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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (211) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=453229
Repeat posters - 42
AJM
Daniel Heath - bit of a winding down week - hope to see you stepping it up this week
TonyB - sounds like a bad week - inspiring weather and a bust finger. Hope both clear up soon
Kevster - hope that back has recovered
The New NickB - sounds like a good selection of goals hit there
richardh - nice one on Cold Turkey
Niels - hope the skiing conditions got better...
Steve John B - well done on pushing on through on Sunday
Jeriqo - that sounds like reasonable mileage given the constraints. Good luck finishing the house move
andy - good varied week
seankenny - hope you felt good enough to get out in this lovely sunshine
Sankey - good week on both fronts, although I'm sure the grit bouldering season just ended didn't it
andy farnell - sounds like you made the best of it - hope the little one has setled down now
Thickhead - lower mileage than previous weeks, but still out almost every day
Mike Nolan - sounds like youve got the rehab under control - bad luck, sounds like you were making progress on a weakness there
Eric the Red - good result, well done! Glad the ankle is giving you less trouble too
leon - what are your repeater counts measuring - cumulative sets, or hangs per session, or something?
karen87 - I find that happens to me with circuits too. Will probably be at Reading Wall mid afternoon (4 or 5 I guess) on Monday, so may run into you there
mattrm - whenver I try and have a good diet it looks like that too - I do several days of discipline and then when it slips it slips big-time
grubes - sounds like a few nice days at Tremadog, hope you had the weather for it
Nexonen - goals are definitely good for motivation. We are a broad church on Fit Club, so don't worry about a lack of climbing for our sakes
viking - bad luck on missing the STG, but a trip to Font should give you the inspiration to sort it out...
Murd - I reckon if it involves incomplete rests between sets and leaves you utterly boxed by the end then its definitely doing somehting good
petestack - hope you've avoided any further bumps and buises this week!
JimmyKay - font!
Eagle River - quiet week. Interesting to see I'm not the only one who has declared open season on trad for the year this sort of time of year. I know what you mean about the rack though - no wonder everything feels harder on gear!
Humperdink - how did the national 12 stage go then?
chris05 - booze can destroy climbing - I got reminded of that this week too...
Miles - back to uni, so stepping up the pace this week hopefully
Curious Yellow - you were looking pretty solid whenever I saw you on 7th aardvark - definite expecting to see you ticking that at Easter. If you can find a way round that one move you looked solid on the rest of HH too
plexiglass_nick - another awesome Malham weekend, as with Cutious Yellow I'm expecting great things from you over Easter
biscuit - great to see youre climbing again. The attitude youve shown to the injury management has been really cool to see, a lesson for all future injureds to learn from How did the first round on Comedy go?
fimm - nice one on getting out climbing again. How the new bike settling in?
jkarran - Curbar is always good at doling out the humiliations isn't it.
Liam M - sounds like a great run Sunday
agibb - enjoy France, see you there in a few weeks
ayuplass - I thought it would be something like that, but it made me smile!
Shauna - did you make Pembroke?
Stone_Donkey - mixing it up a bit with some bouldering this week. Focusing on a good volume of problems (50+) per session seemed to work for some (nick, biscuit, me) in improving flow when climbing, and it can't harm the endurance either.
catt - must be especially frustrating in this weather. Hope you're on the mend soon
Mark Torrance - Berlin, though still keeping miles in
IainRUK - Portugal, again keeping miles in, sounds like a good place for it if the trails are good.
New starters/returners - 1
JSA - welcome. Do you have goals you're working towards? They're a very important part of keeping you motivated to train...
Absentees - 2
Steve Perry (Pezz) - migrated to UKB
Goonie
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (211) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=453229
Repeat posters - 42
AJM
Daniel Heath - bit of a winding down week - hope to see you stepping it up this week
TonyB - sounds like a bad week - inspiring weather and a bust finger. Hope both clear up soon
Kevster - hope that back has recovered
The New NickB - sounds like a good selection of goals hit there
richardh - nice one on Cold Turkey
Niels - hope the skiing conditions got better...
Steve John B - well done on pushing on through on Sunday
Jeriqo - that sounds like reasonable mileage given the constraints. Good luck finishing the house move
andy - good varied week
seankenny - hope you felt good enough to get out in this lovely sunshine
Sankey - good week on both fronts, although I'm sure the grit bouldering season just ended didn't it
andy farnell - sounds like you made the best of it - hope the little one has setled down now
Thickhead - lower mileage than previous weeks, but still out almost every day
Mike Nolan - sounds like youve got the rehab under control - bad luck, sounds like you were making progress on a weakness there
Eric the Red - good result, well done! Glad the ankle is giving you less trouble too
leon - what are your repeater counts measuring - cumulative sets, or hangs per session, or something?
karen87 - I find that happens to me with circuits too. Will probably be at Reading Wall mid afternoon (4 or 5 I guess) on Monday, so may run into you there
mattrm - whenver I try and have a good diet it looks like that too - I do several days of discipline and then when it slips it slips big-time
grubes - sounds like a few nice days at Tremadog, hope you had the weather for it
Nexonen - goals are definitely good for motivation. We are a broad church on Fit Club, so don't worry about a lack of climbing for our sakes
viking - bad luck on missing the STG, but a trip to Font should give you the inspiration to sort it out...
Murd - I reckon if it involves incomplete rests between sets and leaves you utterly boxed by the end then its definitely doing somehting good
petestack - hope you've avoided any further bumps and buises this week!
JimmyKay - font!
Eagle River - quiet week. Interesting to see I'm not the only one who has declared open season on trad for the year this sort of time of year. I know what you mean about the rack though - no wonder everything feels harder on gear!
Humperdink - how did the national 12 stage go then?
chris05 - booze can destroy climbing - I got reminded of that this week too...
Miles - back to uni, so stepping up the pace this week hopefully
Curious Yellow - you were looking pretty solid whenever I saw you on 7th aardvark - definite expecting to see you ticking that at Easter. If you can find a way round that one move you looked solid on the rest of HH too
plexiglass_nick - another awesome Malham weekend, as with Cutious Yellow I'm expecting great things from you over Easter
biscuit - great to see youre climbing again. The attitude youve shown to the injury management has been really cool to see, a lesson for all future injureds to learn from How did the first round on Comedy go?
fimm - nice one on getting out climbing again. How the new bike settling in?
jkarran - Curbar is always good at doling out the humiliations isn't it.
Liam M - sounds like a great run Sunday
agibb - enjoy France, see you there in a few weeks
ayuplass - I thought it would be something like that, but it made me smile!
Shauna - did you make Pembroke?
Stone_Donkey - mixing it up a bit with some bouldering this week. Focusing on a good volume of problems (50+) per session seemed to work for some (nick, biscuit, me) in improving flow when climbing, and it can't harm the endurance either.
catt - must be especially frustrating in this weather. Hope you're on the mend soon
Mark Torrance - Berlin, though still keeping miles in
IainRUK - Portugal, again keeping miles in, sounds like a good place for it if the trails are good.
New starters/returners - 1
JSA - welcome. Do you have goals you're working towards? They're a very important part of keeping you motivated to train...
Absentees - 2
Steve Perry (Pezz) - migrated to UKB
Goonie
Important notice
I'm going away on Friday for a couple of weeks in the South of France. I'm going to need Fit Club volunteers to step up to the plate to keep it running over Easter. There's a load of people who seem to be fairly regularly making their own posts on a Sunday, so I'm really hoping that one of you guys will be able to get the thread started too. Its entirely up to you as to how much time you spend doing stats and things, beyond a very basic minimum (of listing who posted and who didn't - you don't need to make comments if you don't have the time), and if you want any more info on how I do it let me know.
The weeks that will need starting are the thread starting next Sunday (week 213), Easter Sunday (214) and Mayday sunday (215). I would prefer it if someone could do the 8th-odd of May too (216) although I'll be back by then so can do it if noone else can.
Please volunteer on thread if you can do it. Your Fit Club needs you! If no-one else can do this coming Sunday then I can set it going on Friday night, a few days early, but I'd prefer not to if it can be helped.
I'm going away on Friday for a couple of weeks in the South of France. I'm going to need Fit Club volunteers to step up to the plate to keep it running over Easter. There's a load of people who seem to be fairly regularly making their own posts on a Sunday, so I'm really hoping that one of you guys will be able to get the thread started too. Its entirely up to you as to how much time you spend doing stats and things, beyond a very basic minimum (of listing who posted and who didn't - you don't need to make comments if you don't have the time), and if you want any more info on how I do it let me know.
The weeks that will need starting are the thread starting next Sunday (week 213), Easter Sunday (214) and Mayday sunday (215). I would prefer it if someone could do the 8th-odd of May too (216) although I'll be back by then so can do it if noone else can.
Please volunteer on thread if you can do it. Your Fit Club needs you! If no-one else can do this coming Sunday then I can set it going on Friday night, a few days early, but I'd prefer not to if it can be helped.
In reply to AJM:
Indoor/training priorities
<VSTG> - pre-Easter
<STG> - pre-midsummer
<MTG> - 2011
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Avon after work. Did a HS and VS. Lovely sunny evening
T: Went out, aiming to do about 5k on the bike to test my knee. All felt good so ended up doing the best part of 25k instead. Sore a bit towards the end, although I think I've worked out it seems to be triggered by me getting the gears wrong and having, for example, to pull away in too high a gear, the really hard push seems to aggravate the knee. Need to be thinking more about managing the gears I reckon.
F: Booze
S: Wintours Leap. Led a VS, then sunbathed all day (very nice!) until early evening when I seconded my friend on an E2 6a (E4 without the siderunners). Basically it was a V2/3 boulder problem in the sky. Still, after a lot of up-and-downing I got it without any falls which is good.
S: Probably not going to get anything done today, was going to try and go out on the bike again, but I have too many un-moveable things that I need to do today that I don't think there will be the time.
Feels like I've taken a rest week after the end of my mini Yorkshire lime season, which I probably shouldn't have given I'm going to France this Friday. I'm hoping the exertions of Malham will have done something for me, and that by the end of the trip I'll have gained the fitness I need anyway.
Going to get a few sessions in this week hopefully, then France. Want to focus on getting some mid-high 6s onsights and flashes done, and maybe a few quick redpoints in the low 7s if inspiring routes present themselves. Feeling like I don't need to put too much pressure on myself to work things given I think I'm in a pretty good place on the pyramid at the minute, although I've a friend who is coming out for Easter weekend who wants to work some 7a/+ stuff so there could be the chance there to get a few things ticked - any broadening of the number of styles I've done Fr7 in seems like a good thing to me.
