UKC

Adam Jeewooth, a member of the British Bouldering Team, has climbed the F8c Unjustified at Malham Cove, Yorkshire.

Jeewooth, from Lower Darwen in Lancashire, has rocketed through the grades in the last few years - going from leading F7a on his first day sport climbing at Malham back in 2007 to climbing Unjustified F8c three years later.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55189

In reply to UKC News:

Good effort Ad. 7a to 8c in three years... sheesh!

In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Adam.

In reply to UKC News:

Have to admit I read the headline (on Google reader) as referring to an 8c where the grade wasn't justified! But perhaps that's a deliberate joke?

In reply to petestack:

Refreshingly honest account of the ascent! It sounds like this guy can go much much harder if 8C comes so quickly...

Impressive stuff!

In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Adam. Looking forward to hearing more about your ascents.

Mick

In reply to UKC News: Good effort JeeUnit. You can put your badge on your bus now!

In reply to petestack:
The route was originally climbed as "Justified and Ancient" by Nik Sellars who bolted a hold onto the crux.
It was later climbed without the bolt on by ??? and renamed "Unjustified".

In reply to simes303:

was a sika hold i believe not a bolt-on.

Cheers
Tim

In reply to Tim Broughtonshaw:

Correct by Nic in 1992

....then in 1993 Tony Mitchell took the sika off and climbed it without giving it a grade of 8c and a new name.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

it's worth adding that Tony's sequence (the way everyone has done it since) took a rightwards looping line around the difficult section that Nic used a sica'd hold to get through. I'm pretty sure if Nic had spotted the rightwards line he wouldn't have needed the sica.

Brilliant route though - I'm glad it's getting so much attention!

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

Seriously impressive rise through the grades, congrats and good luck ticking harder.

In reply to petestack:as referring to an 8c where the grade wasn't justified! But perhaps that's a deliberate joke?


Might be. Its getting a lot ascents in double-quick time including from old man Paul Reeve and currently attracting more attention than Cry Freedom - but then you only get lowly guidebook (old skool) grade of 8b+ for that.

I expect Unjustified deserves a nu skool Spanish type 8c grade from where I'm sitting (in my armchair).

In reply to shark: So what does Cry Freedom desevrve in nu-school Spainsh grades...?

Andy F

Could someone tell me whether or not it is 'acceptable' to grab the chain on this route? I've never really understood the rules/ precedent at Malham and would be keen to get an answer either way as the confusement thwarted my last attempt...

Cheers, Rich.

In reply to R Simpson:

No its not acceptable.

In reply to doylo: Correct mate. The crag police requre the belay on Unjustified clipping to take the tick.

Andy F

In reply to R Simpson:

Dan grabbed it but I think Paul and Rob clipped it. Personally I think if a belay is placed so its desperate to clip then grabbing it is fair game. It does sound hard to climb into position and the clip it on Unjustified.

In reply to andy farnell:

Apparently its four more tricky moves to clip the chain, which is considerable when your pumped stupid. A dyno specialist could dyno to the chain from 3 bolts down and claim it....

In reply to shark:

Personally I think if a belay is placed so its desperate to clip then move the damn belay!

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell: Personally I think if a belay is placed so its desperate to clip then move the damn belay!


So you'll be moving the belay on Raindogs then

Raindogs is a historic chain grab. Its the last move of the route. Can't think of any other routes that you grab the chain on.

In reply to doylo:

You going to break the news to Dan then ?

In reply to doylo:

And me - I grabbed the belay on Overnite

In reply to shark:

I'm sure Dan's happy with his efforts. I'm sure i couldn't get up there! I haven't been on Unjustified but have spoke to others who have and like the vast majority of routes in the world the accepted practice is to clip the chain.

In reply to shark:

ha i have done Overnite thats defo a clipper, i fell there staring at the chain on one go

I agree with Chris that you have to do a few more moves to get into a 'stable' position to clip the chain. I had a redpoint a month or so ago and fell off in a position where I could've grabbed the chain, but not clipped it!

In reply to doylo:

Clipping a chain isnt climbing and if its hard to clip then its contrived. If the accepted view is that that's unacceptable then bollocks to the accepted view. I'm happy with my efforts too.

