UKC

Link to last week’s thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=608856

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Psyche video of the week:
vimeo.com/42893621
Particularly relevant to Tyler - lower limb injuries? No problem.

Last week’s posters:
Exile - Maybe the warmer temperatures this week were an excuse to get some wall time in?
The Ex-Engineer - Another cracking week in Scotland! Did you get your ‘one more grade V’?
mbh - Sounds like a good arrangement with running for a lift. Feeling prepared for your off-road event?
hms - Great trip, and quickly getting back into it.
Curious Yellow - How’s the hamstring?
Nick Russell - Progress on the winter under-performance.
flopsicle - Well done on the Strava segments! Don’t get too complacent though - I hear other people get competitive too!
biscuit - How was the promised fingerboard session?
Tyler - Sounds like a classic day winter climbing.
AJM - Sorry to hear about the pulley. Just stick to the rehab and a partial tear shouldn’t take too long to heal.
Mutl3y - Great progress on the weight. Did you try kettlebells?
mattrm - Where do you tend to go running? I expect there’s lots of nice routes in S Wales.
Joyce - Solid week there - you seem to be well in to the training mindset. Back to Huntsham?
Lancer - Those beastmaker routines are hard. Did you get out this week? Weather didn’t look too inspiring…
mrchewy - Good work on the pressups - don’t overdo it!
Dandan82 - Well done getting the Ninja Warrior audition - keep us posted!
Just Tintin - I got a bit of Flatirons beta for you, will post later.
Willi Crater - Some progress on the project. Keep it up!
Ally Smith - Feeling better rested this week?
0.5viking - Welcome to FitClub!
Kevster - Well done on NTBTA, one for my list, I think.
Creedence - How was the trip?
Ian Rock - So, did you get the overhang?
Humperdink - Nice work in the XC. Looked like a decent day from the video. I thought XC was all about the mud…

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks for posting Nick.

Odd week again.

Mon - Rest

Tue - Stanage in the arvo. Seconded some stuff, realised that I do have weight transference issues between handholds. Odd but good day.

Wed - Led some crack thing at Stanage but moved on to Rivelin due to the wind... bitingly baltic. Second on Croton oil, then had a go at Altar Crack. Ha. I can jam but I really can't layback. Flippin' 'eck, it's a sandbag even allowing for me having no technique or strength. Couldn't even manage it seconding.

Thu - Rest. Proper DOMS from the day before.

Fri - Laxitive day.

Sat - Colonoscopy. Could have been better.

Sun - Tried leading at the wall but just did some 5/5+/6a things as was knackered from going 45hrs without food on Fri and Sat. Still a bit woozy from the sedative too.

Really focused on being aware of centre of gravity and how it related to my hands before making a move. Seems I've been wasting a stack load of energy on most of the moves I do. Totally inefficient. Seconded Telli on Tuesday and had to purposefully engage brain with regard to balance before a hand movement on the lower pebbles
- worked tho, so progress. then today, as I wasn't feeling too well, spent a while on stuff I can cruise, seeing if I could make things easier, energy and effort wise. Yup. So much easier.

So really need to focus on this. It won't make me stronger but it will let me hang on to any power I do have for longer. Can't believe I've been climbing so dumbly for so long.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Cheers Nick.

Plus points for the week:
- finger feeling better
- reasonable dedication to rehab
- did some bits and bobs of other training and stretching
- brewed some beer
- did some wedding faff and holiday admin

Minus points for the week:
- I don't like not climbing
- I tweaked my shoulder the first day of seriously trying the alternative training exercises, which took a few days to get over
- that made me sad, because all I could do was crunches - i effing hate crunches

Hopefully better this week. Going to try some easy climbing tomorrow, fingers crossed.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Cheers for posting Nick and in a word - no! Rubbish week, didn't get to do much at all. Suffered from a re-occurrence of the hip flexor injury and then got man flu mid week.

M - Cycle commute. Walk.
T - Cycle commute. Tried a XC run but pulled up after 1k with a pain in the buttocks. Slowed down and finished my 5k, but should have called it a day earlier.
W - Cycle commute - in pain.
T - Cycle commute - in pain and with snots.
F - Sulked.
S - Sulked more.
S - Sulked harder!

Going camping / walking / bouldering in North Wales on Wednesday for a few days with daughter and dog. In hindsight it was probably best I got a rubbish week out of the way when I did.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick. Can't afford not to get straight back into it as I'm off to Costa Blanca in a couple of weeks. Bit hazy on what I did this week, was something like this:

M - cycle commute. S&C x 3 in evening
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, 2 hours of circuits. Upstairs 7a+ is a write-off, can't get beyond 4/5 (!). Downstairs one I can't do in one, but good trying to put the chunks together. Found a cunning knee-bar to sort one seq out.
W - cycle commute, fingerboard in evening. 2xeasy set to warm up, 2xhard set. Hanging at 135, 90 & 45.
T - cycle commute. Routes at UCR in evening. Re-tried a 7a I'd struggled on before. Felt mega-strong and just dropped the final couple of moves due to getting body-weight in wrong place. Tried another new 7a but couldn't suss clipping. Have a better idea what to do now.
F - travelling to parents, long walk in afternoon.
S - travelling home. S&C x 3 in evening
S - TCA trying comp problems and greens. Skin totally shredded & coming off in ribbons post-Chulilla.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick - I've got complacent pencilled in for after I've whooped the pink ear muff wearing whippet that holds the course record for my favourite hill! She looks slightly more than half my age but pink ear muff wearing and therefore it's do or die.

