UKC

Hi Folks,
just watched a wild country video about clipping QDs (it was an American production.)
In the video it states that the two crabs making up the draw should have both gates facing the same direction because its the safest option.
Ive always thought they should be in the opposite direction to each other.
Any thoughts or reasons any one know?

In reply to Up High:

If we take the notion that we clip like in this picture:
http://www.mooneymountainguides.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/IMG_134...

With the rope biner having the gate on the right if the rope is going to the left, imagine a more extreme situation whereby that rope went at a bigger angle to the left, then went under tension, in that configuration the gate is a long way from the bolt, which is good. You don't want the bolt on the gate.

Seems modern thought is to have them facing the same way, that's what I do, partly because thats just how they come. There's a stack of people that oppose them, and they're all fine...


If you're using removable hangers and wiregates, you spend a bit more time thinking about this. (Some people go as far as flipping the top biner, http://www.pointperp.com/Images/IMG_5420_clipped_carrot_bolt.jpg )

In reply to Up High:

Yes, I must admit I watched that out of interest and thought pretty much the same. I've always set mine up with most gates in opposition as it were, though I have a few facing the same way (see below) However, the two things you are trying to do are 1) have the gates away from the rock, and 2) ensure the rope comes out of the front of the krab with the gate facing away from the direction you are climbing. The first to lessen risk of the gate being forced open, weakening the krab. The second to lessen the risk of it unclipping in the event of a fall. Maybe, the 'both gates in same orientation' method of setting up your draws increases the chance of getting 1) correct but it doesn't help with 2). As I say, whilst I tend to set mine up in opposition, I normally have a few the other way so I can use one of those if needed to get 2) right.

In reply to Skyfall: Yes mine are mostly opposing, I understand all the reasoning, ie gates away from rock etc just wondered why they stated it was safer, seems as you say you need a few of each.

In reply to Up High:

I suspect it may be that on a clip up with opposing gates, if you get 2) right, you run more of a risk of the bolt interfering with the gate of the top krab and it unclipping from the bolt end. I was thinking more of trad really.

In reply to Up High:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=563449

In reply to Up High:

As I say, for trad, I think opposite facing is best.

For sports, I reckon facing the same way is likely to be best.

In reply to Up High:
For sport and trad I've always had them facing the same way. It's certainly quicker and safer for sport. For trad I now use the same technique but in the past we just use slings and crabs and anything that protected you was good!

In reply to Up High: The back of the carabiner should always be against the rock as shown in video clip. This is only achievable for both if they are orientated the same way. As has been already been pointed out you also have to take into account which way you will be moving after the bolt to decide which way you will clip it. I can't think of any reason to have them in opposing orientations either with sport or trad climbing

In reply to Up High: It's unfortunate that some manufacturers started shipping QD's with gates opposing. I suspect it is this that started the trend.