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James Pearson has written a full report of his trad adventures in Pembroke on his blog.
James climbed several E8s in good style, made the first ascent of a project line in Huntsman's Leap and climbed Muy Caliente! (E10) ground-up on his second attempt...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62109
In reply to UKC News: Fairplay to James this is amazing stuff! what next? Indian Face onsight?
In reply to UKC News: Great video, really nice edit.
In reply to UKC News: "I'm a lion...rah rah." Not quite the testosterone fuelled battle cry from Sharma. Inspiring climbing.
In reply to UKC News:
Really enjoyed the blog. Good write-up and reminds me very much of when i send my fiancee up to suss out moves so that I can flash a route
Really enjoyed the blog. Good write-up and reminds me very much of when i send my fiancee up to suss out moves so that I can flash a route
In reply to UKC News:
Incredible effort from James on these routes.. wonder what his next big objective will be.
probably A bit irrelevant, but anyone else notice how James and Tim use different holds at the end of the main runout? James goes up to the right, whilst Tim crossed his right hand over the top to catch the hold with two fingers.. James method looking a lot more secure. vid of Tim on it here.. http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38...
Incredible effort from James on these routes.. wonder what his next big objective will be.
probably A bit irrelevant, but anyone else notice how James and Tim use different holds at the end of the main runout? James goes up to the right, whilst Tim crossed his right hand over the top to catch the hold with two fingers.. James method looking a lot more secure. vid of Tim on it here.. http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38...
In reply to UKC News:
Great to see the elite can back themselves into a corner just like the rest of us.....lost himself on grit and found himself above the sea...nice.
Great to see the elite can back themselves into a corner just like the rest of us.....lost himself on grit and found himself above the sea...nice.
In reply to UKC News: Great video, bit odd that he climbs while playing music (he's wearing ear phones for the ascent i believe). Must help him concentrate, good effort!
Nice one James! Most inspiring trad video i've seen, he looks to have so much fun while doing it too, check out the little dance he does when he reaches the ledge.
In reply to UKC News:
that was insanely good! 'failure is not falling down, it is refusing to get back up' loved the music too!
that was insanely good! 'failure is not falling down, it is refusing to get back up' loved the music too!
In reply to UKC News:
Best possible way to silence the jokers on here that just can't stand to see him doing well. Amazing effort.
Best possible way to silence the jokers on here that just can't stand to see him doing well. Amazing effort.
In reply to UKC News: Thats really inspirational! Great style. Onsight, flash and headpoint. And he loved it all! Good work!
In reply to UKC News:
Anyone else think that James is probably the best trad climber in Britain now.
Anyone else think that James is probably the best trad climber in Britain now.
In reply to Quarryboy:
Numbers don't lie...
I'm going to start saying "I'm a lion, rarr!" when I top out routes now.
Numbers don't lie...
I'm going to start saying "I'm a lion, rarr!" when I top out routes now.
In reply to UKC News: Incredible piece of climbing and really well put together video.
In reply to UKC News: Awesome bit of climbing!!! Never really warmed to James but you simply cannot take away from him the awesome achievments of his in pembroke, and just in his improvement from vastly overgrading a sea cliff route to onsighting/flashing multiple routes just a grade below this and ground-upping a route a grade harder... awesome!
I just want to go back to pembroke!!
I just want to go back to pembroke!!
In reply to UKC News: Props to James for his recent exploits...the haters be damned,the lad's on top class form.F****in' inspirational!!
In reply to UKC News: Very insperational. Watching that was a good lift to another dull Monday morning.
Cheers
Cheers
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
Why? Did he say you're father smelled of Elderberries or something?
> (In reply to UKC News) Awesome bit of climbing!!! Never really warmed to James
Why? Did he say you're father smelled of Elderberries or something?
In reply to bomb: Exactly, I always remained open-minded but he never really came across in the same light as other climbers in the various DVD's Ive seen of him. But he is a beast you cannot deny, and maybe he is a real big pimp after all?
