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Just ordered my first mountain bike (a hardtail), but I haven't really got a clue, so any advice about 'essentials' would be much appreciated. e.g., good cleaning products, lube, tools to carry, books on maintenance, etc.
Do most mountain bikers carry a backpack + hydration bladder rather than water bottles on the frame? Inner tubes or tubeless?
Many thanks!
Do most mountain bikers carry a backpack + hydration bladder rather than water bottles on the frame? Inner tubes or tubeless?
Many thanks!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I generally do. Don't have bottle cages on the bike. I take a some allen keys, chain tool, a pump and a spare tube with me. Never needed more than that and very rarely have punctured at all, although I think there are some press on puncture patches in the handle of my pump if I ever punctured twice. If I was overnighting I'd take a multitool with some pliers as well but can't think of anything else I would want.
> Do most mountain bikers carry a backpack + hydration bladder rather than water bottles on the frame? Inner tubes or tubeless?
I generally do. Don't have bottle cages on the bike. I take a some allen keys, chain tool, a pump and a spare tube with me. Never needed more than that and very rarely have punctured at all, although I think there are some press on puncture patches in the handle of my pump if I ever punctured twice. If I was overnighting I'd take a multitool with some pliers as well but can't think of anything else I would want.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: I always carry a small Camelbak with a few bits and bobs in just in case a breakdown (spare innertube, tools, pump, puncture repair kit) plus the bladder, just makes it easier if tackling an off road section to continue pedaling whilst drinking instead of stopping etc.
As for cleaning, I boughT all Muc Offs products in an offer and found it well worth the money, its amazing stuff but Halfords do a similar product now which is a little cheaper.
As for cleaning, I boughT all Muc Offs products in an offer and found it well worth the money, its amazing stuff but Halfords do a similar product now which is a little cheaper.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: as above , no bottles - they jump out the cages, multi tool and little park chain tool, 2 tubes (i ve gone tubeless but still carry 2). i asked regular mtb pals and bike shop owner "why do you all wear those baggy shorts ? " answer : " dont know really , all the pockets get in the way ". also get some lights and get out at night, great winter alternative to the wall, lots of threads on here about lights , i ve got magic shines - cheap and cheerful but do the job .
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: For me it is identical to the road bike, just a fatter tub in my back pocket and a spare 9 seed chain link rather than 10 and different shoes. Multi tool and pump (with CO2 cattridge) in back pocket. Bottel on the bike
I run tubeless wheels, and totaly rate them, bit more faff up front but better when you are out.
I run tubeless wheels, and totaly rate them, bit more faff up front but better when you are out.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
From personal preference only I run tubeless tyres, but they're not for everyone and realistically don't save much weight. However it means I can run my tyres at pressures around 25-28 PSI and still avoid pinch flats. It is worth noting that I do carry quite a lot, and that tubeless tyres can get punctures so you still need to carry the gear to repair them too, unless you don't mind the walk back. This will almost always mean putting a tube in the tyre.
I also carry a bladder as one my bikes doesn't have bottle mounts either, also bottle being low on the frame can get covered in muck on particularly muddy rides.
As for tools I carry the following:
- A multi tool with a chain breaker in it
- Inner tubes and pump
- Puncture repair kit and tyre levers
- Materials to repair a torn tyre side wall(a toothpaste tube cut open and cleaned and zip ties)
- Spare chain power link/chain pin
- Fork/shock pump
- Spare mech hanger - one day you will catch the mech and twist or break the hanger!
- Spare brake pads
- 8mm spanner
The last one is only because of the hose fixings on my brakes. I managed once to crash and partially unscrew it resulting in brake fluid leaking slowly out of the joint. If I'd of had the spanner I wouldn't of had to abandon the ride due to a lack of front brakes. In other words you'll learn from experience what you want to carry, but the above is my list to date.
I also always carry a front and rear light, pertex jacket, spare jersey/softshell, phone, wallet, map and compass. Often I'll take a GPS too. All the above can fit into a 10 litre bag with careful packing.
Cleaning I just hose the bike off and give it a brush down to loosen encrusted dirt, generally not using any detergents or products, although occasionally I do use car wash and have never had a problem. Just be careful not to get any products on brake pads or discs.
Pre ride I'll often lube the chain and occasionally the fork stanchions if they require it (needs a different product). Other occasional things include re-greasing bearings every few months and adding sealant to my tyres - only because they are tubeless.
As for maintenance books I have a copy of "Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance" which seems pretty good. Also the park tools website is useful too.
Once again all of the above is only a personal recommendation so feel free to disagree. The most useful advice I can give though is just head out, have fun and enjoy!
From personal preference only I run tubeless tyres, but they're not for everyone and realistically don't save much weight. However it means I can run my tyres at pressures around 25-28 PSI and still avoid pinch flats. It is worth noting that I do carry quite a lot, and that tubeless tyres can get punctures so you still need to carry the gear to repair them too, unless you don't mind the walk back. This will almost always mean putting a tube in the tyre.