Indoor/training priorities
- Laps 4x 6c with re-tie rests
- If bouldering, actually try AeroCap (Gloucester) or circuits (TCA)
- Regular fingerboarding over the year
- Bike odometer record - 407km
<VSTG> - pre-Easter
- Focus primarily on getting mileage in on days out - either pumpy trad or sport onsights
- Get up something at Malham <x4 - tick>
- Maybe sneak a 7a+/b redpoint in if time/partners/etc allows <x2 7a+ - Frankenstein, Hartley Hare>
<STG> - pre-midsummer
- Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 8/8 x 7a, 4/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
- Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape
<MTG> - 2011
- Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
- Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 1x 6c o/s, 3x 6c flash)
- Actually do some DWS this year
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Avon after work. Did a HS and VS. Lovely sunny evening
T: Went out, aiming to do about 5k on the bike to test my knee. All felt good so ended up doing the best part of 25k instead. Sore a bit towards the end, although I think I've worked out it seems to be triggered by me getting the gears wrong and having, for example, to pull away in too high a gear, the really hard push seems to aggravate the knee. Need to be thinking more about managing the gears I reckon.
F: Booze
S: Wintours Leap. Led a VS, then sunbathed all day (very nice!) until early evening when I seconded my friend on an E2 6a (E4 without the siderunners). Basically it was a V2/3 boulder problem in the sky. Still, after a lot of up-and-downing I got it without any falls which is good.
S: Probably not going to get anything done today, was going to try and go out on the bike again, but I have too many un-moveable things that I need to do today that I don't think there will be the time.
Feels like I've taken a rest week after the end of my mini Yorkshire lime season, which I probably shouldn't have given I'm going to France this Friday. I'm hoping the exertions of Malham will have done something for me, and that by the end of the trip I'll have gained the fitness I need anyway.
Going to get a few sessions in this week hopefully, then France. Want to focus on getting some mid-high 6s onsights and flashes done, and maybe a few quick redpoints in the low 7s if inspiring routes present themselves. Feeling like I don't need to put too much pressure on myself to work things given I think I'm in a pretty good place on the pyramid at the minute, although I've a friend who is coming out for Easter weekend who wants to work some 7a/+ stuff so there could be the chance there to get a few things ticked - any broadening of the number of styles I've done Fr7 in seems like a good thing to me.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
That Malham esdcapade sounds fun
Can't do FC stats I'm affraid as I too have some busy long weeks ahead of me. Mostly in the shape of Font and North Wales and somewhere yet to be decided (South wales or south west I hope)
- wish me luck as this weekend wasn't demoralising but did cut me down a bit.
Back is improving, seems I damaged a rib or two, so the back man says. I'm happy with the diagnosis as to cause, but not too sure oesteopaths are the messiah of everything, but they probably know as much as the local GP?
Mon
Tues Indoors leading - managed a few leads, but went easy in volume
Weds
Thur Castle - bouldering was out, lead a few routes, easy night.
Fri
Sat Portland. Better form re back, face climbing suits it better, but got stopper moves on 7a, 7a+ and 7b, all a frustration. Did get 2x bouldery 6c+'s though. Not convinced I have regressed, just routes were towards the harder end of my current ability. Lovely day mind, shorts et al.
Font on Thursday - dream about F7a, happy if climb well. Probably do routes & bouldering on tuesday.
Cheers, Kev
Cheers Andy,
That Malham esdcapade sounds fun
Can't do FC stats I'm affraid as I too have some busy long weeks ahead of me. Mostly in the shape of Font and North Wales and somewhere yet to be decided (South wales or south west I hope)
- wish me luck as this weekend wasn't demoralising but did cut me down a bit.
Back is improving, seems I damaged a rib or two, so the back man says. I'm happy with the diagnosis as to cause, but not too sure oesteopaths are the messiah of everything, but they probably know as much as the local GP?
Mon
Tues Indoors leading - managed a few leads, but went easy in volume
Weds
Thur Castle - bouldering was out, lead a few routes, easy night.
Fri
Sat Portland. Better form re back, face climbing suits it better, but got stopper moves on 7a, 7a+ and 7b, all a frustration. Did get 2x bouldery 6c+'s though. Not convinced I have regressed, just routes were towards the harder end of my current ability. Lovely day mind, shorts et al.
Font on Thursday - dream about F7a, happy if climb well. Probably do routes & bouldering on tuesday.
Cheers, Kev
In reply to AJM:
Hi Andy, I'm going to Font next week so won't be posting anyway but I can do weeks 214-216. I have to admit that I've been pretty busy with work so haven't followed what other people have been doing so my comments might not be so good. I actually switch to working part time then so I should have a little more time on my hands.
It'd be good to put something back into Fitclub.
Tony
Hi Andy, I'm going to Font next week so won't be posting anyway but I can do weeks 214-216. I have to admit that I've been pretty busy with work so haven't followed what other people have been doing so my comments might not be so good. I actually switch to working part time then so I should have a little more time on my hands.
It'd be good to put something back into Fitclub.
Tony
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, glad to know I'm not the only one who feels that way about the circuits, enjoy your session on Monday, I won't climbing as I am working in Picnic that evening.
A very tiring week with a short camping trip to Swanage in scorching heat. Sport grade is still low, its all about head game for me right now. Pleased with bouldering and fingerboard progress.
M - rest
T - Reading Wall: Fingerboard 10min easy session x2, repeated V0/V2 problems
W - Reading Wall: Led solid 5+, worked 6a, flashed V2/V4 project (very pleased!) Swanage: Sport at Hedbury Quarry - OS 'Very Ordinary Route' F2, 'Another Contribution' F2, 'Sea View' F3
T - Swanage: Coastal walk, worked 'War of the Wardens' F5+ (TR) at Dancing Ledge
F - 4 miles canoe trip (Goring to Pangbourne)
S - rest
S - Charity Abseil from Reading's tallest building - The Blade (140ft), possible trip to Reading Wall later
Thanks AJM, glad to know I'm not the only one who feels that way about the circuits, enjoy your session on Monday, I won't climbing as I am working in Picnic that evening.
A very tiring week with a short camping trip to Swanage in scorching heat. Sport grade is still low, its all about head game for me right now. Pleased with bouldering and fingerboard progress.
M - rest
T - Reading Wall: Fingerboard 10min easy session x2, repeated V0/V2 problems
W - Reading Wall: Led solid 5+, worked 6a, flashed V2/V4 project (very pleased!) Swanage: Sport at Hedbury Quarry - OS 'Very Ordinary Route' F2, 'Another Contribution' F2, 'Sea View' F3
T - Swanage: Coastal walk, worked 'War of the Wardens' F5+ (TR) at Dancing Ledge
F - 4 miles canoe trip (Goring to Pangbourne)
S - rest
S - Charity Abseil from Reading's tallest building - The Blade (140ft), possible trip to Reading Wall later
In reply to AJM: Sorry - London marathon next Sunday!
Taper week of steady 5 milers.
M: 5 miles after work - 7:49 pace
T: Ditto - 7:42 pace
W: And another (slower as with a mate) - 8:20 pace
T: In London! Did 5.4m at 7:10 pace (comfortable, which is pleasing given the heat)
F: Yet another 5 miler after work. A bit of pain from my foot, which felt like my laces were done up too tight - very odd.
S: Nothing - took the kids to see Dancing on Bloody Ice
S: Gorgeous, steady 18m bike ride up to Burnsall
So - the last week. Reflections: plenty of mileage (just short of 600 miles since New Year) with 5x20 and 1x23. Decent amount of tempo/effort work too with several 10m midweek runs with 6m of effort in. Almost not pure "speed" work apart from a few 1km efforts. Too fat - expected to lose about 10lbs over the course of the build up but I think I've just eaten more - which is why I suspect sub-3 won't be a goer. I think I've got a PB in me (3:05 or so), and if the weather's hot I'll go for 3:15 which gets me into London for another 2 years.
Taper week of steady 5 milers.
M: 5 miles after work - 7:49 pace
T: Ditto - 7:42 pace
W: And another (slower as with a mate) - 8:20 pace
T: In London! Did 5.4m at 7:10 pace (comfortable, which is pleasing given the heat)
F: Yet another 5 miler after work. A bit of pain from my foot, which felt like my laces were done up too tight - very odd.
S: Nothing - took the kids to see Dancing on Bloody Ice
S: Gorgeous, steady 18m bike ride up to Burnsall
So - the last week. Reflections: plenty of mileage (just short of 600 miles since New Year) with 5x20 and 1x23. Decent amount of tempo/effort work too with several 10m midweek runs with 6m of effort in. Almost not pure "speed" work apart from a few 1km efforts. Too fat - expected to lose about 10lbs over the course of the build up but I think I've just eaten more - which is why I suspect sub-3 won't be a goer. I think I've got a PB in me (3:05 or so), and if the weather's hot I'll go for 3:15 which gets me into London for another 2 years.
In reply to AJM:
M-Rest
T-Press ups and pull ups every hour or so for 6 hours
W-Short hill runs. Short session. Was not prepared for the heat!
T-Climbing at the Grit quarries. Completed Suspense which was a long term goal. Fell off Time for Tea, due to poor route reading and lack of chalk. Will be back.
F-about 50 close arm press ups/2min x3
25min medium intensity run
S-44 to 56 close arm press ups/2min x3
hard pull up pyramid session
S-rest. Hoping the accumulated fatigue from press ups will pay off.
It's interesting to see how my body has adapted to the increased training load of press ups. I can now manage three good efforts in one day and my recovery time is much shorter. Improvement is exciting!
Goal: 72 close arm press ups/2min for maximum points in our fitness test.
Cheers,
Dan
M-Rest
T-Press ups and pull ups every hour or so for 6 hours
W-Short hill runs. Short session. Was not prepared for the heat!
T-Climbing at the Grit quarries. Completed Suspense which was a long term goal. Fell off Time for Tea, due to poor route reading and lack of chalk. Will be back.
F-about 50 close arm press ups/2min x3
25min medium intensity run
S-44 to 56 close arm press ups/2min x3
hard pull up pyramid session
S-rest. Hoping the accumulated fatigue from press ups will pay off.
It's interesting to see how my body has adapted to the increased training load of press ups. I can now manage three good efforts in one day and my recovery time is much shorter. Improvement is exciting!
Goal: 72 close arm press ups/2min for maximum points in our fitness test.
Cheers,
Dan
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony, thats really useful. I was expecting to struggle to find replacements for those weekends most of all!
Anyone able to take on next week?