In reply to Quarryboy:
What do you mean by 'best'?
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Anyone else think that James is probably the best trad climber in Britain now.
>
> Anyone else think that James is probably the best trad climber in Britain now.
What do you mean by 'best'?
In reply to Fraser:
THe one having the most fun, obviously...
> (In reply to Quarryboy)
> [...]
>
>
> What do you mean by 'best'?
> [...]
>
>
> What do you mean by 'best'?
THe one having the most fun, obviously...
In reply to UKC News: Awesome video and awesome achievements! Never met the guy but having watched the North Face road trip stuff he did with Gaz Parry he always came across as just a great climber who likes to have a laugh and doesn't take himself too seriously.
Always felt his treatment over the whole Walk of Life thing and some of the frankly aweful things said on here about him in the following months was more than a little unfair. His comments at the start of the video make a very important point...after all we've all been on routes that felt harder than the grade would suggest haven't we? Difference is most of us have a consensus grade to fall back on...i.e. if a climb has been VS for 20 years then even if it feels like E3 it almost certainly isn't.
Anyway, hopefully this will see the end to all the snide comments and is just the start of a storming year for James...Roar!
BTW...if he had flashed it what sort of pool of climbers does that put him in? Has anyone flashed or onsighted E10?
Always felt his treatment over the whole Walk of Life thing and some of the frankly aweful things said on here about him in the following months was more than a little unfair. His comments at the start of the video make a very important point...after all we've all been on routes that felt harder than the grade would suggest haven't we? Difference is most of us have a consensus grade to fall back on...i.e. if a climb has been VS for 20 years then even if it feels like E3 it almost certainly isn't.
Anyway, hopefully this will see the end to all the snide comments and is just the start of a storming year for James...Roar!
BTW...if he had flashed it what sort of pool of climbers does that put him in? Has anyone flashed or onsighted E10?
In reply to andybenham:
Agree entirely. I nearly defected over the constant bashing Pearson got from the gutter end of UKC.
Agree entirely. I nearly defected over the constant bashing Pearson got from the gutter end of UKC.
In reply to andybenham:
Don't think anyone has flashed E10. The only E9 that has gone onsight i believe is Stevie Haston's Craig Dorris effort but I don't think anyone has confirmed the grade yet.
Don't think anyone has flashed E10. The only E9 that has gone onsight i believe is Stevie Haston's Craig Dorris effort but I don't think anyone has confirmed the grade yet.
In reply to UKC News: Awesome vid, after bit of a downer on climbing this has just flicked a switch.
On of the most Impressive bits of climbing ive seen.
On of the most Impressive bits of climbing ive seen.
In reply to colin8ll: I thought birket had onsighted an e9 on dove crag? Only going from the vid...Stone country is it? - will have to dig out and watch again. Was a while back I saw it last so might have my wires crossed.
In reply to colin8ll:
Wrong
> The only E9 that has gone onsight i believe is Stevie Haston's Craig Dorris effort
Wrong
In reply to jkarran:
Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here. I could have gone into more detail but these things are not hard to check yet we still have to wade through posts that people unthinkingly put up which then get repeated on here as gospel. Before long we'll be reading about Stevie Haston's on sight of an E9 at Dove crag. I mean, FFS, does Dove Crag even have an E9?
Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here. I could have gone into more detail but these things are not hard to check yet we still have to wade through posts that people unthinkingly put up which then get repeated on here as gospel. Before long we'll be reading about Stevie Haston's on sight of an E9 at Dove crag. I mean, FFS, does Dove Crag even have an E9?
In reply to Tyler:
Even if the "shit" that is spouted as "fact" is qualified with "I believe" in one case and a series of question marks in the other?
> Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here
Even if the "shit" that is spouted as "fact" is qualified with "I believe" in one case and a series of question marks in the other?
