This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Any one out there who works in the building industry, or has had an extension built recently? We have a standard three-bed semi, with a one-car garage next to it, a four foot wide strip of land between the two. I'm wanting a ball park figure for how much it'd cost to replace the garage with a building that joins onto the house and that has a ground floor and a first floor and a roof that fits in with the existing house roof (ie not a flat roof).
ie I want a room on top of the garage, joined onto the house, and I'm assuming that the garage would need to be partially demolished to achieve this. (Even if it wouldn't need partial demolition it'd definitely need the walls thickening because the garage walls are just one-brick wide.)
I'm just after a very rough idea, so that I know if it's a possibility worth pursuing or if it'd be so expensive it's just a pipe dream!
Cheers!
ie I want a room on top of the garage, joined onto the house, and I'm assuming that the garage would need to be partially demolished to achieve this. (Even if it wouldn't need partial demolition it'd definitely need the walls thickening because the garage walls are just one-brick wide.)
I'm just after a very rough idea, so that I know if it's a possibility worth pursuing or if it'd be so expensive it's just a pipe dream!
Cheers!
In reply to gingerkate:
Garage would likely need to be demolished, as the foundations and construction will not be up to an extension as you describe.
How big an extension? What would the ground floor dimensions be in metres.
Garage would likely need to be demolished, as the foundations and construction will not be up to an extension as you describe.
How big an extension? What would the ground floor dimensions be in metres.
In reply to gingerkate: We did almost exactly that a few years ago (we extended the kitchen, built in the garage and added 2 beds and a shower room) - I think the original estimate was £30k+vat, but than there was the cost of plumbing/heating/decorating/carpeting/new kitchen that probably pushed it up nearer £60k altogether.
If you're going up an extra storey you'll almost undoubtedly have to demolish the garage and put in new foundations. We had drainiage and stuff to put in too.
Sounds pricy, but pales into insignificance alongside virtually demolishing a bungalow and rebuilding it though...
If you're going up an extra storey you'll almost undoubtedly have to demolish the garage and put in new foundations. We had drainiage and stuff to put in too.
Sounds pricy, but pales into insignificance alongside virtually demolishing a bungalow and rebuilding it though...
In reply to The New NickB:
Good question. I'm not there right now so I can't measure it. I'll measure it and post again.
One of our garage walls is sort of melded into our neighbour's garage wall, would it still be possible to demolish our garage (assuming he was happy about it)?
Good question. I'm not there right now so I can't measure it. I'll measure it and post again.
One of our garage walls is sort of melded into our neighbour's garage wall, would it still be possible to demolish our garage (assuming he was happy about it)?
In reply to gingerkate:
i'm assuming you live in a semi?
the cost for building a pair of semi's would range from roughly £627-£1473 sq/m but withought any drawings or bills of quants from an architect to work from it's difficult to guesstimate. the prices i've given here are a very rough guide and the metreage is for all floors combined, i.e ground floor area plus first floor area measured from the internal skin of the wall.
HTH?
i'm assuming you live in a semi?
the cost for building a pair of semi's would range from roughly £627-£1473 sq/m but withought any drawings or bills of quants from an architect to work from it's difficult to guesstimate. the prices i've given here are a very rough guide and the metreage is for all floors combined, i.e ground floor area plus first floor area measured from the internal skin of the wall.
HTH?
In reply to andy:
Cheers andy. 30k was the figure that'd popped into my head but I had a feeling I might be seriously under-guessing. Though all I want is an extra room on top of the existing space, so I guess it'd be less than yours with your new kitchen and stuff.
Cheers andy. 30k was the figure that'd popped into my head but I had a feeling I might be seriously under-guessing. Though all I want is an extra room on top of the existing space, so I guess it'd be less than yours with your new kitchen and stuff.
In reply to gingerkate:
By the sounds of it, your garage would need to be taken down completely, so that new foundations could be laid to support the first floor.
We did something similar - two storey hipped roof extension with an additional brick-built bit at the rear - significantly bigger than the original footprint - 70-odd grand for the demolition and building work itself, plus a few grand for architect's fees, building regs, building engineer, planning etc.
However, this was in County Durham, and I suspect the same could cost a fair bit more in some other parts of the country.
The only way to genuinely find out if you can afford it is to draw it up yourself and get a few ballpark quotes from local builders. So many factors can make a difference.
By the sounds of it, your garage would need to be taken down completely, so that new foundations could be laid to support the first floor.
We did something similar - two storey hipped roof extension with an additional brick-built bit at the rear - significantly bigger than the original footprint - 70-odd grand for the demolition and building work itself, plus a few grand for architect's fees, building regs, building engineer, planning etc.
However, this was in County Durham, and I suspect the same could cost a fair bit more in some other parts of the country.
The only way to genuinely find out if you can afford it is to draw it up yourself and get a few ballpark quotes from local builders. So many factors can make a difference.
In reply to gingerkate:
yes, it's called toothing, so it can be reinstated without any noticable joints, the problem here could occur with digging the foundation for your extension, you could seriously undermine the neighbours garage foundation. i was called to a job where this had actually happened and the neighbours garage collapsed onto his very expensive car!
> (In reply to The New NickB)
> > One of our garage walls is sort of melded into our neighbour's garage wall, would it still be possible to demolish our garage (assuming he was happy about it)?