I also carry a bladder as one my bikes doesn't have bottle mounts either, also bottle being low on the frame can get covered in muck on particularly muddy rides.
As for tools I carry the following:
- A multi tool with a chain breaker in it
- Inner tubes and pump
- Puncture repair kit and tyre levers
- Materials to repair a torn tyre side wall(a toothpaste tube cut open and cleaned and zip ties)
- Spare chain power link/chain pin
- Fork/shock pump
- Spare mech hanger - one day you will catch the mech and twist or break the hanger!
- Spare brake pads
- 8mm spanner
The last one is only because of the hose fixings on my brakes. I managed once to crash and partially unscrew it resulting in brake fluid leaking slowly out of the joint. If I'd of had the spanner I wouldn't of had to abandon the ride due to a lack of front brakes. In other words you'll learn from experience what you want to carry, but the above is my list to date.
I also always carry a front and rear light, pertex jacket, spare jersey/softshell, phone, wallet, map and compass. Often I'll take a GPS too. All the above can fit into a 10 litre bag with careful packing.
Cleaning I just hose the bike off and give it a brush down to loosen encrusted dirt, generally not using any detergents or products, although occasionally I do use car wash and have never had a problem. Just be careful not to get any products on brake pads or discs.
Pre ride I'll often lube the chain and occasionally the fork stanchions if they require it (needs a different product). Other occasional things include re-greasing bearings every few months and adding sealant to my tyres - only because they are tubeless.
As for maintenance books I have a copy of "Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance" which seems pretty good. Also the park tools website is useful too.
Once again all of the above is only a personal recommendation so feel free to disagree. The most useful advice I can give though is just head out, have fun and enjoy!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I've a small Camelback - Lobo I think - can get most stuff in it. Tend not to do the ultra technical gnarly stuff and have never blown a tyre to need the emergency repairs that that requires. Carry:
multitool
pump
spare inner
patch kit
mobile
energy bars
Then add extra depending on how long/remote the route is. If there's two or more of you (recommended) then you can share some of the less used stuff.
If I'm going on a long day ride or a bothy stop then I'll use an OMM sack which will take the Camelback bladder.
Like a lot of these things it's a case of analysing what you use on a ride and adjusting over time.
ALC
I've a small Camelback - Lobo I think - can get most stuff in it. Tend not to do the ultra technical gnarly stuff and have never blown a tyre to need the emergency repairs that that requires. Carry:
multitool
pump
spare inner
patch kit
mobile
energy bars
Then add extra depending on how long/remote the route is. If there's two or more of you (recommended) then you can share some of the less used stuff.
If I'm going on a long day ride or a bothy stop then I'll use an OMM sack which will take the Camelback bladder.
Like a lot of these things it's a case of analysing what you use on a ride and adjusting over time.
ALC
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Surprised there has been no mention of the repair kit staples, duct tape (wrap some round your pump) and few cable ties. Also carry a piece of old inner tube or tyre for a tyre boot. Probably goes without saying but map and compass should be in the bag too.
Surprised there has been no mention of the repair kit staples, duct tape (wrap some round your pump) and few cable ties. Also carry a piece of old inner tube or tyre for a tyre boot. Probably goes without saying but map and compass should be in the bag too.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: In terms of what to carry...
On what I think of as shorter rides where I won't ever get too far from the car i personally carry...... nothing. I'll stick a few sweeities in a pocket and a mobile in the other (very important if riding alone I think)and that's it, as I just prefer the feel and weight of riding without a pack on. I maybe get one or two punctures a year (tubeless) and the odd mechanical, and when that happens I just push my lower lip out and sulk back to the car to fix it.
If you are going to pack stuff (longer rides or less sulking) I'd take a small pack(10ltr or less) with:
Pump
Tube
Patches
Tyre lever (s?)
Hydration pack
Multi tool (hex keys)
Chain breaking tool (park ones best I think)
Finger Tape (for general bike and person repair)
Mobile phone
Spare Thermal or Jacket
As for tubeless - it's good and bad.
Good
Very puncture resistant, especially with UST or tubless specific tyres.
Very slightly lighter (especially compared to tyres heavy enough to give similair puncture resitance).
Bad
Can be a hassle to set up (you often need a compressor to seat the tyre onto the rim).
Hassle if you want to change tyres regularly for different conditions.
Not all tyres work well w all rims. Trial and error process to get good combos.
Can still blow or puncture in really big impacts esp if you use lighter weight tyres.
I rate it personally as i just can't get the puncture resistance I need out of normal tubed XC tyres but to start I'd try tubes first as a simpler system and if you find you're getting loads of punctures then maybe think about the switch.
