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I've just started out doing a bit of road biking, and the road surface in Sheffield is just horrendous! I'm finding the vibrations through the bars into my wrists quite grim, especially on the faster downhills
Any suggestions? I currently have the stock 23mm tyres at ~100 psi. Would it be more comfortable on 25mm tyres at a lower pressure? Extra padded bar tape?
Many thanks
Any suggestions? I currently have the stock 23mm tyres at ~100 psi. Would it be more comfortable on 25mm tyres at a lower pressure? Extra padded bar tape?
Many thanks
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Carbon fibre bars/forks? I'm not a tarmac botherer but aren't they meant to be good for damping road vibration?
Carbon fibre bars/forks? I'm not a tarmac botherer but aren't they meant to be good for damping road vibration?
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Check your bike setup, if it's right you shouldn't have too much preasure on your hands anyway. Strangly this is counter intuitive, your bars could be too high (or close) so you're pushing back to hold the upright position.
If you get this right you should be comfy with your weight spread between bum, feet and hands with your back muscles taking some strain (but not too much) off your hands.
Hope that helps. The other things you mention will also help but you ought to be running the tyre preasure at the right value for the tyre and your weight.
Cheers
Toby
Check your bike setup, if it's right you shouldn't have too much preasure on your hands anyway. Strangly this is counter intuitive, your bars could be too high (or close) so you're pushing back to hold the upright position.
If you get this right you should be comfy with your weight spread between bum, feet and hands with your back muscles taking some strain (but not too much) off your hands.
Hope that helps. The other things you mention will also help but you ought to be running the tyre preasure at the right value for the tyre and your weight.
Cheers
Toby
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: 25mm at lower pressure will definitely help. Carbon seatpost may help too. If you aren't very heavy then you may be able to run your 23mm ata lower pressure. I'm 140 lbs and run rear at 100 and front at 70, some good info here http://www.adventurecycling.org/resources/200903_PSIRX_Heine.pdf
If you have a bit of money to spend then I would thoroughly recommend a pair of wider rim wheels. I've just had some Velocity a23 rims built up and they are brilliant. The 23mm width means a23mm tyre has a much rounder profile, less rolling resistance, ride like tubs and the ride quality is amazingly improved over thinner rims. They soak up the bumps brilliantly and now I can't quite work out why everyone doesn't ride them.
If you have a bit of money to spend then I would thoroughly recommend a pair of wider rim wheels. I've just had some Velocity a23 rims built up and they are brilliant. The 23mm width means a23mm tyre has a much rounder profile, less rolling resistance, ride like tubs and the ride quality is amazingly improved over thinner rims. They soak up the bumps brilliantly and now I can't quite work out why everyone doesn't ride them.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I'm guessing you are riding with your hands on the brake lever hoods.
Are your elbows bent or straight? You should have a bit of a bend at the elbow to absorb the road bumps rather than shock through your bones.
I'm guessing you are riding with your hands on the brake lever hoods.
Are your elbows bent or straight? You should have a bit of a bend at the elbow to absorb the road bumps rather than shock through your bones.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Unless you're racing fit the fattest tyres you can and put a double layer of tape on your bars.
Unless you're racing fit the fattest tyres you can and put a double layer of tape on your bars.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:a positive idea is to buy yourself a pair of neoprene sailing mitts
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: I definitely agree with carbon forks.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Some roads are just horrendous, when you find them, remember where they are and go a different way next time if at all possible. I have heard that Sheffield in general is pretty bad.
Get yourself some gel gloves which will help a bit, and some bar tape can be better than others. As mentioned, your position on the bike will make a bit of differnce, however there's no way to get away from it completely if the roads are bad.
The worse ones I find are the roads with half inch to an inch sized "stones" in them where the tarmac "glue" has worn away in between.
An example of this is a short section near the A6 junction at Chapel-en-le-Frith (Here: http://goo.gl/maps/3dWfW)
Some roads are just horrendous, when you find them, remember where they are and go a different way next time if at all possible. I have heard that Sheffield in general is pretty bad.
Get yourself some gel gloves which will help a bit, and some bar tape can be better than others. As mentioned, your position on the bike will make a bit of differnce, however there's no way to get away from it completely if the roads are bad.
The worse ones I find are the roads with half inch to an inch sized "stones" in them where the tarmac "glue" has worn away in between.
An example of this is a short section near the A6 junction at Chapel-en-le-Frith (Here: http://goo.gl/maps/3dWfW)
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Wilson Cycles on City Road (Sheffield) sells foam to put under your handlebar tape to help reduce the vibrations getting to your hands, i've bought some but i've not fitted it yet, it's ment to be better than just adding another layer of bar tape.
I guess you could mix that with extra padded bar tape if it wouldn't make the bars too fat to grip comfortably.
