UKC

Today... uhm, that would be yesterday, Romain Desgranges went to Branson, a very small but also legendary place at a hillside in the Vallais. This small crag is home to La danse des balrogs and Radja, the first 8B (1992) and 8B+ (1996). First done by Fred Nicole, but that goes without saying....

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54647

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users

The picture says Radja. That is not the start of Radja. Neither is the move part of the original Danse de Balrog. So, what did he climb? possibly the new school start of La Danse de Balrog (If he starts that way as shown on the picture) graded about 8a/+ or Radja with a start more to the left, which would certainly not be 8b+. Still two hard boulders though. Please note that I am more curious what he did then I would like to discredit his performance. Because the perfomance is still pretty good. But to claim Radja...

Maybe I am completely off and the picture is just some random picture of warming up.

Regards,
Seb

I agree with you Seb, the photo lookes like one of the new starts. There is also a video of him doing the normal start for la traction, but at the end of the video of video he does the variation for la Dance , (the video is about 2 years old http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiZ4p7M6SwA).

FOr the grades I agree with you the 2 new school starts bring down the grades. I have done the Dance with all 3 starts and there is a difference. And the same goes for Radja, I have done the "New school start" at I feel it is 8Bish I have done the original start since the hold broke, but have fallen on the crux. The start is not that much harder since the break, but it is more painful and cuts me after 3 goes... (Personnally I do not feel as I have done Radja... But that is me.) What is you opinion??

Grading is always hard. The start shown on the picture is easier than the original of La Danse de Balrog which is easier than the original start of Radja. I have not climbed Radja, so I do not know what grade it should be. I just think that the start should make a big difference as - for me - that is the hardest part (maybe it does not suit me well or I am too scarded for the sharpness of the hold is which actually is not that bad).

Please note that I would say that 8B and 8B+ is a big difference these days, so Radja with the start as shown on the picture could be very well 8B. 8A+ would be a bit too stiff, I guess, as the stand up itself would deserve that grade (at least?). I think you can say more about that then I do, when I understand your comment correctly.