UKC

Not seen one of these before so how about a list of starred E1's that are a bit of a bugger for the short. The 'starter for 10' was from another thread:

Humdinger
Shortcomings
The Arete (Aldery)
Mississippi Variant Direct
Dark Continent
Eye of Faith (E1 start)
Nuke the Midges

These were only in the peak but any would do. I'd add the following (mainly Eastern Edges that I know better... but feel free to add more, subtract, comment etc as I'm not short and I've not even done a good few but know them by reputation):

Acheron
Autumn Day
Babbercome Lee
Blue Velvet
Central Buttress Direct
Death and Night and Blood
Despot
Double Overhang
Exit Stage Left
Eye of Japetus
Goodbye Toulouse
Gullibles Travels
Ice Boat
Kayak
Kelly's Direct
Living at the Speed
Lotto
Morrison's Redoubt
Nightmare Slab
Punklet
Rhythmic Itch
Slowhand
Smoke ont' Water
Steamin'
Stretch Marks
Tsetse Fly
War Wound

In reply to Offwidth:

The partner thread:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=558193&v=1#x7437746

In reply to Offwidth:

Some of those are just real bastards anyway:

Nighmare Slab, Ice Boat, Smoke ont'watter and Blue Velvet are just sandbags.

Death, Night and Blood is about 4c for those of average height, I think you need to be short to make it E1 5b.

In reply to Offwidth:

Smoke on't Watter isn't reachy, it's fingery.

In reply to Offwidth:

I'm glad you've got Living at the Speed though. I always feel a real wuss on that one move and it's completely escapable but if you come off I think you'd get very close to the ground!

In reply to Offwidth: I found Moyer's Buttress at Gardoms pretty reachy on the crux. Also only HVS 5b but I found Whillan's Pendulum and Black Magic absolutely nails! Most 5c moves I've done have felt a lot easier.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

On the bastards point thats true but that's the grade they are given and they are harder if you are short.

I think you mean above average height/reach for a man for DaNaB: I'm just above average reach and it felt easy E1 5b for me but still a little on the stretch.

In reply to Offwidth:

Come on shorties, what about routes outside the peak?

In reply to Offwidth: I did sea Panther recently and even though it only had one hard move on it it would definatley be easier for the taller climber.

In reply to Offwidth:

I agree with Jon on Death and Night and Blood. The E1 grade is for normal people who can't just reach up, but do a smeary layback move. And it's fair at E1 for that, so no reason for shorties to avoid it. If you can just reach then it's surely HVS.

Re: Kayak. Similar thoughts. I'd say that the "normal" grade is E2 and for people who can't reach. It might be E1 for lanky cheats.

In reply to Offwidth:

Steelfingers - Tremadog

In reply to Offwidth:

I think it's much less of an issue away from gritstone (and possibly slate). There's almost always an alternative way of doing a big reach using other holds. I can only recall being completely stopped a couple of times purely because of reach (plenty of times for other reasons though!).

Pitch 2 Great Central Route on Dow has a ridiculously height-dependent bit (and not the first move where they used to use a shoulder, the bit just after that) - but that's only HVS allegedly. Similarly Belly Button Slab in Runestone Quarry (also only HVS and piss easy apart from one blank jump for a jug).

In reply to Offwidth:

I found Enigma at Brimham fairly hard, I seemed to have to do about 5 more moves to get to the big pocket than my partner had done. Also struggled with the direct start to Sodom at Running Hill Pits and ended up having to start up the adjacent crack.

Can't think of any other really reachy E1s I've tried, though I'd like to throw in an honourary mention for the crux of Spinnaker at Eavestone, which is 4a if you can reach the break and about 5c if not!

In reply to climbingpixie: haha, had a tussle with thst on saturday! unlike you I wimped out and bailed.

In reply to pebbles:

I was seconding it, I think I'd have bailed if I'd been leading!

In reply to climbingpixie: I handed the lead to my mate, it still felt desparate on second. it was just up above taunting me

In reply to Offwidth: I can't remember if it's Pincushion or Silly Arete ,but one of them is certainly not good news for shorties.

In reply to Al Evans:

And neither E1, Al! In similar vein, Sardine (F7b/7b+) ain't good news either, for the vertically challenged (like me).

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Maybe as there isn't enough interest in E1's other grades might be a useful change. We get posts on individual lines or a small collection of routes from time to time but I was trying to collect a large number together in a single thread as a semi-resource for short climbers.

In reply to Offwidth:

The start of the Valve at the Roaches. Can't even toprope it.

In reply to Offwidth:

You've come up with a great resource. There must be so many stopper moves on grit for the really short, typically going for breaks. For instance, going for the top of Pebble Mill is quite frightening if you're short. (Won't be doing that again!)

On Portland, loads of stuff succumbs to a long reach but, at least, if you don't have one, intermediates will usually work. With bolting, I always tried to make stuff clippable by say, a 5' 2" person with zero ape index.

Mick

In reply to Offwidth:

Sirplumb at cheedale, the first move off the ledge on the 2nd pitch is properly tough if your as short as me. I ended up going footless and nearly came off which would have been entertaining.

Put that at the top of the route and I wouldn't be arguing with 5c. (I'm 5'6).

In reply to Al Evans:

Its not pincushion, i didn't really find it reachy and i'm pretty short like. Its hard for E2 tho!

In reply to Mick Ward: yes, its good to have a list, its good to be able to tell when there is a genuine height issue from when youre just being a bit crap or not trying hard enough

In reply to Offwidth:

That's a good list, no disagreements apart from Eye of Faith, loved that route, had no issues reaching.

In reply to snoop6060:

I didn't think that move was hard at all for 5b and I'm 5'4.

In reply to Rachel Slater:

Yeah, me too.

In reply to Rachel Slater:

Although I did think it was the worst move of the route.

In reply to Rachel Slater:

Must be me then, I probably did it wrong as usual.