In reply to Kevster:
Yeah, Malham is fun - was surprised when nick said he had trouble getting Londoners interested actually
Thanks Tony, thats really useful. I was expecting to struggle to find replacements for those weekends most of all!
Anyone able to take on next week?
In reply to Kevster:
Yeah, Malham is fun - was surprised when nick said he had trouble getting Londoners interested actually
In reply to AJM:
Poor week really but typing it out has let me see why.
M - routes at Penrith
T - Rest. Core
W - Boulder at bees
T - core + fingerboard - light work to stimulate finger repair
F -rest
S - Routes at St Bees
S - Rest
Done a bit too much this week i think. On top of climbing stuff work has kicked in big time and i've spent 2 full days out on the fells, done 3 ghyll scrambles and run 30-45 mins every morning with the dog. I didn't really think about it but even at jogging 8mins per mile that's about 30+ miles.
Monday was not a good session. First time on a rope for over a month and i never really got into it. Very shaky warm up and then i was after looking for an AnCap project. An easy 7a i got 2nd time was on the cards but i couldn't do the crux without feeling like i was going to hurt my finger again. The only crimp on the route :0(
Wed bouldering was good and bad. I didn't get much done - got some V4/5 10-12 move AnCap projects sorted out that match Comedy - but discovered that taping my finger is BAD. I really hurt it on a finger stack and thought i had done it some serious damage. When i took the tape off to examine it the pain dropped immediately. I tried a few easy problems out and it felt better. I've climbed without the tape since and it's been great - not un-injured but much less painful. There are still some moves i just can't do.
Yesterday at Bees was very disappointing. I got more drunk than i bargained for the night before and a 2am bed time wasn't good. I ghyll scrambled until 4pm and then went straight to the crag. Recipe for disaster really. 'Warmed up' on a 6b+ that the clips were already in. It felt desperate. Later i got on Dreaming of Red Rocks and i was worse on it than i was 2 yrs ago when i first tried it. But it was a beautiful place to be and i had a laugh while we were there so life is still good.
On the plus side i have moved on with core work. Now doing 250 movements for warm up, 10 kneeling ab wheel rolls, 10 reps of extended tuck on a bar and 40 leg lifts. Feels good but i need to do more of it to keep improvement up.
I've finally got round to doing a proper schedule. I've been aimlessly wandering about this last week. It's going to be really hard to get it done but it'll be worth it.
Quality sleep is the way ahead this week.
Poor week really but typing it out has let me see why.
M - routes at Penrith
T - Rest. Core
W - Boulder at bees
T - core + fingerboard - light work to stimulate finger repair
F -rest
S - Routes at St Bees
S - Rest
Done a bit too much this week i think. On top of climbing stuff work has kicked in big time and i've spent 2 full days out on the fells, done 3 ghyll scrambles and run 30-45 mins every morning with the dog. I didn't really think about it but even at jogging 8mins per mile that's about 30+ miles.
Monday was not a good session. First time on a rope for over a month and i never really got into it. Very shaky warm up and then i was after looking for an AnCap project. An easy 7a i got 2nd time was on the cards but i couldn't do the crux without feeling like i was going to hurt my finger again. The only crimp on the route :0(
Wed bouldering was good and bad. I didn't get much done - got some V4/5 10-12 move AnCap projects sorted out that match Comedy - but discovered that taping my finger is BAD. I really hurt it on a finger stack and thought i had done it some serious damage. When i took the tape off to examine it the pain dropped immediately. I tried a few easy problems out and it felt better. I've climbed without the tape since and it's been great - not un-injured but much less painful. There are still some moves i just can't do.
Yesterday at Bees was very disappointing. I got more drunk than i bargained for the night before and a 2am bed time wasn't good. I ghyll scrambled until 4pm and then went straight to the crag. Recipe for disaster really. 'Warmed up' on a 6b+ that the clips were already in. It felt desperate. Later i got on Dreaming of Red Rocks and i was worse on it than i was 2 yrs ago when i first tried it. But it was a beautiful place to be and i had a laugh while we were there so life is still good.
On the plus side i have moved on with core work. Now doing 250 movements for warm up, 10 kneeling ab wheel rolls, 10 reps of extended tuck on a bar and 40 leg lifts. Feels good but i need to do more of it to keep improvement up.
I've finally got round to doing a proper schedule. I've been aimlessly wandering about this last week. It's going to be really hard to get it done but it'll be worth it.
Quality sleep is the way ahead this week.
Not much to report. A few very gentle bouldering sessions easing back. Finger feels OK but I haven't really tried anything hard. Font on Saturday!
In reply to AJM:
In London next weekend, sorry.
M: Rest
T: 5mile trail run, Sychnant Pass, 320m ascent
W: 5.5mile trail run, Conwy, 180m ascent
T: 7mile beach run
F: Nothing
S: 10.5mile fell run Drum/Fras/Uchaf and Grach from Bwlch, 950m ascent
S: 23mile road run Conwy Valley, 600m ascent
In London next weekend, sorry.
M: Rest
T: 5mile trail run, Sychnant Pass, 320m ascent
W: 5.5mile trail run, Conwy, 180m ascent
T: 7mile beach run
F: Nothing
S: 10.5mile fell run Drum/Fras/Uchaf and Grach from Bwlch, 950m ascent
S: 23mile road run Conwy Valley, 600m ascent
In reply to andy:
Are you in the GFA then? Might see you at the start area if so...
My biggest worry at the moment is how to get to Blackheath on a Sunday morning, not being at all clued with how people live/work in the Capital!
Are you in the GFA then? Might see you at the start area if so...
My biggest worry at the moment is how to get to Blackheath on a Sunday morning, not being at all clued with how people live/work in the Capital!
In reply to AJM:
Not entirely sure what I was talking about last week, I got back yesterday, so would have had all week to post. anyway:
Monday: Skiing
Tuesday: Skiing
Wednesday: Skiing
Thursday: Skiing
Friday: Skiing
Saturday: Got back home and despite having got pissed the night before, and not getting any sleep because I left early, I headed down to almscliff upon arrival, needless to say; disappointing session also had short session at wall beforehand slightly better.
Sunday: Down at Almscliff again, easy soloing - first VS solo - and some harder problems, i think Syretts Roof would have gone in colder weather but won't complain - Next time.
<STG- Pre Easter>
V6 Boulder Outdoors (Progress - last move Crucifix Traverse 2. and Syretts Rf.)
Do more Trad/Soloing/Sport (Progress since New Year - 1 Route/3 Soloes/0 Sport)
VS Solo/Trad (Progress - Tick Solo "The Nose - Almscliff / No Progress Trad)
7C Redpoint Indoors (Current best - 7B O/S)
Not entirely sure what I was talking about last week, I got back yesterday, so would have had all week to post. anyway:
Monday: Skiing
Tuesday: Skiing
Wednesday: Skiing
Thursday: Skiing
Friday: Skiing
Saturday: Got back home and despite having got pissed the night before, and not getting any sleep because I left early, I headed down to almscliff upon arrival, needless to say; disappointing session also had short session at wall beforehand slightly better.
Sunday: Down at Almscliff again, easy soloing - first VS solo - and some harder problems, i think Syretts Roof would have gone in colder weather but won't complain - Next time.
<STG- Pre Easter>
V6 Boulder Outdoors (Progress - last move Crucifix Traverse 2. and Syretts Rf.)
Do more Trad/Soloing/Sport (Progress since New Year - 1 Route/3 Soloes/0 Sport)
VS Solo/Trad (Progress - Tick Solo "The Nose - Almscliff / No Progress Trad)
7C Redpoint Indoors (Current best - 7B O/S)
In reply to AJM:
S -
M -
T - about 16 miles road (mainly) run round lake south of Potsdam. Flat,leafy and mellow.
W - about 5 miles road run flat the other way up the lake
T - am: 5 miles road run flat pm: 4.3 road run minor hill
F - 7.5 road and towpath run, minor hill
S -
S - 22 miles road run, fairly hilly, marathon pace + 38s. Sunny lanes south of Birmingham.
The second half of today's run felt really hard, but given that it fairly hilly, and at the end of a long week, I'm quite pleased with my pace. Oh and that time included a brief stop at the pub.
S -
M -
T - about 16 miles road (mainly) run round lake south of Potsdam. Flat,leafy and mellow.
W - about 5 miles road run flat the other way up the lake
T - am: 5 miles road run flat pm: 4.3 road run minor hill
F - 7.5 road and towpath run, minor hill
S -
S - 22 miles road run, fairly hilly, marathon pace + 38s. Sunny lanes south of Birmingham.
The second half of today's run felt really hard, but given that it fairly hilly, and at the end of a long week, I'm quite pleased with my pace. Oh and that time included a brief stop at the pub.
In reply to AJM:
cheers andy, hope you have a good and productive trip!
M:
T: you know, I have no idea, I think I thought about going to the wall but couldn't find the motivation.
W:
Th: Trollers - first evening session for me of the year - cold again - got Angel Dust - second go since 2005, 7a+ and awkward, pleased with that. got the start moves of Hoodoo Guru sussed - I'm certainly stronger this year, but ran out of juice for a redpoint attempt.
F:
S: family day
Sun: Trow Gill. In good condition all round, got back on "White Knuckle Ride" 7b/7b+, clipped up once, worked it once, went first RP attempt, great improvement on 2 years ago.
encouraging all in all, totally battered now though
cheers andy, hope you have a good and productive trip!
M:
T: you know, I have no idea, I think I thought about going to the wall but couldn't find the motivation.
W:
Th: Trollers - first evening session for me of the year - cold again - got Angel Dust - second go since 2005, 7a+ and awkward, pleased with that. got the start moves of Hoodoo Guru sussed - I'm certainly stronger this year, but ran out of juice for a redpoint attempt.
F:
S: family day
Sun: Trow Gill. In good condition all round, got back on "White Knuckle Ride" 7b/7b+, clipped up once, worked it once, went first RP attempt, great improvement on 2 years ago.
encouraging all in all, totally battered now though
In reply to AJM: More of the same really, bouldering and running.
Good to go for the half marathon now, hopefuly Font, and the following week in San Francisco with work won't destroy too much running fitness.
M: Climbing Works
T:
W: Ran 7.7 miles stanage edge A57-App North
T:
F: Apparent North Bouldering, ticked another V3 traverse (my speciality!)
S: Almscliff Bouldering: Working the Crucifix and Virgin traverses, both good projects for me at V4
S: Ran 10 miles ladybower top section + short session at Higgar East
STG: Font fitness
MTG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours) + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Good to go for the half marathon now, hopefuly Font, and the following week in San Francisco with work won't destroy too much running fitness.
