UKC

Best Slabs in Yorkshire??

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molly2202 29 Jan 2013
Recently moved to Ilkley, and wondered what you all feel are the best Slabs in the area? These can be on Grit, or of course the local limestone.

Am getting the Wife into Trad slowly, as she is now a good lead indoors, but placing gear is a little alien to her....

So, best slabs or beginer leads?
 Tall Clare 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:

Dental Slab (severe) at Rylstone is cited as one of the best low-grade slabs in Yorkshire, but President's Slab (diff), also at Rylstone, might be more amenable to her.
 johnwright 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:
> Recently moved to Ilkley, and wondered what you all feel are the best Slabs in the area? These can be on Grit, or of course the local limestone.
> So, best slabs or beginer leads?

How about Chiseller at Ilkley Cow and Calf or Cooper slab with very little if any pro, Diff or Three slabs route, VD, both Ilkley Rocky valley.
 Baron Weasel 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202: Caley has some great slab bouldering for honing technique. Eastby would be worth a visit as it has some great slabs, but you should lead The Padder and let her follow. Most crags in Yorkshire, apart from Almscliff have a few good slabs. If you are going further south then Froggatt is the bis for good slabs!

BW
 Simon Caldwell 29 Jan 2013
In reply to johnwright:

Also a few at Crookrise (Arsenic Slab, various routes at End Slab area) and Eastby.

There aren't many I'd recommend as beginner leads though, due to boldness.
 GridNorth 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:

> Am getting the Wife into Trad slowly, as she is now a good lead indoors, but placing gear is a little alien to her....

Should be OK on slabs then as these tend to be less well protected.
 Peakpdr 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:

Wouldnt she be better doing routes that take loads of gear so she can get used to placing it ? instead of risking a fall on a slab ? as this would prob scare the sh#t out of her and she might not climb outdoors after that .
 snoop6060 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:

Psycho @ Caley. Bring all your mates with all their pads. The landing is pretty good.

I have been about half way up, never had it in me for the grand finale as yet. Its defo on the list of things to do one day!
 snoop6060 29 Jan 2013
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to molly2202)
>
> Psycho @ Caley. Bring all your mates with all their pads. The landing is pretty good.
>
> I have been about half way up, never had it in me for the grand finale as yet. Its defo on the list of things to do one day!

Haha, I should read the post properly! I see you say beginner leads. Psycho defo isn't in this catagory!
Removed User 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202: Get on the Low Man at Almscliff. It's slabby and there's that big ramp Diff thing going up the middle.
 Kid Spatula 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:

You can gear up Presidents Slab at Rylstone to your hearts content.
 John H Bull 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:
Some stuff at Brimham fits the bill: the slabby side of the Cubic Block, and Lichen Slab by Lovers Leap spring to mind.
 Maxey56 29 Jan 2013
The top pitch of the scoop at caley,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28650
Also the first pitch of A-climb at Ilkley(the chiseller) awesome varied long easy route
Frog art really is tip top for slabs though
molly2202 29 Jan 2013
In reply to molly2202:

Cheers all, some good suggestions - I should probs ad. She is leading indoors to F5c/6a/b ish, depending on the centre....

She has followed me up some daft Lakes routes that go at E3-4 6a/b ish?? (i dont take much notice of Tech grades Im afraid)

So technically she is no mug, and can climb well, it's the placing the right gear at the right time in the right place Im trying to achieve with her.

I may not be a great teacher of this, as have been known to run it out, as was taught, sometimes it's safer to get up the thing than hang around placing suspect wires! (Im from South Cumbria, so grew up on Langdale crags!)

Thanks for all the suggestions, appreciate it.....
 peteJ23 29 Jan 2013
Eastby

The whole crag is a slab of one kind or another
loads of mid range routes with good gears and some epic frighteners

5 mins from the car and usually empty

and it faces south

enjoy

Pete
 Al Evans 30 Jan 2013
In reply to peteJ23: THee's this great V Diff slab at Froggat called Three Pebble Slab (actually I think it's E1). But while you are in the area a Severe, Black Slab at Stanage is not to be missed (might be VS now if you need protection)

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