UKC

We have just got a pumpy stamina circuit worked out in our gargage wall. It has 14 moves and we think it probably French 6a.

My housemate reckons that if you climb a route twice (staying on the board) it adds a full letter grade, making our board circuit 6b. If you keep doubling the number of laps you can keep giving yourself an additonal full letter grade.

Therefore
1 lap = 6a
2 laps = 6b
4 laps = 6c
8 laps = 7a
16 laps = 7b
32 laps = 7c
64 laps = 8a

(8a is proabably the equivalent of climbing vetically the distance from our house in Meersbrook to the ferris wheel in town)

Have people heard of this making sense before?

It seems to be pretty true and is spitting me off at about the right number of laps ( :

In reply to Matt Maynard:

Unfortunately it doesn't quite work like that I'm afraid, but don't let that put you off as you'll certainly get a training effect from it!

If you're really keen I guess you could apply the rule roughly up to about 4 laps or so. Also doing millions of laps of the same circuit is also a fairly good way of getting overuse injuries (especially if you're an old codger like me)

In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:

As Tom says. If its 6a and you get to the point you can do 8 laps on it chances are that you are recovering on the moves as you do them and can lap ad infinitum or at least until mum/wife says its teatime.

In reply to Matt Maynard: re the 8a, is something that long and that easy realistic training anyway? Surely on anything that many (896) moves long it'd break down into multiple pitches, so you're training for something that doesn't really exist.

In reply to Matt Maynard:

Hi Simon.

We would like to invite you around to climb on our board.

Various Sheffield folks are coming over for a session on Tuesday night.

We are sure that you will find 8 or so laps steady as it is an easy circuit, but as with anything, fatigue evenutally sets in...

If you can climb '8a' (64 laps) we will buy you a beer - let alone ad infinitum. We are excited to be proved wrong.

In reply to Matt Maynard:

I'm not convinced how well it scales beyond a certain level but it certainly spat me (or at least my hangover damaged alter ego) off at about the right point.

jk

In reply to Matt Maynard:

Why not - Tuesday is a designated rest day !!. If its any harder than French 6a all bets are off. My endurance isnt too great at the moment but I think I'm in with a chance. What angle is the board? Presumably shaking out is possible.

In reply to Simon Lee:

Excellent, have sent you an email with the details ( :

In reply to Matt Maynard: Keep us posted with how this turns out!

In reply to Matt Maynard:






If he can do that I'll buy the f....r the best Jet fighter everyone's talking about.

In reply to Ian Black:

I'm taking my hat as a post-session snack

In reply to Simon Lee:





As long as there's no humble flavour pie available

In reply to Matt Maynard:

Unfortunately it doesn't work like that or I'd lap F5 for a few hours and claim F8c.
I used to ARC on F6b-6c routes, climbing continuously for between 45mins and and hour. F6b-6c was below my anaerobic threshold so I didn't get pumped - there was no accumulated pump to deal with and the last lap felt no harder than the first.
Your circuit should take about an hour to complete (14 moves x 64 = 896 moves at 4secs per move = 1hr), this is the sort of grade and duration that lots of people regularly ARC on.
I think part of the problem with some people's incredulity about doing this (offer of pints and jet fighters for successful attempts) is that you're stuck within your own narrow frame of reference: you get pumped on it therefore everyone must get pumped on it.

In reply to Matt Maynard: As various people have pointed out, doing 64 laps on a 6a is not 8a by far. However, if you can do 64 laps on a continuous 14 move 6a, your aerobic threshold is probably around 6c, which is good! If your aerobic threshold is around 6c and you can boulder around 7a/7b, a short period of p.e.-training should see you onsight around 7b+/c and doing 8a quite easily. So you are not completely wrong with your geometric-progression above.

In reply to Matt Maynard:

So the question on everyones lips must be - is Simon the proud owner of a jet fighter to drink his pint in, or is he waking up and having to pick fibres from between his teeth and explain to all and sundry where his hat went?

In reply to Matt Maynard: Ben Moon once said "when 6c's not that hard anymore, and 6b is approaching a rest..." take from that what you will, he'd just done Hubble Fr8C+

In reply to AJM:

Post match analysis:

I got creamed.

Matt(the OP) wasn't as naive in what he said as first impressions gave. When I walked up to the garage and saw uberwad Miles Gibson there I knew one way or another I was in for pasting. The circuit was definitely French 6a but there was no incut jug to fully recover on and a French 6a with only 14 moves on a 20deg board is actually quite hard. I tried double-cupping a rounded hold to milk a rest but again it wasnt quite good enough. One of the reaches kept shutting me down if I was slightly pumped but I think I should have used higher feet like Miles did.

I did 8 laps (I think), Matt did 12 and Miles did 32 and it was a fight for him and looked deserving of French 7c. Obvious lessons for me (apart from spraying on the internet) was that it is easy to underestimate how hard CIR is and that I neeed to start doing some stamina work. I'm sure it will come back quicly and it will be good to benchmark myself on the circuit in a few weeks time.

Thanks to Matt and Miles for a fun session and refraining from taking the piss.

In reply to Simon Lee:

If it's any (minor) consolation it shut me down at 3 laps quite consistently

For easy moves they stack up fast into something quite grueling.
jk

In reply to jkarran:

Actually I'm beginning to doubt I did 8 perhaps it was 4 - my memory is terrible. Matt?

In reply to Simon Lee:

8 isn't unlikely. 6b+ with a hangover is about right for me!
jk

In reply to Simon Lee:

Good man for giving it a go. Very different from the usual thread of views expressed with no realkiuty testing!

In reply to Simon Lee:

Interesting - I had wondered whether the very short circuit length might mean it packed a punch above its grade, since it was presumably all strength/power-endurance sorts of moves (for its grade obviously) - if its continuous uk 5b moves without rest on an overhanging wall (6a for 14 moves of that?) I imagine it could stack up fairly quickly (by the time you get to a 50m pitch 20 degrees overhanging with every one of the 100+ moves 5b thats getting to be an effort).....

Don't you mean ARC - I thought CiR was doing laps/problems but with decent rests so that eventually cumulative exhaustion finishes you off rather than pump?

AJM

In reply to Serpico:

Hi Simon,
It was nice to meet you last night and glad you had a good time.

So Serpico, we would like to invite you around...

In reply to Matt Maynard:

I'd like to take you up on your invite but 1hr45 is a bit of a drive to climb in a garage.
I still stand by what I posted previously.

In reply to Matt Maynard:
What's the 8a in France (I think) that has no moves harder than v3? AM I remembering this correctly.
How hard would the hardest move on the 6a be?
James

In reply to James Oswald:

Not sure about the one in france but I did one in Spain which had no move harder than English 5c. Maybe 6a at a push.
But then it was in Spain so it might not have actually been 8a

In reply to Matt Maynard:
Couold well have been Spain.
I can't remember.
James