> > One of our garage walls is sort of melded into our neighbour's garage wall, would it still be possible to demolish our garage (assuming he was happy about it)?
yes, it's called toothing, so it can be reinstated without any noticable joints, the problem here could occur with digging the foundation for your extension, you could seriously undermine the neighbours garage foundation. i was called to a job where this had actually happened and the neighbours garage collapsed onto his very expensive car!
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
Eeek, didn't think of that.
I think maybe I'd better check out what my neighbour would feel about it before going further. Other houses in the street have had similar done, but they don't have the joined garages and I'd have thought planning permission would be dependent on the neighbour being happy, and anyway, I get on very well with that neighbour, don't want to gain a room and lose a friendship, that'd be pointless.
Eeek, didn't think of that.
I think maybe I'd better check out what my neighbour would feel about it before going further. Other houses in the street have had similar done, but they don't have the joined garages and I'd have thought planning permission would be dependent on the neighbour being happy, and anyway, I get on very well with that neighbour, don't want to gain a room and lose a friendship, that'd be pointless.
In reply to gingerkate:
If you have a good relationship with your neighbour, it shouldn't be a problem if discussed over a couple of bottles of wine!
You'd be required to sort out a party wall agreement for this work, and probably a bit of scribble from a structural engineer for a few hundred quid to detail how the digging out for the foundations would affect the next door garage.
If you have a good relationship with your neighbour, it shouldn't be a problem if discussed over a couple of bottles of wine!
You'd be required to sort out a party wall agreement for this work, and probably a bit of scribble from a structural engineer for a few hundred quid to detail how the digging out for the foundations would affect the next door garage.
In reply to gingerkate: I've looked into doing something very similar. About £40k springs to mind, whether that's on the basis of quotes I've received I can't remember...
In reply to gingerkate:
you could possibly get around this problem by having a steel framed structure on the ground floor, this would mean a pad foundatiom on the 2 outer corners of the building onto which 2 steel rsj's would be bolted, this could possibly be done without undermining the neighbours garage...
you could possibly get around this problem by having a steel framed structure on the ground floor, this would mean a pad foundatiom on the 2 outer corners of the building onto which 2 steel rsj's would be bolted, this could possibly be done without undermining the neighbours garage...
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
So would it be enough to draw up my own plans to get a ball park figure, or do I really need to get an architect to do it properly, to get an estimate that would be reasonably close?
So would it be enough to draw up my own plans to get a ball park figure, or do I really need to get an architect to do it properly, to get an estimate that would be reasonably close?
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
In reply to gingerkate: you could draw up a rough plan, but it would still be a rough figure, the architect would liase with an engineer to determine the foundation needed, he'd also specify the materials needed, all the materials costs can vary widely so something from an architect would be good.
In reply to Martin76:
Thing is it'd overlook his garden so he might not like it. I think checking out his feelings is definitely the first step.
Thanks wayno!
Thing is it'd overlook his garden so he might not like it. I think checking out his feelings is definitely the first step.
Thanks wayno!
In reply to gingerkate:
they'd possibly let you help but TBH they'll have their own labourer so all you'd be left with is sweeping up and cleaning the site...
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
> Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
> Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
they'd possibly let you help but TBH they'll have their own labourer so all you'd be left with is sweeping up and cleaning the site...
In reply to gingerkate:
Depends how close you need it. We drew our own which was quite OK for preliminary discussions with planning and getting ball park quotes (which were quite accurate in the end).
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
> So would it be enough to draw up my own plans to get a ball park figure, or do I really need to get an architect to do it properly, to get an estimate that would be reasonably close?
> So would it be enough to draw up my own plans to get a ball park figure, or do I really need to get an architect to do it properly, to get an estimate that would be reasonably close?
Depends how close you need it. We drew our own which was quite OK for preliminary discussions with planning and getting ball park quotes (which were quite accurate in the end).
In reply to gingerkate:
Obviously it goes right up against his boundary. If you're thinking of sticking a window in on the side aspect, then you may well fall foul of planning.
Obviously it goes right up against his boundary. If you're thinking of sticking a window in on the side aspect, then you may well fall foul of planning.
In reply to gingerkate:
Being a bricklayer i would estimate of the top of my head about 50-60k.
its always better to think at the top end of the scale!!
You can cut alot of costs though:
If you personaly recruit individual trades, i.e a bricklayer, a joiner, a spark etc when they are needed, then this will save you a hell of alot instead of giving the whole job to a builder!
depends how much involvment you want realy, but would save you a fair few k.
Also getting a list of materials of the individual trades and ordering them yourself will definatley save you a fair bit. Not only will a builder make a bit on materials, he will probably use his usual merchant and not spend hours shopping around like you could for cheaper materials, and ordering different materials from different merchants to cut cost.
Sounds like the garage and existing footings would be coming out, and where its toothed in to your neighbours isnt a problem at all, easily rectified.
hth
Allan
Being a bricklayer i would estimate of the top of my head about 50-60k.
its always better to think at the top end of the scale!!
You can cut alot of costs though:
If you personaly recruit individual trades, i.e a bricklayer, a joiner, a spark etc when they are needed, then this will save you a hell of alot instead of giving the whole job to a builder!
depends how much involvment you want realy, but would save you a fair few k.
