so does Smith.

You're inspired by a climber whose name you've got wrong twice in one post?

OP The brainn 17 Jan 2009
In reply to yer maw:
> (In reply to The brainn) Moran for me. His book was a bible for me. His stories, routes, approach etc are what Scottish winter climbing is all about. Then I remembered reading the Climber & Hillwalker with Fowler's account of Central Gully on Beinn Eighe (I think) so lapped up everything written by him ever since.
>
> Mr Andy Nisbet is of course the unassuming daddy of them all though.
>
> If I could climb harder then I'd have had the ambition to have done all of Robin Smith's classic rock routes.
>
> It's as much about the inspiring routes as the person behind them to put them up in the first place.

West Central gully.
TWR 17 Jan 2009
In reply to petestack:

> You're inspired by a climber whose name you've got wrong twice in one post?

Opps! - Gedges?!
 petestack 17 Jan 2009
In reply to TWR:

Geddes
 DougG 23 Jan 2009
In reply to TWR:

>> I'm fairly sure that the first people on Orion Face after Smith and Marshall were Norrie Muir and (I think) Stevie Docherty.

> I'm fairly sure your wrong, unless they didn't get up it.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=95176&v=1#x1287743
 cityslicker 23 Jan 2009
WH Murray and Mick Fowler for me. Holding down a job in London and driving North every weekend to climb hard new routes is pretty inspirational. WH Murray for getting me into climbing.
Barber Baz 23 Jan 2009
aside from the household names, my heroes are folk who get out every chance and get stuck in, normal punters and friends of mine who drive a long distance, push themselves and are still smiling at the end of it, already plotting their next route.
KateR 26 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
I've not been on here for years (kids, living overseas, friends carking it.....)

What the hell did Norrie do to get barred? he always made me PMSL!

Who was that winter climber that was 'the next big thing' around 2004? Ex-army bloke, hated summer expoits, rubbed everyone up the wrong way. From Aberdeen I think.

Glad to see Erik is still alive. Is he still having to shag the dross from Clatty Pats?
oui oui 26 Jan 2009
In reply to KateR:
> (In reply to The brainn)
>
> Who was that winter climber that was 'the next big thing' around 2004? Ex-army bloke, hated summer expoits, rubbed everyone up the wrong way. From Aberdeen I think.
>

0/10
KateR 26 Jan 2009
In reply to oui oui:
no, no - I'm only trying to remember his name. My hero was Andy Nisbet. Top bloke
 tony 26 Jan 2009
In reply to KateR:
> (In reply to oui oui)
> no, no - I'm only trying to remember his name.

Alan Mullin. Sadly committed suicide in prison in 2007.
 MadProfessor 26 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn:
I agree with biped about Ian Nicholson. His solo ascents of Point Five and Zero Gullies one wintry morning in 72 (or 73) then down to the Fort in time for a lunchtime pint blew some of the mythological reputation of the routes away bearing in mind that at the time neither had had more than a few (just in double figures??) ascents, and were scary 'tours de force' (the first ascent oif POint 5 took 5 days, for f***'s sake!). Fo this alon he deseres to be in any Scottish Winter Heroes' Hall of Fame - he didlost else, mind.
 bigbenb 26 Jan 2009
In reply to The brainn: Bathgate, McInnes and Nicholson for sure...though i guess i would be biased but thier stories of good and bad and insane were enough to get me out and about!
 stonewall 26 Jan 2009
In reply to KateR:

im another who misses the norrie fella. can we have him back please ?
Removed User 26 Jan 2009
In reply to KateR:

As you hadn't heard, this is the thread from when the news broke on here.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=232322

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