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how to treat your climbing hand/fingers

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jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
When I just started climbing I only got very hard skin on some of my fingers, expecially little finger. But after I started to climb outdoors I've got very dry fingertips and pal. I tried to use handcream, but that isn't very good before climbing, making you feel swetty and slipp from holds. If I like,don't climb for a week or so it comes new skin that's so dry I can just rip it off. A couple of times when I've climbed indoor I didn't get hard skin on my fingers (pointing and little -finger) but a piece of skin ripped off, sting/hurt like hell- expecially in contact with water, but also just by touching..
Anyone know why that happens, and how I can prevent that from happening? I tape my fingers when they get like this, so it won't hurt or happen too soon before it's healed.
 balmybaldwin 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

Generally known as flappers. Normally these happen inside due to the super grippy stuff the holds are made from. Taping can prevent this, but more important is good foot work and core strength as this will prevent you swinging around as much. Flappers normally happen on bigger juggy holds as your hand twists on the holds.

Try to concentrate on placing your hands more smoothly rather than grabbing for holds as well as trying to keep in balance as you move.

I think this is something everyone experiences early on in their climbing, and whilst i still get baddly chewed up hands, I can't remember the last time I had a flapper (which do indeed sting like hell!)

Other than that, I would recommend a pot of Climb-on (get it from your local climbing shop/wall) for soothing/healing the skin after a climb.

The more you climb the more used to it your skin will get.

I would urge you not to try hardening your sking using surgical spirits or the like as this tends to lead to skin cracking which is probably more painful!
 gethin_allen 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
climb-on bar is good, you can stuff it in to cracks and splits and it helps everything heal nicely.
http://www.climbonproducts.com/

otherwise, as a preventative thing, get strong fingers using rock rings or a rolling pullup bar so that you don't rely on friction to hold on to holds.
 JLS 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

>"a piece of skin ripped off"

This is what we call a "flapper". It's when thick skin catches on a hold as you slip off (particularly when your hands are hot and sweaty). The solution is to use a nail file on your skin to keep it thin soft and supple. I rarely bother with this, preferring to let go of the hold before and damage is done.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
thank you so much for quick and good answers!

I'm sorry when I'm trying to explain without knowing the actual word. But I don't care as long as you understand what I mean.
 terryturbojr 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

I was told recently to use a file to round/smooth the edges of the callouses as it was the rough edges that caught on holds and caused them to rip open. As someone else said it's jugs that do it most and most the time I do it is on the ceiling where the holds are all big jugs.

You can always superglue the flapper back in place too, normally comes off after a few days but gets over the initial stinging phase.
In reply to jessica_0601:

>. I tried to use handcream, but that isn't very good before climbing, making you feel swetty and slipp from holds.


Have you thought about using it *after* climbing? sigh.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to terryturbojr:

Thank y'all!!

I've gotten 3 flappers. The first one came right off, or I was left with just a read round "hole" on my pointing finger. The other two was from different times on the little finger right above eachother. I used a scissor once to get the skin off and the other one I just bit off. I think it hurts just the same if I have the skin hanging on or if it's gone.

You're btw right about the jugs. I got all the flappers from the exact same route. It is a pretty long route, but with a lot of good holds. Expecially on the overhang and most exhausting part, almost on the top (only two bolts left or so). Yes,not only on the same route, but the same place on the route as well. It's true about the summer and the swetty part too.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to midgets of the world unite: ok, I don't use it right before climbing. I'm not THAT big of an idiot, even though some might think so. But I've used it early in the mornin f.ex , when I'm climbing in the evening. But of course, I use handcream when my hand feels dry.
Will climb-on replace the hand cream, is it for the same cause?
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: stop using chalk

eventually your hands get tougher and your technique improves and it stops being an issue anyway so just stick with it
In reply to jessica_0601:

no; climb on will help toughen up torn areas of skin and help cuts and grazes heal.
The best advice you've got on this thread so far is just to be patient; your skin will toughen with time
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to EasyAndy: stick with what? yes, the first half year, or so I didn't use chalk at all I can say. I didn't have my own bag, but I didn't feel like needing it either. And I felt like it just looked stupid when people seemed so obsessed and used it all the time. almost like cheating. Isn't one a better climber if one can manage a route without chalk while another has to use it? No, now I'm a chalk ball user, and think it helps. But is lose-chalk better? what about fluid? I'm thinking about buying a bottle. Which brand is better? and lose/ball chaLK brand?
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to midgets of the world unite: OK,thanks. but I won't be able putting it on flappers..
 balmybaldwin 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