In reply to andybenham:
You're possibly thinking of Fear of Failure E8 6c, which Dave Birkett on-sighted and was filmed for Set in Stone.
> (In reply to colin8ll) I thought birket had onsighted an e9 on dove crag? Only going from the vid...Stone country is it? - will have to dig out and watch again. Was a while back I saw it last so might have my wires crossed.
You're possibly thinking of Fear of Failure E8 6c, which Dave Birkett on-sighted and was filmed for Set in Stone.
In reply to Toreador:
Yes, if you're not sure why say anything? Like I said, these things are easy to check.
Anyway, I believe that prefixing a statement with 'I believe' is usually intended as a truncation of 'I believe I'm correct in saying....' not 'I believe what I'm about to say is 100% verifiable horse manure but I'm going to say it anyway becuase my dim witted observations are of interest to everyone and I like the sound of my own voice.'
Yes, if you're not sure why say anything? Like I said, these things are easy to check.
Anyway, I believe that prefixing a statement with 'I believe' is usually intended as a truncation of 'I believe I'm correct in saying....' not 'I believe what I'm about to say is 100% verifiable horse manure but I'm going to say it anyway becuase my dim witted observations are of interest to everyone and I like the sound of my own voice.'
In reply to Tyler:
It's not the end of the world though, is it?
> (In reply to Toreador)
>
> Yes, if you're not sure why say anything? Like I said, these things are easy to check.
>
> Anyway, I believe that prefixing a statement with 'I believe' is usually intended as a truncation of 'I believe I'm correct in saying....' not 'I believe what I'm about to say is 100% verifiable horse manure but I'm going to say it anyway becuase my dim witted observations are of interest to everyone and I like the sound of my own voice.'
>
> Yes, if you're not sure why say anything? Like I said, these things are easy to check.
>
> Anyway, I believe that prefixing a statement with 'I believe' is usually intended as a truncation of 'I believe I'm correct in saying....' not 'I believe what I'm about to say is 100% verifiable horse manure but I'm going to say it anyway becuase my dim witted observations are of interest to everyone and I like the sound of my own voice.'
It's not the end of the world though, is it?
In reply to UKC News: I heard they are only E6 with pads.
In reply to tony:
Mentioned in "Set In Stone" with some stills included, but not filmed as far as I know. He is filmed onsighting E8 in, erm, "Onsight".
> (In reply to andybenham)
> [...]
>
> You're possibly thinking of Fear of Failure E8 6c, which Dave Birkett on-sighted and was filmed for Set in Stone.
> [...]
>
> You're possibly thinking of Fear of Failure E8 6c, which Dave Birkett on-sighted and was filmed for Set in Stone.
Mentioned in "Set In Stone" with some stills included, but not filmed as far as I know. He is filmed onsighting E8 in, erm, "Onsight".
In reply to henwardian:
Ha ha, somehow I can't see Ryan Pasquil hitching to Pembroke with a pile of pads and an inflatable boat
Ha ha, somehow I can't see Ryan Pasquil hitching to Pembroke with a pile of pads and an inflatable boat
In reply to Tyler:
Why bother posting 'on here' if you are so clearly exasperated with some of the protagonists? Why not stay on UKReachAround or UKSaladTossing or wherever you normally hang out?
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here. I could have gone into more detail but these things are not hard to check yet we still have to wade through posts that people unthinkingly put up which then get repeated on here as gospel.
>
> Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here. I could have gone into more detail but these things are not hard to check yet we still have to wade through posts that people unthinkingly put up which then get repeated on here as gospel.
Why bother posting 'on here' if you are so clearly exasperated with some of the protagonists? Why not stay on UKReachAround or UKSaladTossing or wherever you normally hang out?
In reply to colin8ll and andybenham:
No-one has onsighted E9, though it has been done ground-up (Parthian Shot being the only example?).
Of course, now E10 has been climbed ground-up which beggers belief! An incredible achievement.
No-one has onsighted E9, though it has been done ground-up (Parthian Shot being the only example?).