Wilson Cycles on City Road (Sheffield) sells foam to put under your handlebar tape to help reduce the vibrations getting to your hands, i've bought some but i've not fitted it yet, it's ment to be better than just adding another layer of bar tape.
I guess you could mix that with extra padded bar tape if it wouldn't make the bars too fat to grip comfortably.
In reply to JLS:
On the downhills I'm usually on the drops, covering the brakes! So bent arms, and if the road is bad, bum hovering just above the saddle so my legs + arms do the shock absorbing.
> I'm guessing you are riding with your hands on the brake lever hoods.
> Are your elbows bent or straight? You should have a bit of a bend at the elbow to absorb the road bumps rather than shock through your bones.
> Are your elbows bent or straight? You should have a bit of a bend at the elbow to absorb the road bumps rather than shock through your bones.
On the downhills I'm usually on the drops, covering the brakes! So bent arms, and if the road is bad, bum hovering just above the saddle so my legs + arms do the shock absorbing.
In reply to Toby_W:
How do I go about finding the right bike setup for my body? I haven't a clue! Is it worth paying an expert to do a 'bike fit' type thing?
> Check your bike setup, if it's right you shouldn't have too much preasure on your hands anyway. Strangly this is counter intuitive, your bars could be too high (or close) so you're pushing back to hold the upright position.
>
> If you get this right you should be comfy with your weight spread between bum, feet and hands with your back muscles taking some strain (but not too much) off your hands.
>
> If you get this right you should be comfy with your weight spread between bum, feet and hands with your back muscles taking some strain (but not too much) off your hands.
How do I go about finding the right bike setup for my body? I haven't a clue! Is it worth paying an expert to do a 'bike fit' type thing?
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
If you have headset spacers above your handlebar stem you could try raising your stem so you're not leaning as far forward/downwards onto the bars.
If you have headset spacers above your handlebar stem you could try raising your stem so you're not leaning as far forward/downwards onto the bars.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Keenly watching this thread for ideas. Did my first ride on the new roadie on Sunday and oh my word vibration city. Give me back my MTB (joking)!
Keenly watching this thread for ideas. Did my first ride on the new roadie on Sunday and oh my word vibration city. Give me back my MTB (joking)!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: hi nick
As others have said - in order of cost
1)get youriding position checked out.
2)padded bar tape - Fizik make a highly reviewed one.
3)starting to spend money now. Carbon forks,stem and handlebar,carbon seatpost - the german company Storck get benchmark re views for the comfort. Of their seatpost,I've ordered one my self.
Good luck
David
As others have said - in order of cost
1)get youriding position checked out.
2)padded bar tape - Fizik make a highly reviewed one.
3)starting to spend money now. Carbon forks,stem and handlebar,carbon seatpost - the german company Storck get benchmark re views for the comfort. Of their seatpost,I've ordered one my self.
Good luck
David
If you're new to road biking it might be worth just riding around for a bit to let your perceptions adjust. Relaxing on the bike counts for a lot. And is much cheaper than some of the alternatives, but then I'm tight
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
You might want to play around with tyre pressure - I seem to get away with running ~80 psi front and rear (23mm Conti GP4000S) and have never had a snakebite puncture. Massively more comfortable than 100 psi which I try from time to time. Definately not "by the book", but works for me. The change from the stock Bontrager tyres to the Contis also made a very noticeable difference.
You might want to play around with tyre pressure - I seem to get away with running ~80 psi front and rear (23mm Conti GP4000S) and have never had a snakebite puncture. Massively more comfortable than 100 psi which I try from time to time. Definately not "by the book", but works for me. The change from the stock Bontrager tyres to the Contis also made a very noticeable difference.
In reply to balmybaldwin:
yeah I second that, there is a fair bit of that around sheffield, the worst 2 bits as far as I have found is between meddowhall and eccelsfield and then along the side of millhouses park, both of them make you feel as if you are about to die! horrendous! not to mention the affects it has on bike itself!
in general I would advise planning around the crap roads and give it time, you will get used to it as I had the same to start with, I have however since I started switched to a full carbon set up, with double tape and also gel mits because as I said the feeling that everything is shaking apart isnt cool!
> (In reply to Nick Smith - UKC)
>
> The worse ones I find are the roads with half inch to an inch sized "stones" in them where the tarmac "glue" has worn away in between.
> An example of this is a short section near the A6 junction at Chapel-en-le-Frith (Here: http://goo.gl/maps/3dWfW)
>
> The worse ones I find are the roads with half inch to an inch sized "stones" in them where the tarmac "glue" has worn away in between.
