UKC

NEWS: New F9a/+ for Ondra

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 UKC News 04 Jan 2010
[Adam Ondra on A Present for the Future - F9a/+, 3 kb]

Adam Ondra has climbed a new route at Madonna della Rota, close to Brescia, Italy.

A Present for the Future weighs in at F9a/+ and follows a huge roof to gain a technical and vertical headwall.



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51101
 Owen W-G 04 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC News:

So the route involves...

Font 7C boulder problem
F8c+ route
Font 7C boulder problem
Font 7A+ boulder problem
F7c+ route

How long is this route?!
 archiecb 04 Jan 2010
In reply to Owen W-G:

I'm more confused about how that only equates to 9a/+

At a lower grade a
6c boulder problem followed by a 7c+ route
then another 6c problem
then a pretty easy bit
then a 6c+ route

That has got to equate to more than slightly under one grade more than the hardest grade on the climb?
doesn't it?
 Steve13 04 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Is this the route's first ascent or who originally led the line?
 Fraser 04 Jan 2010
In reply to Steve13:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Is this the route's first ascent or who originally led the line?

"Adam Ondra has climbed a new route...". Sounds like the FA to me.

 nolan 04 Jan 2010
In reply to Owen W-G:

The 8c+ is a horizontal roof and looks short and hard
The second 7C boulder problem seems to be 1 move
The rest seems about average
so yes it is a long route but most of these super hard routes are a bit long nowadays.
Got to say tho it does look like a funny line that certainly makes the most of the whole crag. Not just a straight up by any means
 dobby 200 04 Jan 2010
In reply to archiecb:
> (In reply to Owen W-G)
>
> I'm more confused about how that only equates to 9a/+
>
> At a lower grade a
> 6c boulder problem followed by a 7c+ route
> then another 6c problem
> then a pretty easy bit
> then a 6c+ route
>
> That has got to equate to more than slightly under one grade more than the hardest grade on the climb?
> doesn't it?


that really depends on if there are any rests between the diffrent sections.
if there are massive rests between all of the sections then your statement would be true. but if they are straight one after another, or only with a small rest between them, then the final difficulity will show this by bumping the grade up by more than just a single grade

at least thats how i think its done
 Bulls Crack 04 Jan 2010
In reply to Owen W-G:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> So the route involves...
>
> Font 7C boulder problem
> F8c+ route
> Font 7C boulder problem
> Font 7A+ boulder problem
> F7c+ route
>
> How long is this route?!


Apparently there's as VS 4c section to the chain too.
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