UKC

Big news from the slate quarries!!!
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/06/16/king-of-the-mezz-e7-6c-twll-mawr/

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Cool! Isn't he releasing an autobiography soon?

In reply to Sl@te Head:
So good to see Johnny back recently & now this !!. A few years ago I did fear for his demise but fantastic to see him back near or even at the top of his game.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I'll bet that he hurt his fist?... Personally, I'd rather hit John Rushby. With a shovel.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Great stuff go Johnny go go go!

In reply to Frogger: did you not read it all then?

In reply to Sl@te Head: clearly well timed publicity for that soon-to-be-released autobiography!

But nice to know he is still top of his game!

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Fabulous news. I like (I mean, don't like the sound of!) this new technique of laybacking using your cheek!

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yes, the words 'of my face' came as a great relief, didn't they?

Interesting he says on that link he's in the process of creating a new E10 in Wales. He's obviously fitter than he's been for a while, that's for sure, but still I'll believe that when I see it. Presumably this is The Meltdown redivivus. I forget what the story was there - a hold fell off the overlap and was due to be resculpted in gold, IIRC - but was the story that that made it impossible, or just spoiled the thing and Johnny lost interest?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

http://ianparnellphotography.blogspot.com/2009/04/in-hands-of-masters.html

Interesting link on the Meltdown theme. I guess Caff didn't do it in 2009, then, unless I missed it. I was wondering why no-one seemed to have thried it these last 20 years; perhaps people actually did and just haven't been able to do it.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: It's still being tried. And it hasn't had an ascent yet.

In reply to Clauso:


It better be a strong shovel, Rubbishy's face is made of Titanium these days!

PP

In reply to Sl@te Head: I've always had a great admiration for Johnny. Great to see him back on his game. One of the true greats of his generation. I once had a beer with him in Llanberis, I was paying natch.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

He's the Man!

In reply to Sl@te Head: This news makes my day! Big congrats Johnny!

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: No it's actually a different line (a desperate looking thing on Dinas Mot), but he did say he was keen to get back on the Meltdown.

In reply to Sl@te Head: What a legend; can't wait for his autobiography. Hopefully a nice bit of his rhapsodising on the spiritual side of climbing, the Indian Face section on the Stone Monkey DVD was great. He's a nutter!

In reply to Sl@te Head: well done Johnny!

In reply to Simon Panton: I wondered if that was it, he pointed it out to me from the Cromlech a month or so back. Real scary looking!

In reply to Simon Panton: Is it the rounded arete left of top pitch of direct routes top pitch??
Or one of the wings on the Mot?

In reply to Sl@te Head:

A bit of E7 on-sight cheek-backing, on a whim. Total legend