On what I think of as shorter rides where I won't ever get too far from the car i personally carry...... nothing. I'll stick a few sweeities in a pocket and a mobile in the other (very important if riding alone I think)and that's it, as I just prefer the feel and weight of riding without a pack on. I maybe get one or two punctures a year (tubeless) and the odd mechanical, and when that happens I just push my lower lip out and sulk back to the car to fix it.
If you are going to pack stuff (longer rides or less sulking) I'd take a small pack(10ltr or less) with:
Pump
Tube
Patches
Tyre lever (s?)
Hydration pack
Multi tool (hex keys)
Chain breaking tool (park ones best I think)
Finger Tape (for general bike and person repair)
Mobile phone
Spare Thermal or Jacket
As for tubeless - it's good and bad.
Good
Very puncture resistant, especially with UST or tubless specific tyres.
Very slightly lighter (especially compared to tyres heavy enough to give similair puncture resitance).
Bad
Can be a hassle to set up (you often need a compressor to seat the tyre onto the rim).
Hassle if you want to change tyres regularly for different conditions.
Not all tyres work well w all rims. Trial and error process to get good combos.
Can still blow or puncture in really big impacts esp if you use lighter weight tyres.
I rate it personally as i just can't get the puncture resistance I need out of normal tubed XC tyres but to start I'd try tubes first as a simpler system and if you find you're getting loads of punctures then maybe think about the switch.
I'll vote for keeping a bottle on the frame, not on my back. It's a kilo less to carry on your back, on a long ride, plus if your experiences with hydration bladders are anything like mine you'll know you can't rely on them.
Get a bottle with an extra lid to keep mud and worse off the drinking nipple, though. Currently about £4 (including the cage) in tesco.
In addition to all mentioned above, an old toothpaste tube, slit open lengthwise, with the top cut off and the toothpaste washed out makes for excellent emergency tyre repairs.
Get a bottle with an extra lid to keep mud and worse off the drinking nipple, though. Currently about £4 (including the cage) in tesco.
In addition to all mentioned above, an old toothpaste tube, slit open lengthwise, with the top cut off and the toothpaste washed out makes for excellent emergency tyre repairs.
Plus, get some padded shorts (lycra or baggy up to you) and protective gloves.
Hang on, you're a computer nerd like me aren't you. If you have problems with repetitive strain etc, consider the specialized body geometry gloves which have gel padding to reduce vibration. They come in two varieties, the more expensive ones have more gel. It's worth looking after your hands! The fingered ones aren't so warm so I use a fingerless BG glove in summer and a different brand altogether for winter.
Hang on, you're a computer nerd like me aren't you. If you have problems with repetitive strain etc, consider the specialized body geometry gloves which have gel padding to reduce vibration. They come in two varieties, the more expensive ones have more gel. It's worth looking after your hands! The fingered ones aren't so warm so I use a fingerless BG glove in summer and a different brand altogether for winter.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Thanks for all the great tips so far
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Essential #1 - an old sock.
Sports socks are particularly good, those with towelling inside that go really rough after a dozen washes - pefect. Take one with you on any ride over 20 miles if it's wet, muddy or just generally british. Use to clean chain should you start getting chain suck or similar problems, then re-lube. Yep, carry a small bottle of lube, but it's pointless putting it on a muddy chain.
Esential #2 - a long screwdriver - e.g. http://tinyurl.com/8tkhxha
Yes you'll need a fancy multi-tool as well, but there are times when you need something a bit longer and with more leverage.
This little £2 beauty saved my bacon at the Kielder 100 on saturday when I had a horrendous chain jam - changing down in deep mud and the chain got completely stuck between granny and middle ring. Five minutes of prising it out with the screwdriver and a clean from Mr Sock and I was good to go !!
I'm a big fan of tubeless. Bit of a pain to set up at first, and I still get punctures, but nowhere near as many as I used to have. Also they are generally easier and quicker to fix on the trail. The only problem is that the fixes are only temporary - usually enough to get you home, but not always. Had a puncture at 30 miles on Sat - plugged it, it popped out after 60 miles, bigger plug took me through to 95 miles before going. So I had to fix it again, got overtaken by 20 people and got midged to death !
Essential #1 - an old sock.
Sports socks are particularly good, those with towelling inside that go really rough after a dozen washes - pefect. Take one with you on any ride over 20 miles if it's wet, muddy or just generally british. Use to clean chain should you start getting chain suck or similar problems, then re-lube. Yep, carry a small bottle of lube, but it's pointless putting it on a muddy chain.
Esential #2 - a long screwdriver - e.g. http://tinyurl.com/8tkhxha
Yes you'll need a fancy multi-tool as well, but there are times when you need something a bit longer and with more leverage.
This little £2 beauty saved my bacon at the Kielder 100 on saturday when I had a horrendous chain jam - changing down in deep mud and the chain got completely stuck between granny and middle ring. Five minutes of prising it out with the screwdriver and a clean from Mr Sock and I was good to go !!
