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7b recommendations

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 bpmclimb 16 Sep 2012
I live in Bristol and want to get stuck in to a couple of good 7b redpoint projects this autumn. I'd be interested to hear recommendations for routes in my area. Not too high in the grade, technical wall-climbing rather than pump-fests would probably suit me best. Many thanks.
 ericinbristol 16 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Ones that will go down pretty quickly with that style of climbing are
Cheddar: Big Mac Regurgitator, All Hands to the Pumo, Always Tomorrow, My Sweet Gord, Sheer Lunacy, Skullduggery (the direct version to get the 7b tick)
Uphill: Chiming for You
Brean: Clashing Socks
 ericinbristol 16 Sep 2012
Typo: Pump not Pumo
 Didymus 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Bitter and Twisted, Skullduggery, All Hands to the Pump
 The Pylon King 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Guy and Paul are the ones to ask for this sorta stuff.
 The Pylon King 17 Sep 2012
In reply to Mr Mark Stephen Davies:


oh, and Dick
 Quarryboy 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Don't know about 7b but at 7a+ islands in the city at cheddar felt very soft touch.
 Lhod 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Add Still Waters Run Deep to that list. Sherryland at 7a+ next to it is worth doing. Also have a look at Bluepoint, I thought quite hard 7a+ and techy wall climbing.
 cornishben 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:
Latest Craze at Ban-y-gor fits the bill and is a cracking route

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=84304
 Paul Robertson 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:
Ripe Old Age (somewhat appropriately)
 Stefan Kruger 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Try my Cheddar 7s tick list...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=201
OP bpmclimb 17 Sep 2012
In reply to all:

Thanks for the suggestions, everybody.

I've always been careful to restrict the number of climbs on my wishlist to a maximum of 40; looks like it's time to up that to 50!
 The Ivanator 17 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb: Or tick some of the current 40 to make room! If you are heading for any of the Ban-y-Gor suggestions then pack the insect repellent, was there recently and got eaten alive.
Looks like there are lots of good routes at around 7b there though, although that is a grade that's well beyond me, not sure there is so much in the way of technical wall climbing, more like roofsville thuggery!
OP bpmclimb 18 Sep 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to bpmclimb) Or tick some of the current 40 to make room!

Well, yes, they're not forgotten. Trouble is, all that slabby trad at FCQ has given me big balls but puny muscles! Part of the point of targeting some hard sport redpoints is to get some of that sort of fitness back. Eventual aim is to tackle some hard trad (e.g. Strange Little Girl), with some hope of clean leads.

Several items on my wishlist are trad climbs which I failed on for one reason or another. I want to be fully fit and going really well before I get back on them; I get very frustrated when I'm repeatedly
spanked by the same climb. Top of that particular list is Bulging Flies.
 hms 18 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:Would you be looking for a partner too, Brian? Cos a 7b redpoint is exactly what I should be getting on now. Kate has already expressed an interest in Uphill, and I'm nore than happy to have a sneak preview before she trounces me! I'd also add to your list possibly Root of Inequity at Brean - 7a+ or 7b depending which book you look at. I'm dying to try that one too...
 cornishben 18 Sep 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
> not sure there is so much in the way of technical wall climbing, more like roofsville thuggery!

my above suggestion for Latest Craze is the anomaly there, fantastic balancy insecure wall climbing

OP bpmclimb 18 Sep 2012
In reply to hms:

Yes indeed! I don't even mind if you progress faster than me - within reason
 AJM 18 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:

Stuff i have done (would recommend them as good routes, most should fit with your needs but you should know from the description if it's for you or not):
- Skullduggery is probably at the very gentle end of the grade, a few pulls to start, then a rest, then some thin teching
- Still waters run deep is an excellent route, a bit of a wombling start thesite ugh on the lower headwall; similar sort of stuff to Shakin but harder. Bit of a rest before the top which is sequency but not very hard once you know where you are going.
- Living Dead is more continuous than Chiming for you - I've only had one play on the latter but wasn't terribly inspired to go back to it, it's quite easy up to a very hard crux near the top. Thin and crimpy, big ledge in the middle as a rest between the two sections, the upper section gradually steepens and gets tougher with a crux right up near the top.
- less your stated style but as a working-weaknesses suggestion there's always Spy in the sky which is a bit of power endurance to a massive jug with a few stiff pulls above. One to do to consolidate styles perhaps...

Stuff I've not done:
- All hands to the Pump I've been told is 7a+ for tallish (I've the impression average or above male height) folks?
- Thermopylae I've been told is as good as still waters, roof easy wall above hard
- Donner und blitzen I belayed a friend on, quite cruxy near the bottom, quite fingery, then eases dramatically
- from talking to people Ripe old Age next to it is apparently much harder, thin smearing and side pull fun, but the better route and very good.
 AJM 18 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

My description of still waters appears to have been eaten by my autocorrect. Anyway, wombling start, crux on lower headwall, rest, outro is about how it breaks down.
 AJM 18 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb:
> Several items on my wishlist are trad climbs which I failed on for one reason or another. I want to be fully fit and going really well before I get back on them; I get very frustrated when I'm repeatedly
> spanked by the same climb. Top of that particular list is Bulging Flies.

I certainly find that because of the pace I climb at onsighting versus redpointing, amongst other factors, redpointing fitness doesn't translate terribly well in the short term to good trad onsight performances. The holds on your target routes will undoubtedly be larger than on your 7b redpoints but you won't spend more than a few seconds on each one on redpoint.

I would rate sport onsighting over sport redpointing in terms of transferability to trad, and whilst sport redpointing will help your sport onsighting I still need to do a good amount of sport onsighting to see the improvement, and then again moving from sport onsighting to trad onsighting I need to grt some miles under my belt before it transfers properly.
 hms 18 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb: And I don't mind if Kate progresses quicker than me. Oh, hang on, actually yes I do!! But Kate refuses point blank to go to Ban-y-Gor so I can still steal a march on her there. Pet Cemetary maybe - benchmark 7a, supposed to be v good, brutey top, haven't tried it but would love to.
 richardr 18 Sep 2012
In reply to bpmclimb: Latest Craze would be pretty hard if you were looking for a first 7b, Nelson Mandela isn't that hard and ticks the technical box.
OP bpmclimb 21 Sep 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to bpmclimb) Or tick some of the current 40 to make room!


I'm taking your advice - ticked 2 of them today


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