Sindre Sæther has made the first free ascent of Arch Wall on the Trollveggen wall, Norway, quite possibly the most impressive summer ascent in the Norwegian mountains ever.
Arch Wall takes one of the tallest and least featured parts of the Troll wall and, at the time of the FA...
There is an account of Drummond's ascent of Arch Wall in Mirrors in the Cliffs or posssibly Games Climbers Play. I like it that he drops a load of gear and hopes his brother suggests they bail - but he doesn't.
Simon, it's Games, the first story in, I seem to remember. Dickie Swinden brought it to Wilson's attention. The rest, as they say, is history.
As far as I know, Hugh Drummond was no relation to the (then) Ed Ward-Drummond.
Mirror Mirror is the best exploration of obsession that I've ever read. Clearly Ed Drummond was prepared to sacrifice well-nigh everything on the altar of his desire.
> (In reply to Mick Ward)> As far as I know, Hugh Drummond was no relation to the (then) Ed Ward-Drummond.
>
> That's what I thought but the news article said otherwise:
>
> at the time of the FA (Drummond-bothers (Sic) 1972), it was
>
> Jack !!!
But these web sites say categorically that Ed and Hugh Drummond are not related:
Not in the same league as 'Mirror, Mirror' but if anyone fancies reading an incompetent ascent of the Rimmon Route its on page22 here: http://www.unumc.org/journals/journal8485.pdf
Jack - you'll like the title: 'Friggin' on the Ryggen'
In reply to shark:
Hell's teeth; that's quite a story. I've only looked down the Troll wall, but I think the account is somewhat understated!
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers. Glad you liked it. A case of fools rushing in.It was Bruce that planted the idea that we could do it. There is a picture of him on the Swedish route here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=147856. I had only been climbing for 7 months or so and had done nothing bigger than 2 pitches. Tom had been at it a bit longer but wasn't much better. I think there are 40 pitches on the Rimmon route. A proper adventure.
Ackbar04 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News: You should mention the second really (unless he soloed it of course)
In reply to Ackbar: The second was his father, Ole Johan Sæther. Sindre also freed the French route on Trollveggen last summer together with his father.
Mirror, Mirror is one of the great pieces of climbing writing about one of the great epics.
In reply to shark:
I enjoyed your tale Simon. A fine example of how climbing can take you to your utter limits and then back to cakes and coffee in the sun two hours later. I'm still not very tempted by the Trollveggen.
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