Mon - nowt
Tues - 1 mile hill run
Weds - 2 mile hills. 1.5 hrs lead climbing, I had a kindly belayer who doesn't climb any more which meant I climbed throughout.
Thurs - 2 miles hills. 45 mins Aqua aerobics. Winter bouldering league (Notts climbing) Got gold in vet female, sadly, also came last as only girly over 40! Although I was second including vet gents (fun league) so as good as could be expected as I've climbed terrible.
Fri - 4 miles very muddy hills. First crack at this month WBL (round 3) at Depot Notts and got told I'm heading vet female but this time with other competitors.
Sat - 1.7 miles but with a hill sprint thrown in where I totally murdered my last time - well happy! 2.5 hours ropes - belay breaks but pushing my grade and got a Hobbit 5c (uk tech) - which will sound pants unless someone climbs at Notts wall, their grades being somewhat singular, and the Hobbit even more singular! Really happy, huge support from the ground from all sorts of folk cheering us up - really good vibe which definitely made a difference. Climbers are ace! Brings my roped, at notts wall, 6a goal a step closer.
Sun - 2 hours skating with child maniac, my daughter is lovely but a speed freak!

I'm totally battered but happy! Good healthy knackered with nothing worrying in the pain department.

It's been pretty warm in the mountains this week so no winter action. A bit grey down South too, so only indoors this week.

M - Gym
T - 6km run
W - SW Unis bouldering comp. Didn't make the final but it was good fun. Set at an odd level - only 3 (out of 25) problems were really challenging. Still, it selected the right people for the final so no real moans there.
T - Bouldering at TCA. Training with the uni lot. I had them doing a few more technique drills, then a core set.
F - Rest
S - Climbing at Leeds wall, flashed a 7a. Pleased with that, good commitment and held it together when pumped at the top.
S - Walk round Yorkshire Dales, passed Goredale and Malham. Psyched to go climbing there later in the year!

Goals

Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid

2-finger (front and middle) repeaters on BM1000 small pockets
Managed 6x6/4 on middle 2. Front 2 still seems a way off

Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
Amanita, Think Pink, Central Wall, Peryl, Main Wall Elimate, GT Special, Low Profile

More winter grade VI
... because I'm never satisfied with just one. Hopefully I'll get out again this season!

In reply to flopsicle:

I regularly get beaten my people slightly less than half my age! But sometimes I beat them!! Keep at it!

In reply to Nick Russell:

Cheers nick. Yeah I tried kettlebells but this week was otherwise a write off.

Weight - MA last week 66.1. This week 66.1. No progress but it has not been static. Went up to a whopping 68 yesterday morning after an indulgent evening on the drink and lots of food. Going to have to double down this week to make amends.

Training notes:
M - kettlebells and skipping routine. Absolutely brilliant way to spend 1/2 an hour or so. Really good workout. After effects seemed to be tight backs of thighs. Strange. Not sure how climbing specific it is!
T - hour of power. Was v strong.
W - nowt
T - pints
F - bulking up
S - hungover
S - works. Only so-so session. Ticked some things. Mates took the piss saying I have to get out on rock with my strength. We will see.

Not going to make promises I'll not keep for next week so we will just have to see. #1 priority is weight though.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Running largely constrained by having to get to work, and not wanting my wife to have to drive too far.

M - 9.5 miles hilly route @7:51.
T- 5.5 miles to meeting at the Eden Project (I got a lift for part of the way), then 9.8 miles back (I didn't) Both at 8:40 ish with a heavy pack full of posh work clothes. ps, the Eden - what a ridiculously nice working environment. Their works canteen is all Habitat oak furniture like I have in my house, sofas everywhere like I would love in my house, a great shower room right at the front door like I don't have where I work... and how is this paid for, exactly....?
W - 9.1 miles to lift home @8:19. Don't why so slow . I have done this at 7:22!
T - Knackered, weak willed and just plain weak. Called for the lift to come to me after work. It did and I was very grateful.
F - 9.2 miles run to lift home, pouring rain the whole way, 7:55 ish.
S - 11.4 miles hilly, with a bit of flat for 7:25 ish miles. Meant to go more than 14 miles, but bottled the last three. Any run that passes my front door after more than 10 miles is likely to end right there, it seems.
S - 7.7 miles off-road on Bodmin Moor, scrambling, heather pulling, no paths, making it up as I went, great fun, first over Hawk's Tor then a few others.

62 ish miles, 5400 ft ascent - so not much ascent this week, but it was good to have an off-road adventure again and I put in a good few sub 7:30, even sub 7:00 miles between the hills.


20 mile off-road event in two weeks.

In reply to Nick Russell:
Evening Nick, I went one better and got two more grade Vs done. Cheers for asking!

M - Coire an t'Sneachda; The Message (IV)
T - Ben Nevis; Vanishing Gully (V) & Glover's Chimney (III)
W - Ben Nevis; Boomer's Requiem (V)
T - Boulder @ The Outdoor Show (15/25 comp problems, not amazing but the overnight coach journey might not have helped)
F - nil, still at The Outdoor Show but working.
S - day off & rest day.
S - Boulder @ The Outdoor Show (21/25 comp problems within three attempts. Much better.)