M: Climbing Works
T:
W: Ran 7.7 miles stanage edge A57-App North
T:
F: Apparent North Bouldering, ticked another V3 traverse (my speciality!)
S: Almscliff Bouldering: Working the Crucifix and Virgin traverses, both good projects for me at V4
S: Ran 10 miles ladybower top section + short session at Higgar East
STG: Font fitness
MTG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours) + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
Not a bad week, hardly pulled up any tree¡¦s either. Did get out of some real rock Thursday which was nice, ended up at Wintour's, last pitch was my highest outdoor grade according to the guide book (failed to see how or why?), but was happy with the tick. Been a busy week with one thing and the other so not trained as hard as I would have liked, but rough with the smooth and all that. I¡¦m going to order some bouldering mats this week (Alkpit) with the thought of getting outside and having a play on the real stuff, was thinking of the Roaches maybe for my first pop?...anyone care to give any pointers?... Only climbed once on grit (Stanage¡Kit was like a zoo there) and can¡¦t say I loved it, so figure it might be a opportunity to give it another go. Not got a guide book, pity the new one not out to next month ƒ¼
M: Home bouldering, 2 hours, (general stuff and endurance)
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Win tour¡¦s
F: Log hauling
S: Finger board
S: Home Bouldering 90 min (general stuff and endurance)
STG: Regular on sites of F6b¡¦s and F6c¡¦s
MTG: F7a indoor¡Kget out side more
LTG: E # ¡¥
Thanks Andy,
Not a bad week, hardly pulled up any tree¡¦s either. Did get out of some real rock Thursday which was nice, ended up at Wintour's, last pitch was my highest outdoor grade according to the guide book (failed to see how or why?), but was happy with the tick. Been a busy week with one thing and the other so not trained as hard as I would have liked, but rough with the smooth and all that. I¡¦m going to order some bouldering mats this week (Alkpit) with the thought of getting outside and having a play on the real stuff, was thinking of the Roaches maybe for my first pop?...anyone care to give any pointers?... Only climbed once on grit (Stanage¡Kit was like a zoo there) and can¡¦t say I loved it, so figure it might be a opportunity to give it another go. Not got a guide book, pity the new one not out to next month ƒ¼
M: Home bouldering, 2 hours, (general stuff and endurance)
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Win tour¡¦s
F: Log hauling
S: Finger board
S: Home Bouldering 90 min (general stuff and endurance)
STG: Regular on sites of F6b¡¦s and F6c¡¦s
MTG: F7a indoor¡Kget out side more
LTG: E # ¡¥
In reply to Thickhead:
Yep - red gfa start. Ilkley (red/green) vest, no hair! Probably going off about 7:05 pace - don't think i've got a sub-3 in me at the moment. If it's hot i'll just look for a 3:15 and enjoy the day.
> (In reply to andy)
>
> Are you in the GFA then? Might see you at the start area if so...
>
> My biggest worry at the moment is how to get to Blackheath on a Sunday morning, not being at all clued with how people live/work in the Capital!
>
> Are you in the GFA then? Might see you at the start area if so...
>
> My biggest worry at the moment is how to get to Blackheath on a Sunday morning, not being at all clued with how people live/work in the Capital!
Yep - red gfa start. Ilkley (red/green) vest, no hair! Probably going off about 7:05 pace - don't think i've got a sub-3 in me at the moment. If it's hot i'll just look for a 3:15 and enjoy the day.
In reply to Thickhead:
Just Boris Bike then hop on a train at Charing Cross! Free travel more marathon folk.
> (In reply to andy)
>
>
> My biggest worry at the moment is how to get to Blackheath on a Sunday morning, not being at all clued with how people live/work in the Capital!
Just Boris Bike then hop on a train at Charing Cross! Free travel more marathon folk.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy.
Looking forward to France. Taxi's coming to pick me up at 5am tomorrow!
M - Nothing
T - Routes at the WW, more no-hands.
W - Nothing
T - Bouldering at the castle - easy stuff again. A load of V0s. Surprisingly hard going
F - Beers
S - Nothing
S - Bouldering at Craggy 2.
Next three weeks I don't know if I'll be able to post. Will be dependent upon campsite wifi.
Thanks Andy.
Looking forward to France. Taxi's coming to pick me up at 5am tomorrow!
M - Nothing
T - Routes at the WW, more no-hands.
W - Nothing
T - Bouldering at the castle - easy stuff again. A load of V0s. Surprisingly hard going
F - Beers
S - Nothing
S - Bouldering at Craggy 2.
Next three weeks I don't know if I'll be able to post. Will be dependent upon campsite wifi.
In reply to andy:
Had thought of Charing Cross, not Boris Bike though! I'm staying at Liverpool St.
I'm in the same start area, will be wearing a Meningitis Trust shirt.
Had thought of Charing Cross, not Boris Bike though! I'm staying at Liverpool St.
I'm in the same start area, will be wearing a Meningitis Trust shirt.
In reply to AJM:
Finger feeling a bit better this week. I've not done as much ice treatment as I'd like, but it still feels quite good.
The only climbing I did this week was yesterday, and it was only easy. Did a Moderate solo in Wales. Strayed off onto some VS ground, but I was fine, even with my finger, which is good.
Going to start bouldering again next week. Wish me luck!
Thanks!
Mike
Finger feeling a bit better this week. I've not done as much ice treatment as I'd like, but it still feels quite good.
The only climbing I did this week was yesterday, and it was only easy. Did a Moderate solo in Wales. Strayed off onto some VS ground, but I was fine, even with my finger, which is good.
Going to start bouldering again next week. Wish me luck!
Thanks!
Mike
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the welcome Andy.
Nothing to report this week other than revision for exams that are taking place this week.
called in at the wall to catch up with friends.
STG - Get rid of the niggling little injuries, one in the right shoulder and one in the right knee(which could get worse if I'm not careful!) before I start to train again.
MTG - Get out on the crags and get the mileage in, lots and lots of routes up to and including E1, possibly a few higher grades until I'm climbing fit again.
LTG - Not too sure just yet, I'm due to be a dad in November so plenty of sleepless nights. I'll just have to play the LTG by ear.
Thanks for the welcome Andy.
Nothing to report this week other than revision for exams that are taking place this week.
called in at the wall to catch up with friends.
STG - Get rid of the niggling little injuries, one in the right shoulder and one in the right knee(which could get worse if I'm not careful!) before I start to train again.
MTG - Get out on the crags and get the mileage in, lots and lots of routes up to and including E1, possibly a few higher grades until I'm climbing fit again.
LTG - Not too sure just yet, I'm due to be a dad in November so plenty of sleepless nights. I'll just have to play the LTG by ear.
In reply to AJM:
I almost forgot in my post actually - I decided to splash out on both the Racing weight books in the end, so have been reading them over the last week. Lots of interesting thoughts in there to digest. I think some of the ideas in both could be pretty handy, maybe try to make them a bit more climbing specific (climbing-specific strength training obviously, and also I'm sure a solid aerocap session that gets a good sweat going must get the heart rate to a reasonable level, although I'll have to check) and then use them when the next training phase starts after France - I think my "non outdoor climbing" training is going to revolve around trying to up the cycling volume and move the indoor training to a strength/power phase to partner the endurancey stuff I'll be doing outdoors.
Also got some scales that attempt to measure body fat and all that jazz. Given the past few months have been basically pretty sedentary (the odd cycle but not much else bar sport climbing which isn't exactly CV intensive), the diet has been ok but not perfect and that I have a weakness for snacking at work whenever people bring in cakes, I had expected it to be a lot worse (I've also not shifted the weight I added in November) - I need to do it properly at the right time but my fears of mid-20s percentages seem happily unfounded. Looks like I'm somewhere in high teens percentages, and 10% body fat looks to be about 5-6kg below where I am now. Thats 2kg or so lower than I probably was last summer, but probably with a better body composition. A goal to aim towards, at least.
I almost forgot in my post actually - I decided to splash out on both the Racing weight books in the end, so have been reading them over the last week. Lots of interesting thoughts in there to digest. I think some of the ideas in both could be pretty handy, maybe try to make them a bit more climbing specific (climbing-specific strength training obviously, and also I'm sure a solid aerocap session that gets a good sweat going must get the heart rate to a reasonable level, although I'll have to check) and then use them when the next training phase starts after France - I think my "non outdoor climbing" training is going to revolve around trying to up the cycling volume and move the indoor training to a strength/power phase to partner the endurancey stuff I'll be doing outdoors.
Also got some scales that attempt to measure body fat and all that jazz. Given the past few months have been basically pretty sedentary (the odd cycle but not much else bar sport climbing which isn't exactly CV intensive), the diet has been ok but not perfect and that I have a weakness for snacking at work whenever people bring in cakes, I had expected it to be a lot worse (I've also not shifted the weight I added in November) - I need to do it properly at the right time but my fears of mid-20s percentages seem happily unfounded. Looks like I'm somewhere in high teens percentages, and 10% body fat looks to be about 5-6kg below where I am now. Thats 2kg or so lower than I probably was last summer, but probably with a better body composition. A goal to aim towards, at least.
In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM. I could start next week's if no-one else has volunteered yet. Wouldn't be much in the way of comments though.
Another mixed week:
Mon-Sat - not much, few half-hearted core exercises.
Sun - 13 mile/3400' run in lakes, anniversary waltz route. blew up BIG time after maiden moor and had to head down towards the lake. very hard work from then on (and mostly walking). my fingers swelled up like sausages too which was somewhat disconcerting...
Another mixed week:
Mon-Sat - not much, few half-hearted core exercises.
Sun - 13 mile/3400' run in lakes, anniversary waltz route. blew up BIG time after maiden moor and had to head down towards the lake. very hard work from then on (and mostly walking). my fingers swelled up like sausages too which was somewhat disconcerting...
In reply to AJM: Another fairly unsuccessful week :/
Mon-Wed: Nothing
Thursday: Went for a run, only a few km but hoping to keep doing this on non-climbing days
Friday: Climbing - most of the stuff I was doing was new and hadn't been graded yet but I reckon none of it was harder than 6b/6b+. Managed to pack quite a few routes into a relatively short (90 minute) session though wish I liked.
Weekend: Nothing
Plans for next week are to hunt more actively for climbing partners, run more and if the worst comes to the worst, boulder.
Mon-Wed: Nothing
Thursday: Went for a run, only a few km but hoping to keep doing this on non-climbing days
Friday: Climbing - most of the stuff I was doing was new and hadn't been graded yet but I reckon none of it was harder than 6b/6b+. Managed to pack quite a few routes into a relatively short (90 minute) session though wish I liked.