Also getting a list of materials of the individual trades and ordering them yourself will definatley save you a fair bit. Not only will a builder make a bit on materials, he will probably use his usual merchant and not spend hours shopping around like you could for cheaper materials, and ordering different materials from different merchants to cut cost.
Sounds like the garage and existing footings would be coming out, and where its toothed in to your neighbours isnt a problem at all, easily rectified.
hth
Allan
In reply to gingerkate: £1,000/m2 is usually a good ball-park figure for the construction. Add an allowance for the demolition work required.
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
I thought if I helped I might learn useful stuff. Those climbers on Grand Designs up in Edinburgh did a huge amount themselves, I'd like to be able to do more stuff myself. Though I guess they weren't actually building it!
I thought if I helped I might learn useful stuff. Those climbers on Grand Designs up in Edinburgh did a huge amount themselves, I'd like to be able to do more stuff myself. Though I guess they weren't actually building it!
In reply to Martin76:
Right, I'll talk to the neighbour and then draw up my own plans and see what figure that gives. I just want to know if it's feasible before shelling out loads on an architect.
I suppose we wouldn't have to have a window looking his way, big ones looking back and front would be ok. Only they don't let you have really big windows now do they???
Right, I'll talk to the neighbour and then draw up my own plans and see what figure that gives. I just want to know if it's feasible before shelling out loads on an architect.
I suppose we wouldn't have to have a window looking his way, big ones looking back and front would be ok. Only they don't let you have really big windows now do they???
In reply to vincentvega:
Thanks Allan, I didn't actually know it was cheaper to use individual tradesmen, so that's really helpful.
Thanks Allan, I didn't actually know it was cheaper to use individual tradesmen, so that's really helpful.
In reply to 220bpm:
Cheers for that! Maybe I could help with the demolition anyway, even if I can't build anything.
Cheers for that! Maybe I could help with the demolition anyway, even if I can't build anything.
In reply to gingerkate:
You can save a lot of money by planning it all out yourself, hiring individual tradesmen etc. It is not that difficult, but an organised mind helps, as does being prepared to put the time in. If you take this approach there may well be plenty jobs you can do yourself.
Plenty of books will explain the processes, also plenty of tradesmen looking for work at the moment.
You can save a lot of money by planning it all out yourself, hiring individual tradesmen etc. It is not that difficult, but an organised mind helps, as does being prepared to put the time in. If you take this approach there may well be plenty jobs you can do yourself.
Plenty of books will explain the processes, also plenty of tradesmen looking for work at the moment.
In reply to gingerkate:
Once you have a sketch plan, maybe a few photographs, give you local Council planning office a ring and arrange to see the planning officer for your area. They will give you advice on the likelihood of your proposal getting planning permission, they use caution, but the advice should be good and is free. The planning officers would make the decision for a case like this and will just follow policy.
Once you have a sketch plan, maybe a few photographs, give you local Council planning office a ring and arrange to see the planning officer for your area. They will give you advice on the likelihood of your proposal getting planning permission, they use caution, but the advice should be good and is free. The planning officers would make the decision for a case like this and will just follow policy.
In reply to The New NickB:
Thanks Nick!
Thanks Nick!
In reply to gingerkate:
We've got a whole corner of our living room that's floor to ceiling windows. They're quite big!
> (In reply to Martin76)
Only they don't let you have really big windows now do they???We've got a whole corner of our living room that's floor to ceiling windows. They're quite big!
In reply to gingerkate:
If your prepared to get involved and pay pound notes on the day you could do it for a reasonable price. Just as a rough idea, without knowing any facts and figures:
Architect plans+Building regs+Building control fees £1000
Foundation excavation - could you do it yourself? Skip Hire/Grab Lorry to remvove spoil only cost that way still budget on £500ish
If your getting someone in then the skys the limit.
Demolition of old garage - havent got a clue without seeing it!
Concrete (Footings and Slab) £1200ish - depends on size.
Brick and Blockwork Materials sand cement - 3500ish bricks? £2000ish
Brickie depends who you know etc. £2000 ish in this climate would probably get the above laid.....
Joist and Floor £500ish
Roof £3-4k
Would get you a watertight building, Obvioulsly you need insulation, plasterboard, plaster etc etc
So 15k would get you a very basic structure if it all went smoothly, and you paid cash to individual trades, and managed it yourself. Give it to a building firm and 30k ish would be a good start price for a very basic build.
Rob
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
> Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
> Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
If your prepared to get involved and pay pound notes on the day you could do it for a reasonable price. Just as a rough idea, without knowing any facts and figures:
Architect plans+Building regs+Building control fees £1000
Foundation excavation - could you do it yourself? Skip Hire/Grab Lorry to remvove spoil only cost that way still budget on £500ish
If your getting someone in then the skys the limit.
Demolition of old garage - havent got a clue without seeing it!
Concrete (Footings and Slab) £1200ish - depends on size.
Brick and Blockwork Materials sand cement - 3500ish bricks? £2000ish
Brickie depends who you know etc. £2000 ish in this climate would probably get the above laid.....
Joist and Floor £500ish
Roof £3-4k
Would get you a watertight building, Obvioulsly you need insulation, plasterboard, plaster etc etc
So 15k would get you a very basic structure if it all went smoothly, and you paid cash to individual trades, and managed it yourself. Give it to a building firm and 30k ish would be a good start price for a very basic build.
