UKC

To try tomorrow. So can't be bird banned and preferably not wet. Any ideas? Best I can think of at the moment is Rat Race. T-rex is out I imagine because of tides and dampness. Is kalahari exciting, or is it a pitch between an approach and an escape?
Manx Groove at Pen y Cil??
Could something in the mountains be in?

Thanks Alex

In reply to Alex Mason:
what about the e3 in twll mawr? Not sure if It will be dry, not sure if it will be any good
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=8623
got a good write up in slate guidebook.

In reply to Alex Mason: Zarquon/Resurrection/erection on Llecog is a wonderful adventure. Only E2 5c though..top pitch is stunning!

Not sure how dry it'll be...

In reply to Alex Mason: Nice cheers guys.

In reply to Alex Mason: Kalahari is a one pitch route essentially but it is very very good. The Moon on Yellow walls is better though and more of an adventure.

In reply to Alex Mason: If you want adventure, Deygo certainly fits the bill!!!!

In reply to Alex Mason:

Path to Rome, although I'd imagine by the standards of the area it's pretty unadventurous

In reply to Alex Mason: I think that Deygo and Path to Rome are bird banned. I've done the Moon, but perhaps Creeping Leema would be good. Looks a bit different in the picture in NWR.

In reply to Alex Mason: Didn't Creeping Lema fall down?

In reply to Goucho: Not as far as I know. Sure some mates did it in the last 6 months or so. I hope not.

In reply to Alex Mason:

Creeping Lemma or the Sind - CL is as good as the Moon - The Sind top groove is hideous.

Big Groove is good and TRex is always damp isnt it?

In reply to Alex Mason: rat race is a great trip with some varied climbing. Creeping lemma is really worth doing too, as has been said already its as good as the moon. the sind is a brill pitch, very much like climbing on the lleyn. What about fantasia? awesome route.

In reply to Alex Mason: sorry forget fantasia, as you mentioned bird ban time is upon us.

In reply to Alex Mason: If you want an adventure, Spiders Web is certainly worth the effort.

It's grade is dependent on how much aid you use, but it will probably feel more like E3 than E2 anyway.

In reply to Alex Mason:

The Big Groove on main cliff is pretty adventurous, if the tides are right.

Or if the tides are bad, Stimulator into Achilles is a pretty cool combination.

In reply to Alex Mason: Isn't Creeping Leema E2? The Moon is too conventional to be adventurous, it doesn't stop it being an amazing route. However The Sind or Dogs of War are proper adventure horrorshows for the grade, minimal gear and soft rock.

Some Red Wall route, Infidel might be a contender, as you have to do the first pitch of Pagan. On my personal wishlist. Blue Remembered Hills is pretty adventurous, two cracking pitches one sustained and one with a commiting move to the unknown, however rather too escapable.

Path to Rome would have to figure in the list, awesome traverse for total commitment.

Lubyanka is tough and adventurous for E3 in the mountains.

Manx Wall, is one short pitch, not done it, but looks reasonable for a lleyn route, although often damp, or was after a dry spell when I went down there. Its length prevent it from being most adventurous, as no commitment.

For single pitches some on Doris, but not Cripple Creek as is reasonable after the first 15ft.

In reply to Mark Reeves: Second Rat Race as well! And Big Groove, although I think BG can stay damp.

Not that adventurous I suppose, but This Years Model on the main cliff is a bloody brilliant e3

In reply to Alex Mason: Cripple creek?

In reply to McGuinness:

Good call. For a real adventure though, Three Dandy Scuttlers further down the crag is the real deal. Packs a lot in, some really varied rock and climbing, dynamite. E3 and no bird ban.

In reply to Alex Mason:

Samuri Groove at Hylldrem, possibly the best E3 on the planet !

In reply to Alex Mason: To sum up: Anything in Wen Zawn, the Main Cliff, Red Wall or Yellow Wall at E3 is adventurous - that's what makes Gogarth one of the best cliffs in the U.K. Tides should be O.K. from 11.00/11.15 but the weather forecast isn't brilliant - you may be lucky.

