/ UKC Fit Club week 325

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Eagle River - on 09 Jun 2013
Another great week for Fit Club members, Daniel Heath getting London Wall, AJM crushing E4, Jimmy Kay tearing up Cider Soak, maria back in the E grades and WE HAVE AN OFFICIAL TEAM GB ATHLETE IN OUR MIDST!!! Take a bow IainRUK.

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (324) thread:

AJM: Strong week with the E4 onsights and attempts, good to see you on Friday.
IainRUK: Massive congratulations on your GB Team selection. Really impressive.
Joughton: How did you get on at Gogarth?
Biscuit: Don’t get sucked into that triathlon business, climbing climbing climbing…
Jamming Dodger: Seems like a decent amount of running/bike mileage last week, did you get out this week?
Nick Russell: Welcome! God luck n the E3 6a quest, my sport partner is aiming for the same thing and using sport to get the strength & fitness.
Mbh: Have the legs recovered from the Welsh 3000s yet?
Exile: Scotland trip sounded decent, did you get much climbing in this week?
Daniel Heath: Shame about the setting for the comp but I’m sure your London Wall antics have overshadowed that disappointment somewhat.
NorthernClamberer: how was the work/climbing balance this week?
Eagle River: Don’t talk to yourself.
NMN: Have you had a chance to put the trad coaching into practice this week?
Si dH: Hope the anniversary was fun, get much training done in the week?
Mattrm: Did you wrestle the car back from your wife for some climbing this week?
Leon: Heavy training week last week, has this week been more of the same?
JimmyKay: Really strong half term trip, congratulations for getting Cider Soak, one of the Classic UK 8as
Grubes: Did you get the trad and big routes you were hoping for?
Needkraken: Well done for getting on a Severe by choice on Monday.
Pork pie girl: How are you getting on with the top wall of Mescalito? Any plans for a rest day this month???
Nomics: Any luck with WYSIWYG?
Sankey: Well done on War Hero, any more ticks this week?
Quiddity: You getting back into the redpoint game?
C Chestwig (the man previously known as Ally Smith???): Did you get up to Kilnsey on Friday?
Stevemarkperry: Thanks for the links to your fear of heights blog posts, how was the work/bike/climb balance this week?
Curious Yellow: Did you get to Malham with Ali? If so what news of Something Stupid?
Ali: Anything to report from your Malham trip this weekend??????
Maria85: Well done on your comfortable E1 ascent, any more this week?
Luke Owens: Well done on last week’s V5 flash. Strong effort.
Useful: More mileage this week? Sounded like a fun day out on Dinas Cromlech last weekend.

Eagle River - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Goals: Quality routes in the 7c-8a grade range.

Tues: Craig Y Longridge, worked the traverse at the far right end of the crag, made some good progress.

Wed: A rare trad evening at Troy, worked out as a bit of active recovery from tues as I was just seconding my mate up stuff, really pleasant evening! Few E2s and E1s.

Friday: Kilnsey with AJM. Straight on RP on Biological Need, had a really nervous 1st attempt getting massively flash pumped and grabbed a draw (wimp!). Second go better but had no power left for the crux (at about 3/4 height). 3rd go made some mistakes and tried linking from 2nd bolt to top on last go but failed again. Good day out though!

Sill lacking stamina from those 2 weeks off and since I've got back I've not done any big links, been bolt-to-bolting routes to find one to project so no wonder I'm getting shut down on the RP attempts. Still, really enjoying BIological need.
AJM - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Cheers Steve, good to catch up. Fun evening Friday?

Indoor/training priorities
  • Keep up strength, flexibility and core training

  • Keep getting out as much as possible and push hard
  • Try more E4s
  • Get back on Ames Low, and try a real (ie not power stamina) V6/7 too
  • Tick some sport pyramid routes

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Right Hand Man
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far: 5xE3 onsight, 2xE3 flash, 2xE4 onsight>
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
  • Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip

  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight - ticked 2
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Black crag, Borrowdale. My friend had a good lead go on Prana, E3, but took a whipper off the crux and didn't have the juice to finish it. So I led it on his gear - the crux was above the runners and none of them were strenuous to place so it sped things up but otherwise made little difference. Crux moves were tricky but ok in the end. Then got on Grand Alliance, E4, and took a while to fathom this one out but got there in the end. Really nice pitch with a delicate traverse to start and a spicy feeling crux at the top. So that's E4 number 2 and another E3 in the bag!
T: Reecastle, Borrowdale. Seconded Rack Direct, E2, to warm up, way more strenuous than it looked like it should be. Then did Thumbscrew, E3, which was nice. A good venue with a decent selection of pretty well protected E2/3 routes, a good place to push the boat out perhaps especially if you're sport fit. Was deliberating having a go at White Noise, the other E3, but decided that after a bad nights sleep my arms didn't quite have it in them. So chilled out and had a BBQ instead
W: Gimmer. Repeated Kipling Groove to warm up, led the undercling pitch this time. Cracking route, had forgotten how nice it was. My mate couldn't get over the roof on Equus but with a bit more reach I was able to pull it out of the bag, brilliant brilliant route, guide says top end E2 but if you'd told me it was E3 I wouldn't have complained too much! Seconded Whits End Direct, which was nice. Feet so sore from little edges that I decided Eastern Hammer would have to wait for another trip, looks awesome but mega steep!
T: Dow. Both feeling pretty broken by this point! After talk of Tumble, E4, or any number of E2s, by the time we had sweated our way up to the crag in super muggy humid weather there was talk of whether we could justify doing Eliminate A, the classic VS, instead! Eventually decided to man up and did Sidewalk, which is an Extreme Rock E2 which doesn't get done very often, and has a rep for being a bit grubby - we knew someone had been on it the previous day though so figured now might be the time. It's a shame it doesn't get more traffic really as the first 3 pitches were good climbing, a bit grubby but dry and cleaning up. Above that the quality went down, to be fair, but there we go. Got midged at the top it was so oppressive and still. That was us finished really.
F: Kilnsey with Steve. Got beta-d up Directissima to start off, nice route if well loved! Then put the clips up biological need, Steves project, with his beta. Figured all but one move out but it felt hard. Got back on it once the shade came around, unleashed the Dragons on the footholds and came away with a decent sequence and it felt way easier. Had another go where I nearly managed to link the bouldery start (stopped by tips so thin they were basically sweating up at any opportunity, and you can't really stop to chalk), and did from the jugs by bolt 2 into the start of the crux, and a short section post crux from the first stuck on hold to the top. Last go I pulled up to bolt 2 to save the torture of the lower holds on my tips, but only managed a very short section before the whole of my body admitted defeat - I was done!
S: Rest
S: Rest

Well, the trip is done. A really good list of things done.

On the sport side I guess I've got a project at Kilnsey, although I need to get my sport power endurance firing on all cylinders I think after a lot of stamina and mileage but comparatively little sport-style forearm exploding shoulder trashing pump. Be good to get a bit more sport on the go now, been a while since I ticked anything really hard and 8a isn't going to climb itself! Ive got some unfinished business locally it would be good to clean up, 2 7b+s ( Mercurian Sump Dweller and Sing a mean toon kid) and a soft 7c (global solutions). And somewhere I need to find myself a second 7c+...