Climb-on is OK on flappers (yes it stings a bit at first, but rapidly removes the stingyness)
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
> (In reply to EasyAndy) stick with what? yes, the first half year, or so I didn't use chalk at all I can say. I didn't have my own bag, but I didn't feel like needing it either. And I felt like it just looked stupid when people seemed so obsessed and used it all the time. almost like cheating. Isn't one a better climber if one can manage a route without chalk while another has to use it? No, now I'm a chalk ball user, and think it helps. But is lose-chalk better? what about fluid? I'm thinking about buying a bottle. Which brand is better? and lose/ball chaLK brand?

i just meant stick with the climbing and eventually it stops being a problem, never used any product or anything on my hands and i can happily climb for hours, it just takes time to get like that.

as for chalk or liquid or whatever, couldnt tell you cos i wouldnt touch the filthy stuff wouldnt use it outside cos it makes cliffs ugly so dont see the point in using it inside
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to balmybaldwin: but when I've got flapprs I can't even touch stuff, and forget about water! I use plaster.. maybe use some climb on first and cover with plaster? ouch, I just shudder by the thought. Hopefully I won't get it anytime soon again. I haven't climbed for a couple of weeks now, and when I'm sitting here and get all those good tips about this and that I just can't wait getting back to the wall.. (one week I inflammated brachialis muscles ,and other week and still I'm terribly sick with bad caughing)

But are you saying this flapper- problem and other stuff with hard skin etc is just a newbie problem? Aren't those who have been climbing for more than two years having those problems? Or for how long do I need to climb before I get rid of the problem?
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to EasyAndy: so you're a climber who don't use chalk at all, never been and never will? When climbing outside , it helps seeing what places to hold,though..

Lucky you if you haven't had any problems with flappers etc- cause then you won't be needing all that stuff either. Oh well, people are made different. Some climb well. Some are just lucky with great climbing hands:P
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: no i've been through the flapper stage, but it just stops happening after a while

and yep, never have and never will use chalk. also i reckon if you are prone to dry skin chalk wont do you any favours at all
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to EasyAndy: but what do you do if you get all swetty and start to slip from holds?
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: dry them on my t-shirt if i need to. it's not really a problem for me though
 UKC Forums 19 Aug 2010
This thread was started in the ROCKTALK forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

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More Forum descriptions - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/forums.html
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to EasyAndy: I guess using handcream when I've got dry hands won't help me either. If I stop using cream, maybe I can stop using chalk.But "everyone" seems to use chalk.. As I said I didn't my first half year either.
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
> (In reply to EasyAndy) I guess using handcream when I've got dry hands won't help me either. If I stop using cream, maybe I can stop using chalk.But "everyone" seems to use chalk.. As I said I didn't my first half year either.

chalk has its opponents. some people find it a big advantage, for me personally i dont like the visual damage it does to cliff faces, so i would rather lose out on its apparent advantages than mess up a cliff face

it's a personal choice thouh, i dont criticise other people for wanting to use it

handcream, used at night say when you will be climbing the next day will certainly not be a bad thing for your hands if they do get dry

chris05 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

Dont think its been mentioned yet, I find this: http://www.climbersbalm.com/ better than climb on for daily use.
 Kemics 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: just climb on granite, in one day turns a gnarly set of grizzled callused hands into baby soft pink tender masseuses hands.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to chris05: ok,thanks. and in what way better than climb on? are they for different kind of use, or helps the same problems? I've seen climb on in store here back home, but not this balm. is it sold in every country?
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to EasyAndy: if you only climb outdoors, I can see.. I mostly find the chalk useful indoors..
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
> (In reply to EasyAndy) if you only climb outdoors, I can see.. I mostly find the chalk useful indoors..

i climb indoors as well, just figure whats the point in getting used to it if i'm not going to use it outside
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
'She's' a troll andy, you're wasting your time.
 TraceyR 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: I dont think "she" is a "she" either.
EasyAndy 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: a shame if so, she is easily one of the most entertaining posters on this board
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to TraceyR: Ok,you're so funny. Whats up with all the trolling? Are most people here trolls?
And why don't you think I'm a she? ha ha,LMAO.