New profile pic from Wednesday to go up shortly...

Finally, would anyone from fitclub like any company bouldering (or leading) at either Oxford Brookes, Milton Keynes, Reading or any of the Bristol walls this week? Keen to visit a few more venues this week and it'd be great to put a few faces to the names online.

In reply to Nick Russell:
Hamstring much better thanks, took another week off running last week, might try a short gentle run tomorrow though.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Boulder. Circuits.
Wedns: Rest.
Thurs: Wall. Boulder, nothing ticked but totally hammered myself Circuits.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Wall. Short boulder. Circuits - starting to feel some improvement.
Sun: Cuttings. Bouldering, very close to Lost Decade (V6) but ran out of skin and energy. Glorious sunny day.

Sat on the sofa feeling pretty wipdd out now....

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:




Actually at Big Rock, MK from about 10.30 in the morning if you wanna say hello chap - heading down there with a friend.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks for doing the stats. I wish I could say I did lots of running in nice places, but the reality is that I run round the local fields, same loop, same place. Dull eh?

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 7lbs (2lbs gain)

M - decent 20 mins core workout
T - 100 dish tucks
W - 4k run
T - 100 dish tucks
F - 100 dish tucks
S - 4k run and core (again some DIY)
S - 100 dish tucks (after a day's DIYing)

Month average - 86%
Year Average - 80%

While it's been a poor week from a weight point of view, it's been busy at work. I'm also very happy to have done something every day. While 100 dish tucks a day isn't much when you get down to it, it's a bit of effort day in day out, so I'm actually quite happy about that. I wish I'd got a decent wedge of DIY done. I think I've just managed to finish one drawer and fit another drawer. Having said that stripping 3ft of 2" thick oak into 3/4" strips takes a while with a handsaw. Then each rail needs to be fitted to each draw, which takes a lot of planing, offering it up, planing, sanding and general fettling, before you can get it ready to put in the carcass. I'm really hoping to get a few decent sessions in next week, before I head off to the Lakes for a week at the end of Feb. Also I'm dragging the average up with this streak. Hopefully the lots of sessions will turn into lots of quality sessions soon enough.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick. The motivation of FC already worked, since I finally ticked an indoor 6C, which took me quite long since my first 6B/6B+ indoor boulder.

STG (2weeks): Boulder 6C indoor -> ticked 2 of them, new goal: redpoint the 7- I worked on
Lead more -> maybe it should be called: be more confident leading and that might take more than 2 weeks
MTG (summer): climb more outside
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade)
weight: 68/70 kg
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7- or 7 outside
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)

Weight: 74,3 kg.
M: bouldering, 2x 6C, 6B+ flash and a 6B on a wall that has rumours for being stiff graded
T: running 20 minutes at 9,5 km/h with 3 degree incline.
W: bouldering at a different wall, couldn’t get used to the style, but nice and technical climbing
T: roped climbing, the ropes needed replacement, so I didn’t feel comfortable on lead (although I did lead) some work on a boulder project and got a hold further then usually
F: antagonist training (shoulder and triceps)
S: outside bouldering topped the 6B I didn’t manage last week, indoor good progress on a boulder and worked a 7- for about ¾ of wall height, felt confident leading
S: skiing, the plan was to go touring, but ended up riding the lifts, which I didn’t mind on the first ski day of the year

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick, you'd crush NTBTA. Trouble is, now I've done it, there is the direct to do.

Slack week for me again.
Skin was thin thin thin from the bouldering last weekend. Even on tuesday, the newer holds just hurt to pull on. On the plus side I was insufferable telling everyone how nice it was to go outside.
Tuesday - led a few routes, nothing too hard. Failed the 7b as kept getting the fingers in the wrong place on the hold.
Busy with work and play, eaten out lots this week. Though one was a Dolomites planning meal. Proper excitement.

Future this week: Climb twice would be good, maybe outside at the weekend for a day. Eat less.

Thanks all! Cheers, Kev.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick- nope, no outdoors at all this week- in fact work was so busy, saw very little daylight at all. It was, in essence, a week of bouldering indoors, at night...

Mon- drive in to work- busy
Tues- big meetings at work. Bouldering late evening- 10 routes- V1 to V3. Then 4 circuits of lower angled V2 circuit. Got half way around 45 degree V2 circuit before my arms gave way.
Wed- nothing as worked late. 80 press ups.
Thurs- 12 mile cycle commute. Boulder at the Works- 20 pink and green routes. Then tried harder "Pinkle" routes- managed 10, which is great, as technique and strength is getting better.
Fri- 12 mile cycle commute
Sat- drove to South West
Sun- Frenchies- 1 set of 4, 2 sets of 3.1. 100 press ups, 30 chest dips, then dreaded Beastmaker 6a routine (the Powerbar and fingerboard are also on holiday...

Down in North Cornwall this week, so planing a few visits to Godrevy and Carn Brea, for a bit of that unfamiliar "rock" stuff.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Cheers Nick - looking forward to the Flatirons beta - much appreciated.
Bad start to the week in pre-holiday lots of work panic mode, and still sleeping badly. Getting better now I'm on holiday with better sleep but always try to go off too hard when should be adjusting to life at 2926m above sea level...!