I'm a big fan of tubeless. Bit of a pain to set up at first, and I still get punctures, but nowhere near as many as I used to have. Also they are generally easier and quicker to fix on the trail. The only problem is that the fixes are only temporary - usually enough to get you home, but not always. Had a puncture at 30 miles on Sat - plugged it, it popped out after 60 miles, bigger plug took me through to 95 miles before going. So I had to fix it again, got overtaken by 20 people and got midged to death !
In reply to Dw:
Having broken the hanger on my commuter this year I can see the attraction of doing this, but that's the first time I've done that in 30+ years of having bikes including 2-3000 kms a year for about the last decade. I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed not to do it again for some time!
Why? Genuine question. The brake pads on my two disc equipped bikes seem to wear fantastically (i.e. very little). I've just changed one pair on my commuter, but that's after 4 years and maybe 10,000 kms! Do you do lots of hardcore downhill and really wear them out?
> - Spare mech hanger - one day you will catch the mech and twist or break the hanger!
Having broken the hanger on my commuter this year I can see the attraction of doing this, but that's the first time I've done that in 30+ years of having bikes including 2-3000 kms a year for about the last decade. I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed not to do it again for some time!
> - Spare brake pads
Why? Genuine question. The brake pads on my two disc equipped bikes seem to wear fantastically (i.e. very little). I've just changed one pair on my commuter, but that's after 4 years and maybe 10,000 kms! Do you do lots of hardcore downhill and really wear them out?
In reply to TobyA:
Unfortunately I seem to get through about 1 or 2 a year! Something to do with swiping rocks and crashing a bit too regularly perhaps. Definitely need to work on my skills more.
I do tend to do a bit of DH biased stuff I guess, but mostly focus on just riding the natural stuff, things like Styhead pass and Scarth gap in the lakes make the odd apperance. Certainly in some areas (Peak District) the muddy grit and sand can chew through some pads quite fast. Especially when I run the organic ones rather than sintered. It is mostly a precaution though for long days out, but generally a set will last me half a year to a year and I don't want to get caught out when they do go.
Hope that helps!
> (In reply to Dw)
>
> [...]
>
> Having broken the hanger on my commuter this year I can see the attraction of doing this, but that's the first time I've done that in 30+ years of having bikes including 2-3000 kms a year for about the last decade. I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed not to do it again for some time!
>
>
> [...]
>
> Having broken the hanger on my commuter this year I can see the attraction of doing this, but that's the first time I've done that in 30+ years of having bikes including 2-3000 kms a year for about the last decade. I think I'll just keep my fingers crossed not to do it again for some time!
>
Unfortunately I seem to get through about 1 or 2 a year! Something to do with swiping rocks and crashing a bit too regularly perhaps. Definitely need to work on my skills more.
> [...]
>
> Why? Genuine question. The brake pads on my two disc equipped bikes seem to wear fantastically (i.e. very little). I've just changed one pair on my commuter, but that's after 4 years and maybe 10,000 kms! Do you do lots of hardcore downhill and really wear them out?
>
> Why? Genuine question. The brake pads on my two disc equipped bikes seem to wear fantastically (i.e. very little). I've just changed one pair on my commuter, but that's after 4 years and maybe 10,000 kms! Do you do lots of hardcore downhill and really wear them out?
I do tend to do a bit of DH biased stuff I guess, but mostly focus on just riding the natural stuff, things like Styhead pass and Scarth gap in the lakes make the odd apperance. Certainly in some areas (Peak District) the muddy grit and sand can chew through some pads quite fast. Especially when I run the organic ones rather than sintered. It is mostly a precaution though for long days out, but generally a set will last me half a year to a year and I don't want to get caught out when they do go.
Hope that helps!
In reply to TobyA:
At Kielder last year, people were abandoning after going through 2 or 3 pairs. My rear set (organic) went after 45 miles, the front (sintered) were down to the metal after 80. Both were new but bedded in. This year, no problem, but it was much drier
>
> Why? Genuine question. The brake pads on my two disc equipped bikes seem to wear fantastically
> Why? Genuine question. The brake pads on my two disc equipped bikes seem to wear fantastically
At Kielder last year, people were abandoning after going through 2 or 3 pairs. My rear set (organic) went after 45 miles, the front (sintered) were down to the metal after 80. Both were new but bedded in. This year, no problem, but it was much drier
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
It's the wet that makes the difference to all brake pads, for discs and rim brakes are even worse for this. - It turns the sand and grit into a cutting paste.
Going through floods in Shopshire this year in torrential rain, I halved the life of my pads on my road bike in 100 miles
It's the wet that makes the difference to all brake pads, for discs and rim brakes are even worse for this. - It turns the sand and grit into a cutting paste.