Rob
In reply to andy:
Is it just upstairs windows they won't let you have big now then? Or is it up to local planning authorities? I'm sure I remember someone not being allowed the big windows they wanted, because of it not being green.
Is it just upstairs windows they won't let you have big now then? Or is it up to local planning authorities? I'm sure I remember someone not being allowed the big windows they wanted, because of it not being green.
In reply to ukminch:
Thanks for all that information, that's very useful.
Thanks for all that information, that's very useful.
In reply to gingerkate:
You have to have a window you can escape from in case of fire, no sealed in altogether. No idea if there are other restrictions.
You have to have a window you can escape from in case of fire, no sealed in altogether. No idea if there are other restrictions.
In reply to gingerkate: I'm not sure there's any planning regs about size of windows as long as they're appropriately glazed - modern windows are pretty efficient thermally - we've got massive windows in our living room and it's dead warm.
In reply to andy:
Maybe they've changed it... my memory is from ages ago. Good, then I will get big windows for and aft, if I can ever afford this thing.
Maybe they've changed it... my memory is from ages ago. Good, then I will get big windows for and aft, if I can ever afford this thing.
In reply to ukminch:
work on £120 m3
doesn't seem to be enough bricks there, 60 bricks m2 = 58m2
475 bricks per pack approx £247/pack
10 blocks m2
72 blocks per pack approx £93
the insulation would be cavity batts
> (In reply to gingerkate)
> [...]
>
> If your prepared to get involved and pay pound notes on the day you could do it for a reasonable price. Just as a rough idea, without knowing any facts and figures:
>
> Architect plans+Building regs+Building control fees £1000
> Foundation excavation - could you do it yourself? Skip Hire/Grab Lorry to remvove spoil only cost that way still budget on £500ish
> If your getting someone in then the skys the limit.
>
> Demolition of old garage - havent got a clue without seeing it!
>
> Concrete (Footings and Slab) £1200ish - depends on size.
> [...]
>
> If your prepared to get involved and pay pound notes on the day you could do it for a reasonable price. Just as a rough idea, without knowing any facts and figures:
>
> Architect plans+Building regs+Building control fees £1000
> Foundation excavation - could you do it yourself? Skip Hire/Grab Lorry to remvove spoil only cost that way still budget on £500ish
> If your getting someone in then the skys the limit.
>
> Demolition of old garage - havent got a clue without seeing it!
>
> Concrete (Footings and Slab) £1200ish - depends on size.
work on £120 m3
>
> Brick and Blockwork Materials sand cement - 3500ish bricks? £2000ish
> Brick and Blockwork Materials sand cement - 3500ish bricks? £2000ish
doesn't seem to be enough bricks there, 60 bricks m2 = 58m2
475 bricks per pack approx £247/pack
10 blocks m2
72 blocks per pack approx £93
>
> Brickie depends who you know etc. £2000 ish in this climate would probably get the above laid.....
>
> Joist and Floor £500ish
>
> Roof £3-4k
>
> Would get you a watertight building, Obvioulsly you need insulation, plasterboard, plaster etc etc
> Brickie depends who you know etc. £2000 ish in this climate would probably get the above laid.....
>
> Joist and Floor £500ish
>
> Roof £3-4k
>
> Would get you a watertight building, Obvioulsly you need insulation, plasterboard, plaster etc etc
the insulation would be cavity batts
>
> So 15k would get you a very basic structure if it all went smoothly, and you paid cash to individual trades, and managed it yourself. Give it to a building firm and 30k ish would be a good start price for a very basic build.
>
> Rob
> So 15k would get you a very basic structure if it all went smoothly, and you paid cash to individual trades, and managed it yourself. Give it to a building firm and 30k ish would be a good start price for a very basic build.
>
> Rob
In reply to andy:
you have to work out the 'U values', been a very long time since i used the formulae for this so not going to bother
> (In reply to gingerkate) I'm not sure there's any planning regs about size of windows as long as they're appropriately glazed - modern windows are pretty efficient thermally - we've got massive windows in our living room and it's dead warm.
you have to work out the 'U values', been a very long time since i used the formulae for this so not going to bother
In reply to gingerkate:
Last extension I had built came in at 800 pounds a square foot. It might be a bit cheaper now but this is for everything including architect, planning etc.
Last extension I had built came in at 800 pounds a square foot. It might be a bit cheaper now but this is for everything including architect, planning etc.
In reply to Removed User:
£8,700 m2, was it gold plated.
> (In reply to Removed Usergingerkate)
>
> Last extension I had built came in at 800 pounds a square foot. It might be a bit cheaper now but this is for everything including architect, planning etc.
>
> Last extension I had built came in at 800 pounds a square foot. It might be a bit cheaper now but this is for everything including architect, planning etc.
£8,700 m2, was it gold plated.
In reply to the inspiral carpet and all:
Thank you for all this, I will measure up and see if I can get a rough idea from the figures you've quoted.
What sort of difference would it make to the cost of the build to make the loft space liveable? I mean, I have some idea of the cost of loft conversions, but if you actually build it with the loft liveable is that still as much cost as a later loft conversion on the same area would be, or does doing it at the same time as the build save some money?
Thank you for all this, I will measure up and see if I can get a rough idea from the figures you've quoted.