In reply to mr mills: Forgot about this one, although more athletic than adventurous, as you could retreat easily, it is still one of the best. I Have vivid memories of swinging round the corner in a kung fu styliee!

In reply to Alex Mason:

I thought Kalahari was great; one of the best E3s i've done at Gogarth.

Dogs of War on Yellow Wall is great (or actually is that E4?) either way it doesn't have any hard climbing on it, and it feels pretty adventurous.

In reply to Alex Mason: I've not done it, but Appian Way looks like a bit of an adventure

In reply to Mark Reeves:

Guess so, done Path to Rome and Cripple Creek but found Zaquron/Ressurection/Errection more entertaining, and IMO harder !

In reply to Toby Dunn:
Kalahari's an excellent, scenic route, but with a short and protected 5c crux, surely E2?

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Is it not rotten old pegs? Can't remember but E3's fair!

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Nope. Good gear on the wall to the left as you make the tricky move around. All pretty straightforward after that. Great route!

In reply to Jon Stewart:
I thought it was quite steep (and poorly protected) at the top as well

In reply to Alex Mason: How about Vulture on Cilan, or is that E4 now with moderrn pro?

In reply to Alex Mason: So put us out of our suspense Al and tell us what you did do !!

In reply to Junior: Well I didn't do the first ascent of Vulture, Jack Street and Chris Jackson did, here is Chris's account of the first ascent.

"WE sorted out the gear and made our way across the base of the cliff. Jack led off geared up like a Xmas tree sending showers of rock debris down like dandruff. I crouched uner an overhang wondering when the first runner would go in. At last one went in only to be followed by complaints of 'no good', some grunts and then finally the sound of a better one going in. There followed a period of silence, punctuated by falling rocks, and the rope ran out slowly until the clonking of doubtful pegs and a cry of 'come on but don't fall off' I followed dubiously...... the position was now superb-above us a maze of overhangs blotted out the sun; below the rock cut back into the sea. Jack continued past, toe traversed the thin slab behind me and despite my pleas carried on for 40ft to some obvious grooves without placing a single runner. With some alarming looking bridging moves he crossed the grooves and then the prize jug he had been heading for fell off on being touched. he swung out of sight........
Above us the clean cut groove jutted out alarmingly. After a few attempts Jack cracked it using just one peg for aid at the top to swing right into the final corner. I folloed nt daring to think of the consequences of falling off"
Chris Jackson Rocksport Dec 1968

THe second ascent was memorable but at least we knew were we were going, Street was one of the best adventure climbers in the world at the time. He should have really been invited on Annapurna S Face, but I guess his face didn't fit.

In reply to zukator: That's just not true: I've only climbed on Yellow Wall and Wen Zawn but there seems to be plenty of straightforward climbing there and I assume therefore other Gogarth venues.

In reply to ksjs -

Which E3's have you done on the cliffs referred to and not found adventurous ?

In reply to Junior: Lazily I didn't read the crucial "...at E3" bit. I haven't done much E3 at Gogarth so can't really comment but with some known exceptions I can't imagine they're THAT different from lower grade counterparts.

The Sind for example is essentially a single pitch climb and while the rock is a bit questionable in places I think it's more the style that makes it tricky. I'm not sure it's particularly adventurous. I guess it comes down to what people class as 'adventurous'?

In reply to ksjs:

Guess so. I class anything multi-pitch on a tidal sea-cliff as 'adventurous', but then I climb on Stanage mainly!

In reply to Alex Mason: Thanks for all the responses, suprised there are this many people talking about climbing on UKC.
We did The Big Groove Direct in the end which was ideal. The creaky flake described on this route has seemingly disappeared, and a few moves felt 6a around here, so the route might have altered, or I was being crap (likely), yet unphased by loose rock (unlikely).