Going through floods in Shopshire this year in torrential rain, I halved the life of my pads on my road bike in 100 miles
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
for rides up to 4 hours or so, I carry a tiny backpack with camelback bladder, small first aid kit, multitool (which has chain tool and tyre levers), bit of grub plus a couple of packs of emergency Haribos, minipump, a tube and puncture repair kit, plus a few zip ties and bits and pieces for bodge repairs. And a credit card or banknote plus mobile. Lightweight waterproof if required.
I don't normally carry lube, but I've been using only wet lube this 'summer' because of the conditions, and I'd expect that to last a day's riding.
TBH, the less you can sensibly get away with carrying, the better. A bulky sac can affect your riding style.
Cleaning wise, I've got some rags, a couple of old toothbrushes and some degreaser. Usually just use the hose and the rags to de-crap the drivetrain so I can reapply lube, and occasionally have a more thorough go-over the cartridge etc with degreaser and brushes.
Youtube is your friend when it comes to basic mechanicals. You'll need a few extra tools if you plan to do a bit of spannering.
for rides up to 4 hours or so, I carry a tiny backpack with camelback bladder, small first aid kit, multitool (which has chain tool and tyre levers), bit of grub plus a couple of packs of emergency Haribos, minipump, a tube and puncture repair kit, plus a few zip ties and bits and pieces for bodge repairs. And a credit card or banknote plus mobile. Lightweight waterproof if required.
I don't normally carry lube, but I've been using only wet lube this 'summer' because of the conditions, and I'd expect that to last a day's riding.
TBH, the less you can sensibly get away with carrying, the better. A bulky sac can affect your riding style.
Cleaning wise, I've got some rags, a couple of old toothbrushes and some degreaser. Usually just use the hose and the rags to de-crap the drivetrain so I can reapply lube, and occasionally have a more thorough go-over the cartridge etc with degreaser and brushes.
Youtube is your friend when it comes to basic mechanicals. You'll need a few extra tools if you plan to do a bit of spannering.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Essentials to carry - if you ride on your own then carry ID.
As it's your first mountain bike, I'd suggest watching some of the "how to ride"/"mountain bike basics" stuff (there are a few longer vids on YouTube). Not essential, but there are a few things about braking, cornering, and body/foot positioning that aren't particularly obvious. Learning a bit about them first will make the learning curve in the first few months a bit less steep.
I didn't do this and crashed a bit more than I needed to.
Oh, and get bottled lube/oil instead of aerosol, otherwise it gets on your brake discs way too easily.
Essentials to carry - if you ride on your own then carry ID.
As it's your first mountain bike, I'd suggest watching some of the "how to ride"/"mountain bike basics" stuff (there are a few longer vids on YouTube). Not essential, but there are a few things about braking, cornering, and body/foot positioning that aren't particularly obvious. Learning a bit about them first will make the learning curve in the first few months a bit less steep.
I didn't do this and crashed a bit more than I needed to.
Oh, and get bottled lube/oil instead of aerosol, otherwise it gets on your brake discs way too easily.
In reply to a lakeland climber:
Had a puncture at the top of a descent earlier this year. My mate was in front. Guess which one of us had the pump. By the time I'd realized he had it, he was a long way down the hill. Now I always carry a pump.
SCD
> (In reply to Nick Smith - UKC)
>
> If there's two or more of you (recommended) then you can share some of the less used stuff
>
> If there's two or more of you (recommended) then you can share some of the less used stuff
Had a puncture at the top of a descent earlier this year. My mate was in front. Guess which one of us had the pump. By the time I'd realized he had it, he was a long way down the hill. Now I always carry a pump.
SCD
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
No one seems to have mentioned carrying a rear mech hanger. They are not that expensive and if you fall and the rear mech hanger breaks you could be looking at turning your bike into a single speed to get home if you've got a chain tool with you. Otherwise it might be a long walk back to the car.
No one seems to have mentioned carrying a rear mech hanger. They are not that expensive and if you fall and the rear mech hanger breaks you could be looking at turning your bike into a single speed to get home if you've got a chain tool with you. Otherwise it might be a long walk back to the car.
In reply to Jason Kirk: I think someone did mention it but yes it's worth thinking about, I've broken a few and do carry one. For hardtails take your choice, carry extra kit or risk riding a single speed. For full suss the singlespeeding repair is hard though I have seen it done.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Num Num takes nothing apart from a few patches and a pump. Most places, you're never too far away from a drink and a slab of cake.
Num Num takes nothing apart from a few patches and a pump. Most places, you're never too far away from a drink and a slab of cake.
Knee/shin and elbow/forearm Pads
If you're the sort of person thats likely to fall off, get some before you do!
I now wear mine almost every time, and they might give you the confidence to go for it and get better quicker.
They also give bramble protection and extra warmth in winter.
If you're the sort of person thats likely to fall off, get some before you do!
I now wear mine almost every time, and they might give you the confidence to go for it and get better quicker.
They also give bramble protection and extra warmth in winter.
