UKC

Having never bought the same model of rock shoe twice, I'm curious - How much variation is common between two pairs of shoes of the same make, model, and size? The reason I ask is that I'm considering committing the cardinal sin of going into a local shop to check out bouldering shoes (looking for a pair so that I can save my 5.10 Blancos for trad), but would like to save some money. If anyone has any specific knowledge regarding the higher end slip-ons (LS Solutions, Cobras), that would be particularly useful.

DISCLAIMER: For my own sake, I will say that I'm currently living in the south of Sweden, where the only shop that I know of at which you can try on shoes is Naturkompaniet, arguably analagous to a more expensive (obviously, it's Sweden) version of Cotswold. Thus, while doing this does, admittedly, waste the shop assistant's time, there are no small businesses that I could feasibly take my custom to. I'd even consider ordering from Needle Sports/V12/etc if their prices/international shipping are competitive with Nordic/German online shops. Whilst a discussion regarding the morality of trying on shoes in shops and then ordering them from elsewhere as a cost-saving measure is utterly fascinating, I hope to avoid this thread's descent into that.

Thanks all

In reply to DavidBoothroyd:

Different manufacturers have always had a varied approach to rock shoe
sizing (the reason there are so many second hand pairs for sale on this site). The answer is to go to a good retailer try on loads and if you feel you have had good service splash some cash cos they may not be there next time you need to avail their services. if you are hell bent price searching online at least give the retailer the opportunity to give a better price. That said living in Sweden I am guessing you are enjoying Swedish wages so maybe its time to "man up" and become part of the economy that's supporting you, i.e. buy locally, your dilemma.

In reply to nealh:
Reading the post fail.

Since I bought my first pair of Scarpa Vapour V's from a (small independent) shop, I've had a few more pairs off ebay and a pair from a FS post on here. The sizing is consistent enough that I've not really noticed any difference.

(Having decided that I really like them, whenever I see a nearly new second hand pair in my size for a bargain price I snap them up and stick them in the cupboard. Cheaper than resoling, and I'll be happy to have a few pairs in stock if they ever stop making them.)

In reply to DavidBoothroyd:

Not just size differences between manufacturers, but also big differences in shape (ie. narrow or wide) even between models of the same manufacturer.

In reply to deepsoup:

Cheers for that! I was thinking about the Scarpa Vapours, so I may look into them.
I also heard about an online shop based in Sweden which offers free returns on all items, and is commonly used by people who prefer not to pay Naturkompaniet prices; for anyone else who chances to find themselves in Sweden and unwilling to pay exorbitant Swedish retail prices (although still more than the UK), addnature.com.

In reply to DBoothroyd:

My experience with Sportiva is that they are generally consistent within the same model - unlike, for example, 5.10 who have a reputation for wildly random sizing.

In general one needs to go "smaller" on Sportiva sizes than one thinks. For Katanas & Miuras I go three euro sizes down from my normal street shoe size. For Cobras (are they still made - I thought they were superceded by Pythons?) more like three and a half sizes. Solutions don't fit my feet at all.

In reply to AlanLittle:

To clarify, I was asking about variation in size and fit for the same model in the same size - ie if I have two pairs of La Sportiva Miuras (for example) in UK size 9, will they be the same, or near enough the same, that if one pair fits perfectly, the other will too?
I guess this is probably the sort of thing that varies by both manufacturer and model, and is largely dependent on the manufacturing process, but a lot of people talk about sticking with the same shoe in the same size for years, so I'm curious as to whether this is restricted to specific models or if it's a fairly common thing across most/all shoes.

I'd say dead on with the 5.10/La Sportiva divide though - My Verdes and Blancos were a 9, while my Miuras were a 7.5, and I'd say all three have been of similar comfort once broken in!

In reply to DBoothroyd:

Miura Laces are the only shoe I've ever bought twice (except iirc original Fires) and the fit seems to be consistent. I hear the same from other Miura wearers too.