M - work
T - work
W - coaching then hang board.
T - fly to Denver 10 hours getting in at 11pm UK time, before 2 hours of immigration and driving 2.5 hours to Breck. Very tired!
F - First day skiing20,298 vertical feet. Climbing wall session featuring orientation then lead/boulder mix. Not good grade-wise but hopefully as altitude adjustment will get better!
S - Skiing 23,391 vertical feet
S - Some great bowl skiing, 22,762 vertical feet. 'Restorative' yoga. It's snowing. LOTS.

Sorry missed last week

Wed- easy hilly trail run 4.7 miles
Fri - fell run steady 1:51
Sat - LSR moel siabod in the snow 3:25
Sun - bouldering in the winter sunshine @ rac

This week, not much!
Sat - moel y ci race, felt proper out of shape
Sun - climbing @ Indy easy leading

In reply to Nick Russell:


Thanks Nick, auditioin is this coming Sunday, fingers crossed!

Not a brilliant week this week, a bit of false alarm lurgy and an elbow niggle put a bit of a dampener on proceedings.

M: Bouldering: Max Moves; Supposed to be working up to V8, left elbow hurting so got to V5 and went for an early bath
T: Thought I was coming down with lurgy, skipped Strength and Conditioning, did go for a run though as last minute cardio prep for Ninja warrior, 1 mile in 8 minutes nearly killed me, i'm not a runner!
W: Bouldering: Link ups: V4-V2-V4-V1-V5, V6-V2-V4, V5-V1-V4-V2-V4-V2-V4, V5-V2-V6, V4-V3-V4-V3-V3-V3
T: Run; intervals based on some advice, approx 250m then 10 chin ups and rest for remainder of 1 min, repeat x5 = sweaty mess.
F: Fingerboard, campus offsets and touches
S: Routes (indoor) 4x4's 6b, 6c, 6c+ sacked it off due to elbow
S: Rest

Despite almost completely solving the elbow overuse issue with generous use of the flexbar, (which as an aside, is strange as according to Dave Mcleods new book the pain I get is most likely brachialis related and yet an exercise specifically for golfers/tennis elbow is helping it) it seems I have at least one other thing wrong with my elbows.

Last Sunday I did S&C as usual, while doing the tricep extensions I felt a single small tweak in the left elbow on one rep as I extended to a straight arm. That tweak makes the elbow ache a little at rest and progressively more under any load and only seems to be fixed by a couple of days of complete rest. I've felt it before, I got it doing face down YTI's on gym rings and it messed up my Font trip last Easter.
The tweak seems to happen randomly, isn't linked to max effort, I can only guess its down to a lack of concentration and some kind of 'snap' into a straight extension too fast. I've got an appointment with Nina next week to try and nail it down, in the meantime it's really hampered my week.

Monday was a washout, almost immediate elbow pain, tried a super long warm up to push through it but no joy.
Running Tuesday was almost comical, I have absolutely zero aerobic ability, pumping heart and burning lungs are such an alien feeling to me! It may not be necessary to do any running for the audition but it seems prudent to be at least vaguely prepared. Intervals on Thursday were more encouraging, the running portion of the interval was much harder than the chin-up portion, it seems I can still crank them out when i'm gasping for air like a landed fish.

Wednesday was a better session from an elbow point of view, but in terms of following the plan, not even close! I managed 5 of 6 link ups, almost all of them I dropped some or all of the suggested grades down and spent a lot of time on the later ones falling off. I was supposed to then rest and repeat twice more! Unbelieveably hard, I had to stop due to time constraints but I can't imagine I would have managed much more anyway, i've no idea how I will ever complete that session...
Friday was first fingerboard and campus session for a while, very encouraging from a finger point of view, even managed some front 2 and middle two hangs. Less encouraging for my elbow, I think the deep locks on the offset pullups irritated the left elbow again. To be fair I had temporarily rigged up my campus board by hanging it from my gym ring hooks and tying it to various bits of heavy furniture so it was swinging about a bit, not ideal! I'm thinking of bolting it to the outside of the house temporarily until I build my boulder shed.
Saturday was attack of the elbow, sacked off the 4x4's and sulked.

So now it's Monday and I can still feel the elbow, very annoying. I absolutely must let it heal this week so i'm not carrying it into the audition on Sunday, I can't see there being any deep-lock stuff in the audition but I need to give myself the best chance. This week will be spent taking it steady, listening to my body, more intervals for the aerobic side of things and trying not to sulk.
The plus side of a less intense week is that my finger is feeling really good, always a silver lining I suppose...

In reply to Just Tintin:

From my friend Jason, who climbed 3rd Flatiron with his brother last summer:
"Basically, bring a rope and plan to simulclimb. Super fun! A set of nuts and 5 cams would be reasonable. Soloing wouldn't be completely out of the question... The beginning of the 3rd flatiron is hard and intimidating (still 5.6) but the rest is pretty chill. Unknown about the weather, it seems like a total crap shoot"

Not much, but I hope that's of some use to you!

In reply to Nick Russell:

Skin issues just about solved by avoiding resin for a few days, and then swinging axes at the weekend. Got a brilliant pair of ticks on the Ben, but the combined 700m of front pointing absolutely ruined my sport climbers legs!

BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!

LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)

MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Stay in gainful employment – redundancy looking less likely, but still not certain
- Fisheye and/or Humildes pas Casa, Oliana; End of Feb.
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – sore shoulders)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Fail to cut the lard; 76.5 kg and 6.7% BF

STG (next week)
- Taper for Oliana
- Stretching and foam roller on battered legs
- Shift some lard – salad lunches here we come
- Core

Last week:

M - Rest. 380 core movements & 40 press-ups.
T - Fingerboard repeaters (3x 35 sloper, 3x crimp, 3x wooden balls) and 48 pull-ups.
W - 5x doubles at AWS, all 7b-c, though I failed on a couple of unknown routes, OS’ing the 7c was good.
T - Nowt – sports massage to sort out back/shoulders.
F - Nowt – driving north.
S - 4am start; 6:30am first team at base of Point Five Gully! Brilliant fun route; hooked and stepped out for most of the way. Down #3 Gully and back up Green Gully before back down #3 and stumble back down the Allt a’mhuillin. Multiple cramps overnight in my pitiful sport climbers legs!
S - Bambi leg walking up to Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mòr. Bailed at the base and left 2 partners to it. Multiple coffees in Glencoe visitor centre to even start to feel vaguely normal. Entertaining DOMS all day and continuing this morning.

In reply to Dandan:



I'm not the only person on here who's got a copy. I'd say it's well worth buying if anyone is looking at getting a copy.

In reply to mattrm:

I'd recommend it too, it seems to be a good collection of all the latest knowledge and how it applies specifically to climbing, collected in one place.
Plenty of info in there that I wish I had known 10 years ago too (not that i'd have listened).

Was yours hand signed as well? I thought that was a nice touch.

In reply to Dandan:




Yes, mine is signed as well. I normally buy his books and DVDs straight from him as I guess he gets more money that way. He normally signs everything of his that he sends out, certainly if you ask for it to be signed he will do that.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Ta muchly Nick, enjoying the general positive atmosphere on the ol' FC - helping keep the psyche on

Will do last week next week as I'm away on a snowboarding (sliding down Austrian mountains on my conk) holiday this week and my notes are at home.

Love from,
Joyce,
Xxxx

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks for doing fit club Nick. No wall as man flue stopped play

Aims:

Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7 - sort of, seconded VII 7 ok

Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar

Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

Summer -get on some slate

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: Rest
T: 30min road run (winter endurance) felt crap
W: Ill
T: Ill
F: Ill
S: Ill
S: 2.5hrs family MTB ride - felt ok

Poor week - didn't go to Scotland fro weekend as felt crap. Better now so will hopefully head north when the weather calms down

In reply to Nick Russell:
Hey Nick - decided to bail for a while but wanted to say thanks for taking fit club the last few weeks, you're doing a grand job. Whilst I'm not working, I really need to sort the medial ligament before it tears again and messes up the trip the trip to Spain later this year. My climbing's going backwards, cardio is a no no in general and I'm not feeling psyched to report icing /heat contrasts five times a day or stretching or yoga. Fit club should be about group psyche rubbing off in a good way, reports of great days out, personal high points in training and at the moment, making note of the week feels pretty demoralising. I've got some coaching with Mr Kettle next week, I'll still be getting outside and also taking refuge on the campus rails but an 'unfit for purpose club' may be better suited. I should start one.

Hope everyone's training goes well and the send train arrives in the station shortly! Jimmy's seems to have arrived already...

In reply to mrchewy:


Heh, I've got some coaching with John Kettle next week as well. Hope you're well soon. I don't think there's any harm on staying on fit club even if you're not 100%, it's about supporting people through the lows as well as the highs.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Cheers Nick, I love that video though I expect my elbows would be in a worse state than my ankle if I did all that! I need to start sorting out some goals so I'll start with:

1. Give up cake and biscuits for lent, currently over 11 stone
2. Mary Townley Loop - mentioned this in the pub the other night and and I got about three people saying they'd like to do it with me which is great but means I'm now committed! Poss April for this.
3. The Ashes and/or Cave Route Left in first half of year.

M: Exercise bike
T: Stockport, attempted doubles - failure
W: Deadhangs, decided for specifity I should do three finger hangs not four. Astonished how much difference this makes, I can't even do half crimped hangs using three - worrying, I knew I was weak but not realised I was this weak. Need to concentrate on three finger hangs (mainly foot on?) from now on despite how demoralising it is.
T: Exercise bike
F: Malham, nearly fell off top roping the warm ups (I think the cold was freezing my brain) then persuaded to get on Zoolook, in three goes I did not do a single one of the hard moves (and there are a lot of them!).
S: Exercise bike, increased the level to 13 for the last half hour and coped.
S: Monster session at Stockport, did better on my doubles (in that I managed to complete most of the singles!)

In reply to mrchewy:
Hope things fix themselves, and let us know what the coaching verdict is (applies to mattrm too!)

Oh, and find something else you can do. Psychological side of injury can be shit, my last week kind of was once I tweaked my shoulder as well as the pulley. But if it's your leg that's the issue (?) get working on your fingers, or some "core" (whatever that is), or some pullups, or something.

