UKC

Which holds on 40 deg wall

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 geoff.comley 24 Jan 2011
Hey,

I have just built a 40deg overhanging wall, and am now looking for holds, i havnt got any t-nuts bolts etc yet so am after a 30 ish hold pack that will be good for starting on V4 problems and that will have potential for V8 in future. So in other words i want a good mixture of crimps/ slopers (how slopey can you get on a 40deg board?) undercuts and jugs. Is this any good http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/mega_packs.html is this suitable for my wall?

Or moon do a set http://usa.moonclimbing.com/pads-bags-training/bolt-on-holds-c-302_318.html but are expensive and don't come with hardware.

Any advice much appreciated!
In reply to geoff.comley:

I'd get quality ergonomic non-tweaky resin holds:

core/bleaustone/HRT/entreprises/Moon

mini jug/incuts/pinches/slopers/crimps

then fill the rest of the board with home made wooden ones. Try get a load of offcut wood off timber yards or friends..etc

Then ask local walls if they can sell you some t nuts and bolts (as you usually have to bulk buy these).

hth
 P Rogers 25 Jan 2011
In reply to geoff.Try these guys http://www.customholds.com/garage_set.htm
Almost everything you could want in one box, if you need others take a look at the Beacon range.
Hope this helps
 Swig 25 Jan 2011
In reply to geoff.comley:

Is 3/8" hardware as supplied by Metolius the same as M10?

I've got 5 useless T nuts that don't work with most holds which are M10. I've never got to the bottom of it but I did once get five Metolius holds.
 Niels 31 Jan 2011
In reply to P Rogers:

What is the texture of these holds like?
 k2ted 31 Jan 2011
Mr Hession speaks wise words.

Ive got a 40 degree wall with mostly Core holds. Ive also got the Bleaustone positive crimps & slopers which are the best of the bunch.
 JIMBO 31 Jan 2011
In reply to Swig:
> Is 3/8" hardware as supplied by Metolius the same as M10?

the metric M10s do not fit imperial 3/8" - slightly different thread pitch and you find they go in a few mm and then tighten up.

Would say that the Moon Power grips are excellent for steep board... nice and positive. Slopers can be tricky as at 40 degrees a 'flat' hold is a 40 degree sloper!
OP geoff.comley 31 Jan 2011
In reply to geoff.comley: are all nuts apart from metolius (which are 3/8) M10?
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