> An example of this is a short section near the A6 junction at Chapel-en-le-Frith (Here: http://goo.gl/maps/3dWfW)
yeah I second that, there is a fair bit of that around sheffield, the worst 2 bits as far as I have found is between meddowhall and eccelsfield and then along the side of millhouses park, both of them make you feel as if you are about to die! horrendous! not to mention the affects it has on bike itself!
in general I would advise planning around the crap roads and give it time, you will get used to it as I had the same to start with, I have however since I started switched to a full carbon set up, with double tape and also gel mits because as I said the feeling that everything is shaking apart isnt cool!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: i laugh in the face of harsh roads with my 27x1.25's@<80psi(i may go a bit slower, but who cares?)
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
+1 for bike fit, fisik bar gel, specialized gel gloves, carbon forks and seat post and shoes.
Not very 'the rules' but a pair of cyclocross interrupter brakes means you can descend in 2 positions so vary the pressure points.
+1 for bike fit, fisik bar gel, specialized gel gloves, carbon forks and seat post and shoes.
Not very 'the rules' but a pair of cyclocross interrupter brakes means you can descend in 2 positions so vary the pressure points.
In reply to Marek: Thanks to everyone for all the advice
I've now fitted 25mm Conti GP4000S at 90 psi. Not really sure how much difference it has made - but they seem to soak up the small road imperfections better, but don't make any difference on the big bumps which I can't avoid.
Next I'm going to try adding gel pads or just wind another layer of padded tape on the drops. That's where I get most of the vibration on the downhills. I'm trying to sit further back to take weight off my arms, and I've noticed that my arms are straight much more than I thought they were, so I'm going to work on keeping them bent.
I've got carbon frame/forks but alloy seatpost/stem/handlebars.
Cheers
I've now fitted 25mm Conti GP4000S at 90 psi. Not really sure how much difference it has made - but they seem to soak up the small road imperfections better, but don't make any difference on the big bumps which I can't avoid.
Next I'm going to try adding gel pads or just wind another layer of padded tape on the drops. That's where I get most of the vibration on the downhills. I'm trying to sit further back to take weight off my arms, and I've noticed that my arms are straight much more than I thought they were, so I'm going to work on keeping them bent.
I've got carbon frame/forks but alloy seatpost/stem/handlebars.
Cheers
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Some good practical advice. I'd add to watch your riding position. When you see a rough bit of road, lift yourself out of the saddle and 'balance' on bent arms and legs, think of using them as shock absorbers.
2nd, keep at it, you will quickly MTFU. Nothing to do with being soft now, but do you remember the first time you went climbing? Bet loads of things hurt then, your body soon gets used and finds the easiest path.
Some good practical advice. I'd add to watch your riding position. When you see a rough bit of road, lift yourself out of the saddle and 'balance' on bent arms and legs, think of using them as shock absorbers.
2nd, keep at it, you will quickly MTFU. Nothing to do with being soft now, but do you remember the first time you went climbing? Bet loads of things hurt then, your body soon gets used and finds the easiest path.
In reply to Tiberius:
Sorry forgot to add, I've not seen it mentioned by do you have reasonable padded bike mitts? These help a lot, just slight padding in the important places.
Sorry forgot to add, I've not seen it mentioned by do you have reasonable padded bike mitts? These help a lot, just slight padding in the important places.
In reply to Tiberius:
Sorry, finally forgot to add, the mitts don't need to be expensive, the cheap one's from Aldi aren't bad. (check that you can get them off ok, getting them on is usually easy).
Sorry, finally forgot to add, the mitts don't need to be expensive, the cheap one's from Aldi aren't bad. (check that you can get them off ok, getting them on is usually easy).
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: You should try riding in North Wales.. every so often you get a change from great tarmac to shocking tarmac, rough pebbles.. we've just worked out its whenever you go from Conwy council.. who have money.. to Gwynedd council who don't...
In reply to IainRUK: Similar here - Sheffield (South Yorkshire) has terrible tarmac, but is generally much better as soon as you cross into Derbyshire.
I like the sound of a training holiday to N.Wales - running in Gwynedd and riding in Conwy!
I like the sound of a training holiday to N.Wales - running in Gwynedd and riding in Conwy!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
You could always start with a swim from Anglesea
>
>
> I like the sound of a training holiday to N.Wales - running in Gwynedd and riding in Conwy!
>
> I like the sound of a training holiday to N.Wales - running in Gwynedd and riding in Conwy!
You could always start with a swim from Anglesea
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
get a mountain bike....
Off road downhill, drop heels, weight back - to get weight through pedals and off the bars. not sure if roadies do this as well, but worth a try
get a mountain bike....
Off road downhill, drop heels, weight back - to get weight through pedals and off the bars. not sure if roadies do this as well, but worth a try
In reply to ChrisJD:
Maybe a Mountain Bike with 'Tomac style back in the day dropped bars' ! >
http://twitpic.com/aho7qg
Maybe a Mountain Bike with 'Tomac style back in the day dropped bars' ! >
http://twitpic.com/aho7qg
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