In reply to mattrm:

I take it you're going up to the Lakes then Matt? I have two afternoons sessions with him one on one at the Kendal wall.

In reply to AJM:

I'm on it Andy - it'll be campus rails, aerocap and general conditioning for a while. Hope the tweaks sort quickly.

*core work for me at the moment is freeing up my hamstrings, everyone forgets that the back enchainment of muscles is core too.

In reply to Tyler:

Hi Tyler - can you include me for Mary Townley loop planning - need to get some biking fitness before doing the Sportive with AJM et al?

Other comments:
- I'm crap on finger hangs too - i get a surprising amount of strength out of my pinky
- Zoolook is desperate without beta - my first time up sounds about as productive as yours! Did anyone (The Fox?) tell you about the weird step-through beta for the middle crux?

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks Nick.

Last week:
So close, yet so far. A good week, but a tad disappointed. A lack of experience in climbing trip tactics probably cost me in the end. The major one being that I didn’t have enough quickdraws to leave them in the routes I wanted to RP, and have enough left for my girlfriend to lead stuff too. Whoops. Also, never having been to the area before, we wanted to explore around a bit, so stayed in Abdet as it seemed more central, but this was generally a little too far from everywhere. An hour or so to drive to the crags, and it's not exactly easy brain off driving!

M - Sella - Raining in the morning, so headed up to Sella at midday when it cleared up. A few warm up routes as it’s the first time on rock for a while! Then put a rope up on ‘La Cosa - 7a’ and cruised it first go on TR. So that was a nice confidence booster, as though it’s soft, it went without any real effort at all. Decided not to risk blowing my arms in one day, and it wasn’t a great route so didn’t go for the redpoint.
T - Alcalali - Really nice little crag this one, again a couple of warm up routes, then put a rope up on ‘Akram the Terrible - 7a’. I didn’t get it first go as I missed the right hand pinch at the crux, found that, then got it clean all the way through whilst putting the draws in. I was intending to go for the lead, but Sarah was getting cold belaying, and I liked the crag, so decided to go for it when we came back later in the week.
W - Iffy forecast, so opted for the rest day today.
T - Pinos - Another iffy forecast, so went for the option of still being able to climb in the wet. Some warm up routes, including a 6b+ onsight. Then started to work ‘The Mediator - 7a’ which boiled down to a thin and awkward crux move right with blind footholds. The rock here was shredding my skin, so decided just to go for the lead before it was too late. Got so close to holding it on the first attempt, but just slipped off. Again, it wasn’t a great route and I really wanted to get ‘Akram’ the next day, so decided to save my skin for that.
F - Alcalali - A few warm up routes, then went bolt to bolt on ‘Akram’ putting the draws in. Time for the lead, cruised through to the crux, got to the move above the bolt, then my head decided that ‘I can’t do this’ and that was it. I tried again a couple more times, but I’d knocked my confidence and the broccoli covered rock was getting painful to grab.
S - Bellus - I wanted to try the 7a on the steep slab, to mix things up a bit from the steep and juggy, but it was very busy. Lacking any real skin and energy, we just relaxed a bit and enjoyed the area. Tried a 7a+ for curiosity reasons, and it wasn’t too bad. Hard to tell when it hurt to pull!
S - Flight home.

Just going to relax a bit this week, and reassess my goals.

In reply to AJM:

Solutions to your current woes;
a) Brew some more beer - your latest recipe with breakfast cereal sounds plain weird!
b) Sort out your dismal hip flexibility (the squat videos linked in the UKB thread about climbing specific flexibility felt really quite difficult to me!)
c) Get out on the bike more - you and Nick can spank me on the Dorset hills come May
d) Go to the gym and learn to deadlift!

In reply to Creedence:

Bad luck with your redpoint projects - it's often a gamble trying to push your grade on trips away from home. Take confidence fro the 7a+; sounds like you could achieve this level without much work on a "home" project?

Tactics wise, you don't sound a million miles off

+ve's
+ You took a rest day at the right time
+ You sacked off routes that didn't inspire you e.g. La Cosa

-ve's
- Sounds like you trashed you skin trying things in sub-optimal conditions
- Keep your belayer warm - if they're happy and warm they'll be attentive (good for your confidence) and give off good positive vibes (good for your motivation) - beg/borrow/steal/buy them a bigger downie/wrap them in double downie too, feed them chocolate at regular intervals and bring a thermos to the crag

In reply to Ally Smith:

- Puffed wheat is technically torrified wheat, which is one of the potential ingredients in brewing wheat beer. The honey and simple sugar coating will add punch and perhaps some.flavour but it's not quite as odd as it sounds.
- I think I'm worst with hamstrings etc (toe touching etc), and I am doing a bit of stretching to work that already.
- Have plans to, although if I can I'd like to go tradding this weekend really.
- Yes not a bad idea although I think I'd need to get someone to show me proper form.

It's fine though now, I'm allowed to climb again, I've got some stuff to be getting.on.with and im psyched to progress my assisted one arm hangs 3-finger dragging the little rails on the bm2k. It was just a bit shit last week when I couldn't climb and I'd tweaked my shoulder too.

In reply to Ally Smith:



Way tougher than they look, I was quite surprised. I'm struggling with the left knee/leg at the moment but still... felt far more effective than lying on my back doing that star yoga move thingymajig.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally.
One thing I'll remember for next time is to tape fingers when working the route if the rock is sharp! Save skin for when it counts.

