In reply to Offwidth:
Sounds as though this climber died doing the route that we did by mistake, to the right of WotWS, which I think had a 90 foot run-out to the first and more or less only bolt on the first pitch.
I agree with all your comments. I do exactly the same there: climbing some of the harder, more run-out routes next to the smeary routes I lead to hone up the "steep slab" technique so necessary at JT. The grades assume that one has mastered the basics of that technique! When I said the 5.9 routes were *definitely* 5.9, what I really meant was definitely (at least) 5.9. I fell off one 5.9 unexpectedly, which would probably have been E1 in the UK.
Even some of the "semi-sport" routes can be quite dodgy (run-out and/or insecure) to the first bolt with potentially bad landings (examples: Heart and Sole, and Run For Your Life). One JT characteristic is very sustained pitches with the very hardest moves either at the beginning or right at the very end.
I always used to prefer E1's to HVS's in the UK, because HVS could be a bit of a funny grade, and I think the same is true of 5.10a vs 5.9 at JT and Yosemite: some of the 5.10a's seem more reasonable than the 5.9's. Maybe, it is just a mental thing (!) On the other hand some of the so-called low 5.10's at JT are very stiff and sustained for their grade (notable examples: Solid Gold and Figures on a Landscape - the locals admit the grades of these should probably be 5.10b and 5.10d, rather than 5.10a and 5.10b).
Newcomers from the UK should be aware that the guidebooks offer very little info/beta on the routes compared with UK guidebooks. Usually a minute line on a topo, with a few "x"'s indicating vaguely where bolts are, has to suffice.