And, thanks to easyandy-you've been so helpful through so many of my topics!cheers,man
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
So far you're in norway, have broad shoulders due to climbings 5's, you have ugly feet from climbing, dry and sweaty hands and talk like a teenage girl from alabama. You've asked about crags im just about every country/going to study in every country in the world.

Am I the fool for calling this one out? I don't get it.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate:
ok.. I still don't get it.
but I can try to explain. I'm sorry that I seem like a childish young girl, eventhough I'm as old as I am. I know I'm a little immature due to my age. But you don't need to tell me that.
I found this site very helpful, and ask a broad different bunch with questions so I can get some new knowledge, ideas, help etc. Anything wrong with that? Coming to the exchange-country part, I just want to see if you have any recommendations. I don't know if you've ever been studying, but you apparantly don't know about the system. You can pick eight places. and I can exchange half a year/a semester during my studies. After I'm finished I can exchange for a year if I want. I just wanted to see what kind of opportunities I had if I wanted to go to a place not too far from climbing.
And about the shoulder-thing- people are different, I might be a person building muscles easily on the shoulders..and 5&6s can be hard enough for me, like a 9 would be for you.. and with my poor technique,is it so strange that I can get muscles from grades that you look at as easy-peasy?Among those routes in the same grade, I'll say it can be a huge difference. One 5 can be easy when another is hard as h... and alabama?

And who do you think you are, hidden-profile dirty old man?!!
So,in your opinion who or what do you think I am? ha ha.. looking forward to hear what you are suggesting.
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
Basically it is my suspicion that you infact a man.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: and the reasons for thinking that are? it's so funny, since I'm a 24y old girl. great to know someone thinks I'm a man. That one's actually new. No one have thought so before. Only myself thinking I have a males body when looking it the mirror. Everyone else think I'm really girly. I think I can do both. And some have realized that too,after I started climbing
 Niall 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate:
> Basically it is my suspicion that you infact a man.

Easy mistake to make, it's the big broad shoulders
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
If hypothetically you were a troll, when is your rampage going to come to a end? Just wondering?
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: So tell me the whole story,idea about who I am,apart from me being a man. Since I' m lying about everything,tell me what's the truth? And I don't think I catched your question,so correct me if I'm not answering it;I will stop when no one replies anymore and I don't have any more questions. And that will be soon,since I shouldn't do this but studying. It's just you all are so entertaining,expecially you sexbomb,haha! Tell me how old, where I'm from,everything that I don't know about myself
 Niall 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