On the trad side, I wanted to do 10 E3s and an E4 this year and am now at 7 E3s and 2 E4s with over half a year left. And I've achieved huge swathes from my wish lists (The Moon, Prana, Grand Alliance, Equus and so on), done a clutch of Extreme Rock routes, my first ones I think, and a host of other routes besides.
- I've got some unfinished business, in that having run out of time/arms/psyche to do them on the days in question I want to do Eastern Hammer, Foil and Tumble on future trips.
- I failed miserably on a few things, with a rest on The Burner and a head fail on Samurai Groove right at the start, and on seconding Grond, although I note with amusement that Si dHs view of the grade is very different from that of the folks at Rockfax Towers!
- And then there's Resurrection, which I'm very pleased with, a glorious failure perhaps, but its also if I'm honest left me wondering whether I want to get back on it any time soon because I'm not sure I could replicate the effort I put in and the experience I had on it, maybe one to leave for a few more years not because I'm physically incapable of getting back on it and doing it cleanly but because I think almost anything I could do on it wouldn't be quite the same as having gone all out for it in the first place. That might be nonsensical rambling, I don't know. Time will tell.

Currently it looks like no work is forthcoming and that I've got a bit of time around home coming up, some local consolidation, and then maybe a trip to Cornwall at the end of the month. Other priority areas I want to visit are Sharpnose, Peak Lime trad, Yorkshire sport and Pembroke.
Quiddity - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Cheers Steve.

> You getting back into the redpoint game?

Yeah, not really attempted anything likely to take more than a go or two for a while. I do really enjoy the flow of a good redpoint attempt, though, it makes me realise it's one of the experiences in climbing I enjoy most.

weight back to 65kg.

onsight 3x 7a/+ and RP 3x 7b/+

Current avrg weight: 67.4kg
T: bouldering; PE circuits on crimp wall, roof circuits in catacomb
W: bouldering, PE circuits on crimp wall
T: 20 mins pumpy traversing during break at work.
S: Wallsend - Trying Ariane V. Mentally hot, as soon as the sun properly came over it halted all climbing until about 6pm. 2 goes, done all the moves and got a link from the start to where the overhang really starts to kick in. Really cool knee-barring-above-head moves. So much fun.
S: hopefully biscuit fact later.
Eagle River - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Quiddity:

How tall are you? From memory I thought you were a bit taller than me and I'm (a very scrawny) 65kg, would think that's a bit thin for someone taller than me!
Quiddity - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

I'm about 5'10. My weight goes up and down, generally I climb best at around 64-65 kg, which according to my scales is 10-12% BF. have been down below that but it's quite difficult to sustain long term. I think maximising my lank to weight ratio is more important for me as I'm not very strong I put on a bunch of weight over the winter while stressed at college and got up past 70 which really did my climbing no good at all.
Eagle River - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Quiddity:
Ah, OK. You're only an inch taller so not much difference. No idea about body fat but I've been 65kg for about 8yrs!
Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Quiddity: Eek. Sub 64kg and 5'10" is whippet territory. I'm only a couple of inches taller and a full 10kg heavier.

When we first met out in Turkey i was 70kg as a result of long-term stress and it felt decidedly unhealthy. 75kg now and it feels about right for redpointing 8b

Get some protein shakes down you post climbing and make sure you don't lose any muscle (SIS Rego is soy based/vegan friendly).
Quiddity - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

I think you are quite a lot more muscular than me though! I suspect you were bang on the money that the thing that holds me back is body strength. FWIW when I did a concerted burst of hypertrophy oriented strength training mostly targeting shoulders, a couple of years ago, I put on 2kg and went up about 2/3 V grades.

Think you are right about the protein though, it has made a big difference in the past when I have been training harder than I am now. SIS rego is good stuff, expensive though!
Banned User 77 - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Cheers, very pleased.. been a good week training..

2 more hard weeks, then start 2 weeks of taper..

m: 8 miles steady
t: lunch: 6 miles steady trail run. pm: 9 miles, 9k at 6:30 pace, 3k at 5:20 pace.
w: 8 miles steady
t: lunch: 4 miles. pm: 12.5 miles hard 6:25 pace on trails
f: 3 mile recovery run
s: chojnik marathon, 27 miles, 2200m ascent, 1st. pleased how well I climbed, managed to drop 2nd on the last climb to the finish after 25 miles.
s: 5.5 mile trail run
Jamming Dodger on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks; seem to have got a fairly decent amount done this week but my weekends seem to be going a bit awry with not as much done as i'd hoped. I may get a run in some weeks but its far from the weekly club run (bike) I used to do.
Weight is still solid at 8st12. Not bad considering I was 10st at the start of the year. Yikes.
Monday: Errrr nowt. Trying to rest my poorly foot. The bruise is pretty impressive!
Tuesday: Bollocks to the poorly foot: 11 mile run.
Wednesday: 28 mile commute to work.
Thursday: 10.5 mile run, 50 mins swim session (shouldve been an hour but I underestimated how hot/boring the run would be so I was late). The East Lancs Road is not pleasant or scenic and even the squirrels in Salford subways carry flickknives.
Friday: 28 miles bike. Felt a bit tired, mainly cause of the heat I think.
Saturday: Got tickets to Grillstock in Manchester. A great event which I hope spreads around! Never tasted food like it. It was proper Man v Food territory. Left at a respectable time though because we started drinking at 3pm and I didnt want to be totally ruined. In bed by 10:30pm. Rock 'n' roll.
Sunday: Nothing yet... Am about to go for a run but have loads of stuff to sort out here. Have an invite for a BBQ this eve. Mmmmmmnomnom
So, will prob do the same 11 mile loop today, bringing my total for the week to over 30 running miles. Pat on the back for me!
Hope everybody has a good week. H

Exile - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Good week actually thanks.

Great week AJM - I'm hoping for my first E4 onsight this summer so good to hear about your experiences.

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

This weeks focus: Lead trad'.

Weeks training:

M: Evening: 45min road run & 10min core
T: Evening: 2hrs climbing - Centipede Direct, Raven Crag, E2 6a & 5c. Short and sharp couple of cruxes. I led the 6a one - plenty of fitness but still taking time to read the moves - that's what comes of red pointing until now!
W: Morning: 45min 6b+ traverse. Good recovery session. Evening: 45min road run & 10min core.
T: Rest / worked late
F: Evening: 2hrs 30 climbing with my wife, (made use of my parents as baby sitters!) Route 1 (S) and route 2 (HS) Raven Crag Walthwaite, followed by bar meal and a few drinks with friends. Quality!!!
S: More parental babysitting so my wife and I did Jean Jeanie (VS 4c) at Trowbarrow before rushing back for the school fete.
S: Morning: 1hr 45 climbing Central Slab Rib(?) at Stickle Barn Crag. Its given E3 5c, which felt right to us, but it is quite eliminate - rumours it's going to be E1 ish in the new guide which could be right if you were less blinkered than our 'I won't use that - it's on the VS' approach. Anyway, good to do it reasonably easily.

Lots of climbing. Chuffed the Centipede Direct - it's not the hardest route in the world, but only my second trad' lead of the year so not too bad.
leon on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:
That sounds like an amazing week. Nice one. I AM SO JEALOUS!!!

Prana is high on my tick list for this year. I'll have to be motoring well though as it is tipped as high in the grade.
mbh - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Yes, thanks, my legs seem fine now. Well, fine enough to carry me along at the same plod as I do most times.

M: am 7.5 miles, pm 4 miles
T: nothing!
W: 6.5 miles trail
T: 6 miles coast path and woods
F 5 miles road
S: 13.2 miles, 2km swim
S: 10.1 miles, 2km swim

Both the weekend runs were done starting out at 5:45 on a cup of coffee, followed immediately by the swimming, with one more coffee in between.

So, 52 miles running, 1200m ascent plus 4km of swimming. The average for the last 3 months is 41 mpw and 4km of swimming, and will be past 30 mpw for the year by next week.

There was also a mad half hour dash by bike last night to get to the cafe before the cinema on time last night, and the slog up the hill by bike to get to the allotment this afternoon.

I have never run this far in one week, and I don't ache, whereas I did on much less mileage than this a few months ago, so I have to be pleased with the week. However, I am NOT RUNNING FAST ENOUGH. More sub 8:00 miles, please, and some sub 7:30 ones too while we are bringing this up.

