In reply to UKC News:
In the immediate short term there is no reason for any one to panic regarding these bolts as the ones in question are on the slabby routes and the climbers loading is in shear rather than the axial (direct pull out) that the hydrologic tester that I provided and trained Mark to use. 5kn is still like a half ton load so in shear failure will not occur - if any are more worn as a couple have been found to be, you would need to clip direct to one with a QD and hang high on them pulling them directly out of the hole!
Luckily gravity means that any fall, lowering off or even top roping will not produce an outward pull. Long term the issue could affect bolts on steeper routes if a bolt or bolts were constantly dogged on, fell on or loads and loads of top roping as on steeper routes the chance of some direct pull out is higher. Remember the bolts in question are on easier routes getting hundreds of ascents each month or even per week. Mark witnessed over 20 ascents of one route while he spent 3 hrs checking adjacent belays. Long term all expansion bolts on slate may develop problems so the need for all to recognise that replacements with resin bolts (glue-ins) is needed. The North Wales Bolt Fund will attempt to facilitate the training, equipment provision and all materials for volunteers doing this work. The NWBF has various financial supporters including BMC Beacon, Indi, ROCKFAX, v12/ groundup as well as generous individuals but this effort is massive and costs mega bucks aswell as both time and effort. The bolt fund desperately need more cash and active volunteers to get involved.. Support the Bolt fund - via paypal using northwalesboltfund@googlemail.com or find it via BMC, UKC, V12
Llanberis-based climber Mark Reeves has reported on his blog that many well used bolts on the Slate of North Wales have become dangerously loose.