Weekend: Nothing
Plans for next week are to hunt more actively for climbing partners, run more and if the worst comes to the worst, boulder.
In reply to AJM:
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+ outside
RP 6c or above indoors
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: ROKT session. Then taking photos for the varsity comp
T: Holmfirth. good 2hour session. Worked a V6 felt geasy but got really close to doing it. V6 in the guide but I reccon that generous. Split several tips on sharp crimps.
F: Holmfirth. 2hours. Bad skin felt tired. lazy session enjoying the sun.
S: rest
S: Pule 5 hours. Light session taking beginners for trad. Hardest thing I climbed was traversing leprosy wall. second up to HS. Lead 1xS onsight.
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
An easy week again. It felt a bit hot to be climbing on sunday and still had bad tips.
> grubes - sounds like a few nice days at Tremadog, hope you had the weather for it
Thanks AJM got in two nice days.STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+ outside
RP 6c or above indoors
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: ROKT session. Then taking photos for the varsity comp
T: Holmfirth. good 2hour session. Worked a V6 felt geasy but got really close to doing it. V6 in the guide but I reccon that generous. Split several tips on sharp crimps.
F: Holmfirth. 2hours. Bad skin felt tired. lazy session enjoying the sun.
S: rest
S: Pule 5 hours. Light session taking beginners for trad. Hardest thing I climbed was traversing leprosy wall. second up to HS. Lead 1xS onsight.
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
An easy week again. It felt a bit hot to be climbing on sunday and still had bad tips.
In reply to AJM:
Yes, I made Pembroke! What an awesome 4 days it was too to kick off the trad season. Led Strait Gate, Manzoku, Lucky Strike and B-team buttress, which were all great. My climbing partner led a load of other classics too so it felt like a brilliant 4 days. If only the weather would stay like this all summer...
I think the routes training has really helped me get straight back in to having the endurance tohang around fiddling in gear, so I'm really going to try hard to keep it up this summer. I'm thinking E2 might be possible this summer ifI keep up the indoor and outdoor stuff over the next few months.
Did little other training this week apart from a routes session on Monday. Hope you have a great trip away. I could start fit club this weekend I think, although it might have to be Saturday night not Sunday?
Yes, I made Pembroke! What an awesome 4 days it was too to kick off the trad season. Led Strait Gate, Manzoku, Lucky Strike and B-team buttress, which were all great. My climbing partner led a load of other classics too so it felt like a brilliant 4 days. If only the weather would stay like this all summer...
I think the routes training has really helped me get straight back in to having the endurance tohang around fiddling in gear, so I'm really going to try hard to keep it up this summer. I'm thinking E2 might be possible this summer ifI keep up the indoor and outdoor stuff over the next few months.
Did little other training this week apart from a routes session on Monday. Hope you have a great trip away. I could start fit club this weekend I think, although it might have to be Saturday night not Sunday?
In reply to SV and Steve John B:
Guys - you've both volunteered to get Fit Club started this week coming......... I'll leave it up to you to decide which does it, but thanks both of you for volunteering.
Shauna - glad you had fun in Pembs - I've still yet to do a bunch of the ones on your list (the only one I've done, embarassingly, is Manzoku), but its hard not to have fun on the classic Pembroke routes If you've not done them then Rock Idol, Wishful Thinking and the Arrow are probably the best of the ones I've done there (plus Manzoku of course which is ace).
Guys - you've both volunteered to get Fit Club started this week coming......... I'll leave it up to you to decide which does it, but thanks both of you for volunteering.
Shauna - glad you had fun in Pembs - I've still yet to do a bunch of the ones on your list (the only one I've done, embarassingly, is Manzoku), but its hard not to have fun on the classic Pembroke routes If you've not done them then Rock Idol, Wishful Thinking and the Arrow are probably the best of the ones I've done there (plus Manzoku of course which is ace).
In reply to AJM:
Which scales did you get? I've been thinking about getting some which do body fat etc.
> (In reply to AJM)
>
>
>
> Also got some scales that attempt to measure body fat and all that jazz.
> Also got some scales that attempt to measure body fat and all that jazz.
Which scales did you get? I've been thinking about getting some which do body fat etc.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (7/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 20 mins stretches and exercise
T - Rest
F - 20 mins stretches and exercise
S - Rest
S - 3k run
Running has made a welcome addition to my exercise this week. The foot seems to be better and I'm happy to be back out running. Ate badly over the weekend, so hope to have a good diet week. Along with some steady running, hopefully I'll drop a few more pounds. I'll really build things up slow this time, I couldn't cope with another month of no running, it's dead annoying. I didn't weigh myself at the normal time, so I'm telling my self that's the reason for the weight gain, but I think that the wedding that I went to on Saturday and the Sunday roast have more to do with it than I want to admit.
Thanks AJM.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (7/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 20 mins stretches and exercise
T - Rest
F - 20 mins stretches and exercise
S - Rest
S - 3k run
Running has made a welcome addition to my exercise this week. The foot seems to be better and I'm happy to be back out running. Ate badly over the weekend, so hope to have a good diet week. Along with some steady running, hopefully I'll drop a few more pounds. I'll really build things up slow this time, I couldn't cope with another month of no running, it's dead annoying. I didn't weigh myself at the normal time, so I'm telling my self that's the reason for the weight gain, but I think that the wedding that I went to on Saturday and the Sunday roast have more to do with it than I want to admit.
In reply to AJM:
Steve, as you volunteered first, I'll leave it to you. I'll volunteeR some other time instead.
They are all brilliant actual - I thought strat gate was easier than manzoku. I've led rock idol, but wishful thinking is a good tip - thanks!
> (In reply to Shauna and Steve John B)
>
> Guys - you've both volunteered to get Fit Club started this week coming......... I'll leave it up to you to decide which does it, but thanks both of you for volunteering.
>
> Guys - you've both volunteered to get Fit Club started this week coming......... I'll leave it up to you to decide which does it, but thanks both of you for volunteering.
Steve, as you volunteered first, I'll leave it to you. I'll volunteeR some other time instead.
>
> Shauna - glad you had fun in Pembs - I've still yet to do a bunch of the ones on your list (the only one I've done, embarassingly, is Manzoku), but its hard not to have fun on the classic Pembroke routes If you've not done them then Rock Idol, Wishful Thinking and the Arrow are probably the best of the ones I've done there (plus Manzoku of course which iace).
> Shauna - glad you had fun in Pembs - I've still yet to do a bunch of the ones on your list (the only one I've done, embarassingly, is Manzoku), but its hard not to have fun on the classic Pembroke routes If you've not done them then Rock Idol, Wishful Thinking and the Arrow are probably the best of the ones I've done there (plus Manzoku of course which iace).
They are all brilliant actual - I thought strat gate was easier than manzoku. I've led rock idol, but wishful thinking is a good tip - thanks!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
STG (by end of September): E2 in a lancs quarry
MTG: (by end of 2011): 7b+ (possibly space race at Malham)
Mon: routes indoors - not a bad session but was taking things easy due to dodgy ring finger on right hand.
Tues: routes indoors - Finger felt tender after monday so did some lapping of routes but again not a very tough session.
Thurs: trad bimbling - finger felt worse after cold water treatment on wednesday so took it easy with some trad around HVS.
If it stays dry this week will see more trad routes, hopefully back into the E grades when my finger feels better. Need to hit the cold water treatment more regularly as I've been a bit lazy with it.
Thanks Andy,
STG (by end of September): E2 in a lancs quarry
MTG: (by end of 2011): 7b+ (possibly space race at Malham)
Mon: routes indoors - not a bad session but was taking things easy due to dodgy ring finger on right hand.
Tues: routes indoors - Finger felt tender after monday so did some lapping of routes but again not a very tough session.
Thurs: trad bimbling - finger felt worse after cold water treatment on wednesday so took it easy with some trad around HVS.
If it stays dry this week will see more trad routes, hopefully back into the E grades when my finger feels better. Need to hit the cold water treatment more regularly as I've been a bit lazy with it.
In reply to SV:
Ok, ta.
> (In reply to AJM)
> [...]
>
> Steve, as you volunteered first, I'll leave it to you. I'll volunteeR some other time instead.
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Steve, as you volunteered first, I'll leave it to you. I'll volunteeR some other time instead.
> [...]
>
Ok, ta.
Thanks AJM.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B
M: 3xDB complex, 8m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, BM: max hangs and pull-ups, core (500) & theraband
W: 3xDB complex, 7m run, core (300) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex,BM: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
F: rest
S: working but managed quick BM session: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & approx 7m trail run
Better week of training, managed to avoid the booze (mostly!). Have started concentrating on one arm locks on the fingerboard which feels pretty intense. Unsurprisingly I still have some way to go before I can do Jerry's traverse!
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B
M: 3xDB complex, 8m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, BM: max hangs and pull-ups, core (500) & theraband
W: 3xDB complex, 7m run, core (300) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex,BM: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
F: rest
S: working but managed quick BM session: pull-ups and max hangs, core (500) & theraband
S: bouldering at cratcliffe & approx 7m trail run
Better week of training, managed to avoid the booze (mostly!). Have started concentrating on one arm locks on the fingerboard which feels pretty intense. Unsurprisingly I still have some way to go before I can do Jerry's traverse!
Thank you AJM:
Upcoming races:
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
Was only the climbing wall, I'm afraid... Bit of a light week due to going to Lisbon for the weekend for the bloke's father's birthday.
M: cycled to and from work
Tu: about 30 minutes on turbo on TT bike - useful for tweaking the position.
W: cycled to work in wind and rain - got soaked. Did club swim in the evening.
Th: ran 1h15 - was supposed to be to heart rate but my heart rate monitor died, so ran to effort, which means I probably went faster. Really enjoyed the run. Flew to Lisbon.
F: nothing (in Lisbon)
Sa: nothing (in Lisbon)
Su: flew home. PM took TT bike out again. I'm a little more confident on it, I think, but I'm still struggling to get into the aero position and then really put some effort in! I went to the place we use for the triathlon club informal time trials, where there is a 2.5 mile loop. I've done one loop in less than 7.5 minutes, my best effort yesterday was 8.5 minutes... I might possibly be able to do that on my mountian bike! I think I will race Sunday's triathlon on my road bike.
Upcoming races:
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
> fimm - nice one on getting out climbing again. How the new bike settling in?
Was only the climbing wall, I'm afraid... Bit of a light week due to going to Lisbon for the weekend for the bloke's father's birthday.
M: cycled to and from work
Tu: about 30 minutes on turbo on TT bike - useful for tweaking the position.