Of course, now E10 has been climbed ground-up which beggers belief! An incredible achievement.
In reply to about the last 15 posts...
Returning to the point, such a close attempt to flash an E10 shows clear potential to push flash/onsight boundaries well above the established levels. More importantly just good to see JP clearly so much enjoying an absolutely brilliant route and taking the first failure well in his stride. A momentous moment for a great climber, and a huge step forward in personal approach as well as ability - plenty here many climbers are yet to learn.
Returning to the point, such a close attempt to flash an E10 shows clear potential to push flash/onsight boundaries well above the established levels. More importantly just good to see JP clearly so much enjoying an absolutely brilliant route and taking the first failure well in his stride. A momentous moment for a great climber, and a huge step forward in personal approach as well as ability - plenty here many climbers are yet to learn.
In reply to UKC News:
Great effort and really impressive achievements, all of them.
But please...someone has to tell him about those sunglasses! Noooooo!!!!!
Great effort and really impressive achievements, all of them.
But please...someone has to tell him about those sunglasses! Noooooo!!!!!
In reply to Fraser:
I've researched them carefully and they provide the best UV protection on the market. I can only assume he is wearing them for practical reasons therefore, and is entirely aware of the style implications.
Personally I prefer to climb exclusively in aviators, regardless of sun, but particularly in extreme alpine conditions in the dark.
I've researched them carefully and they provide the best UV protection on the market. I can only assume he is wearing them for practical reasons therefore, and is entirely aware of the style implications.
Personally I prefer to climb exclusively in aviators, regardless of sun, but particularly in extreme alpine conditions in the dark.
In reply to Tyler:
No assertion of fact made. Obvious surely by starting with "I thought" and ending with "?".
Moron.
> (In reply to jkarran)
>
> Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here.
>
> Conisderably more helpful than spouting shit as fact on here.
No assertion of fact made. Obvious surely by starting with "I thought" and ending with "?".
Moron.
In reply to UKC News:
firstly pretty amazing stuff!
secondly where can i get the music from? especially the track played during the ascent of muy caliente?
Ol
(the onlychildren site doesnt seem to have that song, nor does sam grinsell)
firstly pretty amazing stuff!
secondly where can i get the music from? especially the track played during the ascent of muy caliente?
Ol
(the onlychildren site doesnt seem to have that song, nor does sam grinsell)
Aweome!
In reply to Ollie B:
Chris from Only Children says;
"You download it for FREE from our soundcloud..."
http://soundcloud.com/onlychildren/cold-dust-girl-only-children-remix
Chris from Only Children says;
"You download it for FREE from our soundcloud..."
http://soundcloud.com/onlychildren/cold-dust-girl-only-children-remix
In reply to Fraser:
he's a P I M P dont you know, shades like those are de-rigeur.
get with it man ; )
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
>
>
> But please...someone has to tell him about those sunglasses! Noooooo!!!!!
> But please...someone has to tell him about those sunglasses! Noooooo!!!!!
he's a P I M P dont you know, shades like those are de-rigeur.
get with it man ; )
In reply to pascalbrown: Nice video Pascal.
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing video and a great effort from James.
Is clipping your draws into the crab with the crab "upside down" - i.e. the narrowest part of the top draw clipped into the gear slightly safer?
Awesome.
James
Amazing video and a great effort from James.
Is clipping your draws into the crab with the crab "upside down" - i.e. the narrowest part of the top draw clipped into the gear slightly safer?
Awesome.
James
In reply to James Oswald:
Look at the rock. If there is chance the rock could push open the gate, for example the outer edge of crack, then flipping the crab will often make that less likely.
> Is clipping your draws into the crab with the crab "upside down" - i.e. the narrowest part of the top draw clipped into the gear slightly safer?
Look at the rock. If there is chance the rock could push open the gate, for example the outer edge of crack, then flipping the crab will often make that less likely.
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