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
They're not essentials, but once every so often really handy, the two different lengths of spokes needed for a rear wheel, 5 or so of each, and the Next Bext Thing 2 tool from Spa Cycles, the tool fits in the palm of your hand and you can remove your rear cassette with it to fit drive side spokes.
Have had a couple of mishaps leading to a few broken spokes on both sides of my rear wheel, and i've wished i'd been able to repace spokes on both sides so I can do more than limp back home again, and not be hoping my wheel will be okay.
They're not essentials, but once every so often really handy, the two different lengths of spokes needed for a rear wheel, 5 or so of each, and the Next Bext Thing 2 tool from Spa Cycles, the tool fits in the palm of your hand and you can remove your rear cassette with it to fit drive side spokes.
Have had a couple of mishaps leading to a few broken spokes on both sides of my rear wheel, and i've wished i'd been able to repace spokes on both sides so I can do more than limp back home again, and not be hoping my wheel will be okay.
In reply to Dan Arkle:
I'll second the knee pad thing. Also lights, good ones. Mine are so crap that I didn't bother with them tonight and fell off right at the end of the ride. Just back from hospital with a superglued knee. Lights would have meant Id have avoided the wet rock, knee pads would have meant no slashed knee.
As an aside, anyone else had serious grip issues with Continental Mountain Kings on wet rock? I get no traction whatsoever. Thinking of swapping for Maxxis High Rollers instead.
I'll second the knee pad thing. Also lights, good ones. Mine are so crap that I didn't bother with them tonight and fell off right at the end of the ride. Just back from hospital with a superglued knee. Lights would have meant Id have avoided the wet rock, knee pads would have meant no slashed knee.
As an aside, anyone else had serious grip issues with Continental Mountain Kings on wet rock? I get no traction whatsoever. Thinking of swapping for Maxxis High Rollers instead.
In reply to brokenbanjo:
Maxxis are the way to go.
Lots of options to suit every taste.
My flavour for Peak are foldable 2.4 High Roller II up front and 2.35 High Roller at back, both with Maxxis Freeride tubes. I go for 60a compound to make them last a bit.
I think a lot of Lakes riders go for Minions?
Maxxis are the way to go.
Lots of options to suit every taste.
My flavour for Peak are foldable 2.4 High Roller II up front and 2.35 High Roller at back, both with Maxxis Freeride tubes. I go for 60a compound to make them last a bit.
I think a lot of Lakes riders go for Minions?
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I've never got on well with multi tools - they are awkward for everything!! A couple of allen keys will do everything (5mm does most things, check your bike for what other sizes you are likely to need.) I have also used needle nosed pliers loads trail side. A proper screw driver is good. I find the chain tools on the multitools break quickly too so a proper chain tool is worth carrying. These things are not much heavier than a multi tool and MUCH more useful.
Pumps are not a simple choice - so many rubbish pumps out there. My friend got a really good one recently that has a wee fold out foot stand making it into a mini track pump which is great. Someone here will no doubt know who makes it.
I've never got on well with multi tools - they are awkward for everything!! A couple of allen keys will do everything (5mm does most things, check your bike for what other sizes you are likely to need.) I have also used needle nosed pliers loads trail side. A proper screw driver is good. I find the chain tools on the multitools break quickly too so a proper chain tool is worth carrying. These things are not much heavier than a multi tool and MUCH more useful.
Pumps are not a simple choice - so many rubbish pumps out there. My friend got a really good one recently that has a wee fold out foot stand making it into a mini track pump which is great. Someone here will no doubt know who makes it.
In reply to girlymonkey:
sounds like a Top Peak Mountain Morph: great pump
> Pumps are not a simple choice - so many rubbish pumps out there. My friend got a really good one recently that has a wee fold out foot stand making it into a mini track pump which is great. Someone here will no doubt know who makes it.
sounds like a Top Peak Mountain Morph: great pump
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Regarding pumps, I highly reccommend Mountain Pipe by Genuine Innovations - CO2 cannisters are really useful when you are in hurry (or surrounded by midges), but being able to use it as a hand pump is essential too
Great informational video here
youtube.com/watch?v=vOETf1vJLYQ&
You won't learn anything, but it's still worth a watch
Regarding pumps, I highly reccommend Mountain Pipe by Genuine Innovations - CO2 cannisters are really useful when you are in hurry (or surrounded by midges), but being able to use it as a hand pump is essential too
Great informational video here
youtube.com/watch?v=vOETf1vJLYQ&
You won't learn anything, but it's still worth a watch
In reply to ChrisJD: I'm pondering tyre issues at the moment too. Maxxis high rollers are great in everything except mud, and we never get that in South Wales do we. Minions, meanwhile, are pretty damn heavy and expensive for XC riding. I'm tempted by bonty mud x which are meant to be good all rounders but probably not as good as maxxis on rock, and also probably more prone to pinch flats.