W: cycled to work in wind and rain - got soaked. Did club swim in the evening.
Th: ran 1h15 - was supposed to be to heart rate but my heart rate monitor died, so ran to effort, which means I probably went faster. Really enjoyed the run. Flew to Lisbon.
F: nothing (in Lisbon)
Sa: nothing (in Lisbon)
Su: flew home. PM took TT bike out again. I'm a little more confident on it, I think, but I'm still struggling to get into the aero position and then really put some effort in! I went to the place we use for the triathlon club informal time trials, where there is a 2.5 mile loop. I've done one loop in less than 7.5 minutes, my best effort yesterday was 8.5 minutes... I might possibly be able to do that on my mountian bike! I think I will race Sunday's triathlon on my road bike.
In reply to andy & Thickhead: Good luck to both of you for next Sunday - I'll be there but not running!
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM– Good Luck out in France – enjoy!
Goals:
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May sub 33min 10K.
This weeks goal: Run well at National 12 Stage
Mon: pm Weights* + Steady run off road, 7M in 46:07 felt tired
Tue: lunch physio exercises* pm 8 x 3½ minutes with reducing recovery (60/55/50/45/40/35/30 seconds jog) 2M warm-up/ cool down – felt pretty good. 10M total.
Wed: am 32mins easy, lunch physio exercises pm Weights + 8M steady on road in 55:18 – felt shattered!
Thurs: Rest
Fri: am 5M steady in 35:03 + strides – felt much better although glutes sore.
Sat: National 12 Stage Relays at Sutton Park – glorious weather but ended up leg 12 as usual so had to wait around a long time to run. Wasn’t near anyone so ended up running solo all the way round but was still pleased to get 15:39 for just under 5K. It’s a hilly course though so according to the team manager (who knows these things!) it “runs like a track 5K”. I’d be happy if I ran that time on the track! In the end we didn’t do that well as we didn’t have our best team out – 15th Team Overall.
Sun: Nice steady off road run 11/12M in 1:20:29 – felt surprisingly good after yesterdays’ race.
Total ~52M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
Pleased with my run on Saturday and now looking forward to the rest of the year with some optimism. Will update goals soon.
Goals:
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May sub 33min 10K.
This weeks goal: Run well at National 12 Stage
Mon: pm Weights* + Steady run off road, 7M in 46:07 felt tired
Tue: lunch physio exercises* pm 8 x 3½ minutes with reducing recovery (60/55/50/45/40/35/30 seconds jog) 2M warm-up/ cool down – felt pretty good. 10M total.
Wed: am 32mins easy, lunch physio exercises pm Weights + 8M steady on road in 55:18 – felt shattered!
Thurs: Rest
Fri: am 5M steady in 35:03 + strides – felt much better although glutes sore.
Sat: National 12 Stage Relays at Sutton Park – glorious weather but ended up leg 12 as usual so had to wait around a long time to run. Wasn’t near anyone so ended up running solo all the way round but was still pleased to get 15:39 for just under 5K. It’s a hilly course though so according to the team manager (who knows these things!) it “runs like a track 5K”. I’d be happy if I ran that time on the track! In the end we didn’t do that well as we didn’t have our best team out – 15th Team Overall.
Sun: Nice steady off road run 11/12M in 1:20:29 – felt surprisingly good after yesterdays’ race.
Total ~52M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
Pleased with my run on Saturday and now looking forward to the rest of the year with some optimism. Will update goals soon.
In reply to AJM:
Have a brilliant time in France!
I'd be well pleased to get 7th Aardvark. I'd like to try Space Race too I think, though that's a bit overambitious.
Mon – Rest
Tues – Arch. 1x V3. Tunnel: 6a and 6b+/c, 6c+ in 2 sections and 7a+ in 3 sections. Play stopped by blistered fingers!
Wedns – Castle. Bouldering up to V2, then fell off side wall onto slab but luckily failed to break my leg… stopped bouldering and did some frenchies and pressups instead.
Thurs – Rest
Fri – Fingerboard and campus. Offset pullups.
Sat – Arch. Long easy session. 6x V3. 7a+ in 2 sections. Brutal 30 min bodyweight workout.
Sun – Bowles. 8 pitches up to 5b and one go on Banana (6a). A lot of overgripping, sandstone technique very rusty!
Have a brilliant time in France!
I'd be well pleased to get 7th Aardvark. I'd like to try Space Race too I think, though that's a bit overambitious.
Mon – Rest
Tues – Arch. 1x V3. Tunnel: 6a and 6b+/c, 6c+ in 2 sections and 7a+ in 3 sections. Play stopped by blistered fingers!
Wedns – Castle. Bouldering up to V2, then fell off side wall onto slab but luckily failed to break my leg… stopped bouldering and did some frenchies and pressups instead.
Thurs – Rest
Fri – Fingerboard and campus. Offset pullups.
Sat – Arch. Long easy session. 6x V3. 7a+ in 2 sections. Brutal 30 min bodyweight workout.
Sun – Bowles. 8 pitches up to 5b and one go on Banana (6a). A lot of overgripping, sandstone technique very rusty!
Cheers
Mon - nothing
Tue - nothing
Wed - nadda
Thu - 9 miles fell run Snowdon
Fri - nowt
Sat - 10 miles recceing Moelwyns route
Sun - 6 miles trail run
A slow start to this week but looking forward to race next weekend hopefully nice weather
Mon - nothing
Tue - nothing
Wed - nadda
Thu - 9 miles fell run Snowdon
Fri - nowt
Sat - 10 miles recceing Moelwyns route
Sun - 6 miles trail run
A slow start to this week but looking forward to race next weekend hopefully nice weather
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, Andy, but no lasting damage and no more accidents! So ultimately just a decent week 'stealing' two days from biblical downpours, grabbing a good, dry, Saturday hill run en route to my cousin's wedding party (same evening) in Edinburgh and now thinking about a lighter week easing up for a day or two before the Highlander...
M: [60.9] Rest
T: [61.3] 2 x big laps, 5.8 miles (late, wet)
W: [66.2] Camas na h-Eirghe, 9.5 miles hilly road (steady out, fartlek back, wetter!)
T: [65.8] An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's + reverse big lap, 9.5 miles/1,700 ft (dry but windy)
F: [71.3] Altnafeadh, 12.1 miles/3,200 ft
S: [62.1] High-level circuit of Glen Turret (1 Corbett, 1 Munro + more), 12.7 miles/3,700 ft
S: [49.8] Not much (little bit of walking aka 'rest')
Current Goals (now acknowledging that my 2010–11 winter is over):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> petestack - hope you've avoided any further bumps and buises this week!
Thanks, Andy, but no lasting damage and no more accidents! So ultimately just a decent week 'stealing' two days from biblical downpours, grabbing a good, dry, Saturday hill run en route to my cousin's wedding party (same evening) in Edinburgh and now thinking about a lighter week easing up for a day or two before the Highlander...
M: [60.9] Rest
T: [61.3] 2 x big laps, 5.8 miles (late, wet)
W: [66.2] Camas na h-Eirghe, 9.5 miles hilly road (steady out, fartlek back, wetter!)
T: [65.8] An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's + reverse big lap, 9.5 miles/1,700 ft (dry but windy)
F: [71.3] Altnafeadh, 12.1 miles/3,200 ft
S: [62.1] High-level circuit of Glen Turret (1 Corbett, 1 Munro + more), 12.7 miles/3,700 ft
S: [49.8] Not much (little bit of walking aka 'rest')
Current Goals (now acknowledging that my 2010–11 winter is over):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, have an awesome time in France. You're going really well at the moment - hope you get some good stuff done.
Bid of a poor week for me. My two weeks of maxed out anaerobic endurance hasn't really worked out that way. Sore skin has limited the circuits I can do on the crimp wall, bit of a quandry as I need both skin AND endurance for the malham trip. Have also been trying to catch up a bit with my work so not been at the wall as much as I'd hoped. And I've been slack with maintenance on the weights. Hmm. Better week this week.
M: Rotator cuff stuff: DB External rotations
T: Prone cobras, push ups, scapular wall slides
W: Castle - Pen set - did V4 and V5. Anaerobic endurance circuit - doing a weird hybrid interval set of 2xCZ(crimpy tech ~7a+) with a shake, 1m rest, RZ (steep undercutty ~v4/5), 1m rest. Powering out on RZ which is probably hitting the right zone. 3x attempts, 10m recovery. Sore skin.
T: push ups, prone cobras, one-arm-one-leg bridges.
F: push ups (various), DB external rotations. Castle - boulder. Attempting endurancy orange v5, 1x blue flash. circuits on wave wall and crimp circuit. sore skin stops play.
S: Osteo for shoulders. Feel much better. Given some new stretches - new focus on stretching upper traps and back definitely seems to make a difference.
S: Castle - new probs on features, V5 and 2x blues (v4?) Intervals on med-intensity circuit CZ - 4x 2 laps with a shake, 2m rest. Definitely some progress. Hope it's not too little, too late...
Daily - stretching: focussing on shoulders, psoas and glutes, widening focus on hamstrings and traps from Sunday.
Immediate Goals: Space Race & Chiselling The Dragon and another route >7b+ at Malham/Easter
Cheers Andy, have an awesome time in France. You're going really well at the moment - hope you get some good stuff done.
Bid of a poor week for me. My two weeks of maxed out anaerobic endurance hasn't really worked out that way. Sore skin has limited the circuits I can do on the crimp wall, bit of a quandry as I need both skin AND endurance for the malham trip. Have also been trying to catch up a bit with my work so not been at the wall as much as I'd hoped. And I've been slack with maintenance on the weights. Hmm. Better week this week.
M: Rotator cuff stuff: DB External rotations
T: Prone cobras, push ups, scapular wall slides
W: Castle - Pen set - did V4 and V5. Anaerobic endurance circuit - doing a weird hybrid interval set of 2xCZ(crimpy tech ~7a+) with a shake, 1m rest, RZ (steep undercutty ~v4/5), 1m rest. Powering out on RZ which is probably hitting the right zone. 3x attempts, 10m recovery. Sore skin.
T: push ups, prone cobras, one-arm-one-leg bridges.
F: push ups (various), DB external rotations. Castle - boulder. Attempting endurancy orange v5, 1x blue flash. circuits on wave wall and crimp circuit. sore skin stops play.
S: Osteo for shoulders. Feel much better. Given some new stretches - new focus on stretching upper traps and back definitely seems to make a difference.
S: Castle - new probs on features, V5 and 2x blues (v4?) Intervals on med-intensity circuit CZ - 4x 2 laps with a shake, 2m rest. Definitely some progress. Hope it's not too little, too late...