Are you Hannah's evil twin?
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
I'm not sure if I appreciate being called a sexbomb by what is quite possibly a 40 year old overweight man. To be honest I have no idea of your identity save you are not who you say you are. You are a account created to possibly annoy, entertain or a mixture of both.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: you shouldn't appreciate it, I don't even know what you look like. ha ha, I'm an immature 24y old, I can assure you that. And pretty much everything else I've told.
I don't understand this sentence:
I have no idea of your identity save you are not who you say you are.
I'm guessing you're not from UK.
My account was created first of all for helping out a friend. But then I found out it was a pretty active site and people were great at answering questions, so I started topics for myself. I'm writing from my heart, and am pretty damn honest. You thinking something else is a pity. But go ahead. I just got so turned off by the first respond I noticed from you. Good luck with your sex-life.
So, why do you say I'm from Alabama.
Where are you from, tell me about yourself- if YOU dare to tell the truth- age etc.
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
I'm 19, live a few miles from manchester and will study there in september. I'm a boy and have a girlfriend so my sex life is good. Daring enough for you? The alabama statement was from the 'yall' or whatever you say quite a bit. Now I feel like I'm being suckered into treating you like some legitimate user on this site.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: aha, and I'm taking you as a legitimate user as well. I don't want to find out who's trolling in here. so, you're just a kid. no wonder you're so inpolite and harsh. I must say I actually thought you were one of those old guys in here who just had to throw shit at me.
ha ha, I'm just writing internet-ish..and taking after people here,I guess. instead of writing you all, it's faster and shorter . ha ha. ok.
But if you had read the rest of my topics and my replies to others you might think it over again and not thinking that I'm a man. I just don't get why you think I'm a man. maybe just the same reason I thought you was an old man. - since it appears to be most of them here?!
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
I think you're a man because there are sad men in the world that prance about on the internet pretending to be relatively young girls trying to wind people up. You're immaturity is so obvious it sounds as if you put it on. I'm sorry if you're who you say you are but many seem to be under the impression that you aren't.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: oh well, you can think what you want. sadly I'm that immature. I'm a curious person who likes to ask about this and that. just like a child,I know. That's one of my flaws. Sorry about that. I'll try to change myself. But I've got some very good answers and recommendations from this site, and have the impression that not everyone are thinking like you. Some have said that they think it's some trolling going on here, but I don't care. I don't know if those who have answered my questions in a great way also think so , but in the end- I'm just looking for answers to my questions by starting a discussion. I'm not here to make friends or do creepy stuff. I understand kid, that you- like everyone else know you can trust nobody on the internet, that there are many false-profiles out there, and that there are creepy old men trying to date innocent young girls etc. Think what you want, but you would be surprised how wrong you took if we meet someday ha ha, but that won't happen, since I don't know your name or looks.
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
> (In reply to r0x0r.wolfo) oh I understand kid, that you- like everyone else know you can trust nobody on the internet, that there are many false-profiles out there, and that there are creepy old men trying to date innocent young girls etc. Think what you want, but you would be surprised how wrong you took if we meet someday ha ha, but that won't happen, since I don't know your name or looks.


Or creepy old men posing as innocent young girls. Hahaha name and looks and about a thousand other reasons. Overweight and bad feet (your words)? I don't think I'm missing out.
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate: Alright, I believe you when you say you're 19. Only stupid young kids like you are thinking like that. I'm a very cautious person myself, but I don't attack people when they're saying that they are telling the truth. I don't know what you mean about this:

Hahaha name and looks and about a thousand other reasons. Overweight and bad feet (your words)? I don't think I'm missing out.

Are you a climber at all? I don't think you have read all my posts, but I'm not really an outdoor person ,so I'm not used to all of a sudden building muscles, get a different bodyshape and even uglier feet than I already had. I don't know why that can make me a man??

Ok, I guess you won't believe me anyway,so I'm just wasting time. One thing I can say, I pity your girlfriend having a boyfriend like you. You disgust me.
 liz j 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
What's with the personal indults Jess? I'm sure that wolfo's gf is more than happy, and it's nasty personal comments like that one that lower the tone of your somewhat humourous threads.
 FreshSlate 19 Aug 2010
You're a persistant one I'll give you that. You pity my girlfriend because I think you're a man? Ah right, gotcha!
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to liz j: yes, I was about to say that I thought even Liz seemed to be a nicer person than this wolf. Have you read the reason I started attacking him? Do you think I appear to be a man?! Gotcha what? ok.. call me man or whatever. sometimes I wish I was a man. you've got it so much easier at some points.
 liz j 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
Do you want my totally honest opinion?
Yes, I think you are a male member of this forum who has set up a false identity to have a bit of fun trolling on the site. I believe that you are from Norway, but have climbed in the UK on one visit, in the Peak, and Portland (where you didn't rate the quality of the limestone).

You are indeed multicultural, having travelled to many distant lands.

You seem to like to sow the seeds of trollism by the many hints in your threads, but you are a canny one, and change the subject whenever anyone challenges you.

I like it, you have certainly made for a more entertaining read over the week.

Of course, I may be totally wrong, in which case I apologise sincerely and hope never to meet you at the crag because you are bigger than me!!
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to liz j: Sad to hear that you think I'm a man. But you're a lot of fun yourself Liz. I was laughing while reading this respond. I can honestly tell you that I'm not a man,I've never climbed in the UK.Actually I've only been to London as a tourist a couple of times (Love the shopping there;Westfield,OxFord Street-London has so many great chainstores like TopShop,MissSelfridge,RiverIsland,NewLook..even Primark!)-are there stores like that all over the uk? And to the hints can you give ex,I don't understand. And do I change subject,in case not my intention..just ask again and I will answer. I can be restless/fuzzy sometimes.. And about the size,what's your height ?(I know I can't ask about weight,eventhough it's not a problem for me to tell.Maybe I'm a man after all,haha!! Funny funny
 jkarran 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:

I shave off the dead skin and calluses with a razor blade. Moisturise if it's sore after climbing. Stop when it gets too bad.