What sort of difference would it make to the cost of the build to make the loft space liveable? I mean, I have some idea of the cost of loft conversions, but if you actually build it with the loft liveable is that still as much cost as a later loft conversion on the same area would be, or does doing it at the same time as the build save some money?
In reply to gingerkate:
We had an extension on the side of the house (installed from scratch) 5 years ago that was 3.5m wide and 7m in depth. Two rooms downstairs & bathroom + ensuite upstairs
I drew up some very basic drawings & spoke to the local plannng office just to see if it was all feasible before even thinking about money.
We intended to let the builders sort out everything (though I know you can save by doing stuff yourself)
With the drawings I was able to get reasonable quotes from seeveral builders and we eventaully went for a mid range price - £35,000 for materials & labour
Go for builders with good recommendations from frinds/family.
Our architech was brill - again get a recommended one, and hopefully one who is willing to fight for you as well if necessary.
Our original plan was rejected by the planning office but our architect put a well reasoned & accurate arguement and we all but got what we originally wanted.
Good luck.
We had an extension on the side of the house (installed from scratch) 5 years ago that was 3.5m wide and 7m in depth. Two rooms downstairs & bathroom + ensuite upstairs
I drew up some very basic drawings & spoke to the local plannng office just to see if it was all feasible before even thinking about money.
We intended to let the builders sort out everything (though I know you can save by doing stuff yourself)
With the drawings I was able to get reasonable quotes from seeveral builders and we eventaully went for a mid range price - £35,000 for materials & labour
Go for builders with good recommendations from frinds/family.
Our architech was brill - again get a recommended one, and hopefully one who is willing to fight for you as well if necessary.
Our original plan was rejected by the planning office but our architect put a well reasoned & accurate arguement and we all but got what we originally wanted.
Good luck.
In reply to gingerkate:
Just looking at your house on google maps, next door has had their loft done, and what could be solar panel or big window on the roof. Have you seen how much room they have gained up there? Extending the gable wall up and removing the pitch will cost a fair bit. Their extension on the back is not very big, would that go onto your veg plot?
Just looking at your house on google maps, next door has had their loft done, and what could be solar panel or big window on the roof. Have you seen how much room they have gained up there? Extending the gable wall up and removing the pitch will cost a fair bit. Their extension on the back is not very big, would that go onto your veg plot?
In reply to gingerkate: People have already given you loads of ideas about the typical cost. I'm not from a building background but am an engineer by profession... I recently bought a plot of land and built a 5 bed house and here's how i saved a LOAD of cash. Some of these ideas may work for you depending on your skills etc.
1) I employed a builder (just him and a lad) to do the brick/blockwork, the tiling, the plastering. Basicly all the main labour intensive jobs that would have taken me YEARS to complete if i attempted to do it myself.
2) I draw up all my own plans - Autocads not that hard to learn!
3) I paid a structural engineer to re-check all my engineering calculations and put there name to it - keeps council and NHBC happy.
4) I did all the tree felling and land clearing myself - i even managed to get a local plant hire company based just up the road to give me a 16 ton digger (thats a big 'un) and a Dumper at a discounted rate for weekend use and on a drive yourself basis - which they don't often do for individuals on the big plant gear.
5) I did all the ground works myself, including all the drains and other supplys - its a one man job really. Mine was a big reinforced slab with loads of steel reinforcing which i ordered and assembled myself. The large sheets of mesh i craned into position using the digger - so really was a one man job! Did the shuttering etc and then hired in a concrete pump and did the pour myself (although next door neighbour came and offered to follow me around with the big vibrator jobbie to get all the air out, and also the guy who drove the pump was a big help)! Was shitting bricks the night before the concreate arrived - wondering if my shuttering etc etc was up to it, hoping my quantity calculations were right - it all turned out spot on).
6) As mentioned I got a bricky/'builder' after the slab was down. However I did all the buying so could chase around for best prices.
7) The design of my house included quite a bit of steel work. I did all this myself - just got a mate to help me lift up etc. Saved a fortune by doing it myself - did all the cutting, welding and bolting together. All as per calculatons made above.
8) I did all the plumbing and wiring myself, including all underfloor heating, mains pressure hot water system (Decent pressure showers!). With the wiring i was able to go the extra mile by intergrating fancy lighting controllers, Home Cinema kit, various home automation and security systems. I can turn my heating on and off, set thermostat temperatures in each room all from the internet/mobile phone if need be - dead handy for when you're coming home late, coming back from holiday etc - in fact all the lights can be controlled like this too. The cost of this type of kit - if you do it all yourself is not really that much! an X10 Dimmer module for example is only about the same cost as a standard wall dimmer. I recon that by doing it all myself I put the system in for less than i would have paid an elec. to do a standard re-wire. That said you have sign off issues under part-p. Luckly I am Chartered with the IET (As was the IEE) and managed to get it all signed off no problem.
7) all the associtaed clearning, ground works, gardens, drives, etc i did myself - again keeps the cost down
8) Windows and doors - i got supply only from a 'trade' type supplier and fitted them all myself.
9) Internal joinery etc. Had an oak staircase manufactured and fitted it myself with help from my dad. - Thats not a one man job! All other wood work, door casings, skirting, door hanging etc i did myself. Nothing difficult if you take your time and get it right.