Daily - stretching: focussing on shoulders, psoas and glutes, widening focus on hamstrings and traps from Sunday.
Immediate Goals: Space Race & Chiselling The Dragon and another route >7b+ at Malham/Easter
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy, the little'un is on the mend.
Mon - Hangar, lots of volume, did some more whites
Tue - rest
Wed - 45mins fingerboard
Thurs - rest
Fri - fingerboard - 45 mins
Sat - Hangar, big lad was at the kids club so I did 1.45 mins of volume.
Sun - Longridge. Spent 2+ hrs throwing myself off Big Marine, repeatedly missing the last move, felt battered afterwards.
Andy F
Mon - Hangar, lots of volume, did some more whites
Tue - rest
Wed - 45mins fingerboard
Thurs - rest
Fri - fingerboard - 45 mins
Sat - Hangar, big lad was at the kids club so I did 1.45 mins of volume.
Sun - Longridge. Spent 2+ hrs throwing myself off Big Marine, repeatedly missing the last move, felt battered afterwards.
Andy F
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy
In a slight lull phase at the moment, achieved all but one of my four short term objectives, the one I did not manage was the sub 19 minute 5k, but I did get my time down from 20:53 at the start of the year to 19:04, hopefully the sub 19 won't be too far off.
I am having a couple of easy weeks before working out my short term goals and maybe tweaking my longer term goals.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 5.5 mile steady hilly trail run.
Wednesday - 5k race. Hamstring felt very tight at half way, so decided to stretch it and just jog to the finish. It was fine the next day, but it wasn't an important race, so I did not want to risk it.
Thursday - 5.5 mile already hilly tail run.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Wardle Skyline fell race 7 miles /1250' 1:02:18. Reasonable performance, suffered a bit with the heat.
Sunday - Rest.
Thanks Andy
In a slight lull phase at the moment, achieved all but one of my four short term objectives, the one I did not manage was the sub 19 minute 5k, but I did get my time down from 20:53 at the start of the year to 19:04, hopefully the sub 19 won't be too far off.
I am having a couple of easy weeks before working out my short term goals and maybe tweaking my longer term goals.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 5.5 mile steady hilly trail run.
Wednesday - 5k race. Hamstring felt very tight at half way, so decided to stretch it and just jog to the finish. It was fine the next day, but it wasn't an important race, so I did not want to risk it.
Thursday - 5.5 mile already hilly tail run.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Wardle Skyline fell race 7 miles /1250' 1:02:18. Reasonable performance, suffered a bit with the heat.
Sunday - Rest.
In reply to AJM: Appointment Wednesday, could get the cast off...
m: 3.4 mile road run, 6:20 pace
t: 6 mile trail run algarve, pm: 3.4 mile road run 6:15 pace.
w: 6 mile trail run algarve. 4 mile road run lisbon.
t: 13.5 mile trail run algarve
f: 3.6 mile road run
s: Mourne Peaks British Fell running champs, 32nd, 2:27, quicker than last time, but different route slightly but happy enough with run considering cast.
s: 5 mile beach run
m: 3.4 mile road run, 6:20 pace
t: 6 mile trail run algarve, pm: 3.4 mile road run 6:15 pace.
w: 6 mile trail run algarve. 4 mile road run lisbon.
t: 13.5 mile trail run algarve
f: 3.6 mile road run
s: Mourne Peaks British Fell running champs, 32nd, 2:27, quicker than last time, but different route slightly but happy enough with run considering cast.
s: 5 mile beach run
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. Had a reasonable week which was interrupted by work and travelling:
M - Nothing
T - Swim
W - Nothing
T - Swim and Tennis (twice!)
F - Nothing (travelling)
S - Sea swimming and trad climbing in cornwall
S - Sea swimming - with wetsuit but still very cold on hands and feet!
Swimming in the sea was hard because it was too cold to stick my head under water. Got to get used to it soon though!
Thanks Andy. Had a reasonable week which was interrupted by work and travelling:
M - Nothing
T - Swim
W - Nothing
T - Swim and Tennis (twice!)
F - Nothing (travelling)
S - Sea swimming and trad climbing in cornwall
S - Sea swimming - with wetsuit but still very cold on hands and feet!
Swimming in the sea was hard because it was too cold to stick my head under water. Got to get used to it soon though!
In reply to mattrm:
Some Salter ones, "Bodywise Stainless steel analyser scale", from Argos, about £30. Probably not the best ones in the world, but they'll do the job. You can get them a bit cheaper but I thought I'd get the ones that try and calculate your BMR....
By the way, there's a video online now on Vimeo of Adam Ondra onsighting an 8c+ called Mind Control at Oliana. Well worth a look for anyone who wants to see someone making a route of that difficulty climb better and smoother onsight than I would a 6b+ I'd extensively worked Some seriously swift decision making and smooth climbing, very impressive.
Some Salter ones, "Bodywise Stainless steel analyser scale", from Argos, about £30. Probably not the best ones in the world, but they'll do the job. You can get them a bit cheaper but I thought I'd get the ones that try and calculate your BMR....
By the way, there's a video online now on Vimeo of Adam Ondra onsighting an 8c+ called Mind Control at Oliana. Well worth a look for anyone who wants to see someone making a route of that difficulty climb better and smoother onsight than I would a 6b+ I'd extensively worked Some seriously swift decision making and smooth climbing, very impressive.
In reply to AJM:
STG: Repeaters 50 (done, 113)
MTG: Repeaters 190 for the period (done, 235)
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus: Hypertrophy 2/3
Mon: Core(322). Chest & Back(236)
Tue: Repeaters(54).
Wed: Ill.
Thu: Repeaters(31). Chest & Back(89)
Fri: Travel to Brighton.
Sat: Brighton
Sun: Repeaters(32).
AJM, I score each set of repeaters from 1(failure early in the set) to 6(too easy, time to move on). I set some poor targets last weekend as I breezed them this week & I had a poor week due to illness, travel, knacking a back muscle & boozing.
Next week I'll leave the fingerboard & do some VIR training.
STG: 60 points in one of the VIR sessions. Get out on some real rock.
STG: Repeaters 50 (done, 113)
MTG: Repeaters 190 for the period (done, 235)
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus: Hypertrophy 2/3
Mon: Core(322). Chest & Back(236)
Tue: Repeaters(54).
Wed: Ill.
Thu: Repeaters(31). Chest & Back(89)
Fri: Travel to Brighton.
Sat: Brighton
Sun: Repeaters(32).
AJM, I score each set of repeaters from 1(failure early in the set) to 6(too easy, time to move on). I set some poor targets last weekend as I breezed them this week & I had a poor week due to illness, travel, knacking a back muscle & boozing.
Next week I'll leave the fingerboard & do some VIR training.
STG: 60 points in one of the VIR sessions. Get out on some real rock.
In reply to AJM:
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: nothing
Tue: 6k run
Wed: nothing
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - up to V4/V5
Fri: nothing
Sat: nothing - visiting family
Sun: nothing - visiting family
bit of a quiet week again! will pull my sleeves up a bit this week - going to north wales for easter - fingers crossed for the weather!
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: nothing
Tue: 6k run
Wed: nothing
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - up to V4/V5
Fri: nothing
Sat: nothing - visiting family
Sun: nothing - visiting family
bit of a quiet week again! will pull my sleeves up a bit this week - going to north wales for easter - fingers crossed for the weather!
In reply to AJM: Cheers
Mon: 1.25k easy swim
Tue: 7k easy run
Wed: 38k steady cycle, followed shortly by 9k run, getting faster throughout. Not quite a brick, as a short pause in between, but still quick enough for my legs to feel heavy for first 3k or so.
Thu: 14k steady run. Legs felt good, but guts otherwise
Fri: 50k cycle. First half very flat and fast, second half included a couple of sharp climbs through Malverns.
Sat: Cycle to and from Park run (c15k), 5k Hyde Park Park Run, 20.31. Rather suprised as this matches my 5k pb, despite my legs feeling really heavy for the first half or so. Only 5k I've ever run where I got faster throughout - I normally die at about 3k mark.
Sun: Baildon Boundary Way off-road Half Marathon, 1.48. Happy enough with this, as most people seem to finish about 15-20mins slower than their road times, and it was rather warm.
Decent week, starting to get a bit more of a cross-training element, which I believe from past experience works best for me. Rather happy with the 5k, as there hasn't been a huge amount of speed work lately, and not training with a club means I may not find myself 'racing' someone on a regular basis, so was worried although endurance may have increased, pure speed would have wained. Managing to match my 5k pb on heavy legs suggests that isn't the case.
Sunday was a weird one. BBW fills up very early, and I didn't have a place, but H did, so I intended to go along, do my own relaxed run and find somewhere on course to cheer them on. Instead, 20mins before the start, our club chairman walked past and happened to mention that he had a spare number he was intending to hand back to the organisers, but as there was an on the day number transfer procedure I somehow ended up with the number pinned to me!
It didn't make for perfect preparation, but I decided to take it steady, and ease the pace up depending upon how I felt. I found it rather warm, especially along a long canal section, and mild dehydration made it uncomfortable coming through 16k or so.
Although it wasn't a full on race effort (or preparation) I think the thing that struck me most afterward was that I could manage a respectable half marathon performance (compared to my pb) at very short notice (i.e. enough time to sort my waist pack and jog to the start). I could not have imagined something like that a few years ago, and it's making me a little grinny just thinking about it!
Alas I don't think the next major race will succumb quite so easily, but I'm reasonably confident unless something drastic happens between now and then, or it's a baking hot day, that I can manage a decent 3 Peaks performance.
Mon: 1.25k easy swim
Tue: 7k easy run
Wed: 38k steady cycle, followed shortly by 9k run, getting faster throughout. Not quite a brick, as a short pause in between, but still quick enough for my legs to feel heavy for first 3k or so.
Thu: 14k steady run. Legs felt good, but guts otherwise
Fri: 50k cycle. First half very flat and fast, second half included a couple of sharp climbs through Malverns.
Sat: Cycle to and from Park run (c15k), 5k Hyde Park Park Run, 20.31. Rather suprised as this matches my 5k pb, despite my legs feeling really heavy for the first half or so. Only 5k I've ever run where I got faster throughout - I normally die at about 3k mark.
Sun: Baildon Boundary Way off-road Half Marathon, 1.48. Happy enough with this, as most people seem to finish about 15-20mins slower than their road times, and it was rather warm.
