UKC

Hi there
I am a bit of a beginner at the whole winter climbing thing, I have done a winter skills course and some a few winter leads last year and I am totally hooked! Last year I was using Sportiva Trango Alps and Grivel Air Tech Crampons and climbed grade III ice now worries. This year I will be using Nepal Extremes with either the same crampon configuration or G14’s as I got them both at a great price. This is a bit of background to my question.
I am considering selling the G14’s for a bit of profit as they are new, but I am just wondering if it was worth my while. How hard do you need to be climbing to justify wearing something like this, I don’t want to be all the gear and no Idea rocking up to grade III’s with super technical crampons but I don’t want to selling them and find out that for grade for grade IV something this technical would be a really benefit? I know this is personal preference but a few peoples thoughts would be great.
Cheers
Ben

In reply to thinbennyboy:

How much do you want for the G14s?

In reply to thinbennyboy:
I think having both types of crampon is very usefull. I'm not a great fan of the g14 though as I didn't find the front point protruded far enough and the mono point is a bit of a strange fit on nepals (the boot rests on the point rather than the crampon frame).

The protrusion of the points is dependent on the fitting, I only tried crampomatic and I found the stock G14 grivel toe bail bars varied so some were OK.

So in short if your front points protrude enough and you are happy with the mono fit then keep them otherwise flog um with view to getting another similar monopoint crampon in the future.

In reply to thinbennyboy: I would keep both. Use your older ones on mixed and keep your new sharp ones for ice. Who cares if you are climbing grade III in G14's. G14's aren't that technical these days anyway, there's a hell of a lot more technical on the market. I've got G14's and will climb III's in them happily.

On the other hand, if you're needing the money, then sell the G14's. The Air techs will do you fine on IV. Just keep them sharp. (mind you, even blunt they will be fine on IV mixed - mine were super, duper blunt until I bought a new pair)

In reply to thinbennyboy:
G14s will be great on water ice when its cold (and nearly as good as mountaineering crampons on snow ice and neve and functionally ok on unconsolidated snow), this type of climbing really starts at around grade IV in scotland and monos are slightly better than dual. For mixed these type of crampons come in to their own in monopoint and will be again useful from around grade IV.

In reply to CurlyStevo:
as sonya says under grade IV they will be equally as functional, my first crampons were g14.

In reply to CurlyStevo: I bought G14s because there was a deal on them, even though I thought they might be over-spec for what I do, and I really like them for III/IV (mainly III if I'm honest!). I'm not the greatest gear buff - I use them with a pair of Flies - but I find them fine for most things. I do have a pair of scrotty old stubbies for walking/scrambling. Keep 'em.

R

In reply to thinbennyboy:
To measure frontpoint protrusion:
Set crampons on boot with crampon adjusted for most front point protrusion. Stand with boot upright in normal orientation on the floor. Use piece of card vertically down from front of boot to measure protruding part of crampon, measure the crampon points horizontal protrusion (don't measue along the point which also angles down so will be a longer measurement).

For dual points you want over an inch, I'd say 1.25 - 1.5 inches on new vertical points is ideal and for monos you want 1.5 - 1.75 inches. Remember vertical points do wear down quite fast. For mountaineering crampons you can get away with a fair bit less protrusion say take off 0.25 inches from the above.

Stevo

In reply to thinbennyboy:

You have the same crampons as I had until I bought a pair of scarpa jorasses boots and couldn't get the g14s to fit well with them.

I think you should keep them if the fit is good on your boots?

My set up is very similar to yours and I am a proper punter.

Scarpa Charmoz with Airtechs for easier stuff IIs and IIIs and winter walking.

Scarpa Jorasses with Dartwins now but was G14s for harder stuff.

You rock up routes in whatever you want mate and personally I don't think there is anything wrong at all in going up grade IIIs in g14s. I felt safer and more confident when I did it.

cheers and good luck this season.


Gaz

Thanks for all the replies! Really helpful and no shooting me down for what felt like a silly question. I think I will keep them but I am going to see how they fit on the boots when I get them at the end of the weekish. If they are crappy then I will sell.

In reply to thinbennyboy: a note about grivel airtech crampons - I found them great on rocky routes because the downward pointing spikes are short, but I found them a bit lacking on softer snow routes and cornices because they wouldnt bite very deep. I later got a pair of G12s which feel much more secure on snow/neve and are a great all rounder for everything from walking up to steep ice.

In reply to thinbennyboy:
There seems to be a misconception that you need to have particular crampons to climb harder routes. Technique counts for more than anything else as long as you have crampons designed for the job in hand. I have climbed for years up to grade VII using Cassin bendy crampons with ski bindings to no ill effect. Don't go chasing the latest model to achieve your goals just get out there and get the mileage in.

have a good winter!

In reply to thinbennyboy: The obvious answer is when the walk ins are short... airtechs are great when you are walking for miles to get to the route...