In reply to Stone Muppet:
I have to say I find tyres bloody confusing with most manufacturers having more flavours of each tyre than you can shake stick it. Maxxis add further confusion with the High Rollers, High Rollers II and Minions being available in both Downhill and Mountain versions, the former are much heavier than the latter.
I have to say I find tyres bloody confusing with most manufacturers having more flavours of each tyre than you can shake stick it. Maxxis add further confusion with the High Rollers, High Rollers II and Minions being available in both Downhill and Mountain versions, the former are much heavier than the latter.
I can't even find those. Got a link for lightweight minions?
In reply to Horse:
WRT Tyres, I'm losing faith with Bontrager - I seem to get more punctures than my other mates who are tubeless. Admittedly I'm a lot heavier. Also had a problem with them de-laminating - air seeping between layers and causing a huge bubble on the outside.
Any recommendations for good all round and puncture resistant tubeless tyres ?
N.B. We'll probably get told off by Nick for going off message !
WRT Tyres, I'm losing faith with Bontrager - I seem to get more punctures than my other mates who are tubeless. Admittedly I'm a lot heavier. Also had a problem with them de-laminating - air seeping between layers and causing a huge bubble on the outside.
Any recommendations for good all round and puncture resistant tubeless tyres ?
N.B. We'll probably get told off by Nick for going off message !
In reply to Stone Muppet:
Here
http://www.maxxis.com/Bicycle/Mountain/Minion-DHF.aspx
and select specification for details.
I think this is one:
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/29166/Maxxis_Minion_Freeride_DHF_...
I wouldn't buy online without making sure it wasn't the downhill tractor tyre first.
Here
http://www.maxxis.com/Bicycle/Mountain/Minion-DHF.aspx
and select specification for details.
I think this is one:
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/29166/Maxxis_Minion_Freeride_DHF_...
I wouldn't buy online without making sure it wasn't the downhill tractor tyre first.
In reply to Horse:
It is a flipping nightamre! especially when trying to buy online.
The retailers get confused as well - they sent the 'wrong' High Roller-II when I last ordered: though confusing a DH 2.5 wire rim tyre with a folding 2.4 tyre took some skill.
SoneM
Minions - I did prefix it with 'Lakes riders' as get some well rocky descents up there
High Roller 2.35 60a - my favourite do it all tyre for Peak
> (In reply to Stone Muppet)
>
> I have to say I find tyres bloody confusing with most manufacturers having more flavours of each tyre than you can shake stick it. Maxxis add further confusion with the High Rollers, High Rollers II and Minions being available in both Downhill and Mountain versions, the former are much heavier than the latter.
>
> I have to say I find tyres bloody confusing with most manufacturers having more flavours of each tyre than you can shake stick it. Maxxis add further confusion with the High Rollers, High Rollers II and Minions being available in both Downhill and Mountain versions, the former are much heavier than the latter.
It is a flipping nightamre! especially when trying to buy online.
The retailers get confused as well - they sent the 'wrong' High Roller-II when I last ordered: though confusing a DH 2.5 wire rim tyre with a folding 2.4 tyre took some skill.
SoneM
Minions - I did prefix it with 'Lakes riders' as get some well rocky descents up there
High Roller 2.35 60a - my favourite do it all tyre for Peak
I think some retailers must deliberately make confusing pages so they can show up with low prices in google search results. When the tyre you actually want costs more.
In reply to ChrisJD:
Is good for the rocky stuff in the Lakes and Scotland, rolling resistance is awful but the grip going down is the bonus. A tyre for us winch and plummet types.
> (In reply to Horse)
> [...]
>
> High Roller 2.35 60a - my favourite do it all tyre for Peak
> [...]
>
> High Roller 2.35 60a - my favourite do it all tyre for Peak
Is good for the rocky stuff in the Lakes and Scotland, rolling resistance is awful but the grip going down is the bonus. A tyre for us winch and plummet types.
Weird, I thought Minion DHF and DHR respectively stood for Front and Rear, but apparently not. Still the one I'd want (700g and 2.35) appears as both DHF and DHR... huh?!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Well worth joining a local club to find out about the best trails and to pick up a few tips.
Don't forget to take your sense of humour on every ride..........
Well worth joining a local club to find out about the best trails and to pick up a few tips.
Don't forget to take your sense of humour on every ride..........
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: having had too many rides ruined by punctures i ALWAYS have a spare, plus pump.
On a recent sunday morning ride had that plus a cereal bar for just in case, plus a local (photocopy of a) map. But i knew the area so no need for compass.
at home for cleaning muc off is brill (spray for bike and then the special chain degreaser one) plus an old kitchen brush for getting the mud off.
just use normal 3in1 for oil, but then i'm running a singlespeed so tend not to bother too much.