Decent week, starting to get a bit more of a cross-training element, which I believe from past experience works best for me. Rather happy with the 5k, as there hasn't been a huge amount of speed work lately, and not training with a club means I may not find myself 'racing' someone on a regular basis, so was worried although endurance may have increased, pure speed would have wained. Managing to match my 5k pb on heavy legs suggests that isn't the case.
Sunday was a weird one. BBW fills up very early, and I didn't have a place, but H did, so I intended to go along, do my own relaxed run and find somewhere on course to cheer them on. Instead, 20mins before the start, our club chairman walked past and happened to mention that he had a spare number he was intending to hand back to the organisers, but as there was an on the day number transfer procedure I somehow ended up with the number pinned to me!
It didn't make for perfect preparation, but I decided to take it steady, and ease the pace up depending upon how I felt. I found it rather warm, especially along a long canal section, and mild dehydration made it uncomfortable coming through 16k or so.
Although it wasn't a full on race effort (or preparation) I think the thing that struck me most afterward was that I could manage a respectable half marathon performance (compared to my pb) at very short notice (i.e. enough time to sort my waist pack and jog to the start). I could not have imagined something like that a few years ago, and it's making me a little grinny just thinking about it!
Alas I don't think the next major race will succumb quite so easily, but I'm reasonably confident unless something drastic happens between now and then, or it's a baking hot day, that I can manage a decent 3 Peaks performance.
In reply to AJM:
Didn't do anything last week due to flu. Couldn't even get off the sofa! Not great given I'm off to the Verdon soon but can't see a couple of weeks off totally ruining a winter's training... Hopefully a better week this week.
Didn't do anything last week due to flu. Couldn't even get off the sofa! Not great given I'm off to the Verdon soon but can't see a couple of weeks off totally ruining a winter's training... Hopefully a better week this week.
In reply to AJM: cheers aim!
Mon - 45 min brisk hill walk
Tues - 45 min hill walk & weights circuit x2
Weds - nowt
Thurs - Leeds wall. 1hr 30 mins TR 4+ X3/ 5+ x3 6a x1 then bouldered
Fri - drove to Wales - did Hope on Idwal Slabs in the sun as a three and swapping leads between 2 of us. Lovely
Sat - flying buttress and spiral stairs on Dinas Cromlech. One of the best days climbing I've had for a long time! Great routes, clear blue skies, sunshine and good leading. And I got sunburnt in April - madness!
Sun - had to go home and leave the sunshine and rock. I was knackered anyway!
Good week! Got up my first 6a since last year on Thursday and got some good leading milage under my belt - time to up the grade next time I think.
Started diet - lost a couple of pounds
Goals - short term - lose weight every week - create a training plan for bouldering sessions - get outside (target -4 days a month?) - start an outdoor route pyramid
Mid term by June - 6x HS leads. 6a indoors. Work V4 indoors. Lose a stone
Long term - prepare for Lundy trip and CIC hut weekend in August. Need to able to lead VS to get most of lundy week and build stamina/hill fitness/long mountain days for CIC at end of August. Devils slide and tower ridge are the main route goals for August. Lose 2 stone
Mon - 45 min brisk hill walk
Tues - 45 min hill walk & weights circuit x2
Weds - nowt
Thurs - Leeds wall. 1hr 30 mins TR 4+ X3/ 5+ x3 6a x1 then bouldered
Fri - drove to Wales - did Hope on Idwal Slabs in the sun as a three and swapping leads between 2 of us. Lovely
Sat - flying buttress and spiral stairs on Dinas Cromlech. One of the best days climbing I've had for a long time! Great routes, clear blue skies, sunshine and good leading. And I got sunburnt in April - madness!
Sun - had to go home and leave the sunshine and rock. I was knackered anyway!
Good week! Got up my first 6a since last year on Thursday and got some good leading milage under my belt - time to up the grade next time I think.
Started diet - lost a couple of pounds
Goals - short term - lose weight every week - create a training plan for bouldering sessions - get outside (target -4 days a month?) - start an outdoor route pyramid
Mid term by June - 6x HS leads. 6a indoors. Work V4 indoors. Lose a stone
Long term - prepare for Lundy trip and CIC hut weekend in August. Need to able to lead VS to get most of lundy week and build stamina/hill fitness/long mountain days for CIC at end of August. Devils slide and tower ridge are the main route goals for August. Lose 2 stone
In reply to AJM:
STG (amongst others): Clean leads of all the 6a's at the wall before moving on.
Ticked another one this week. Realised I'm trying a route and if I don't do it clean I'm moving onto something else and not coming back to it. Need more perseverance to crack a route a week or I still be on these in 6 months time. More focus - think I've said that before...
STG (amongst others): Clean leads of all the 6a's at the wall before moving on.
Ticked another one this week. Realised I'm trying a route and if I don't do it clean I'm moving onto something else and not coming back to it. Need more perseverance to crack a route a week or I still be on these in 6 months time. More focus - think I've said that before...
In reply to AJM:
Oh my days... How good is Font?! BOULDERING.... EVERYWHERE. ARGH....
Wow. wow. wow. wow. wow.
7 days of blue sky and 25degrees has left me with the best impression of one the best climbing locations in the world.
So my first trip to the magical le Foret. I decided when I was started climbing on the first day that I was more interested in mileage and getting loads of stuff done in loads of places, rather than sticking to one hard project (and probably not getting it done!) I climbed so many different varieties of climb, every single one of them would be a classic 3 star climb in the UK. It's amazing in the quality and quantity over there.
My only negative was not getting a font 7a slab tick.... but jeeeeez are they not only hard as nails, but they are usually poffed/polished into oblivion. That was probably the only downside of one of my now favourite places on Earth.
I ended up doing 28 font 7's, mainly 7a/+'s. Which I thought really consolidated v6/7 for me. Although I'm pretty sure the font7a grade varied between around v4-v8+!! Brilliant. Some sandbagged to hell stuff, which is still brilliant.
One of the highlights was probably my last evening, which we spent at Isatis. After spending a whole day bouldering and just climbing a long power endurancy v7, I jumped on El Poussah. It's only v6 but pure class... Everything has to work for 2 single perfect moves. Left heel has to stick, Right toe has to catch, left hand has to stick, right hand has to cross over to sloper. Breath. Right hand has to stick, Left heel has to stick, Right toe has to remain clamped and POP! CATCH. WIN! AMAZING.
M- Arrive in La Foret!
T- Bas Cuvier (Amazing!)
W- Franchard Isatis + Hautes Plaines
T- 95.2, Cul de Chien, Roche Aux Saboux
F- Mont Ussy, Bas Cuvier
S- Isatis, Memel, Gorge des Chats
S- Roche Aux Saboux, 95.2
M- Apremont, Cuisinere.
T- 2 hours of Bumbling at Bas Cuvier with very sore fingers tips and arms...
So my first week of font have lest me battered, bruised and very very excited about returning... Maybe next time I'll stay long enough to allow myself a rest day....?
PSYCHED.
Oh my days... How good is Font?! BOULDERING.... EVERYWHERE. ARGH....
Wow. wow. wow. wow. wow.
7 days of blue sky and 25degrees has left me with the best impression of one the best climbing locations in the world.
So my first trip to the magical le Foret. I decided when I was started climbing on the first day that I was more interested in mileage and getting loads of stuff done in loads of places, rather than sticking to one hard project (and probably not getting it done!) I climbed so many different varieties of climb, every single one of them would be a classic 3 star climb in the UK. It's amazing in the quality and quantity over there.
My only negative was not getting a font 7a slab tick.... but jeeeeez are they not only hard as nails, but they are usually poffed/polished into oblivion. That was probably the only downside of one of my now favourite places on Earth.
I ended up doing 28 font 7's, mainly 7a/+'s. Which I thought really consolidated v6/7 for me. Although I'm pretty sure the font7a grade varied between around v4-v8+!! Brilliant. Some sandbagged to hell stuff, which is still brilliant.
One of the highlights was probably my last evening, which we spent at Isatis. After spending a whole day bouldering and just climbing a long power endurancy v7, I jumped on El Poussah. It's only v6 but pure class... Everything has to work for 2 single perfect moves. Left heel has to stick, Right toe has to catch, left hand has to stick, right hand has to cross over to sloper. Breath. Right hand has to stick, Left heel has to stick, Right toe has to remain clamped and POP! CATCH. WIN! AMAZING.
M- Arrive in La Foret!
T- Bas Cuvier (Amazing!)
W- Franchard Isatis + Hautes Plaines
T- 95.2, Cul de Chien, Roche Aux Saboux
F- Mont Ussy, Bas Cuvier
S- Isatis, Memel, Gorge des Chats
S- Roche Aux Saboux, 95.2
M- Apremont, Cuisinere.
T- 2 hours of Bumbling at Bas Cuvier with very sore fingers tips and arms...
So my first week of font have lest me battered, bruised and very very excited about returning... Maybe next time I'll stay long enough to allow myself a rest day....?
PSYCHED.
In reply to AJM:
Hi Andy, Sorry I missed last weeks post I will update it later! Highlight was getting indoor V8 so power is OK I guess.
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
Week 14 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion),
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, (V8 done)
Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
Rest and test PHASE:
Exactly what it says on the tin rest lots no supplementary training and try and send projects etc.
Not a good week felt weak and tired and low on motivation. got no where near my onsights indoors but had good go on 8a at Harlow but no further progress and have the begnnings of a possible redpoint on grey 7c+ at Harlow. Routes at ME felt hard and fingery and my fingers did not like!
Saturday instead of hard clipping just had a mileage day at hedbury did nothing harder than 6c though found the grades stiff at Hedbury.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
This Weeks Goals:
Two routes days doing easy stuff though may have a hard day as this week was so poor.
Maybe get out for a day next week.
Gutted won't be going to font over easter plans fell through due to other half!
Weight: 74.7kg
Cheers
Gordon
Hi Andy, Sorry I missed last weeks post I will update it later! Highlight was getting indoor V8 so power is OK I guess.
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
Week 14 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion),
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, (V8 done)
Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
Rest and test PHASE:
Exactly what it says on the tin rest lots no supplementary training and try and send projects etc.
Not a good week felt weak and tired and low on motivation. got no where near my onsights indoors but had good go on 8a at Harlow but no further progress and have the begnnings of a possible redpoint on grey 7c+ at Harlow. Routes at ME felt hard and fingery and my fingers did not like!
Saturday instead of hard clipping just had a mileage day at hedbury did nothing harder than 6c though found the grades stiff at Hedbury.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
This Weeks Goals:
Two routes days doing easy stuff though may have a hard day as this week was so poor.
Maybe get out for a day next week.
Gutted won't be going to font over easter plans fell through due to other half!
Weight: 74.7kg
Cheers
Gordon
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