My weight, meanwhile, hit a 15 year low on one day of 61.6 kg. I was 77 kg a year ago.

SO, my S-ishTG is to do at least 10 sub 7:30 miles in a week (a tough STG for me), my MTG is to do a HM distance in 1:40 and my LTG (ie by next year) is to do the Bob Graham Round. Soon, I am going to try going as far as I can in 8, 12, 16, 24 hours, probably on the SW coast path, to get an idea of how far off that goal I am at the moment.

I need to decide whether to carry on with the swimming, which I find very boring, or to do more running.
AJM - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Quiddity:

Sounds like an ace route Nick. Kneebars above head sounds way steep?

Might try and get down to Portland some weekend soon if you're starting to head down regularly again. Also, little way off yet, but its looking like I might be in London for a couple of days early July (8/9, a Mon/Tues) so might have time to grab lunch or pop to the wall or something?
AJM - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to leon:

Without wanting to give away too much in the way of beta, there's bombproof gear above a safe fall zone at the crux and its quite easy to go up and down to investigate the moves.

As I said to another friend, if you find it ok then Grand Alliance is maybe worth a look, I thought overall the pitch was more involved (delicate traverse, plus you're out of sight of your belayer on the crux), and the crux feels a bit spicier, but to me at least it didn't feel much harder. My friend found it a bigger step up though as he is shorter (I'm about 5'11" I think). Caveat of course is that your experience might be massively different, but that's how I found it.
biscuit - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

I am pining for the Lakes !

Great week. Grand Alliance was my first ( and only E4 ).

White noise is a beautiful pumpy route - next time.

You had a great week and your 'nonsensical ramblings' are pretty much what trad is all about i think.
biscuit - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Cheers Steve. I hear you. Climb, climb, climb it will be and a bit of running ;-)

No climbing this week due to Mrs Biscuit being in the UK but i am lining up the weekend for 2 days of climbing.

M - Flying back from UK. MASSIVE fry up before i left. Didn't eat for the rest of the day. Delicious !

T - Tried a fasting day to see what it was all about. Managed the 600 cal felt OK but i had a very weird sleep.

W - Expected to pig out to make up for yesterday but my appetite was just normal and i actually didn't want to eat rubbish stuff. My body seemed to crave healthy clean food.

Did a 20min jog before breakfast. Hard work.

Foot on campussing - finally sorted my board out. 3 sets of 90secs on 6min rest. Felt OK for a first session.

T - 50min run - roughly 10k with 4x1k @ 160bpm

Campus - Same again but holding each rung for 3 secs before moving on. Much more realistic burn.Had to inc rest to 7min. Failed on last set @ 1m25s

F - Playpark pull up/core session. Inspired by a post on UKB i got on the monkey bars and worked out a core/pull up routine. My core still hurts today so it must be doing something good.

Campus - pinches. Failed on all 3 sets from 1m27s to 1m12s.

S - 2 hr run. (20k ish ) Found a beautiful track i can do from my house that goes for about 20k to another village. Undulating/hilly trail run. Perfect for the race i have now decided to do for sure:


S - 1 hr run

So this week i need to get pumped on my board a lot and then crush this weekend with a few runs in between. I am going to pick a 7a to do ( maybe even a repeat ) to get me back into climbing. I need a success so i am going to stay off other people's hard projects.

This weeks targets:

Campus x4 - 3 normal, 1 pinches - complete 3 sets with 7min rest
Core/pull ups x1
Runs: 10k with 4x1k intervals @ 165bpm
Easy 5k jog
10k with middle 3k done at 160bpm
1hr run ( race pace so about 10k )
2hr run ( race pace so about 20k )
grubes - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: not a good week see nnfn ...
M rest
T rest
W rest
T rest
F cancel flight
Climb at beeston for
S climb west nab and holmfirth
S climb long ridge

Bad week
Next week will be better
biscuit - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Nightmare mate.

Sending virtual man hugs your way.

AJM - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Bad luck dude
Si dH - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks ER, anniversary weekend has been great thanks, although have eaten far too much and drunk too much as expected!

Only training was:
T: bouldering at climbing station. Good long session. Did about 20 easy probs, then about 10 v3-4 circuit, then about 10 v5-6 circuit.
W: fingerboard session
T: fingerboard session

JayK - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Oh man Grubes. Apologies to hear about that. Keep your head up. Positive Karma is due your way.
Banned User 77 - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to Eagle River) Cheers, very pleased.. been a good week training..
> 2 more hard weeks, then start 2 weeks of taper..
> m: 8 miles steady
> t: lunch: 6 miles steady trail run. pm: 9 miles, 9k at 6:30 pace, 3k at 5:20 pace.
> w: 8 miles steady
> t: lunch: 4 miles. pm: 12.5 miles hard 6:25 pace on trails
> f: 3 mile recovery run
> s: chojnik marathon, 27 miles, 2200m ascent, 1st. pleased how well I climbed, managed to drop 2nd on the last climb to the finish after 25 miles.
> s: 5.5 mile trail run

+ 4.1 mile run after some foam roller work in the gym this evening..

Jamming Dodger on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Only an 8 miler for me this evening. Better than stuffing myself with crisps though. Total for week - 29.5 miles.
Im still crap at climbing ;)
Nick Russell on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Some good reports coming in here, very jealous of AJM's trip and I didn't congratulate last IanRUK on the GB selection - well done!

My week went something like this

Monday - 8km run and core work

Tuesday - Climbing at Cheddar gorge. Had a go at "Shaking like a Leaf" and "Get that Man", feel like I was very close to flashing both of them, but didn't quite get them. It's raised the possibility of a 7a onsight not being too far off though, so I'll probably be doing a bit of upwards revision of my goals! Unfortunately slightly tweaked a finger on Get that Man, nothing bad though.

Wednesday - Rest

Thursday - 10km run. The shins are feeling better now (not 100%, but much better), so maybe I can get back to some semblance of training for the marathon in October.

Friday - core

Saturday - Ashton Court Park run (friendly 5km race, time 20:12) in the morning, afternoon trip to Cheddar gorge. I think I really benefited from the few days off climbing and made a speedy redpoint (2nd real attempt) of Get that Man. I'm not sure whether to count it as my first 7a+ (as it is on UKC) or just a higher-end 7a (as it is in the guide book). Either way, I'm happy with that, especially how relatively easy it felt! Didn't get on Shaking like a Leaf again, got to save something for next time.

Sunday - Shorn cliff: 3 routes, 9 guide-book stars, 5 Es and my first E4! According to the concensus on here it ("Lundy Calling") is soft for E4, but crucially I didn't know that before I set off up it, thus it still required the confidence to go for it.

So overall I'm very happy with this week. I've got back into the running and recorded a time in a distance I haven't raced before. I got another 7a redpoint (7a+ depending on who you ask) and learnt a bit more about my sport climbing limits. I led my first E4 trad route and, although apparently soft, the will to go for it was the important thing.

In other news, I've booked a week in Frankenjura mid-July with one of my old climbing buddies from the states! Any route recommendations (low 7s, I guess)? Advice on which areas to go to? (That place is huge!)

STG (the next month or so)
* Keep training for Frankenjura, 5 weeks is enough to give myself a bit of a boost at least.
* Try at least one more E4
* Onsight E3 6a (or E4 6a, I guess, but the former is more likely!)
* Continue a sensible running training program. Don't get injured.

MTG (By the end of the year)
* More 7a/+ sport climbs. Onsight 7a, redpoint 7b (7b+ if I find myself doing a lot of sport climbing). Paradise Lost at Cheddar.
* Feel comfortable on a wide range of E3 routes. This requires getting the 6a tech grade sussed and climbing more on rock types other than limestone!