It's normal and it gets better with experience. Make an effort not to move/twist your hand once loaded, that's a good starting point.
jk
 liz j 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601:
At 5'1", I'm less of a troll and more of a a hobbit. I have flat feet too, although they are not hairy. Are your's hairy Jess?
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to liz j: Haha.I'm actually starting to like you,if I can use that word. You are funny. No,not hairy but really ugly and a crooked bigtoe. Hm,I don't know the height in feet,I need to look it up I guess,if you can't translate into m or cm
jessica_0601 19 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: Ok 155cm-that wasn't much,lil Liz That makes me bigger than you,or at least taller I don't know your weight, but I'm overweight being me-compared to some others I might be almost 'normal'..
Removed User 19 Aug 2010
In reply to liz j:
Maybe Jessica was a man but has had a tuck and roll.
T'roll for short.
 Lurking Dave 20 Aug 2010
In reply to FreshSlate & Liz J: Spot on the money, Jess is green and hairy with boils.

Too many questions, too provocative and far, far too much time on his hands.

Cheers
LD
jessica_0601 20 Aug 2010
In reply to Lurking Dave: What? Explaination to that- I would have gone climbing if I could. I'm sick and have been all week. What about all of you who spend a lot of time in here. Is that making me a man? I don't know how many years,but I found this site this week,I will soon be gone. I know you want to get rid of me. I can't believe the trolling means that you think I'm a man. I cross my heart,I'm a girl,maybe one of the youngest here.. Or no,I saw there were people around 20.. Well,those who are fed up with my q's ,stop clicking in to my topics,and stop replying then!! You know what,I bet those who are attacking others for not being truthfull are a bunch of shittalkers themselves. But I go along with it,people can lie as much as they want to,as long as I get great answers to my q's. But you should know I'm totally honest ,actually too honest-cause why should you know all you know about me? I can tell you once and for all,and you can descide whether to believe me or not Jessica is only my middlename,a nickname I use cause that's one of three names I like best
EasyAndy 20 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: i dont especially care one way or another whether you are a troll or not. afterall i could be one too. if you're a troll then i dont think you're very good at it, and there doesnt seem to be an ultimate point to it, so perfectly happy to converse with you tbh
jessica_0601 20 Aug 2010
In reply to EasyAndy: Yes,likewise -you have given a lot of good answers. I can assure you I've been totally honest about everything. And my questions serious. You might find me pretty strange,but it's who I am. I'm no troll.I didn't even know what it was. I know it's a common thing acting you're somebody else on the Internet,but I didn't think people were like that on a site like this,where you actually can find climbing partners etc. I know it isn't like that on Norwegian climbing sites at least. People are using their real names. Some have pics too. But do you disagree- if so that makes me scared and have to think twice before I meet someone for climbing then. At least have to go a place with a lot of people indoors.
EasyAndy 20 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: i've found most people on here to be pretty cool forum wise, but havent met anyone in real life and dont really plan to. thats not why i came to this site

always makes sense to meet a stranger in a public place if thats what you decide to do. thats just common sense really

also seen alot of foreign people getting a hardtime from people on the internet, not having good english seems to be a great way to get people to think you're a troll. on the other site i post on (nothing to do with climbing) every single foreign person who signs up gets the same treatment, it's kind of embarrassing

you might be a troll, you might not be, till i know one way or the other then you get the benfit of the doubt
 snailonvalium 25 Aug 2010
In reply to jessica_0601: pmsl this thread is funny!
anyway to seriously answer your question(even though youve had some sound answers so far)...buy some finger tape and use climb on.
 snailonvalium 26 Aug 2010
In reply to Niall: yes,where may i ask did you find it?!not that it matters as im going to turn it into dog food.....lol

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