UKC

Just been practising a bit of rope work for ML training. Dumb question but I'm happy equalising anchors in a rock climbing set up with karbs and all the other hard ware.

With a rope only.

Question? You have two bomb proof anchors say two spikes. Ok so over hand on a bite on one anchor work out how much length you need put a over hand on a bite on the second anchor or other methods bow line , figure 8 . Then equalise with again with a over hand knot? Is this secure? Anyone help me out with the correct method. Rope only.

Go easy on me.

Ben

In reply to Cadairmanuk:
Over hand for one loop then an alpine butterfly for the next. Easy to equalise. Dont know if this is right but it's the caving way....for some.
Or....thinking as I type, a double fig 8. Not as easy to equalise though.???
I await someone who actually knows ehat they're talking about.

In reply to Cadairmanuk:
Bunny Ears etc.
See section 4 of http://people.bath.ac.uk/dac33/high/16Knots2.htm

In reply to Cadairmanuk:

I don't think that this will come up to be honest, so I wouldn't worry about it as part of the ML. In fact isn't ropework out of the new syllabus altogether (apart from confidence roping)? Also, it's training, you're there to make mistakes and to learn so have fun

If you want to know for interest purposes then I'd probably go with Ben's suggestion above.

Also, there isn't usually a "right or wrong" way (well, apart from safe or unsafe) so being adaptable is key. Keep it as simple as possible though.

In reply to Martin1978:
Ropework isn't out, just lowering that's out.

However, you won't be needing to equalise anchors as an ML, part of the skill is selecting one mega bomber anchor.

In reply to Cadairmanuk:

Thanks for the replies and links. Not sure if it's in the course now I know two anchors aren't. It just got me thinking.

So basically my question boils down to is equalizing with a big over hand knot safe ? Is there a risk it could slip through?

Ben

In reply to jezb1:


(apart from confidence roping), what does that leave then?

In reply to Cadairmanuk:

This might be a good question to ask your instructors, as you could work through different options together. Better than a description via the web - and probably shows good initiative on your part too. Popular thing, showing initiative ...

Rug

In reply to Martin1978:

Protecting your client or clients down a short rocky step.

Ie. the same as before but in descent your client is scrambling down rather than being lowered and you are protecting against a slip.

In reply to Cadairmanuk:

In-in figure of 8?
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Equalise.htm

In reply to Martin1978:

Confidence roping (short roping w/o anchors - on the move)
Confidence roping (on rocky scrambly ground w/ anchors)

Also they took out the use of a rope for river crossings

In reply to obi-wan nick b:



Although a great knot, in that one can adjust it very, very, quickly, it has a failure mode. If the knot flips (maybe because it rubs against a rock) it turns into a slip-like knot. This means it extends badly and it the tail anchor fails it could be terminal

In reply to Cadairmanuk:

If you're all out of karbs, try proteins or fats. They'll fill you right up. Proteins are probably a better bet, as they're strong and won't be so likely to melt.

In reply to David Coley:

What a great find cheers

In reply to Chris Craggs:


What harness? (this is ML work...)

In reply to Cadairmanuk:

Cheers people for messages , links and advice.

Think I have it all nailed.

Ben