In reply to Ally Smith:


Now I'm really worried, it'd be good to have you along. If you want to try it before then I can offer some on route support or do the last leg with you (includes what seems like mile sof big cobbles up a gentle hill - ouch) when I may not slow you down too much.

So, it would appear, do I. The problem with this is that my dupuytren’s means I very rarely get to use it, especially when tired and slapping for holds.

Sadly this is far from the first time I've been on the route! entering and exiting the hanging groove is weird but the move over the overlap is burly and and I've never found a way to do the top move left. I think GBH might suit me better but in all honestly I'm kidding myself to think I can do either hence my more limited goals!

In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks for doing this again this week Nick.

M - Resting.
T - Still resting..
W - Indoor bouldering.
T - Finger board session. 10 sets of repeaters of various sorts. 40 mins run.
F - Weights, push-ups, core exercises.
S - Resting.
S - Outdoor bouldering, mostly focusing on V5-ish roof-ish problem. 1.5 hours hilly walking. Trying not to get knocked over by my dog.

Avg calories per day 1850 - rubbish!
Weight at sow 11st 3, at eow 11st 3.

Stg (end Feb) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end Apr) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 7. Succeed on V5 bouldering project.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)

In reply to mrchewy:


Yup, I'm off up there for the week, next week. Just the normal holiday stuff for me and the wife. But I've been meaning to get a training session in with someone, so I thought while I'm up there, I'd give John a try. The wife and I visit the Lakes enough, that it's not that bad having a coach up there. I'm just doing one session on Thursday morning at Kendal wall as well.

In reply to Creedence:


No need for that, just don't waste skin by trying things in bad conditions; direct sun, still, humid, etc

In reply to mattrm:

I think I'm Tue and Wed afternoon, six hours in total. It's a bit of a trek for me and it works out costly if you include lost wages but I'd think nothing of spending £500 on a crash helmet or a leather if I was still blasting around on motorbikes - it's an investment in my hobby, a bit like physio sessions but hopefully more fun and at least as beneficial. The Lakes hasn't been kind in general weatherwise, so it's not somewhere I'd bother to head to usually. If I can get the knee moving somewhat before the sessions with John, I may stay up there a couple of days extra if the weather plays ball, otherwise I'll be straight back home or to Wales.

Enjoy the hols - it'll be good to see what you think after and compare notes.

In reply to mrchewy:

That sounds like a plan. It's quite decent for me, John has a good reputation and I'm in the Lakes that week anyway, so a couple of hours is ok. Hope it goes well for you also.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Been lazy and haven't posted in weeks mainly due to not actually doing much in the week just the odd beastmaker session but have been going out one day on the weekends. Been really busy with work/family/house etc.

Had a couple of good weekend bouldering days; one at Tanygrisiau and one at Porth Nefoedd. Ticked a couple of classic 7A's I was psyched about.

Here's a couple of videos I made:

Tanygrisiau - vimeo.com/118547992
Porth Nefoedd - vimeo.com/119072113

So, last week was still pretty uneventful but I'm back on the training this week and feeling better for it.

Just one session last week at Porth Ysgo on Saturday.

Ticked some classics: Ugly Women (6A+/B), Made In Heaven (6B+) and Trons Brown (6B+).

Also tried Fast Cars (6C+), Popcorn Party (7A) and Thagomizer (7A+).

Got nowhere on Fast Cars, can do all of Popcorn Party apart from the move taking the right hand out of the letter box hold at the start (Felt like an issue with not being able to put weight through feet). Only had a couple of goes on Thagomizer and was surprisingly OK on it. It's an upside down fridge hugging prow, a mini Lou Ferrino.

This week I've made the decision to focus on posterior chain exercises going forward to asses my possibly weak lower back/glutes. I have a major problem putting weight through the feet and keeping my hips in on steep stuff.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Don't worry Nick - it was still muddy in places and this Saturday's race will be a mud bath!

Thought I'd posted but somehow had forgotten (better late than not at all).

M: am - run to work 4.5M 37:04, pm - run home 8/9M in 58:20
Tu: am - run to work 15mins 1/2M, lunchtime - fartlek 30mins of 2min (target pace 4:50/mile), 1min (target pace 5:40/mile). Went out and back and managed approx. 5.7M for the 30mins, an average pace of 5:17miling so not quite the target but that was ambitious anyway (I blame coach). pm - run home 4.5M in 32:12
W: am - run to work 4.5M in 32:33, pm - run home 9/10M in 64:37 - tired
Th: am - run to work 4.5M in 32:47, pm - run home 4.5M in 32:02
F: Rest - phew!
Sa: am - session on grass/mud. 3 x (60 secs hard, 60 secs jog, 30 secs hard, 60 secs jog, 8mins, 60secs jog, 30 secs sprint) with 4mins jog between the sets. This to simulate a fast start then settle into pace with a bit of lactic in the legs to clear and then fast finish at the end - it was tough! 11/12M total, pm - 4M v easy in 32:54
Su: only 12M in 1:31:05 as didn't want to do too much ahead of the National XC which was good because I was shattered from the session.

Total ~80M, another good week, now need to ease down to be ready for Saturday.

