UKC

DESTINATION GUIDE: Llanberis Slate - The Full Tour

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 UKC Articles 30 May 2011
An accessible but polished classic - Holy Holy Holy - E2 5c, 3 kbLocally based climber Mark Reeves gives us a broad article on the history, geology, climbs and culture of the Llanberis slate quarries in Wales, UK.

"The history of climbing in the quarries started, in 1969, with Joe Brown who seemed to have been waiting for the workers to leave so he could step in..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3682

 Tom Last 30 May 2011
In reply to dave555:

Relax Dave.

OP: Nice one Mark, great article. I wonder how many people have even noticed Combat Rock, despite it being bleedin' obvious - but not included in North Wales Rock? Conversely, thanks to their inclusion in North Wales Rock, Launching Pad, Fools' Gold, Seems the Same etc must get multiple ascents per week. Begs the question, just how busy it's going to get once the new guide is out!
 TobyA 30 May 2011
In reply to dave555:
> are you more important just because you can climb harder ?

Yes. I thought that as obvious?



 TobyA 30 May 2011
In reply to Southern Man: I've done Combat Rock - one of my few slate routes. It's ace, although lowering off the single bolt at the top was a bit spooky. Has anyone put in a more modern arrangement since? It was HVS in my day too...
 Tom Last 30 May 2011
In reply to TobyA:

No idea I'm afraid Toby. I should have qualified my post by saying that being an occasional visitor, I'm one of those who have passed it by. On the list now though!
 DJonsight 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Good article Mark, makes me miss my old slate days.
 Mick Ward 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

A superb article. Didn't climbing history begin with Gideon, rather than Brown's first forays? I didn't know that 362 quarrymen had died. May their spirits rest in peace.

At times the quarries are as eerie as they are surreal and fascinating.

Mick
 Michael Gordon 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Excellent article.
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Cheers Guys.

Really enjopyed writing this piece, its a place I have been passionate about for years. Although Mark and Jack have done an excellent job of editing together the words, lists and photos.
 TobyA 30 May 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves:
> Although Mark and Jack have done an excellent job of editing together the words, lists and photos.

They missed a "your" that should be "you're" in German Schoolgirl. Incidentally, from your description of that, can I take it that it is a bouldery start with easier climbing above? Would it make a ok E2 for an E1 leader to try?
 sutty 30 May 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves:

An interesting read, and that from someone who has never done a route there. Went up one driech day when the quarries had just closed, tried a couple of moves on wet slate in big boots and decided to leave it to better men. Good pictures and guide to what is good as well.
 Mr Powly 30 May 2011
In reply to TobyA:

The hardest move is the first one, but the whole thing is basically tricky moves with great rests between them. Once you've done the first move you're in the corner and it kind of pulls you up from rest to rest. The gear and rests are good, pretty good one for an E1 leader to get on I'd say.
In reply to UKC Articles: "Comes the Dervish is a route that any wannabe Slatehead needs to put at the top of their ticklist, originally graded E5, the line has cleaned up considerably, and is now one of the best E3's in the UK. If you have not climbed this route then you are not a slate climber, just a climber who's climbed on slate".

Dang you Reevesey! It was E5 in my day so I never got up it!

I am a slate climber, I am a slate climber, I am a slate climber!

Good article - nice potted history too. Hope to read Alun John Richards book on the history - this might just inspire me.

<Leaves thread to play with ones RP's!>

 Kemics 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Awesome article! Really enjoyed it, gave a great feel of the place. Plenty added to the wishlist
 Ben Griffiths 31 May 2011
Have the access issues eased off a little recently then? Obviously Dalhi's Hole is a no go (no great loss...), but have Hydro relaxed a little now since the Clash of the Titan filming?
Shirebikes 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great Article - only thing i disagree with is the vaynol pub - had some terrible food there before.
 stonemaster 31 May 2011
In reply to Shirebikes: You had it good. A few years ago, one not only had bad food...meat (!!) curry with no papadum, no scraps of rabbit food that others call salad, on a bed of pretty iffy rice for about a tenner; pretty ordinary beer and the best bit..got challenged to a fight by a staggering inebriated local. I was in the mood as well after that excuse for a meal when his mate dragged him away...
 Reach>Talent 31 May 2011
In reply to Shirebikes:
It is meant to be quite good now, I think it has changed ownership. When I was at uni it was refered to as "The Food poisoning pub".
 stonemaster 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Nice one Mr Reeves..
 Morgan Woods 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

excellent article with some great shots in there Mark.....just focussing on the industrial side for the moment is there any slate extraction currently going on? I had heard that the new cafe on Snowden was made with imported slate which if true is a shame.
 lewiz 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Great article. Just so happened to be on the slate for the first time this weekend. Somebody helpfully pointed out the line of The Quarryman for me so I'm now figuring out how to get my hands on Stone Monkey...
 metal arms 31 May 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves:

Nice article. Made me think about a return visit...
Removed User 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Made me all nostlgic. Did my apprenticeship here and loved it. Done most of the E1's and a good few of the E2's along with "the Dervish" of course.

I could never get off the ground for Collossus and I seem to remember quite a good E1 that is next to combat rock?

I thought Twll Mawr was the one filled with water (and trees) but it might just be my memory fading.
bull2010face 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Sweet article. The next time I'm there and it's not pissing rain I'll give it a go.
 Stuart Wood 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Best article I have read in years!

Well done Mark.

Woody
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 31 May 2011
In reply to Stuart Wood: I didn't know you could read woody!

 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 31 May 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:Thanks for the comments, glad it is being enjoyed.
 Stuart Wood 31 May 2011
In reply to Mark Reeves:

only remedial material like yours Mark

woody

 edwardwoodward 02 Jun 2011
<Deep Breath>
Enjoyed the article, but would have enjoyed it more if it had been proofread. Too many mistakes.
Flairs are in?
</Deep Breath>

@Minneconjou: You're thinking of Dali's Hole.
Removed User 06 Jun 2011
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Removed UserUKC Articles)
>
>> I thought Twll Mawr was the one filled with water (and trees) but it might just be my memory fading.

'Course, I was thinkin of Dali's hole. Scuse me but its my age ya know.
 Guy 06 Jun 2011
In reply to TobyA: Good wires on German Schoolgirl and the start was def the hardest bit for me being on the short side. If you are taller I would think one of the higher moves might be the hardest. Fair at E2 5C, not pumpy if you can use your feet.

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