LTG (Anything that I think will take longer than above timeframes, they will be subject to change more than the other categories!)
* Sport 8a. Getting out sport climbing a few more times has really made me more optimistic about this being possible. I prefer target routes than grades, but I can think about specifics later.
* Trad goals, not so sure. Still need more time to ponder this one...

mattrm - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

grubes - Sorry to hear about your cat and the cancelled trip. Just to confirm, I won't be along to Malham next weekend. Probably a good thing as I normally bring the bad weather.

IainRUK - Well done on getting into team GB.

biscuit - I'm pining for the Lakes as well. I'd be a happy man if I ever get to live up there.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs TICK
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain 11st
3 core/yoga, 1 climb, 1 run, eat well, fingerboard (2/3, yes, no, yes, no) - same goals for next week

Weight - 11st 10lbs (3lbs loss)

M - Yoga and stretching
T - Rest
W - Yoga 1h 30m
T - Climbing at Dinas Rock
F - Rest
S - 2h Go Ape
S - Rest

Good week all in. Did a couple of yoga sessions. Went sport climbing at Dinas Rock, did a f5 warm up and then got a good way up a 6b. Took a few falls off it. Got shutdown 4 bolts up on what I guess is the crux. However the fall was onto a ledge so struggled to commit. It seemed like it was a balancy rock over. Otherwise a nice route. Had hoped that my first 6b would be a bit easier, but there we go. Also could have probably done it, but run out of time, was 8:40 when I called it a day. Still to succeed, you've got to fail eh.

Did Go Ape with my sister on Saturday, it was a good laugh. She's scared of heights, hence her wanting to push herself with that. Spent a lot of time encouraging her around and taking photos. I'll take her climbing eventually. Got a bit of a work out from it, did everything that involved upper body with my feet off. Cranked out pull ups here and there.
NMN - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Thanks Eagle River.

> NMN: Have you had a chance to put the trad coaching into practice this week?

Not really, coaching session was cut short due to rain and I seem to be at a stage where I just need to get a good volume of routes done.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.

Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.

M: - 2.11m treadmill, 14.8%.
T: - Stanage Popular routes.
W: - 9.04m trail run, 937ft.
T: – 10.00m trail run, 1,247ft.
F: - Stanage Popular routes.
S: - 8.01m trail run, 814ft.
S: - 6.04m trail run, 689ft.
maria85 - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Should have been an amazing week, ended up being an ok week.
M: Reported last week, E1.
T: Bike commute
W: Kilnsey with Nomics. New Mystique - TR'd clean, fell (ok, jumped) once on lead, commited the next time knowing the fall was ok and got it. Gets 6b+ on here, 6b in the guidebook... felt easy for 6b+ but then I'd quite like the tick ;) Quick go on Nomic's project but could barely do a single move.
T: Run in the Dales. 26km, 700m ascent, 3hrs 45. Had really weird crampy/hurty calves the whole way which definitely slowed me down. Not sure why, dehydration possibly?
F: Nada except quick ride to & from bbq.
S: Trow Gill. O/S Off the Wagon (6a+). Attempted Alick (6b+) but fell off the crux. Got back on and tried to finish it, but for some reason my head had totally gone and I was scared... bailed and sulked for a while. TR'd Freak Out (6b+), fell off that too and had to give myself a serious talking to as I was getting freaked out (geddit?!) even on TR. Very odd day, falling just seemed to kill my psyche (it wasn't even a scary fall, I was right next to the bolt).
S: 3 hr mtb & a core session. Rode an amazing bit of fast flowy trail that I've ended up walking before - there's a committing steep section. Awesome - wooop & giggle inducing, much to the amusement of some passing walkers.

Not sure whether to be happy with the week or disappointed. Feel like it could/should have been a lot better, but there's some good bits in there too.

Need to run much more this week, marathon is 4 weeks today :-S After Thursday's run, do I think I can finish 42km? Yes, as long as it's not too hot. In under 6 hours? Possibly not. Will I be able to walk the next day? Very debatable!

Needkraken - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Thankyou, not really needing to be bullied into leading is still kinda new so I was pretty please with that!

This week hasn't been the best of weeks, life has been a bit of a kick in the teeth so I haven't been able to train as hard as I'd like to but it happens and I'll make up for it! I'm quite pleased that I still managed to get in 3 sessions tbh

STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead S by choice , get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do

M: band, lazy
T: after work Holmfirth session, really really warm but still worked relatively hard before getting demoralised by not being able to reach the holds or work out the short way round
W: life...
T: lazy, easily tricked into lots of wine
F: life...
S: all day band rehearsal but managed to get out to Holmfirth after, rock really warm but started at the other end. Got tired and warm quickly but at least I managed to do something
S: first visit to craig y longridge, really good fun even though I got spat off basically everything =p anti my style so good practice apart from the bit of heat stroke I developed

This week I need to try and manage to get out even though it's going to be hard to fit in 3 sessions. Also need to get in more trad now I've started buying gear =)
AJM - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Sounds like a good week Nick. Get that Man was my first 7a+ back when the old guidebook gave it 7a+ (the edition before the current one, which I think is why it's ended up on UKC at that grade). Great climbing. I seconded Lundy Calling many many years ago (a day of continual rain, but the leaf cover kept the crag dry - I remember failing on Moving Pictures due to a severe lack of commitment but getting up Lundy Calling without that much hassle (well, trying hard, but without falls). Good you've had the confidence to give it a look, half the battle really. If you're looking for 7a+ then Speedfreak whilst its still open and Its a kind of Magic for the summer are the best ones I've done in the gorge.

I've never been to Frankenjura, but have wanted to for ages, I've got the Frankenjura Extrem guidebook I bought for a trip which never happened. Seem to remember Fight Gravity is one of the names which always gets mentioned?
NorthernClamberer on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Thanks Eagle River!

STG: Get outside as much as possible (fat chance). Have the opportunity to lead as many VDiffs etc as I can find. OS 5+ outside without fear!
MTG: OS 6a. Get a solid load of trad under the belt. Lose two stone.
New MTG - second the Old Man of Hoy, perhaps before I leave here.... I'd quite like to kayak in, climb up and kayak home again. Ha ha ha.
LTG: OS 6b. Lead HVS. Second some totally awesome multipitch.

Well, this week turned out to be a lot better than I anticipated so I am a completely exhausted and desperate for my pizza girl tonight!

Monday: Work, work, work
Tuesday: Ditto
Wednesday: Invite to wall, initially said 'But I have to work, work, work' and then said F**K IT and went climbing. Climbing was total crap. I think I led the same thing 3 times cos I did it so badly. But not the point, I had a great time and actually needed a break from the work and the stress.
Thursday: Nothing
Friday: Had been talking about going out all day but as girl I was going to go with not yet that confident outside, neither party wanted to go on our own. Thought, 'oh well' and went to Tesco to buy my tea. Get a text saying 'we're going climbing in 5 minutes if you want to come'. Stuff tattie scone in gob and go.

2 fist ascents, Mary's Crack and Sniffin' Crack. Only about a diff and a ?HD but I don't care!

The lads put up about 3 other things in the HVS/E1 range, the thing I backed off last week was declared VS 4c so I felt OK about asking for a top rope!

Left about 9.30pm only cos one person had to go to work at 10pm, it was still broad daylight!

Saturday Cragging friend disappointed to see there had been cragging without her so asked if anyone was going out. I had procrastination to do!

Seconded her up new route Snapdragon (diff with harder bit at bottom)
Got fed up of that bit of rock and the abseil faff, went over by and I onsighted something. I shat myself at one point, thought, I'll put in a solid nut and I can lower off but then told myself to man the f*** up and climbed it fine. Totally wired afterwards though! My nuts caused some problems for my second so the placements weren't bad! Decided to give my self a break and thought that Vdiff onsight is not bad for 9th ever trad lead ever.
Seconded a severe. Went home.