10) Bathrooms - ended up with three of them upstairs which seemed like a great idea at the time but turns into a load of work when you come to do it. Shop around for tiles and make sure you get a trade card where possible. By this stage you'll probably already have trade cards at builder mechants - chase prices at the likes of Plumb centre for bathroom suites.
11) Kitchens - Howdens - cabinets come pre assembled - there really isn't that much work to do installing it all. I bought a Jog for doing my worktops but ended up going for granite in the end - which i got an outfit in to do.
12) Screeded floors - did it myself but have since come across a couple of lads who will do it for next to nothing if u supply all the gear.
13) joists - my mate gave me a lift up with them
14) Roof trusses - not as heavy as they look - me and a mate got them up. Mine was a fairly complex roof but the supplier should come out and pre measure for exact sizes so most of it goes straight up, then the compex bits aren't really rocket science to cut and fit. Breathable felt on and then put the tiles on with the help of my brickie and his lad.
15) decorating - a complete ball ache and something i hate doing because i end up being a perfectionist about it - cutting in i left to my (now) wife who has the care to make it right - i rushed and ended up getting frustrated at the results! I had plenty of tiling and other stuff to get on with so left it to her. I like rollering walls though
16) I tiled almost all of the ground floor but put carpets upstairs and in one room downstairs. - paid supplier to fit them - but bought my own underlay from a trade supplier at a MUCH cheaper rate - good tip this for anyone!
All in all you can save A LOT of money! Many of the skills you will pick up on the way. I would imagine that doing an extension rather that doing a whole house would be a much better scale of project for a first timer to have a go at a lot of these things. And if you use the building and NHBC inspectors to your advantage you can butter him up to support and advise you rather than just put obsticles in the way!
Right enough waffle - i write loads when i've had a few beers!
6) Then with regards to
1) I employed a builder (just him and a lad) to do the brick/blockwork, the tiling, the plastering. Basicly all the main labour intensive jobs that would have taken me YEARS to complete if i attempted to do it myself.
2) I draw up all my own plans - Autocads not that hard to learn!
3) I paid a structural engineer to re-check all my engineering calculations and put there name to it - keeps council and NHBC happy.
4) I did all the tree felling and land clearing myself - i even managed to get a local plant hire company based just up the road to give me a 16 ton digger (thats a big 'un) and a Dumper at a discounted rate for weekend use and on a drive yourself basis - which they don't often do for individuals on the big plant gear.
5) I did all the ground works myself, including all the drains and other supplys - its a one man job really. Mine was a big reinforced slab with loads of steel reinforcing which i ordered and assembled myself. The large sheets of mesh i craned into position using the digger - so really was a one man job! Did the shuttering etc and then hired in a concrete pump and did the pour myself (although next door neighbour came and offered to follow me around with the big vibrator jobbie to get all the air out, and also the guy who drove the pump was a big help)! Was shitting bricks the night before the concreate arrived - wondering if my shuttering etc etc was up to it, hoping my quantity calculations were right - it all turned out spot on).
6) As mentioned I got a bricky/'builder' after the slab was down. However I did all the buying so could chase around for best prices.
7) The design of my house included quite a bit of steel work. I did all this myself - just got a mate to help me lift up etc. Saved a fortune by doing it myself - did all the cutting, welding and bolting together. All as per calculatons made above.
8) I did all the plumbing and wiring myself, including all underfloor heating, mains pressure hot water system (Decent pressure showers!). With the wiring i was able to go the extra mile by intergrating fancy lighting controllers, Home Cinema kit, various home automation and security systems. I can turn my heating on and off, set thermostat temperatures in each room all from the internet/mobile phone if need be - dead handy for when you're coming home late, coming back from holiday etc - in fact all the lights can be controlled like this too. The cost of this type of kit - if you do it all yourself is not really that much! an X10 Dimmer module for example is only about the same cost as a standard wall dimmer. I recon that by doing it all myself I put the system in for less than i would have paid an elec. to do a standard re-wire. That said you have sign off issues under part-p. Luckly I am Chartered with the IET (As was the IEE) and managed to get it all signed off no problem.
7) all the associtaed clearning, ground works, gardens, drives, etc i did myself - again keeps the cost down
8) Windows and doors - i got supply only from a 'trade' type supplier and fitted them all myself.
9) Internal joinery etc. Had an oak staircase manufactured and fitted it myself with help from my dad. - Thats not a one man job! All other wood work, door casings, skirting, door hanging etc i did myself. Nothing difficult if you take your time and get it right.
10) Bathrooms - ended up with three of them upstairs which seemed like a great idea at the time but turns into a load of work when you come to do it. Shop around for tiles and make sure you get a trade card where possible. By this stage you'll probably already have trade cards at builder mechants - chase prices at the likes of Plumb centre for bathroom suites.
11) Kitchens - Howdens - cabinets come pre assembled - there really isn't that much work to do installing it all. I bought a Jog for doing my worktops but ended up going for granite in the end - which i got an outfit in to do.
12) Screeded floors - did it myself but have since come across a couple of lads who will do it for next to nothing if u supply all the gear.
13) joists - my mate gave me a lift up with them
14) Roof trusses - not as heavy as they look - me and a mate got them up. Mine was a fairly complex roof but the supplier should come out and pre measure for exact sizes so most of it goes straight up, then the compex bits aren't really rocket science to cut and fit. Breathable felt on and then put the tiles on with the help of my brickie and his lad.
