UKC

How much of Cold Climbs has been in nick so far this season?

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 Cardi 14 Jan 2010
With a return to the good old days of a proper winter like when the book was written, are there many routes in Cold Climbs that haven't been done or doable this year? (Mainly referring to Wales, Lakes, Ireland, lower routes in Scotland) Some of the routes on the Ben etc that form every year, a bit later in the year may be excluded.

Trojan?

 jas wood 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi: have done quartzvein scoop, twisting gully and raven crag gully this season to date so theres 3 :O)
In reply to jas wood:

think half the country's climbed quartzvein scoop! look c gully was in. sticil face was in too. scorpion was climbed in december. eagle ridge, parralel buttress and deep cut chimney (hells lum).
In reply to mulletcocktail2000: Grey Mare's Tail, Point 5 Gully, Maybe Zero Gully? Possibly Labyrinth (don't think anyone's climbed it though)
 Jamie B 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:

Trojan has been done this season. Dont know the conditions required for the English/Welsh routes, but I doubt if Emerald Gully has been in yet. Having said that it's unlikely that anyone got near enough to prove or disprove this theory.
 Exile 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

In Lakes all the Great End Routes, Moss Ghyll, Steep Ghyll, and Raven Crag Gully have all been climbed in good nick, Chock Gully has ben climbed, but I don't think in 'classic; conditions, don't know about Screes Gully or Dove Crag Gully, but would be interested to know if people got up them.
 LakesWinter 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Exile: Maria got done in Wales
 oliwarlow 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Exile:
Dove crag gully was climbed on Sunday...not by me unfortunately
 Exile 15 Jan 2010
In reply to oliwarlow:

I did Raven Crag Gully last Sunday and was wondering about Dove Crag Gully for this weekend... another time.
 TonyM 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi: sure all the Welsh climbs have been doable. Probably the first winter for a good decade this has happened. Maybe the Lliwedd ones not been done though, since not great conditions for them yet.
 Lone Rider 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi: Just heard another Classic Rock route got its first winter ascent on Sunday. The Prow on Skye. No doubt more info will appear with the fullness of time.
 Jules C 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Lone Rider: Monolith Grooves has been done.
 Exile 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:

Gray Mares Tail obviously.
 Neil Anderson 15 Jan 2010
In reply to TonyM: trojan was done last yr too. is it the most fickle of the welsh cold climbs routes ? can't have been done 2 yrs running for a long while, mid 90's maybe ?
 Peter Metcalfe 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Exile: Great Gully on the Screes has been done.

Took a look at Dove Crag Gully last week which was almost fully formed but we bottled it!
 Facewest.co.uk 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi: How have the Irish conditions been, sounds like they might be the biggest stumbling block.
In reply to Exile:

Chock gully has been climbed in classic conditions.
 Exile 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Franco Cookson:

My mistake.
 The Grist 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi: Devil's appendix has been done by many. I think the cascade has also been done.
 jim jones 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:
My mate did Maria on Gallt Yr Ogof this week, first time I've heard of it being done this century!
 Exile 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:

Mitre Ridge was also climbed in December. (A good effort with only 8hrs day light.)
 andyinglis 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Mullet: When was sticil face in??????
 JR 15 Jan 2010
In reply to jim jones:

Yeah we did it last Saturday. It's had plenty of ascents. Certainly not Grade IV though!

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3018186&l=66b1376c9f&id=51104...
 Scomuir 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Exile:
> (In reply to Cardi)
>
> Mitre Ridge was also climbed in December. (A good effort with only 8hrs day light.)

A lot of it was done in the dark if you are talking about the pair that climbed it on the 13th, as I was on a route nearby, and was leaving the top just after the leader topped out.
OP Cardi 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Mark Grist: Did Cascade on Saturday. At least 6 or 7 teams split between Cascade and Central Icefall. Simply unbelievable ice formation. Has Trojan been successfully done then this year?
In reply to Lone Rider:
Now that would be an excellent winter climb! Steep wet cracks and chimneys... mmmm

NMM
In reply to Exile:
> (In reply to oliwarlow)
>
> I did Raven Crag Gully last Sunday and was wondering about Dove Crag Gully for this weekend... another time.


You weren't the only 1 hoping for Dove Crag gully this weekend...
I feel like I missed an opportunity at the weekend, although Little Stanger Gill IV *** was rather good.
 NickJH 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:
Great gully (with RH finish) was climbed on two occasions last week (maybe more?).
 TonyM 15 Jan 2010
In reply to andyinglis:
Sticil Face was climbed 29th December. Have some photos of it of my Picasa site (accessible via my profile)
 TonyM 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Neil Anderson:
Neither Trojan nor the Appendix is the most fickle Cold Climbs Welsh route. That prize goes to the best ice climb in the country (IMHO)!
 Neil Anderson 15 Jan 2010
In reply to TonyM: which is ?
 Ally Baba 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Fultonius: Has anybody done Labyrinth this year or in recent years? Really fancy doing it this year. What time of year is it normally best at?
 p3t3 15 Jan 2010
In reply to Exile:

Great gully on the Screes has been done a few times too.
 NathanP 16 Jan 2010
In reply to p3t3:

That's interesting. Great Gullyon the screes was my guess for one that wouldn't be done.
 Exile 16 Jan 2010
In reply to Scomuir:

I suspected it must have been, but still a good effort!
dogjogger 16 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:trojan been done
 Misha 16 Jan 2010
In reply to 75brynrheidol:
I'd be interested to find out on what day, if you know that. Cadair Idris is not far from our club hut and we'd been thinking about having a look but then the thaw came...
 smithaldo 18 Jan 2010
In reply to TonyM: come on Tony, mam tor gully wasnt that good ;0). I suppose you must mean back tor gully.
DaveBear 20 Jan 2010
In reply to Cardi:
Right hand finish to Great gully really is a superb route---I have fond memories of it as it was my first grade V! A friend went to look at it a few weeks back and it wasn't really there so it's good to hear it's had a few ascents this season!
 Mike Lates 20 Jan 2010
In reply to Lone Rider: Any further details? Mike
 Andy Moles 21 Jan 2010
In reply to Facewest.co.uk:
> (In reply to Cardi) How have the Irish conditions been, sounds like they might be the biggest stumbling block.

I know the Black Stairs, Rock n Roll Gully and Blue Lough Buttress in the Mournes have all been done, not sure about the Antrim ones.

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