In reply to Luke Owens:

You forgot the most important update - tell us about the kittens!

In reply to Nick Russell:

Like Luke, I've been really lazy with replying recently. Was really busy at work last week, and had a weekend in North Wales straight into font this week. Got home at 2:30am this morning and am now sat in work pretty zonked out.

M-wall session with repeaters.
T-nothing as preparing work stuff for Wednesday.
W-session down the wall up to v8 with decent core set afterwards.
T-went for a meal and then managed a 45minute fingerboard session.
F- nothing
S- ended up playing on cromlech Boulder. Didn't intend to climb much but after repeating everything up to v7 I started working the trav. Did the finish to the full roadside (v9) and what I think was the (v12? Finish). Didn't want to go too hard as I was heading to font on Sunday night.
S- massively hungover, but had sensed a quick tick of roadside full. Unfortunately I fell off the very end (last move of the edge) 3 times. The last time I landed arse first onto the rocks on the right. Just what I needed before the long drive! Doh. Came to my senses that I was going to font (with convincing from climbing partners) and left it for the future.


Just had a wicked 4 day trip to font( 1 forced rest day -rain) - got the local comp this evening. I've got two splits - hopefully this won't affect me too much.

Weather looks crap this weekend

In reply to Ally Smith:

And indeed I was that warm & happy belayer in the 2 downies, yelling encouraging twaddle. But no thermos

when are you off to Spain?

In reply to mattrm and Mr Chewy:

I can't praise John enough. He's one of the few coaches out there who actually knows how to coach. The amount of time and effort he's put into becoming a coach is plain to see in his delivery and results.

He's not a celebrity climber, but you don't need one of those, you need someone who has the tools to analyse you in a subjective manner, communicate effectively and send you off with the info that will improve you.

I've been coached in different sports by a few different people ( including climbing ) and done plenty of MLTE and BMC training,assessments and CPD. He's the best i've come across by a long way in climbing, both as a coach and a teacher.

In reply to Tyler:

When i've been keen for fingerboarding i've quickly got strong fingers.

A couple of weeks ago i got on the BM for the first time in a long while. The results were abysmal. I used to be able to middle two the lower pockets with added weights for multiple sets for example. I couldn't even complete a set of 4 finger, chisel grip, on the main jugs.

However i feel i'm climbing well - go figure. When i get my mojo back i'm sure it'll see some big gains. The same will happen for you too, i'm sure.

I also rarely use my little fingers as they're much shorter than the rest but am consciously trying to make myself use them atm. It requires different wrist positioning etc. but doesn't feel too weird. Are yours just too curly to bother with now ?

In reply to Nick Russell:

Cheers Nick.

A crap last week and this one has been the same too.

No fingerboard. I just can't get the motivation to get on it after work.

I haven't climbed as such for a couple of weeks now, despite spending 50-70 hrs a week in a climbing wall.

Not even really done any running which is very bad.

Last week i did have two courses that involved getting my shoes on at least and lots of technique stuff. Input from Ste Mc, Katherine Schirmacher (sp?), Lu Whittaker, John Kettle and a couple of others can't be harmful.

I did do a foot on campus session as a bit of a fitness benchmark. Crap was the result. Both in terms of length of time i could stay on and recovery.

So i have weak fingers and little fitness - BUT i'm still climbing OK. Or at least i was the other week.

I'll continue to work on my technique and falling progression in the 1 or 2 sessions i hope to fit in next week. I may try and squeeze in 1 or 2 quick half hr foot on campus sessions after work. I can't muster up the enthusiasm for an intense fingerboard session after work.

My diet in the last couple of weeks has been rubbish too with lots of missed meals, coffee and some sugary treats creeping in when i've been crashing. That's all been work related.

So my goals for next week are:

1 leading session with PPG on Thursday - it'll be a benchmark session as new routes are up. 7a o/s is the goal.
2 x campus sessions
Boulder session ?

In reply to biscuit:

It was your comments previously that made me think that John might be best for me and after having a chat with him for half an hour or so on the phone, I'm pretty optimistic. I've always felt that the best teachers make the best teachers, not the best performers make the best teachers - Alex Ferguson at Manchester Utd being a case in point.
My ancap on the campus rails is pretty damn good, I can even pop out a mono pullup or two but I climb like crap - seems you have it the right way round, hopefully Mr Kettle can point me towards where he pointed you.

In reply to Nick Russell:
I nearly forgot the most important news. We got a puppy😄
Milo is a 9 week old Weimaraner with big floppy ears, a snuffly wet nose, massive paws, an impressive farting capacity and an inability to sleep for more than an hour. After a week of severe sleep deprivation I think we've finally cracked it and we don't feel like zombies.

In reply to biscuit:

Me too. Well, I say rarely - I notice mostly on the fingerboard and campus board, but also sometimes on routes. It just feels like the 3 finger grip is stronger than the 4 on a lot of holds. I put it down to having to twist my wrist into a less strong position.

In reply to mrchewy:
It would be a shame to see you go. As others have said, riding other people's highs is one aspect of FC, but moral support during the lows is also important.

You don't have to write an essay about it. Just a note to say you're still on the rehab keeps some kind of continuity. I think that's important. Rehab is boring and if you know you're accountable to the rest of us, it can motivate you a bit!

Whatever you decide, come back any time.