In reply to galpinos:
It was sort of a joke (ie no one ever climbed as hard as he was supposed to have climbed in his time) but we live in times when snarls snipes and sarcasm are preferred to joyful laughter.
I've known a few star performers who were not the slightest bit interested in publicity. Yet, in the modern world we are said to need to know the absolute truth (with video proof) about everything and it all seems a bit sad to me as I'd hoped climbing would still have space for the lone master. Dan and his mates must have better things to be doing than wasting energy on publicising such doubts: sure an infamous very hard problem may be unclimbable but broken holds are hardly uncommon reasons for such as that.
JG never lusted for fame. As for proof of his ability to be up there near the best he has been seen by reliable folk doing plenty, including linking moves on BG and yet honestly admitting failure. As for being 'the best' we will never know but it doesn't look like he cares: he just seemed to have wanted to climb hard things. People say such behavior is very unhelpful to guidebook production. As someone who's done the guidebook editor job I'd wouldn't swap a JG for a handful of sponsored wads. What motivated me in such a role (in 5 or so years of nearly all my free-time) was being part of celebrating the beauty of climbing, and the odd mystery in this was part of the joy. If it all becomes mechanical recording, editing will become thankless train-spotter drudgery and climbing will be losing a key part of its soul.