Sunday Club session.
Led a new ?HD 'Innuendo' cos there was a lot of it about today!
Seconded best friend Linda up her first ever trad route. Yeay Linda!
Led Colin's chimney myself. Easy but really nice. Meant to do double rope but forgot!
Seconded Linda up Camcity
Lead up something that had been done but I took an easier line to the left at the top. A bit run out at the top to say the least!

Got pretty cold earlier on queing for abseil rope (draw back of sea cliffs I suppose) but sun came out in the end and we were out for about 7 hours in total and Linda, Iain and Keith all did their first leads so you can't complain!

So between Friday and Sunday I did my 7th to 12th ever trad leads, including 3 (very easy) first ascents! Not a bad week all in all!

And now, really, really, really looking forward to the grit adventure next weekend! Whoop!

NorthernClamberer on 09 Jun 2013
JBO on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Thanks ER,

Gogarth was great, managed to be really chilled and terrifying at the same time! Was my first proper scary sea cliff climbing experience (Mother Carey's is nothing compared to Yellow Wall!) so I had to lower my standards a bit but still managed to have a good week, and tick my first E4s in a long while - inspired by Andy to get my act together!

Mon - went for a good run, managed to beat last weeks time on the same run by five minutes - I think I was so bad it would be impossible not to improve. Incredible to read IainRUK's running times, I can't match his 20 mile pace over a single mile!
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering session at home, set new circuit, I genuinely think it's like 7c/+, I've been trying it over and over again but I never have enough in the tank for the last moves, which aren't even that hard. Really good for P.E though.
Thurs - rest
Fri - first day at Gogarth, arrived at half one. Warmed up on Upper Tier on Fifth Avenue, E1 5c (my arse). Started out with an unprotected chimney for 10m and then the rest was swimming up a vertical wall of grass! Next I did Strike, E3/4 depending on the guide. Pretty happy with it, but there's only really one 6a move and it's very well protected so E3 is probably fairer, though it did get me pretty pumped! I wanted to experience Main Cliff so at 5.30 we set off up a three pitch E4 called Syringe. I led both 6a pitches, the first had a really hard and well protected crux followed by this horrendous loose groove with no horizontal holds or gear to be found for a long way, really greasy and sweaty. Starting to feel Gogarthy! Second pitch had another hard crux but would probably only be E3 6a on it's own because the rest was easy. Dad led the top pitch, we got back at 9.
Sat - It's Dad's Rucksack Club meet so he'd have 50 confused people to deal with in the cafe at 10 o'clock so we had a crazy plan to do The Moon on Yellow Wall before breakfast. We woke up at 6 a.m, hit the crag at 7, and topped out at 9. I led the main pitch, and all I can say is that I do not climb at my slickest before 7.30... At a more reasonable hour, I spent the day climbing with my older sister for her first sea cliff experience, which was quite exciting as it was the first time I'd ever been the more experienced one in the team. We did Lighthouse Arete and Rap, so it was a really nice day, relaxed and fun for once! Had a barbecue on the beach which dragged on quite late so a few of us bivvied on the beach.
Sun - woke up at 6 a.m (again) when the sun came up. Hung around the beach for a few hours then cafe for brekky, then back down to Yellow Wall to try The Cow. At E5 it's basically The Moon's big bro, I saw it on Saturday and thought it looked doable. Got down today and despite the hot sun the crag was in the shade and when I got to the crack it was all slimy on the inside. I didn't want to give it away due to poor conditions so I down-climbed - still got the onsight to go for! To get out we did Scavenger, a good E2, then we wondered over to Easter Island Gully and did an E3 6a called Wonderwall, which was the best route we'd done that weekend! Really long, well protected crack climbing with a sting in the tail right at the top. And it was shady, big bonus!

So yeah it was a decent weekend, two E4s, two E3s, and an E1, E2 and two VSs. Pretty pleased with the E4 on Main Cliff because it's a scary place, and it was my first time, so I feel like I've got to grips with the place, hopefully come back and do some of the big E5s, when it's not so hot! I'm very sunburnt. Also very tired, because I only got about five hours sleep each night, due to early starts and sleeping on beaches!

Big comp in Edinburgh next weekend, very psyched! Also pretty nervous but in a completely different way to this weekend, for totally different reasons...

Cheers, Jake
maria85 - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to NorthernClamberer:
That rock looks amazing!
JBO on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK: Didn't congratulate you on last weeks thread but well done for making the GB Team!
Banned User 77 - on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton: Cheers we were told a while back but told to keep it quiet., looks some week. Never climbed at Gogarth despite living in Wales..
NorthernClamberer on 09 Jun 2013
In reply to maria85: It's not bad. Pretty chossy and shitty at the top but harder towards the base and better at the place we went on Saturday which is just down the coast. Miles of sandstone cliffs here, many, many still unclimbed!
AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:

That the youth comps up at Ratho Jake? One of my climbing partners' daughters is up there for that too. Best of luck.
AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Oh, and the Cow looks mental! Cool positions on that wall though - did you enjoy the Moon?

Shrike had been on my list as a potential first E4 attempt but never got round to it because we ended up at Holyhead instead. Need to try and get on a Main Cliff biggie by the end of the summer - Rat Race or Big Groove or something perhaps.
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: re ianRUk... flipping ace!!!
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Ali... responded to you on last week's fitclub post just now... we were at malham over the weekend but on sunday afternoon/evening.. how did you get on?
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: yes i had a rest day thank you very much...

s-malham and turbo in garage
m- REST DAY and picnic after work (chicken, chicken and more chicken by the river)
t-lunch time int training on bike in gym, pm weights and core (started to pop a few reps of close grip pull ups in at the end of each set of wide grip chin ups to get the biceps working more) i/m finding mescalito bicepy
w-lunch time int training on bike in gym. pm (after being stuck in car forever finally got to malham... felt stressed with getting there quute late... got straight on mescalito and just top roped it.. for teh first time i managed to climb through the crux from the bottom (did it about three times)
t-50 mile road ride with lots of climbing, hours of gardening in the pm.. as in digging, thugging about earth ..felt fed up that my arms weren't getting enough rest.. but couldn't get out of it as it needed to be done!
f- a.m turbo in garage, p.m malham.. after warm up led mescalito up to 5th bolt- so bottom intense section, over two out of three of the bulges with two falls.. very very close to leading through the crux but got put off by the tiniest of things... a fly on the foot hold and not quite enough slack!!!(before the ledge rest )played on top section .. nowhere near wired but chipping away at it.. found a good clipping position on a side pull instead of a flat crimp for lower off i think
s- a.m almost puked on a two hour road ride due to not letting breakfast settle before geting out.. lots of hills.. tummy settled for last few miles
p.m. gym.. weights.. usual pull ups with added bicep bits and bats, core. BBQ- MEAT
s (yesterday) malham... got there too early because the malham wetahre station said it was well cloudy.. but it wasn't!!! so wasted my time for the first couple of hours l;eading and falling off mescalito on the crux bit and the bulge above until it went into shade. almost linked from botton to 6th bolt (second bulge).. was so close to catching the hold i needed.. biceps didn't feel as pumped as they have .. but still hard work

right arm keeps going numb whilst i'm riding my bike..and htink it might've been doing it a bit on the climb yesterday.. i think it's that carpal tunnel thing again.. but up until yesterday it isn't bothering me whilst climbing .. last summer i woke up in the middle of the night with it for about a month and couldn't butter my toast or wipe my bum ... so at least it's not doing that this season.

pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Grubes re yorkshire dales w'end ... will be at malham at some point i expect .. but will make it up as i go along as it depends on how much i get there before then and need to factor in malham rest days. where are people staying?
heelhookofglory - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:


No problem, I'll keep them in my weekly post just in case anyone finds them useful. Always open to questions if anyone wants more info.

