UKC

5 days in North Yorkshire on the trad

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 Matt Maynard 22 Jun 2009
Where have people enjoyed climbing trad in N Yorkshire? Have had some good days on the left wing at Malham but not really explored further afield. what do people recommend?
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

Twistleton, Attermire, Malham Right Wing and Terrace.

Gordale and Kilnsey still have some great trad routes.

But you will have to be quick as the manic grid retrobolters encroach ever deeper into this once great trad climbing area.

Give me an idea of the sort of routes / grades you like and I'll give you some route recommendations (if that would be helpful).

Neil
 andy 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Neil Foster: I think there's some gritstone crags nearby too.
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 22 Jun 2009
In reply to andy:

What did they used to say at school?

RT(F)Q....

No wonder I never reached my potential!

Neil
 jas wood 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:
brimham almscliff eastby whitestone cliff (solitude) pen y gent (sp) and a few crags on north york moors worth a look - wainstones ravenscar combo scugdale (soloing) slipstones (quality grit) healuagh (comma is bust!)

jas
p.s drop me a line if you stuck for a partner aroung nym or brimham etc.
 Bulls Crack 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

5 days? I'd go to the Lakes
 Ram MkiV 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:
> Have had some good days on the left wing at Malham but not really explored further afield. what do people recommend?
the right wing!
the butress with broad sword and mutton dagger at giggleswick is good for a half day. Those routes are great and good value. The trad routes at kilnsey are brilliant.
 Kid Spatula 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

Rylstone!
OP Matt Maynard 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Steve Ramsden: Thanks for all your suggestions so far guys.

I'm just looking to climb somewhere new with some big quality gear lines with grades in the low to middle e numbers. Kilnsey trad sounds great. Had a great half day on malham trad before and spent loads of time on the sport so would be nice to find somewhere fresh. Is Attermire very good then?

Thanks for your help and advice,
Matt
OP Matt Maynard 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard: oh yes indeed, the Right Wing, sorry
 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:
> ... I'm just looking to climb somewhere new with some big quality gear lines with grades in the low to middle e numbers.

And given that (as Andy spotted) you didn't specify, is it just limestone, or grit as well that you're looking at?

I'll try to give you some good routes to aim for, but it won't be until later tomorrow now.

Neil
 Mike Conlon 22 Jun 2009
In reply to jas wood: Solitude is on Peakscar I think !
 owensum 22 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

Almscliffe has only been mentioned once. So it needs to be mentioned again

Awesome crag. Classics at most grades up to E4 or so.

Oh, brimham rocks is worth a look too.
 brieflyback 23 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

Eastby would be a good half day for you. Slabby E1s, Nice E2 up the big buttress.

I suppose you can't ignore Almscliff at those grades, although I do my best to try.

There are some good lines at Rylstone at the required standard, in a lovely setting, Brimham also.

'Big' is the main obstacle. Really you're talking about Malham, Kilnsey, Goredale, as others have said.
 Rich Kirby 23 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

Up to E4..........

Almscliff - Big Greeny, Wester Front, Wall of Horrors, Great Western.

Caley - High Noon - more E5.......

Malham- Wombat, Mulatto Wall, Carnage, Crossbones.

Kilnsey - Central Wall, Diedre (if its not too overgrown)

Gordale - Face Route and Ivy Groove

Earl Crag - Earl Buttress

Blue Scar (bird baned til July'ish) - Unreal, Blue Grit, Central Wall

That should keep you busy........
 jkarran 23 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

You stopping in Sheffield or York Matt?
jk
 JLS 23 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:

>"what do people recommend?"

Slipstones
Brimham
Almscliffe
Caley

...are must visit crags!
 Simon Caldwell 23 Jun 2009
In reply to owensum:
> Almscliffe has only been mentioned once. So it needs to be mentioned again

Whitestonecliffe has also only been mentioned once. So it needs to be mentioned again
 jas wood 23 Jun 2009
In reply to Mike Conlon: i meant you would get solitude at whitestone :O) didnt realise there was a climb called solitude at peak scar mind !

jas
 jas wood 23 Jun 2009
In reply to Toreador: aye it has top routes except the ones falling down ! :O) countdown is a gem !
 jas wood 23 Jun 2009
In reply to JLS: slipstones is awesome but by no mean a big crag with only a few trad (gear) lines in my opinion.
 JLS 24 Jun 2009
In reply to jas wood:

>"with only a few trad (gear) lines"

I like to think there are lots of micro routes there...
 Paul Clarke 24 Jun 2009
In reply to andy:
It's a bit warm and sticky for the grit at the moment.

Though for a real get away from it all adventure could try Great Wolfrey.
Mini Guide on the leeds wall site

Paul
 Simon Caldwell 24 Jun 2009
In reply to jas wood:
> aye it has top routes except the ones falling down

even some of the falling-down ones are good
OP Matt Maynard 24 Jun 2009
In reply to jkarran:


In reply to James I think I will be in Sheff tommorow night and then meeting up with Pete and Grante for the weekend where there is talk of Pembroke action. Then camping with a Bangor BUMS friend in the midweek. Are you about this weekend mate? Did you have a good day Sunday before last after I left the hut?
OP Matt Maynard 24 Jun 2009
In reply to Neil Foster: Hi Neil.

Given the current weather I think it might be a bit silly to climb on the grit. Although could be a nice evening opportunity - although without a car is going to be difficult to get about. Think Malham/Goredale area might not be such a bad idea after all.
OP Matt Maynard 24 Jun 2009
In reply to Toreador: Hi there! Thanks for your reply.

Whitestones looks a little terrfiying to me, no?! Looks like a beautiful crag though.

Matt
 Simon Caldwell 24 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard:
It can be terrifying, yes. But if you stick to the main area then it's not quite as bad as its reputation would have you believe!
Here's a bit about our latest venture to the areas no-one goes to http://yorkalpineclub.org.uk/blogs/?p=1044
 Emily Goodman 24 Jun 2009
In reply to Matt Maynard: I like Crummuckdale for the pockety limestone routes and setting, not sure of you getting there without a car though. Ally will probably be up for a midweek evening limestone session.
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