On a recent sunday morning ride had that plus a cereal bar for just in case, plus a local (photocopy of a) map. But i knew the area so no need for compass.
at home for cleaning muc off is brill (spray for bike and then the special chain degreaser one) plus an old kitchen brush for getting the mud off.
just use normal 3in1 for oil, but then i'm running a singlespeed so tend not to bother too much.
I rarely carry a compass unless crossing large featureless moors or mountains. It's just not necessary on my average ride, which tends to follow either well-marked trails or woodland singletrack (which if you can't find without a compass, having one won't help, and in any case you've usually only got to go downhill to reach a road). I have only used a compass cycling once - following a bearing in a whiteout!
In reply to Timmd:
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s72p595
> (In reply to Nick Smith - UKC)
>
> They're not essentials, but once every so often really handy, the two different lengths of spokes needed for a rear wheel, 5 or so of each, and the Next Bext Thing 2 tool from Spa Cycles, the tool fits in the palm of your hand and you can remove your rear cassette with it to fit drive side spokes.
>
> Have had a couple of mishaps leading to a few broken spokes on both sides of my rear wheel, and i've wished i'd been able to repace spokes on both sides so I can do more than limp back home again, and not be hoping my wheel will be okay.
>
> They're not essentials, but once every so often really handy, the two different lengths of spokes needed for a rear wheel, 5 or so of each, and the Next Bext Thing 2 tool from Spa Cycles, the tool fits in the palm of your hand and you can remove your rear cassette with it to fit drive side spokes.
>
> Have had a couple of mishaps leading to a few broken spokes on both sides of my rear wheel, and i've wished i'd been able to repace spokes on both sides so I can do more than limp back home again, and not be hoping my wheel will be okay.
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s72p595
In reply to Stone Muppet:
No you were right, however the DHF is also commonly used as a rear option (it prioritises cornering over braking grip and rolls a little better than the DHR). I don't actually know many folk who use DHR's at all come to think of it.
> Weird, I thought Minion DHF and DHR respectively stood for Front and Rear, but apparently not.
No you were right, however the DHF is also commonly used as a rear option (it prioritises cornering over braking grip and rolls a little better than the DHR). I don't actually know many folk who use DHR's at all come to think of it.
In reply to Stone Muppet:
If you want a more "mud" option than a std high roller, then something like that Bonty might not be such a bad front wheel option. They'll roll a bit slower but might make a pretty good mixed conditions tyre. High Roller II's clear bit better too I think, they're a better intermediate/wet tire than the original.
A lot of my riding is fireroad / singletrack climbing and then steeeep and muddy descending. My go to winter tyre personally (for the front wheel) is a Maxxis Wet Scream 2.5, with the central spikes cut down slightly to help rolling resistance a bit. It's not light and even cut it rolls hellishly slowly (it would an awfull choice for "proper xc" riding, mine rides are climb up - bomb down) but the grip level is unreal in softer conditions and you get fit!
> (In reply to ChrisJD) I'm pondering tyre issues at the moment too. Maxxis high rollers are great in everything except mud, and we never get that in South Wales do we.
If you want a more "mud" option than a std high roller, then something like that Bonty might not be such a bad front wheel option. They'll roll a bit slower but might make a pretty good mixed conditions tyre. High Roller II's clear bit better too I think, they're a better intermediate/wet tire than the original.
A lot of my riding is fireroad / singletrack climbing and then steeeep and muddy descending. My go to winter tyre personally (for the front wheel) is a Maxxis Wet Scream 2.5, with the central spikes cut down slightly to help rolling resistance a bit. It's not light and even cut it rolls hellishly slowly (it would an awfull choice for "proper xc" riding, mine rides are climb up - bomb down) but the grip level is unreal in softer conditions and you get fit!
In reply to neil the weak:
>my rides are climb up - bomb down
In reply to Horse:
Isn't this what mountain biking 'should' be about.
Anything else is just being a roadie on a bike with big tyres ....and who wants to be a grumpy roadie
>my rides are climb up - bomb down
In reply to Horse:
> us winch and plummet types.
Isn't this what mountain biking 'should' be about.
Anything else is just being a roadie on a bike with big tyres ....and who wants to be a grumpy roadie
In reply to ChrisJD:
Indeed.
Back on topic (!) does the panel have any views of Schwalbe Hans Dampf or Conti Rubber Queens?
> (In reply to neil the weak)
>
> Isn't this what mountain biking 'should' be about.
>>
> Isn't this what mountain biking 'should' be about.
Indeed.
Back on topic (!) does the panel have any views of Schwalbe Hans Dampf or Conti Rubber Queens?
In reply to Horse:
I've currently (about 2 month) got a 2.4 black chilli ust rubber queen on the front, it sealed first time i seem to remember, rolls well, and I haven't found out how it's grip runs out yet.
I've currently (about 2 month) got a 2.4 black chilli ust rubber queen on the front, it sealed first time i seem to remember, rolls well, and I haven't found out how it's grip runs out yet.
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