A much better week this week thank you. A good mix of tying up work projects, biking and bouldering. Still no trad but I now have a good list of potential partners so this should improve.

Consolidate seconding experience (trad) including some mountain multi-pitch.
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!).
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding.

If anyone is interested in how I beat, and still working with, my fear of heights and falling, I have written quite a lot about it on my blog. This post pretty much sums it up: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/fear-of-heights-conquered/ and this one adds to it: http://www.getsomealtitude.com/my-pledge/

This Week:
M: Rest
T: 14km mountain bike ride (singlespeed ridged), loads of fun
W: Churnet bouldering, felt very greasy but nice to be in the sun
T: Planned a Stanage bouldering trip but work and sun changed plans. Last minute Churnet bouldering. Enjoyed a tussle with an old VS crack line. Not finished with this!
F: Churnet bouldering, easy circuit with some good height / top-outs
S: 13km mountain bike ride, knocked 2 minutes off my best Dimmingsdale hill climb Strava segment and it was on my singlespeed! Chuffed to bits with that
S: Rest day and family BBQ, lovely end to a good week

This week I want to knock some more time of my hill climb, mainly for shits and giggles but also to gain top place on the Strava KOM! I'm currently in second place and need to shave some more time off my PB. That KOM will be mine!
John2 - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Shrike's E2 - in fact it used to be given E1.
Nomics4sale - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

IainRUK: woo Mr GB! That's soo good!
AJM: nice one getting another E4 done!
Exile: Centipede Direct, well impressed with this one. E2 6a, 5c, sounds hard for the grade. Is the 6a well protected? I might have a go if so.
Joughton: Hate to say it but Scavenger is HVS, unless ALOT of holds have come off. maybe you did a different E2?

STG (Summer 2013): 7b at Malham or Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s.
MTG (Autumn 2013): Something good in Spain, maybe 7a flash or 7b RP.
LTG (2014): lots of E2s, maybe look at E3 and RP 7b+.

Mon: 4.3 mile flat local trail run
Tues: Kilnsey. Failed to RP WYSIWYG.
Weds: Kilnsey with Maria85. Failed to RP WYSIWYG
Thurs: Three Shires race reccy, 11.5 miles, 1,340m ascent.
Fri: nowt
Sat am: 7.5 mile run, 330m ascent. Pendle Hill.
Sat pm: 6.5 mile walk
Sun: Pavey Ark, Lead onsight Arcturus E1 5b and 2nd Astra E2 5c.

Gutted and totally ashamed of myself for failing to RP WYSIWYG. Stooopid.

Ace day at Pavey tho.

Sankey - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Good work everyone who is crushing the sport/trad/running stuff currently!

Got out on the sport again, ticked a 6c+ that I had been finding really hard (slighly heart in mouth RP, inadvertantly cutting loose at the crux, while spanned between two slide pulls, I guess it shows the extra commitment leading can dredge up). Also spent a day on a 7a, which pretty much went in two sections, need to find a way to relax on some big holds to allow the link.

W: Bouldering circuits @ Edge Combinations of laps up to 6b+/6c, working a 7a+
T: Cycle to the cinema (16 miles, 1500 feet ascent)
S: Trow: Barguest Direct to one rest
S: RP Highway 395 @ Kilnsey

STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (2)

MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight

LTG: 7b I guess, why not!
Nomics4sale - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Hey, gutted for you on both counts. Riglos will happen another time I'm sure.
JayK - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

W-Indoor bouldering. 2hour endurance session. Died a death at the end.
F-5-a-side football.
S-Anstey's. Draws in Tuppence. Worked all the moves except one in the middle. Which turns out is hideously beta dependent. Had a second go on a top-rope. So psyched for it. Everything was there. Just need to put in a lot of effort to get fit enough for it. Followed this by some poor attempts on Avenged. I blame it on the hay-fever being bad!
S-Anstey's. Hay faver was really bad. Had a go on Avenged (had left draws in) and felt awful so I took them out after having a moan about how unfit and tired I felt. Had an ice-cream and an early drive home.

No ticks for the weekend but I had a few plays on Tuppence and a couple of failed attempts on Avenged (which I frustrating feel should have been sent on my first attempt! Good job it's worth doing over and over!)

Summer Goals (all realistic)
The Thumb, Elite, Mussel Beach and work on an 8b closer to home in good conditions.
Stay strong and boulder 7C+

2013 goals
Link Tuppence in 2 halves
Boulder at least 5 7C+'s (to make sure I'm staying strong) - baring in mind I haven't done any this year.
Kalymnos in Oct/Rodellar at Xmas?
Ally Smith on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Sorry to hear about the cat troubles. My two are definitely part of the family too.

This coming week will be very hectic, so unlikely to be much of a showing next week. Wknd Yorks lime is a possibility if Cornwall plans don't come to fruition.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Spring 2013) - 8b
SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.
Stolen at Kilnsey - see below.

STG - minor update
- Finger re-hab; getting there
- Shoulder/elbow physio; tackling the cause of my elbow pains, not the symptoms
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) was down to 74.5kg after a long day on Saturday (dehydration?) but back up to 75.3kg and and 6.6% this morning after LOTS of BBQ food.

The week just gone:

M - Rest
T - Kilnsey after work. Fairly epic drive, 6b+, 7a, 7b warm-ups, then dog of Stolen. Home at 12:30pm.
W - Rest - battered from long day before.
T - Cave (dropped LF sans pocket at pocket twice) then Pigeons, which was skanky. Gave up on Caffs heelhook beta and went back to original method on crux of SUPext. Did SUP (7c+) despite mank and got 1 move into ext.
F - Rest.
S - Kilnsey; Stolen again. Got new beta shown to me for crux clip and found toe hook instead of heel for upper crux. First time to very top. Couple of RP efforts went badly due to poor memory.
Then Malham for right wing trad. HVSx2 and Carnage - first pitch is a bit of a frightener!
S - Felt sore, but went to Harmers wood and did a bunch of vert bouldering and broke in new boots. Sore toes today. Repeated Babyblock (7A+) after someone had broken hold previously. Then lots of BBQ meat, fatty fatty!
Banned User 77 - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:
> (In reply to Eagle River) re ianRUk... flipping ace!!!

Thanks, really pleased, daunting now as the team is packed full of top runners.. but I think the course suits me..

biscuit - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK:
> (In reply to pork pie girl)
> [...]
> Thanks, really pleased, daunting now as the team is packed full of top runners.. but I think the course suits me..

It'd be a bit strange if it was full of crap runners :-p

It's this kind of thing that makes you step up to the mark and improve. I am sure you will do yourself proud and learn lots as well in the process.

Do you get to keep the shirt ?
Banned User 77 - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to biscuit: Aye.. its also that 'training works'.. I'd hit a plateau but came through that by higher mileage, harder sessions.. and you get the feedback.. and race wins, selections all help motivation wise.

Aye.. that vest is going on the wall..
Banned User 77 - on 10 Jun 2013
Ali - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton: E3 before breakfast? Bloomin' good going! Sounds like an awesome weekend - though I think you may have put me off Gogarth a wee bit!
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to IainRUK: loving this... just shows how a shed load of hard work ..both mentally and physically pays off. keep focussed and keep plugging away and pushing
Exile - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Centipede Direct is super well protected - peg at each crux. On the first pitch you finish the hard climbing with the peg, (and good small wire above it,) at your knee, on the top pitch crux you move above it a bit but not too far.

