Dave Birkett, Andy Mitchell and Mary Jenner climbed a once-in-a-lifetime winter route last weekend on Scafell's East Buttress. Birkett has an almost religious relationship with this hallowed crag and this new winter route, he told us, was one of his most intense mental and physical climbing experiences ever.
Read Dave's account and see photos by Ed Luke and Al Phizacklea in this UKClimbing.com exclusive.
In reply to UKC News: I saw the pictures in the photo gallery this morning and thought - that's going to be some impressive news! A fine effort.
(And to either the editors or JCM (whoever removed the comment) - it's really annoying to be able to see people commenting on a rude comment but not to be able to judge what degree of crime was committed in the first place!)
I remember walking under a very impressive free-standing ice pillar coming out of the Gold Rush spring many years ago. However with a Snowdon Mouldings Curver axe and a Camp Baltoro ice hammer it wasn't going to happen that day!!
In reply to UKC News: Is this the first winter route that climbs the East Butress from the ground? I know a fair few routes have been done there over the years but have (all?) required an ab.
In reply to The Mole: SOS is also all the way from the ground to the top too. What a fantastic looking route, good effort. I might head up tomorrow but I suspect its long gone now.
In reply to UKC News: that looks absolutely awesome hats off to you 3 and keep it up.
maybe this will encourage people to consider lakeland winter climbing instead of defaulting to scotland !
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
> It wasn't me removing it, I assure you. I was merely deploring the crag-as-woman metaphor, as presumably were all right-minded readers.
>
> jcm
Yes, apart from anything else, a very strange metaphor for a thing so utterly un-feminine as the east buttress of Scafell!
In reply to UKC News: Went up and had a look today, and was surprised to see it's pretty much all there still. I say pertty much as it was quite foggy so couldn't really see the top pitches too well although the top hanger was very obvious. Unfortunately with temperatures starting at about +3 and rising during the day it was a no go. Not sure what the forecast is (this was my only free day so I just had to give it a try) but if a freeze comes quickly then it could be set for the weekend. Form an orderly queue. SoS with the mayday finish would also be on if you can climb tech 10 above an ankle breaking fall?
The next time this very significant route (lakes route of the decade?) is in condition, will standards have advanced so far that it has become a trade route?
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