UKC

I'm hoping to take a couple of mates out to try some low grade mountain routes, and I'm thinking about Ampitheatre Buttress. I'd be leading all day I expect, which is absolutely fine fitness and experience wise, but i wondered if my rack of mainly nuts, hexes and slings will do? (i'm low on cam numbers).

Anyone got any experience and tips to share?

In reply to Mr Chris J: wot youve got should be fine .hope u can get a dry day .wouldnt exactly call it a low grade mountain route though .treat it with respect.

In reply to Mr Chris J: You'll be fine with wires and hexes. Not having cams in not a big drama on this!

Enjoy.

In reply to Mr Chris J:

Agree tht what you describe is fine. All I'd add is that (not knowing your experience of guiding) make sure that you have enough gear to place as much as you feel you need on lead plus your belay plus their belay (obviously times two). If you haven't operated as a three before then it may come as a surprise what quantity of gear you need.

Great route, great place, hope you have great fun.

In reply to EZ: I'd second that, you end up using loads of wires/slings/screwgates/snapgates in an anchor, then having to lead and make your own anchor with what you have left.

As EZ said make sure you take enough, a double rack of wires etc.

In reply to GingerBread22:

Screw gates is what caught me out when I started guiding. I never had enough. Now for that situation I'd carry about 10 + a couple of boa's.

Another thought. Long cord or slings for each stance can help as you'll want to avoid using the rope for stances so that you can stay attached to the rock whilst you prepare to move off.

In reply to EZ: Definitely! 10 screwgates and 2 great big 240cm slings is what i always took..

In reply to Mr Chris J: It's Wales. You don't need cams!

In reply to rockstar68: I climb in Wales and my cams get a quite a lot of use. Strange generalization?

Though AB is fine without.

In reply to GingerBread22:

"no cams under E1" came the call on Stanage from a guy who over the next 15 minutes used 6 on Hargreaves original (VS) and had a chuckle with me at the fact on top.

In reply to EZ: That's a new one on me, can't blame him for breaking that rule!

Had a friend who once proclaimed that big boots should be worn on anything under VS 4c!!!

In reply to GingerBread22:

I agree it's comfortably climbable wearing big boots and a sack. Also agree no cams are necessary.

Iv'e climbed about 10 times over the last 40 years. always with big boots and pack, and no special gear is required other than a selection of nuts and a few long slings.

In reply to Mr Chris J:
Don't weigh yourself down with excessive screwgates (10+).

Take more wires and quickdraws. Use back to back snapgates if required.

In reply to everyone:

all sound stuff, thanks v much for all the posts. Lookin forward to it!

In reply to Mr Chris J:
confirm waht everyone else says, a 1 to 10 set f nuts and a set of hexes will be fine with some big slings. A single rope would be fine too as the route is pretty straight in fact its more of a ridge than a buttress climb. One thin to note though, be very careful on decent if you intend to return via the col on the right <looking at the route> its very steep, slippery and loose!

In reply to Mr Chris J: Please don't carry 10+ screwgates, that would just be silly.

In reply to Mr Chris J: Last time I did it I used about 2 cams. If I remember rightly, there was a stuck cam on the first or second pitch which I placed one next to it and used both! Great route but as colin said treat it with respect and give yourself plenty of time but you know that anyway!!!

In reply to Mr Chris J: I meant to say you will be fine with out cams more slings and nuts like all the above mentioned!

In reply to EZ:

You're still on this 'guiding' thing I see... are you getting paid now or is it another unpaid course or are you doing what many of us do: just climbing with a less experienced second, or building up a logbook for a qualification?

Anyway my view is Amphitheatre Buttress needs barely any gear for most of the route: just a few bits to protect the second(s), especially for the bypass of the pinnacles, and for belays. Cams not really required but may be useful (I always take them as they are good multidirectional pieces where routes change direction say from traverse to moving up). Two sets of nuts is certainly way over the top. Lots of slings would be good.

IMHO most anyone capable of taking beginners out in a position of responsibility on such a route should be fine pretty much solo and gear will be for belays, for the seconds on traverses, or for back-up/espcape in case the weather deteriorates. If you really need gear on lead on such routes in good conditions you should be asking yourself what happens to the beginners with you in the not that unlikely case that you slip and fall. I'd also not take beginners on multi-pitch mountain routes that I didnt know.

In reply to Mr Chris J:
Is it possible to climb AB without a MOAC?

In reply to iani:

no, you need two sets

In reply to Offwidth:

Actually I originally put the word guiding in 'apostrophies' but then changed my mind thinking I don't want to make myself out to be all knowing and big and clever and, well, just what you are flaming me as. I think actually that guiding is a good description for what it means to take two novices out on a large mountain route so just pipe down and stop trying to maliciously make someone else question themselves. Look at yourself first. (I'd have just used the appropriate phrase if this had been the pub!)

Also I want to reaffirm my opinion about carrying 10 x screw gates as belays that the leader is leaving two novices at are essentially then made up of anchors that are out of sight and that to me says carry the weight. And besides, they will carry their own screw gates when they clean the belay so it won't just be the leader doing the carrying.

In reply to Offwidth:

And actually, for someone who is so bent on questioning another's capability, demeanor or intention with regard to such a scenario as taking novices on a climb that other's here concur is not [necessarily] a walk in the park, to say that:
(besides having bad syntax at the end) is weighing pretty heavily on the end of the hypocritical stick. How have you got any knowledge of this random OP to know how to advise them other than to advise excess caution and let them decide for themselves whether it is overkill.

In reply to EZ:

Seems to me it's 'bigger and cleverer' missing the apostrophes out. I'm also not trying to flame you ... just interested.

I was trying to make some general points about 'guiding' which I guess in summary means if your not certain you are good enough, don't do it. Choose routes you won't likely ever fall off and preferably ones you know. The idea that someone might be concerned about gear is a good indication that they probably shouldnt be there. I see too many irresponsible leaders taking inexperinced climbers on adventures that could turn nasty if the leader ever fell.

I can't see why you'd need 10 screwgates either. I tend to use one per second on a sling cordallette set on normal crabs on the belay pieces.