15) decorating - a complete ball ache and something i hate doing because i end up being a perfectionist about it - cutting in i left to my (now) wife who has the care to make it right - i rushed and ended up getting frustrated at the results! I had plenty of tiling and other stuff to get on with so left it to her. I like rollering walls though
16) I tiled almost all of the ground floor but put carpets upstairs and in one room downstairs. - paid supplier to fit them - but bought my own underlay from a trade supplier at a MUCH cheaper rate - good tip this for anyone!
All in all you can save A LOT of money! Many of the skills you will pick up on the way. I would imagine that doing an extension rather that doing a whole house would be a much better scale of project for a first timer to have a go at a lot of these things. And if you use the building and NHBC inspectors to your advantage you can butter him up to support and advise you rather than just put obsticles in the way!
Right enough waffle - i write loads when i've had a few beers!
6) Then with regards to
In reply to jaswa: must be pissed - can't even count!
In reply to ukminch: Rob - totally agree - when i did mine i focused on the basics u listed with the aim of getting a watertight shell - anything after that i knew i could sort out myself in dribs and drabs.
In reply to Rodders:
Cheers, that sounds like a good plan of action.
Cheers, that sounds like a good plan of action.
In reply to sutty:
LOL Sutty bless you, yes I do know what my neighbours have had done. I expect it's what they wanted, but it's not what I want. (They managed to upset the guy next door to them btw, so I definitely think talking to my neighbour is the first step.)
LOL Sutty bless you, yes I do know what my neighbours have had done. I expect it's what they wanted, but it's not what I want. (They managed to upset the guy next door to them btw, so I definitely think talking to my neighbour is the first step.)
In reply to jaswa:
That's quite amazing, to the point of being slightly awe-inspiring.
That's quite amazing, to the point of being slightly awe-inspiring.
In reply to gingerkate: you can save money on Architects fees ,you can do the job on a Building Notice..if you know what you want ...remember that the garage as a whole may need to come down if the existing footings arent up to the job...whre are you based
In reply to the inspiral carpet and all:
Home again now, so just measured it. If they let me build from the front of the garage to the rear of the house it'd be 4.5m by 8.5m. That would give us heaps of extra space, because it'd create a room at the back of the garage too. The house is a bit forward of the garage, so if they let us build as far forward as the front of the house it'd add an extra half metre, so then it'd be 4.5m by 9m.
Thanks for all the advice and information everyone
Home again now, so just measured it. If they let me build from the front of the garage to the rear of the house it'd be 4.5m by 8.5m. That would give us heaps of extra space, because it'd create a room at the back of the garage too. The house is a bit forward of the garage, so if they let us build as far forward as the front of the house it'd add an extra half metre, so then it'd be 4.5m by 9m.
Thanks for all the advice and information everyone
In reply to gingerkate:
A building notice is a way of getting building regs without doing a full plans submission. You basically submit a basic outline of scheme, the council says cheers, then a building inspector comes round and checks stuff. They will give you a list of stages when they will want to check things.
A building notice is intended for use on smaller projects in general, however that is not a hard and fast rule. We are converting an 8,000 sq ft church on a building notice - hardly a small project.
Even if you do a full plans submission building control will still want to check on you at stages.
The cost of a building notice is the same as full plans submission, but you don't need all the architects/engineers stuff submitted/calculated etc. If you are using an architect (or some other design pro) then the additional cost of them doing the regs submission is probably worth it. However if you want to do your own plans (not very hard) or have a mate draw something up for you I'd go for a bulding notice. In fact I'd go for a building notice whatever, but that's just me. If you're a solutions on the fly person do a building notice, if you check you've packed everything you need BEFORE you go on holiday then a full plans submission would probably be your bag.
A building notice is a way of getting building regs without doing a full plans submission. You basically submit a basic outline of scheme, the council says cheers, then a building inspector comes round and checks stuff. They will give you a list of stages when they will want to check things.
A building notice is intended for use on smaller projects in general, however that is not a hard and fast rule. We are converting an 8,000 sq ft church on a building notice - hardly a small project.
Even if you do a full plans submission building control will still want to check on you at stages.
The cost of a building notice is the same as full plans submission, but you don't need all the architects/engineers stuff submitted/calculated etc. If you are using an architect (or some other design pro) then the additional cost of them doing the regs submission is probably worth it. However if you want to do your own plans (not very hard) or have a mate draw something up for you I'd go for a bulding notice. In fact I'd go for a building notice whatever, but that's just me. If you're a solutions on the fly person do a building notice, if you check you've packed everything you need BEFORE you go on holiday then a full plans submission would probably be your bag.
In reply to gingerkate:
You could always just figure out what's involved in putting the footings in, and do it yourself. It's only digging and mixing and pouring in some concrete, and it could save you lots of money. If you're game for getting involved, then the only things you should be paying for are the bricklaying, flooring, and roofing really. There's plenty of stuff you can do yourself/ves if you swot up a bit. They'll complain about it, of course, and tell you you shouldn't, but do it anyway.
> (In reply to the inspiral carpet)
> Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
> Do you think the builders would let me help work as labourer on the building, or would that bugger up their insurance or something?
