UKC

Can anyone clarify where the route goes at the top of Darius? There seems to be lots of confusion and buying the Rockfax guide has only added to my own. THe Rockfax topo line seems to show the true line going straight up through the bolt, and it has what looks like an alternative finish moving left at the bolt. The text route information has it the other way round.

Can anyone help? If I miraculously get on it and do it, I wont claim the onsight, honest!

Thanks

In reply to manwithacam:

I remember going quite a way left of the bolt into a little groove.

It's an unbelievably difficult route.

In reply to manwithacam:

Straight up is the slightly harder finish (although maybe less pumpy?) Left and up through a bulge to a groove is the usual way.

In reply to manwithacam:

Clip the bolt then move left and up - E2 5c, or go straight past the bolt - harder,


Chris

In reply to manwithacam:

You can go either left, direct or slightly right of the bolt. The left-hand option is the easiest, the direct the hardest. You'll be able to stand around below the moves without any problem and so will have plenty of chance to consider your options. One piece of advice: given the weather I'd strongly advise doing it very early in the day when it's in the shade. In the full sun the considerable amount of polish on the holds does decrease the enjoyment somewhat.

In reply to manwithacam:

none of the ways are that obvious when you are up there. I thought the line traversed L but when I was there I was wracked by doubts about where the line went. In the end I was totally boxed and rushed it a bit resulting in a massive whipper. Only later did I found out how old the bolt was, but don't let that put you off.

Yes, agree the E2 finishes up a groove to the L of the bolt. And that it's bloodly brilliant. Need to find the time for round 2. Enjoy.

In reply to Chris Craggs:



The direct version is probably 6a.

In reply to Al Evans:

Thanks all. Might head up to Kinder after all to escape the heat.

In reply to Al Evans:


I reckon there's a 6a move lower down too, I think it might have got harder after the fatal rockfall a few years back. The route felt a notch harder than Perseus to me, I suggest E3 6a.