With regards to chain grabbing in general: surely Raindogs is an anomaly in that it's acceptable to grab the chain (it can be clipped quite easily at 8a+ if you do a few extra moves) and that most routes require the chain to be clipped. I wondered if Unjustified was an anomaly too, or required standard practices. Now that I’m aware that others have clipped the chain, then I’ll try it like this too; ultimately though, surely it’s up to the individual in how they wish to climb and what they’re happy doing? A nice route nonetheless!

In reply to Shark:

Well thats one of the beauties of climbing, its a personal thing. The main thing for me is that people are honest about the style they're doing things. Dans a mate and he was honest about how he did the route. Good effort to him. My ethos is on the vast majority of routes you clip the chain, sometimes its a different route whether your grabbing or clipping. There is no rule book in climbing, just convention and precedent. Most of us aren't breaking records so its not really that important.

In reply to shark:

Hi Shark. I don’t really wish to be drawn into a debate concerning whether or not others’ ascents are valid; I’ve already stated my opinion on this in that it’s up to the individual and what they feel satisfied with. However, suggesting that clipping the chain is not part of climbing is a rather weak point: what about the clipping q’draws; not technically climbing either, and sometimes rather difficult to clip, but that doesn’t mean you can take hold of them?! Surely?

In reply to R Simpson:

An even weaker point. Leaving aside the acceptable option of skipping clips clipping quickdraws serve the purpose of protection for the climbing past it. The belay by contrast signals the end of the pitch. Its at the discretion of the FA where that is placed. If its placed in a position where it creates a grabbing dilemma then its fair game to grab in my view or should have been placed higher or lower.

In reply to shark:

What exactly constitutes a 'grabbing dilemma' then?..

In reply to R Simpson:

You probaly haven't come across it - its a problem that faces weak people from time to time

lol, ooh I did; hence my first post on here... Must be a sign of old-age

It's all fun and games anyway, and dosen't really matter in the grand scheme of things.

In reply to R Simpson: I thought this issue may arise at some point, especially after the 'news' item which was published without my knowledge or acceptance in the first place.

Yes I did grab the belay on Unjustified. I never set out intending to do this, and had always approached every RP with the intention of clipping the belay, which I had likewise done on numerous links prior to the route drying so I could start RPing. I made a split second decision to grab it, which I and no one else has to live with, I justified it to myself (pardon the pun) after much deliberating to myself at the belay. I am not the first person to do this on a route as Simon has stated, and likewise as Rich has stated: 'ultimately though, surely it’s up to the individual in how they wish to climb and what they’re happy doing?', Climbing the route was never about anything else but my own personal experience, it is as Rich says a great route, and i'm glad its getting lots of attention. I can't say i'm surprised that its taken an internet forum for this to surface, rather than at the crag to my face.

In reply to north country boy:

I'm sorry Dan, I had no idea whatsoever that there was an issue concerning your ascent (I wasn't even aware that you had done it till today); it's a shame that this thread has taken this direction. My initial question was purely to gain some information, as i was unaware of the specific rules of this route and am keen to do it as i try to rebuild my fitness! If you're happy with your ascent, then surely that's all what matters? I resepct your honesty nonetheless...

Nice one Dan, it may be an internet forum but at least though no one has been anonymous on this thread. Catch you soon.

In reply to doylo:
That makes sense.

In reply to aln:

Awesome - a big thread about chain grabbing. It's pretty much all been said, but I would add that Dan clipped all the draws on lead. Most ascents to date have had a lot, if not all, of the draws on the lower section pre-clipped. I certainly consider Dan's ascent to be in better style than my own, for example.

With regards to the grade, I was wondering when this was going to come up, as the route has received a lot of ascents in a short space of time. My own personal opinion is that it is perfectly fair at 8c. The comparison to Cry Freedom is often made but that's an argument to upgrade Cry Freedom, not to downgrade Unjustified. There aren't a lot of 8b+'s left to compare too, but Unjustified is (I think) harder than Power Ranger and Indian Summer, which are 8b+s of comparable length. It felt about as hard as Mecca Extension to me.

But most importantly, it's an absolutely stonking route; it's just a shame the rock is so poor above the belay or it would be a world-class route to the half-height ledge.

In reply to shark:

Nah, I'll go back and clip it and take the 8a+

Anfy F