You could always just figure out what's involved in putting the footings in, and do it yourself. It's only digging and mixing and pouring in some concrete, and it could save you lots of money. If you're game for getting involved, then the only things you should be paying for are the bricklaying, flooring, and roofing really. There's plenty of stuff you can do yourself/ves if you swot up a bit. They'll complain about it, of course, and tell you you shouldn't, but do it anyway.
In reply to gingerkate:
Did i read in a post that you're in leeds? if you get stuck with anything then just give me a shout, i'm only in Huddersfield and would be happy to help out if you run into any problems...
Did i read in a post that you're in leeds? if you get stuck with anything then just give me a shout, i'm only in Huddersfield and would be happy to help out if you run into any problems...
In reply to Keeg:
Well, I can and do, but I thought it might be beyond the average punter. Not that Kate's the average punter, but erm you know what I mean...
> (In reply to Steve Parker)
> Why can't you do bricklaying, flooring and roofing?
> Why can't you do bricklaying, flooring and roofing?
Well, I can and do, but I thought it might be beyond the average punter. Not that Kate's the average punter, but erm you know what I mean...
In reply to Keeg:
I see, thanks for that.
I see, thanks for that.
In reply to Steve Parker:
Do they have books on this sort of thing? Can you teach yourself how to put in footings by swotting up?
> There's plenty of stuff you can do yourself/ves if you swot up a bit.
Do they have books on this sort of thing? Can you teach yourself how to put in footings by swotting up?
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
Yes I'm in Leeds. Thank you, that's kind of you
Yes I'm in Leeds. Thank you, that's kind of you
In reply to Steve Parker:
So how did you learn how to do bricklaying, flooring and roofing?
So how did you learn how to do bricklaying, flooring and roofing?
In reply to gingerkate:
Yes and yes, but you need to be the kind of person who can do it. Most stuff in building is pretty straightforward and self-teachable but you need the confidence (arrogance?) to think you can do it.
It is perfectly possible to:
draw your own plans
submit your own planning application
do your own engineering calculations
submit your own building regs application
prepare your own site
lay your own footings
build your own walls
install your own door and windows
fit your own joists and flooring
do your own roof
install your own electrics (as long as a spark signs it off)
install all your plumbing work (need a CORGI to sign off your gas pipework)
plaster yourself
decorate yourself
and a hundred other things.
The question isn't can you but do you want to? And have you the time?
> (In reply to Steve Parker)
> [...]
>
> Do they have books on this sort of thing? Can you teach yourself how to put in footings by swotting up?
> [...]
>
> Do they have books on this sort of thing? Can you teach yourself how to put in footings by swotting up?
Yes and yes, but you need to be the kind of person who can do it. Most stuff in building is pretty straightforward and self-teachable but you need the confidence (arrogance?) to think you can do it.
It is perfectly possible to:
draw your own plans
submit your own planning application
do your own engineering calculations
submit your own building regs application
prepare your own site
lay your own footings
build your own walls
install your own door and windows
fit your own joists and flooring
do your own roof
install your own electrics (as long as a spark signs it off)
install all your plumbing work (need a CORGI to sign off your gas pipework)
plaster yourself
decorate yourself
and a hundred other things.
The question isn't can you but do you want to? And have you the time?
In reply to Keeg:
I'll have to think on it. I'm quite technically minded... I'm a mathematician... and I'm very practical. But I'm not sure I've got the necessary brawn. Got an arthritic shoulder! Time ... I'm only working part time but I have two kids. But they're big kids now.
I'll have to think on it. I'm quite technically minded... I'm a mathematician... and I'm very practical. But I'm not sure I've got the necessary brawn. Got an arthritic shoulder! Time ... I'm only working part time but I have two kids. But they're big kids now.
In reply to gingerkate:
two good books are
Building construction handbook by Chudley and Greeno ISBN-13: 978-0750668224
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Bb9dg7TTNJ0C&printsec=frontcover&...
and
Principles of construction by Roger Greeno ISBN-0-582-23086-1
or you can view it in it's entirity here http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=vkOFsbAl6ogC&printsec=frontcover&...
this is an older version, the one i have
the building construction handbook is a more up to date version of the one i have
these two books are priceless on site and will help you no end!
two good books are
Building construction handbook by Chudley and Greeno ISBN-13: 978-0750668224
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Bb9dg7TTNJ0C&printsec=frontcover&...
and
Principles of construction by Roger Greeno ISBN-0-582-23086-1
or you can view it in it's entirity here http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=vkOFsbAl6ogC&printsec=frontcover&...
this is an older version, the one i have
the building construction handbook is a more up to date version of the one i have
these two books are priceless on site and will help you no end!
In reply to the inspiral carpet:
Thank you, I will get the book and browse.
It'd probably make more sense for me to get someone in for the big stuff, else it'll just take so long, but I don't see why I can't do the plans myself for starters.
Thank you, I will get the book and browse.
It'd probably make more sense for me to get someone in for the big stuff, else it'll just take so long, but I don't see why I can't do the plans myself for starters.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Fri Night Vid Le Toit de Ben - Quebec 1958
This week's Friday Night Video whisks us back to Val-David, Quebec, in the Autumn of 1958. Two daring young climbers embark on the ascent of a route that seemed unattainable, resembling a roof suspended in the air, defying all the conventions of the time....
3 May
Loading Notifications...