Both sections are good climbing but I found it hard to read - too much red pointing so far this year! I'd go for it if I were you. If you want some general beta about rack or some specific beta re cruxes, (all three of us found particularly the top crux a bit confusing,) give me a shout.
Ali - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: Thanks ER - awesome weekend in Yorkshire. Love Yorkshire - wish it wasn't so far away though...

M - ran to wall, warm up, fingerboard session, tried a couple of other problems, 2x6a circuit then ran back to station to go home. Basically a desperate attempt to fit as much as I could into a short space of time, but it worked.
T - Found out I am 2kg lighter than this time last year - prob a result of more running and less eating/drinking. Currently at 56kg so see if I can stay there! BMF in evening - shoulder hurting again so didn't do a few of the more aggravating exercises but felt hard workout.
W - 90's fitness rave - fluorescent facepaint and glow sticks - oh yes.... Basically an hour's aerobics session - definitely worked more than I thought I would!
T - nothing
F - nothing - long drive up to Malham!
S - Malham - will leave CY to report on her total awesomeness - sunny but wanted to make sure I could get on Space Race before anyone else, so went up in sun (with clipstick!) to put the clips in. Holds felt hideous and desperate. Waited for the shade to come round and had a warm up go, reminding myself of the moves. Rest then decided to have a decent burn on top rope to see if I could link some sections. Completely surprised myself by doing The Bad Thing. Felt scared as meant I had no excuse for not getting on lead next go and not so happy with the potential falls. Dealt with this by ignoring ER's and PPG's excellent advice on practicing falls and deciding not to fall - managed to tick it first redpoint. First 7b+ - really chuffed Two days working moves out (couple of gos each day) plus one to send.
S - Decided to head to Troller's Gill - lovely crag. Got on Angel Delight which felt tough for 7a. Took a couple of go's to work out the moves (first time I missed a very obvious and crucial hold on the crux) then had a go and managed to link in two but felt totally and utterly boxed. One to go back and tick when have more beans!

At some point will find and re-post goals for this year to see how doing, but pretty pleased to have advanced in grade - did my first 7b years ago, before a break in climbing, so nice to know I've improved.

PPG - sorry we missed you! Felt we needed a diff venue on Sunday have been on the send train at Malham on the Sat
Pagan - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali:

> S - Decided to head to Troller's Gill - lovely crag. Got on Angel Delight which felt tough for 7a.

That would probably be because it's 7a+.
Nick Russell on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Gogarth sounds amazing - I'll have to get out there some time! Sounds like you had a good time, and some solid leads.

I remember the first time I went out as the more experienced of the pair - it didn't go quite as smoothly as yours with both of us taking big lead falls on a mountain crag... We got to the top though (with some aid but no injuries).

Good luck in the comp!
Nick Russell on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM:

Yeah, Get that Man is a great route, well worth the stars. (Grade-wise I think 7a+ would be fair if you skip the rest on the right before the steep section. I didn't). Lundy Calling was an interesting one: I'd probably have found it a good deal easier if somebody had told me it was an E3, but that psychological aspect of it is part of the fun!

Thanks for the suggestions at Cheddar, I'll check them out. And I've also heard of Fight Gravity at Frankenjura, not sure where though. Sounds like it's worth checking out!

It sounds like you had a good week in the Lakes, and covered a lot of impressive ground. I hope I get a chance to go there this summer.
Sankey - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Nick Russell: Have been to F'jura a couple of times, basing yourself somewhere central is a good plan, have stayed in Pottenstein, and Camping Eichler before. As you say is a bewildering choice so probably best to relax a bit on the usual planning and embrace the randomness. In general there is quite a difference in feel betwewen some of the newly developed venues and the old ones, in terms of bolt spacing, polish etc. so would recommend having a look at some venues flagged as being recent developments as well as older classics. Most striking thing is the crags are invisible, even from the car parks! I think a first time visitor may find it all a bit quirky if used to normal hot rock venues, but personally think it is great venue, when seen as a whole with the stunning contryside, cakes and beer! Specifically we quite liked Soranger Wand, short routes, stays dry in the rain, we climbed in a few inches of snow and sub zero temps there last autumn, very atmospheric. And a trip to Weissenstein is probably obligatory, although is polished as hell and could be baking hot. Has classics at 7a.
Si dH - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Hi all,
Just wondering who if anyone is actually going to Malham this weekend? I was planning on going but only if there's a reasonable group of us, otherwise I'd probably stay with friends in thepeak and sleep at home rather than travel up.
I'm keen for trad (ideally Midnight Cowboy, Sundance Wall on the Terrace and Mulatto Wall, maybe Slender Loris on the Right Wing) and then a play on Space Race if theres time...
If I go I will drive up from Derby early Saturday morning and camp over Saturday night.
pork pie girl - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali: flipping awesome girl!!! so you didn't get to do any of the falls on space race!! lucky thing!

re. moving to troller's on sunday.. i'd have done the same..best to quit whilst you're ahead :O
leon on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
STG: No top roping unless I cannot (because I keep falling) bolt to bolt.
MTG: 15 epoints in june(7 to date)
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(16 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(0)
Focus: Strength(3/3)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. Repertoire of moves. FoF, using core to reduce strain on fingers (maybe), not search for the best sequence when redpointing.

Mon: Bouldering @ Rubicon
Tue: Nothing -tired.
Wed: ARC(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3) * 2.
Thu: Core. Felt way too tired to do anything else.
Fri: Chee Tor(1 epoint) then anniversary dinner.
Sat: ARC(30 mins). Repeaters. Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights) -half session.
Sun: ARC(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Smalldale(max 6c).

A poor week for training, mainly due to being either too tired or too hot. Bad job @ bouldering on Monday. Friday was interesting, found Meditation quite tricky to read & then fell off Two Sunspots by reading the route poorly (climbed myself into a dead end). I've been trying to think about what I could have done differently, I guess taken more time & considered my options.

Had a bonus trip on Sunday to Smalldale, was aiming for easy & volume. Got my first 6c on-sight (I thought I was on a 6a+).

Confidence is high at the moment. Need to make the most of it.
Curious Yellow - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Iain R - Wow

Goals Update
Finish Something Stupid and Road Rage - 1 down, 1 to go!
Complete up to top level of 7c+ pyramid (2x 7b, 2x 7b+, 1x 7c) - 1x 7b done

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Good boulder. Lots of V3/4.
Wedns - Castle. Another decent boulder. Spent the end of the session in the catacombs. Not very good at climbing upside down. A bit sloth-like. Needs work.
Thurs - Castle. Short session. Nothing of note.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Malham. Finally got Something Stupid done! Belayed Ali on Space Race - congrats again
Sun - Trollers. Had a go at Angel Delight, which we thought was 7a but which I am quite prepared to believe is 7a+! In 2 sections, ran out of beans for a RP. Nice crag, nice route.

JBO on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Curious Yellow and Ali: Well done to both you guys! Good to see some long term projects come together, great effort, I'm guessing some team psyche had a part to play!
JBO on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to John2: He means Strike, not Shrike. Strike is an E3/4 on the Upper Tier at Gogarth.
JBO on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to AJM: Yeah that's the one, it's a pretty big event but it's fairly relaxed for a national... which age category is she in, I might know her?

The Cow is absolutely mental! From below it looks like a solid jamming crack in a groove - should be fine? Only it's way steeper than it looks, and the jams are flared! The rock was a bit dirty as well, the whole route had a soapy texture to it... so yeah I'm glad I bailed, not sure when I'll feel strong enough to go back though! I thought the Moon was brilliant though, loved that teetering traverse towards the belay with nothing below your feet, it certainly woke me up a bit! You'd piss Strike being pretty fit from sport climbing, but yeah Big Groove looks fantastic, a few of our mates did it and had a great day.

AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to John2:

I appreciate that Shrike is what I typed, but from the context it should have been clear I was talking about the E3/4 Strike that Joughton did at Gogarth rather than the E1/2 Shrike on Cloggy that wasn't mentioned anywhere in his post.
JBO on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> Joughton: Hate to say it but Scavenger is HVS, unless ALOT of holds have come off. maybe you did a different E2?

You're right it is! That's on Main Cliff isn't it? I meant to write Savage, which what we did to get out of Yellow Wall, I'm getting my Gogarth classics mixed up!
AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:


I think Joughton may mean the Savage, as a possible E2 escape from Yellow Wall - be quite a long swim from yellow wall round to main cliff to use scavenger as an escape route!
AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali and Curious Yellow:

Very well done to you both!

Be lovely to see you again soon. Any plans for future weekends (busy this coming one but might have 22/23 free)? Also as I said to Nick might be in London early July otherwise.
AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Joughton:
> Yeah that's the one, it's a pretty big event but it's fairly relaxed for a national... which age category is she in, I might know her?

I seem to recall 13/14 so probably a category or two below you...

> The Cow is absolutely mental! From below it looks like a solid jamming crack in a groove - should be fine? Only it's way steeper than it looks, and the jams are flared! The rock was a bit dirty as well, the whole route had a soapy texture to it... so yeah I'm glad I bailed, not sure when I'll feel strong enough to go back though! I thought the Moon was brilliant though, loved that teetering traverse towards the belay with nothing below your feet, it certainly woke me up a bit!

Exposed isn't it. I tried it first all bunched up because I didn't want to let me feet down into the exposure
AJM - on 10 Jun 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

I remember arguing about whether the rest out right was too far out right many years ago. I think in hindsight the rest you can get further left isn't that much worse really, it gets a bit slabby there anyway. It took me a lot longer than SLaL at a very similar time, but I've not done it for ages so have no particularly useful view on the grade, I might just have been being incompetent.

LC - Have to get back on it soon really, was going to try a few months back but was too knackered the last day I was up at Shorncliff.

Yeah it was really good to be out pushing hard each day on trad, don't usually get that opportunity/atmosphere as often.
pork pie girl - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Curious Yellow: congratulations CY!!
grubes - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Si dH:
I am keen for malham and would not mind another run at something stupid or maybe get on yosemite wall. So I think I will be up there saturday but not sure how many peole are coming for the meet.
I think it will only be in the insitu yorkshire lime climbers (PPG, Nomics and ER).

Sunday I think I am heading for some grit bouldering/soloing at caley/almscliff or hiding from rain at the depot
Eagle River - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

I can't do Saturday but was hoping to be at Kilnsey on Sunday which might be ambitious given the forecast so could be at Malham instead. Happy to belay and supply beta where appropriate!
grubes - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
> (In reply to grubes)
> I can't do Saturday but was hoping to be at Kilnsey on Sunday which might be ambitious given the forecast so could be at Malham instead. Happy to belay and supply beta where appropriate! <warning my beta for consenting adults may vary on every attempt>

Fixed it for you

pork pie girl - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: ha ha!!! you been confusing folk with your beta ER?

think we're at malham on thurs and sat.. (poss fri)

might bob along on sunday if there are odd numbers ..but won't know til last min
biscuit - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Ali and CY:

Big well dones to you both.

Lots of people having a great start to the season.
Eagle River - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

My beta is consistent, it's people's attention to it that varies.
Nomics4sale - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes:

Hi, I'm up for Kilnsey on Sunday but probably not Saturday as I'll be there on Friday too. Wet weather alternative of malham is very much 2nd choice for me but I will if I have to.

Who's coming? Anyone up for Klinsey on Sunday? Grubes can you swap your days/venues around and get to kilnsey on sunday?
Nomics4sale - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to Curious Yellow and Ali: superb effort both of you on your super quick RPs. Impressive stuff!
maria85 - on 11 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Might come along on Sat depending on where you're all headed. Can't make Sunday.
useful on 12 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:
Hi ER, thanks for doing the thread, apologies for the very delayed response! Cromlech was amazing, it was lovely to soak up the atmosphere and chat to people (sorry I missed you, Grubes!).

This week has indeed been more mileage.
M 3/6 Run and traversing (in trainers) over Halkyn Mountain, 90 mins. I must take my climbing shoes next time! I managed to find a more challenging traverse, though. Maybe I should put some routes onto UKC?!
Tu 4/6 Maeshafn, 6 routes on a lovely warm evening: led Puppy Power VS 4b, this time without problems. Seconded Rambler HS 4a, led Sling HS 4a, Seconded Shattered Crack HS 4a, The Arete VS 5a (although we reckon the 4m run out off the ground could be bolder than that) And took a look at The Bulger HVS 5b on Top rope, looking for placements and holds.
W 5/6 Nowt
Th 6/6 Afternoon: A works celebration, White-water rafting down the Dee from Berwyn to Llangollen. Not that white water, but good fun/exercise
F 7/6 Nowt, 79.8kg 16.7% (evening reading: better hydrated!)
Sa 8/6 6 mile walk/geocache with daughter
Su 9/6 Took 7yo daughter to Sea Walls, Avon Gorge, Bristol because she'd seen my shiny new rack and wanted to place some gear. And to her credit, she only needs showing once. I had to stop her from going straight up: there's not many good placements at the 1m level! She's coming on fast though... She just needs to learn how to direct-belay daddy

So that's it: not much grade-pushing climbing last week, but rock movement is getting better and more confident. Ditto for this following week, but I think I'll have to definitely try an HVS/E1 5b either this week or next!
grubes - on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River: okay all here is an open invite

22nd june I am doin what has (sadly) been dubbed the chew valley rim job.
The plan is to do a route at every crag on the upper rim of the chew valley.
my route will start at the dovestones car park
walk up to wimberry
across to upper wilderness,
around to robs rocks
along the top to charnel stones
around the rim to dovestones edge
over the moor to ravenstones
down then back up the valley to standing stones
Down the road to upperwood quarry
Along the top of the moors to Alderman
then down the hill and a strole along the resovoir back to dovestone car park.

I mapped it out last year and it is roughly 9.2 miles walk.

let me know if anyone fancies the challenge I can e-mail you details
useful on 13 Jun 2013
In reply to grubes: Nasty title! Unfortunately I'll be in Czech for my brother's wedding ;-)
Keendan - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Thanks mate. London Wall definitely means the most to me out of all the climbs I've done. I must have spent hours looking at UKC photos and collecting beta. My heart was racing as we got to the crag I was so scared of blowing it! Such a relief to put it behind me now.

I think I'll take a break from fit club, this being my last update. Mostly because this summer looks to be much more climbing than training. I don't need peer motivation to go climbing, and trips away make it harder to post every week.

I'll still follow the thread with interest and contribute to the pool of psyche

So this week was mega:

Pembroke with a friend, living in a tiny Ford KA, sleeping in laybys
I went with the vague intention to "consolidate E5" but I don't know most of the routes so didn't have a particular plan.

The weather was pretty bad but we managed to get at least a couple of routes in 6 out of 7 days.

Here's the summary:
77 E points (between two of us) over 7 days
5 E5 and 2 E4 onsights for me
Best routes include Pleasure Dome, Pan and Minotaur

I feel quite consistent at E5 6a now, but I've failed on a couple of E5 6bs, so I think that is my current limit. It's tempting to try an E6 or two, but E5s still feel sketchy and close, so I think I need a bit more experience until I find them easier.

Pembroke is absolutely amazing. Steep, safe, long routes all over the place!

This summer:
E6 First Go
8a RP
Si dH - on 16 Jun 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Sounds amazing Dan, nce one. Impressed you managed to dothat while sleeping in a Ford Ka....

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